So I finally get # 1791 home and there is a strong smell of burnt clutch.

I suspect the drivers for the Car transport company I hired.

Now it is very difficult to select any gear..it take 3 or 4 attempts to engage reverse or first without crashing gears.

Is there anything I can do short of a Clutch Service?

Thanks

Original Post

1) reverse is always hard to do as non synchonzed..at least I need 2 ..3 attemps..and all is brand new
2) check the setting of the shifter according spec (again)
3) moving a Panter up and down a trailer is hard work, so "slipping clutch car movement" applies there at least.
4) if no milage..you are for high percentage good....
5) check fluid level in main clutch container at front
6) drain SLAVE in engine bay again
7) check clutch play ..as alread suggested. There is little good from bad play on this car clutch
8) fileing a claim is a least something for the books and you should do. In my case they did not pay as any engine and drive train issue where not covered..always surprise in life..

..crossing my fingers!

Matthias

Set everything up to spec according to the workshop manual, to be sure the t/out bearing is not running constantly, make sure you have full pressure at the slave. slave adjustment is paramount. If not adjusted correctly it may possible be holding the disc from locking down. Next, if all else fails, you can have the clutch pack out & on the bench is 3 hours using air tools, no bid deal.

If it was somewhat sudden onset maybe also make sure your trunnion didn’t get a little loose (my grind issue in the link below). Based on the photo in your other post of your transport company, they have a straight drive in ramp with very little angle which would help in not having to ride the clutch that much. I had the same type of level ramp transport with my Lambo because that car is notorious for quick clutch burn on severe angle ramps. So, level ramp like that is a good thing.

My issue was this slightly loose trunnion noted below. On mine it took a 15/16 wrench to slightly tighten up the bolt under the car:

https://pantera.infopop.cc/top...ar-grind-and-pop-out

 

I must confess..I'm not a mechanic.

I completed a Mechanic's Correspondence Course at home just so I would know a bit of theory.My biggest job to date was changing a Timing Belt on a Porsche 928 S4.

I just purchased Quickjack Lifts and my plan was to change fluidson the Pantera.

Now i'm looking at replacing the clutch thanks to the drivers from Reliable Carriers.

Does a step by step procedure exist anywhere ?

I believe a McLeod Dual Disc clutch in place now.

Any Suggestions.

Thanks in advance.

If the car was functioning fine before transport I just don’t see how they burned through the clutch with that nice transport set up, but that’s just my thought. I’m no mechanic either by any means, but solved my issue with a turn of the wrench. I would snug up the trunnion bearing if it needs it and check the slave adjustment first before doing a clutch. In another instance on my car the small slave adjustment bolt worked its way loose and I couldn’t shift without grind, but getting that screwed back in position did the fix too.

Just out of curiosity when you press in your clutch pedal, when do you start to feel some resistance/pressure? When my slave was out of adjustment due to the adjustment screw backing out my clutch pedal was not strong at the initial push of the pedal.

Not to complicate matters further but this attachment also went bad soon after I bought my black car, so I had to replace that as well. That was a pain in the crotch, difficult to get at connections in a cramped space under the dash. But even with me being a short tempered rookie I was able to change that out too. The experts here have great guidance. Later along the way had to replace the salve in the engine bay too due to grinding/internal slave going bad; got a long throw when replaced that.

Slave

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Photos (1)

I did notice that the clutch cylinder was low..what fluid is recommended

.I think the Reliable carriers drivers did not know how much torque the 351C has and needlessly revved the engine to slip the clutch thus burning it.

The mileage when I received the car matches the mileage shown in the sellers showroom

Dot 4 goes in there. If the fluid is that low maybe air got in, so you would need to fill & bleed the slave at the bleed screw. Still seems too odd to me that the carrier could have burned the clutch up in that little jont in and out of the level carrier.

Hmmm...Having owned several Italian Exotics in he past I remembered a trick.

In the Maserati the trick was to put it in 1st then pull up / over and across then down into reverse.

On the Pantera i noticed that if I slide it into 4th first  then it slots into reverse with much more ease.  

does200 posted:

If the car was functioning fine before transport I just don’t see how they burned through the clutch with that nice transport set up, but that’s just my thought. I’m no mechanic either by any means, but solved my issue with a turn of the wrench. I would snug up the trunnion bearing if it needs it and check the slave adjustment first before doing a clutch. In another instance on my car the small slave adjustment bolt worked its way loose and I couldn’t shift without grind, but getting that screwed back in position did the fix too.

So I removed the rubber Bellhousing Cap and with flashlight peered inside.

There was a strong burnt smell as well as black soot and moisture on the back of the cap and around the opening.

I saw an Orange clutch ( I assume Centerforce )

Is there a way to determine the condition of pressure plate through this opening?

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