So I finally get # 1791 home and there is a strong smell of burnt clutch.
I suspect the drivers for the Car transport company I hired.
Now it is very difficult to select any gear..it take 3 or 4 attempts to engage reverse or first without crashing gears.
Is there anything I can do short of a Clutch Service?
Thanks
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check the setting of the clutch slave. Maybe you have to much free travel before engaging and thus not enough to seperate.
do you have the external slave or was an internal installed?
See my other post.
File a claim. This is nothing to fool around with. ZFs cost THOUSANDS to refurbish.
Ask MatG.
Rocky
I hired Reliable Carriers..a.reputable outfit and waited 4 weeks for the delivery.
They picked up the car 7/19 took it to their warehouse and delivered it 7/20
No mileage difference recorded unless the odometer has failed.
1) reverse is always hard to do as non synchonzed..at least I need 2 ..3 attemps..and all is brand new
2) check the setting of the shifter according spec (again)
3) moving a Panter up and down a trailer is hard work, so "slipping clutch car movement" applies there at least.
4) if no milage..you are for high percentage good....
5) check fluid level in main clutch container at front
6) drain SLAVE in engine bay again
7) check clutch play ..as alread suggested. There is little good from bad play on this car clutch
8) fileing a claim is a least something for the books and you should do. In my case they did not pay as any engine and drive train issue where not covered..always surprise in life..
..crossing my fingers!
Matthias
Set everything up to spec according to the workshop manual, to be sure the t/out bearing is not running constantly, make sure you have full pressure at the slave. slave adjustment is paramount. If not adjusted correctly it may possible be holding the disc from locking down. Next, if all else fails, you can have the clutch pack out & on the bench is 3 hours using air tools, no bid deal.
If it was somewhat sudden onset maybe also make sure your trunnion didn’t get a little loose (my grind issue in the link below). Based on the photo in your other post of your transport company, they have a straight drive in ramp with very little angle which would help in not having to ride the clutch that much. I had the same type of level ramp transport with my Lambo because that car is notorious for quick clutch burn on severe angle ramps. So, level ramp like that is a good thing.
My issue was this slightly loose trunnion noted below. On mine it took a 15/16 wrench to slightly tighten up the bolt under the car:
https://pantera.infopop.cc/top...ar-grind-and-pop-out
Have you watched the clutch disengage through the window in the bellhousing?
I must confess..I'm not a mechanic.
I completed a Mechanic's Correspondence Course at home just so I would know a bit of theory.My biggest job to date was changing a Timing Belt on a Porsche 928 S4.
I just purchased Quickjack Lifts and my plan was to change fluidson the Pantera.
Now i'm looking at replacing the clutch thanks to the drivers from Reliable Carriers.
Does a step by step procedure exist anywhere ?
I believe a McLeod Dual Disc clutch in place now.
Any Suggestions.
Thanks in advance.
If the car was functioning fine before transport I just don’t see how they burned through the clutch with that nice transport set up, but that’s just my thought. I’m no mechanic either by any means, but solved my issue with a turn of the wrench. I would snug up the trunnion bearing if it needs it and check the slave adjustment first before doing a clutch. In another instance on my car the small slave adjustment bolt worked its way loose and I couldn’t shift without grind, but getting that screwed back in position did the fix too.
I am inspired to do all that you suggest.
Just out of curiosity when you press in your clutch pedal, when do you start to feel some resistance/pressure? When my slave was out of adjustment due to the adjustment screw backing out my clutch pedal was not strong at the initial push of the pedal.
I will check tomorrow morning..I haven't driven it since delivery and I need to check now that I have more information
Not to complicate matters further but this attachment also went bad soon after I bought my black car, so I had to replace that as well. That was a pain in the crotch, difficult to get at connections in a cramped space under the dash. But even with me being a short tempered rookie I was able to change that out too. The experts here have great guidance. Later along the way had to replace the salve in the engine bay too due to grinding/internal slave going bad; got a long throw when replaced that.
I did notice that the clutch cylinder was low..what fluid is recommended
.I think the Reliable carriers drivers did not know how much torque the 351C has and needlessly revved the engine to slip the clutch thus burning it.
The mileage when I received the car matches the mileage shown in the sellers showroom
Dot 4 goes in there. If the fluid is that low maybe air got in, so you would need to fill & bleed the slave at the bleed screw. Still seems too odd to me that the carrier could have burned the clutch up in that little jont in and out of the level carrier.
I agree with you but the undeniable aroma of burned clutch was present for a few days...besides this is something I would like to address anyway.
I plan to keep this car until I am no longer physically able to drive it.
( Hopefully that is a long time from now)
...The Switch to Activate the 'Back-Up' Lights is Adjusted/Screwed IN TOO FAR! Preventing Correct Shift Alignment, INTO Reverse!
MJ
Hmmm...Having owned several Italian Exotics in he past I remembered a trick.
In the Maserati the trick was to put it in 1st then pull up / over and across then down into reverse.
On the Pantera i noticed that if I slide it into 4th first then it slots into reverse with much more ease.
does200 posted:If the car was functioning fine before transport I just don’t see how they burned through the clutch with that nice transport set up, but that’s just my thought. I’m no mechanic either by any means, but solved my issue with a turn of the wrench. I would snug up the trunnion bearing if it needs it and check the slave adjustment first before doing a clutch. In another instance on my car the small slave adjustment bolt worked its way loose and I couldn’t shift without grind, but getting that screwed back in position did the fix too.
So I removed the rubber Bellhousing Cap and with flashlight peered inside.
There was a strong burnt smell as well as black soot and moisture on the back of the cap and around the opening.
I saw an Orange clutch ( I assume Centerforce )
Is there a way to determine the condition of pressure plate through this opening?
thrillrider posted:Hmmm...Having owned several Italian Exotics in he past I remembered a trick.
In the Maserati the trick was to put it in 1st then pull up / over and across then down into reverse.
On the Pantera i noticed that if I slide it into 4th first then it slots into reverse with much more ease.
On these cars many owners have suggested moving the stick into 2nd just prior to shifting into 1st. Can’t remember the reasoning for it, but it does make for a very smooth shift into 1st for me from a stop.
How firm was your clutch pedal when starting to pressing it in? Not firm right when starting to press it in was always a sign to me that my slave had incorrect adjustment or was weak from air in the system (and of course subsequent gear grind).
Actually the clutch pressure is quite firm throughout the pedal range but engagement is in the last 2" of travel.
On a different note:
Am I the only Pantera owner riding around without a Horn
I assume that the Rad upgrade consumed the space that a horn would occupy.
Is there a solution ( I am partial to Maserati Air Horns )
I'm not sure what radiator upgrade you have, but the original horns were mounted in the area below the right front headlight.
John
Thank You!
I just got the full set of manuals from Hall....its great that they still exist even in reprint form
