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Hey guys. I'm having a new custom radiator built by the guys at "Be Cool" custom radiators. www.becool.com

I'm having them reverse the the top attaching ears so I can lean the radiator forward and put sucker fans on the rear. I am also having them use appropriate tubing for the hose attachment so I don't have problems attaching the 1 3/8 hose to the radiator. They have discussed having the tubing come out of the radiator at an angle similar to stock only extended to clear the rear mounted fans. This way I should be able to use strait pieces of 1 3/8 hose to connect to stock pipes. I am also considering using 3/8 NPT bungs for the temp sensors so I can use common of the shelf sensor's. While I'm at it I am using Pantera-Electronics fan system that uses a 3/8 NPT sensor.

I am still debating how the sucker fans will be mounted either with or without an shroud. I have seen aftermarket fans done both ways. It appears at low speeds an enclosure would help the fans pull air through the entire radiator; however, at speed the rear enclosure would restrict air flow to only the air that could flow through the fan openings. Any thoughts?

They also offer a black finish that apparently does not affect performance and keeps a more original look, at least from the outside of the car.

My car has a rebuilt Cleveland engine that we assume will be in the upper 500hp range so I want to make sure I get all the cooling I need.

Does anybody have any other thoughts of what they might want in a radiator if the sky is the limit, like relocating the drain or vent etc?
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quote:
Anything to improve on the Fluidnye radiator

My question to you is why are you reinventing the wheel?

First off I assume you are having it made in aluminum?

The fluidyne has been generally accepted as a good performing replacement for the stock unit. Early builds seemed to have some longevity issues, that appears to have been fixed.

That said...

Yes, a shroud will restrict movement. But that appears to not be an issue. All the fluidyne installs are shrouded. And with dual flexalite fans, most of the area IS open to air flow.

DO extend the water necks for fan clearance. You should have your fans on hand before the build to make sure they will properly fit.

Fans should never mount with the zip ties some vendors supply. Will tear up the core fins over time. Pop rivets and aluminum stock can be used to fabricate a mounting system. There should be enough area, and accessibility, on the top and bottom cover plates for riveting.

There is a proper black paint for radiators. It is not paint as you normally think of it. Regular paint will detract from the cooling performance. Personally, since your radiator is not stock, you are adding Jon's controls and I imagine other upgrades, I would just stay with natural finish aluminum.

But again, why reinvent the wheel?

Larry
I don't intend to reinvent the wheel. I was at a hot rod show in the Chicago area and a rep from Be Cool Radiators was there. They're products are very nice at least in appearance and they have a good reputation from engine builders I have talked to.

I spoke to the rep who indicated he was familiar with Panteras and was interested in building a radiator system, radiator and fans. The rest is now in motion. I figured another product in the market could only be a good thing. From all I have read the Fluidyne appears to be working well, as are some other aluminum and even stock radiators. Although I have read a couple blogs on leaking Fluidyne radiators. Of course I am not naive to the fact that there will always be a couple problem products when dealing with such volume. I had also read else where that Fluidyne had sourced their products overseas, but I have not seen any more on this so I don't know where they are made. Does anyone else know? I would like to buy American if possible.

In my case I have a new high output engine that I wanted to make sure cooled properly, so I am taking advise from you guys on the site and doing proper upgrades, SS tubes, electronics etc My current radiator is original and I have watched the temp climb on occasion with the old engine. Since there are a couple different options and/or opinions such as upgraded electronics shroud vs no shroud, lay down or leave it upright, I figured it couldn't hurt to try another vendor to see what they come up with. That's why I'm looking for any input on any improvements that could be made to what is out there now. And yes, it has crossed my mind that I have started a journey that I should have left alone, but the guys from Be Cool have been incredibly supportive and certainly have experience in the business.

So what do you think, maybe a DeTomaso emblem burned into the top of the radiator. Smiler
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the guys from Be Cool have been incredibly supportive

Supportive, on a new prototype to add to their line should translate to a free radiator. Wink
quote:
can't stand those ties

If you are using them already, please do realize they may very well already be damaging your core, especially if you have an aluminum radiator.

Larry

Here is a photo of the shrouded Ron Davis stock replacement that Quella sells.

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quote:
any improvements that could be made

You may want to consider adjusting the angle of the bottom mounting pins to reflect the change in mounting angle.

And as mentioned earlier, you may want to consider enlarging the top and bottom cover plates to provide mounting sections for the shrouded fans.

Is Be Cool also providing the shroud and fans?

Larry
I had a radiator built by Mculloch fabricating in AZ, I also did the swirl tank mods as suggested on this forum.... My car will not even reach operating temp in the morning, it runs at 154 with a single 16" spal. Once I put the A/C condensor in front of it and turn on the fan I HOPE I can get it to run at 190....
Last edited by plt-1
I am not planning on putting the AC up front. Of course things change..

Be Cool is building the radiator with fans, so they will incorporate the fan mounts or shroud as they build the radiator. Still trying to determine if I want the shroud or not. I want to be able to have the car drivable on the street but I also run the car at open track events in the mid-west. A shroud with vents that open at speed might be best; however, I do agree with the "kiss" principal so I am on the fence.

PLT-1 wrote he is only running 154 deg. Shouldn't the thermostat restrict the flow so the engine temp warms to operating temp? I wish I understood this all better but I have read that running to cool may be worse than a little hot. Did you do the whole system where you eliminated the over flow tank?
Ive followed these cooling system mods here on the forums. Very impressive engineering and fabrication. Some day I will take on a project like these. Maybe next winters. I am equally concerned with oil temps and will be keeping a close eye on that this summer. I just hope I get everything back together and running to take advantage of some spirited driving this summer. Cool

Until I am able to take on these extensive modifications, is anybody running an air cooled oil cooler that works?
quote:
Of course, your cooling system has to be top notch to handle the extra heat.

Larry


Thus the new radiator.

Are the water/oil coolers available through the normal sources.

Anybody try using a separate cooling system for the water/oil cooler coolant like they do on the newer supercharged cars for their charge coolers? Of course that means running coolant lines to the front of the car and adding another radiator albeit a smaller one and fluid pump. Probably not worth the effort; however this would avoid tapping into the existing cooling system. And if it were to develop a leak or failure it would not be catastrophic, you just wouldn't have the oil cooling feature, the oil would still flow and standard cooling system would continue.

I need to stop thinking about this so much before I overheat.
If you back-up one page, to the Engine Forum Summary page, you'll see sticky #2 about the cooling system. All the info most owners will ever need is there.

There are two schools of thought in regards to cooling systems, the older school of thought believes in slowing the coolant down, giving it time to absorb heat in the engine block and time to transfer heat to the air in the radiator. This is the basis of the Panteras cooling system. Frankly, it seems to work quite well with good quality parts.

The newer school of thought believes in speeding up the flow of coolant, the faster the better. This is the school of thought JT was following as he made his mods to his Pantera's cooling system. This is also the basis for the parts I've had custom built for my Pantera. Some of the re-engineering included in speeding up coolant flow are eliminating the swirl tank, eliminating sharp bends in the tubing, higher flow remote thermostat, higher flow coolant pumps, single pass radiators, larger tubes between the motor and radiator. In other words, some major reworking of the cooling system.

John also installed a de-gas tank (surge tank) and reworked the venting system to make it functional. This improvement is something anyone can do, regardless which school of thought they choose to follow, this is the improvement PLT-1 made to his Pantera. I highly recommend it.

Should you extensively modify the system like JT did, or optimize the system that's already there? Well, your Pantera will be more desirable when you decide to sell it if you optimize the oem system. Its also much easier to buy a few off-the-shelf parts and install them than to have parts custom made. A lot of owners are using their cars on track days and driving their cars around town in places like Phoenix Arizona with no problems at all, using an optimized oem cooling system. The guys who raced the Pantera at LeMans in 1972 and 1973 raced using the oem system, competing with 500 BHP motors and at 170 mph top speeds. For the majority of owners an optimized oem cooling system is all that will ever be necessary. My advice is to optimize the oem system, and only consider re-engineering it when the optimized oem system proves to be inadequate. A situation where an optimized oem system "may" be inadequate is open road racing in the higher speed classes on days when the temps hoover around 100 degrees F.

Anybody racing their Pantera needs a motor oil cooler and a transaxle oil cooler. This is where to spend your money first, before you do any re-engineering of the coolant system.

Whether or not to use a radiator shroud hinges simply upon how you intend to use the car. Most guys drive their cars on track days with shrouded Flex-A-Lite fan kits, no problems experienced. This is what you would call recreational track use, the car is basically a street car, and the shroud helps in those stop and go driving situations which occur much more often than the day or two each year the car is driven on a track. The guys involved in open road racing in the higher speed classes on days when the temps hoover around 100 degrees F will be better off without radiator shrouds. The more you set your car up for serious racing, the less "street friendly" your car is going to be, that's an unavoidable fact of life.

-G
Last edited by George P
That makes a lot of sense. I have reviewed all the prior posts I could find including yours. There is some great information to be gathered here on the boards; maybe to much. I like your idea of making the next upgrade an oil cooler. This is an area where I can see a potential for problems on track. My track days will be limited to lapping at local mid-west tracks. The longest and fastest is Road America, about four miles. Ive seen days at the track in the high 90's and right at 100 deg. It can get hot here in the summer.

My typical track car is a Cobra Mustang with vortech supercharger and suspension and brake upgrades. So I'm not completely new to cars that run hot. I just am new at running the Pantera on track. But it will be fun to learn.

As for the current system I am taking your advise and replacing all the cooling tubes; although I have taken the old ones off and they look clear, it is one less thing to worry about down the road. I also replaced both tanks with stainless. I have discussed an option with the guys at Be Cool radiators wherein the shroud will be full with cut outs covered by plates that can be removed with a couple screws so the radiator will flow free for track events. I'll post pictures if it works out.
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