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RyGuy is looking for a slave cylinder for his 70 Goose....

RG, your options are one of the following
1) Rebuild your original aluminum version, which is unique to the GOose and a couple of Fiats (2300 & 1500 Osca Fiat #4039673) and perhaps a Maserati or two. Kits for an early Fiat X1/9 will perhaps fit your piston....depending on which version of piston (at least three versions) you have. All are a 3/4" bore Girling part.
If your bore is bad, you can have it sleeved with brass/bronze for a reasonable amount of $$.
Kits are listed under Beck-Arnley #071-5789 Wagner F103530 But these are drying up if not gone off most autopart shelves....and again, your piston may not fit the kit....depending on what you have.....

You can also buy the cast iron X1/9 version (see #3 below) and gut it for the all the parts. Beck-Arnley and Centric list them on eBay for $20-30, use the innards to keep the proper aluminum version on your car original!

2) You can try and find a cast iron version of the original, still available from Fiat's Plus in Santa Cruz CA. Chris should have what you need. He may have them under the Fiat #4039673 for the 2300 and 1500 Osca.....

3) You can fit a late model X1/9 cast iron version to your car, but you must space it out about 4mm and use slightly longer bolts. The mounting bosses are not centered (that would have made it SOOO easy if they had done that....) This cylinder is an exact mirror image of the original, so you need to be aware of this bit!!!

All depends on what you want to do!
The attached picture is of an X1/9 "wrong one" cylinder on a bellhousing! Note the slight space between the cylinder bosses and the bellhousing. If you cranked it tight, you may risk pinching the bore and locking the piston, or pulling the threads out of the expensive aluminum bellhousing! Ouch!
Steve

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Steve,
Thank you so much for all the great information! I am just reading this post today but yesterday I ordered a Ferrari 500259 slave cylinder after reading 69Goose's post about his findings with that cylinder. I of course would love to keep it original if possible but I am not sure if what I have is the original cylinder or not. And I tried to post a picture but it said it was too large so I will have to figure out how to make it smaller or email it out. I hope the 500259 will at least get the car moving again until I can rebuild the original slave cylinder, if that is in fact what I have. Steve, do you know of a rigging procedure for this slave cylinder? As by the time I got to working on the car it had already been removed. Thank you again for the post. RyGuy.
RyGuy,

For big pic's.....with Winders, you can right click on the picture and see if there is an option to "resize pictures" already. If so, you can select "medium size" and either make a new copy (smaller) and leave the original alone...or don't make a copy and do resize the original!

If you do not have the resizer.....go see Bill Gates.....! Microsoft.com will have an "add-on" that you can download.

If you have a Mac......see Google.....

In my picture of the original above, I didn't post the other side....but on some units (see ebay!) you will see a tab for a spring connection. This was removed from my unit.....at some point in time......

OTHERWISE....it looks like the Ferarri unit should do the trick! Probably a steel unit, but that is fine. You may still need to remove that tab..... depends on what gets in the way!

Rigging???? Can ya be more specific?

WHat you do want to look for is the rod that fits to the piston and the throw out arm on the ZF. You will need to get the ball end and the lock nuts...and xfer them over to the new unit..... Rod may or may not need to be shortened.....

Adjustment is easy. Adjust so there is about 1/16-1/8" of free play between piston at rest, and making the throw out bearing contact the fingers on the pressure plate.

You can check this by using a large pliers or such to move the arm.....adjust free play accordingly using lock nuts on ball pivot.

I hope this is more clear!?

Steve
RG
You mentioned bleeding.

I would like to recommend that you look for Castrol LMA (low moisture absorbing) brake fluid.

Gallon jug. Quarts if that is all that is available.

Castrol LMA is recommended in all of the Girling seal kits etc, which is all of the seals in the Goose.....except perhaps the M/C.

It is a Dot4 certification, and now, all you can get is synthetic, and you can use it in all of the reservoirs etc.

I had to buy 4 or 6 gallons to get one.....but the remaining jugs sold quickly at the local Pantera Club meeting!

Typically you can find this in the better chain stores.....your mileage may vary! Certainly online.....

ALSO- if you replace those short sections of rubber line between the brake booster/clutch master and the reservoirs, be sure to use the proper stuff! VW brake hose is the hot ticket...typically green and will not get eaten by the brake fluid!

Steve
PS: I just use the DOT4 in all of my vehicles now, except the motorcycle which wants Dot5. Cuts down on having to remember what's in which......!

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