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quote:
Originally posted by JTpantera:
Those calipers look like a nice upgrade from Wilwoods. Piston seals, all internal passages. Looking at their website, it wasn't obvious that they have adapter brackets for the Pantera. Do they or are you modifying one of their universal adapters?


I will draw myself adapters and have them machined in a nearby company.
Hi JT.

They have adapters there fits for Pantera
they use my old Brake for mesurements

Call Them and talk with Alex.
Say Helle from me.

Kjeld Pedersen
Denmark

quote:
Originally posted by JTpantera:
Those calipers look like a nice upgrade from Wilwoods. Piston seals, all internal passages. Looking at their website, it wasn't obvious that they have adapter brackets for the Pantera. Do they or are you modifying one of their universal adapters?
I have heard nothing but good regarding the Hi-Spec calipers, especially the rears incorporating a handbrake. They are the go to choice for kits in the UK to pass the IVA or MoT test which include a rolling road resistance test and the handbrake has to hold the vehicle evenly distributed on each wheel.

Julian
quote:
Originally posted by René #4406:
Why not use a hydraulic handbrake?


...Because it would be Risky and Dangerous! It could Release/Creep on-it's-own, when parked on a Steep Hill with the Temperature Change from Hot to Cold, say Overnight.

And Second! You would Have NO EMERGENCY BRAKE!!
Because you believe in the effectiveness of a mechanical handbrake for something other than a parking brake?

And there is a double circuit on the Pantera, so yes, I think a hydraulic handbrake on the rear cricuit is safer than a cable handbrake, especially if there is a damage in the front hydraulic circuit.

But everyone does as he prefers, it was just a simple question.
Yes, the biggest reason for not having hydraulic handbrake is that it is illegal here in Finland.
I wanted the easiest and cheapest way to have the handbrake, because I really don't use it that much. It's mainly for the every year inspection to show the car is road legal. My Pantera will not be the trackcar nor I won't push it to the limits frequently.
Chris, I have a relatively early set of Wilwoods bought from Pantera East back in the early '90s. Perhaps, Wilwood has made some improvements since then. I've owned them long enough to learn a thing or two. I have no issue with their stopping ability and have used different pads for track and street.

My issues are two fold:

1) A lack of seals around the pistons. This condition invites moisture corrosion and premature seal failure from dirt. I've owned mine long enough to replace parts (pistons & seals) many times despite limited mileage. Thus, they benefit from occasional disassembly and cleaning of the pistons. Not an exercise that I enjoy.

2) the pads rattle and rock. The pads rock and then noisely click in their perch when the brakes are initially tapped. This worsened over time as the aluminum perch wore. I fabbed a steel spacer to remedy the aluminum wear and minimize the noise. Actually it is more the caliper perch deforming (rather then wearing) from the steel backing of the pad slamming the aluminum caliper upon application. Granted, the Pantera saw substantial track time and hard braking, but still less than ideal. As loud as my car is, I still hear them when braking.

The attraction of the Wilwoods are that they are inexpensive and stop well when maintained. However, I see them as a racing brake set up and not optimally designed for street application due primary to a lack of piston seals.

There is a reason that competitors brake calipers with rattle pads, that are machined for and come with piston seals, and are cast with internal passages eliminating external crossover lines cost more. These are benefits that I would have paid more for in hindsight. Live and learn.
Some things have been done, some doesn't..
Manufacturing the adapters for the brakes, finishing the interior, installing some tiny important stuff and still seems there's a whole lot to do.

Well, got gauges from Speedhut.

Next will be the clutch master cylinder and doing the clutch and brake lines. Clutchline will be completely braided stainless steel. And most of the brakelines too.

Sexy photo of the gauges:

Newbie question Don't want to hijack this post, my apologizes in advance but I am unable to see any of the posted pictures. Anyone have a quick answer? I just see a non-clickable Picture icons. I can see most other post pics but not all

Intro JerrySr (New owner 1 week) 1972, starting restoration. Been stalking for weeks, Great website and info. Thanks
Parts and more parts..

Got my brakecaliper adapters today from the paintshop. Okay, we have the paintline at work so it was easy to put these hanging among our own products.



Picked up the armsrests for the doors from a familyfriend who is working at the furniturefactory. Same leather as the doorpanels.





Selfmade louvers under the windshield. They need still some grinding and sanding and ofcourse the gloss black paint.





Quick fitting for the Wilwood clutch master cylinder I brought home from a NYC trip.



Started also fixing the photos from the beginning of the thread. Still huge amount of photos left to transfer to the new photobank and link to here.
quote:
Originally posted by garth66: Inquiring minds want to know about your brake caliper adapters. Also, what are the part numbers for the HiSpec Calipers you're using?

Thanks!


Front calipers are Monster 4 series for the max. 360mm rotor. Partnumber M4360-154.

Rear calipers are Billet 4 SVA. Partnumber SVA140.

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