Power window modification

quote:

Originally posted by JK:
Jeff, have you done the aerostar motor conversion?

My understanding is there's two types of aerostar motors and the correct one for this conversion is almost impossible to find.

Josh

Josh

Yes, 6559 has the Aerostar window motor conversion and yes I have also been told that you need to get the right Aerostar motor. I bought remanufactured units for about $85 each rather than troll the junk yards in the hot summer weather here in Texas. I forget what the differences in the motors are. I would suggest searching the POCA email list archives.

http://realbig.com/detomaso/

I also did the mod to lower the window so it goes all the way down. I couldn't be more pleased with it.

Thanks Gary. Thanks Jeff. I have some free time coming up, so I'll have to give this an honest effort.

Josh

here is some more info from the earlier post:

The job was a piece of cake! When you print the instructions from the above website it looks kind of intimidating, but they describe everything in great detail including removal & replacement of the door panels, armrests, etc. It also gives you a fairly comprehensive list of tools required to do the job.
I can't tell you the part number off hand, but you need to be sure you specify the 4 bolt unit instead of the 3 bolt unit. Apparently the 3 bolt units are more readily available. I got mine from the local parts house but they are available from Pep Boys, Advanced Auto Parts & your local Ford dealer. Ask them to ask the warehouse to verify that it is a 4 bolt unit before they ship it. Prices ranged from $79 (remanufactured) to $150 for a new one, with a 25 -30 dollar core charge. I went to the local junkyard to see if there were any there and found two 3 bolt units. I bought them for 12 bucks each and used them for the cores and saved about 26 dollars. They both worked, so you might want to try a junkyard and see if you can find a couple of 4 bolt units that work and save yourself a bunch of money.

One thing that confused me initially about the instructions was the drawing of the hole locations. I initially believed that they were drawn to scale and the holes didn't line up. I then reread the instructions and saw that you have to draw your own templates using the measurements provided.

This job was one of the easier more satisfying jobs I did on the car but only because the instructions were extremely detailed and easy to follow.

Jeff, what is the mod to get the window to go all the way down, I'm real interested in that


thanks
Gary #06984

Bill's instructions for the Taurus motors states:

On the Pantera driver side lift mechanism, place the Taurus passenger side window lift motor (Taurus Ford PN E6DF-14A366-AB labeled "RF") as shown in Fig. 6. Check to be sure that the Taurus drive gear is fully engaged, but not binding, with the Pantera lift mechanism sector gear.

Sounds like to me that the motor should be more than 50% engaged. I have 2 Taurus motors waiting to be installed so anyone else had a problem or recommendations please add to this.

Steve

quote:

Originally posted by Pooky:
Bill's instructions for the Taurus motors states:

On the Pantera driver side lift mechanism, place the Taurus passenger side window lift motor (Taurus Ford PN E6DF-14A366-AB labeled "RF") as shown in Fig. 6. Check to be sure that the Taurus drive gear is fully engaged, but not binding, with the Pantera lift mechanism sector gear.

Sounds like to me that the motor should be more than 50% engaged. I have 2 Taurus motors waiting to be installed so anyone else had a problem or recommendations please add to this.

Steve

There are two planes of engaugement. He is refering to how close the axle center lines of the gears should be together. (the length of gear assembly)
I am refering to the other plane (which cannot be modified) the height of one gear in relationship to the other.
I'am around 50% with everything bolted together.
That is much more then I thought I had mocked up.
The wear pattern on the gear of the motor (yes the part numbers are correct) would tend to indicate that this amount is approximately correct.
I'm concerned because the gears on the Pantera part(just forgot it's term, sorry, brain fart), is stamped steel, not hardened.
Now since I probably only open my windows once or twice a year anyway it probably won't wear out in my lifetime.

Now I'm as of this moment still working on the first one, the passenger side so all this is tentative.
It could still blow up, not work, or otherwise crapout.
I will soon find out.

quote:

Originally posted by fordgt:
I looked at my earlier post and here is the info


Just picked up my window motor for the passenger side. The Cardone part number is 42-376. The Cardone part number for the driver side is 42-377. Cardone is a remanufacturer of all kinds of electric auto parts. Pep Boys and Advanced Auto Parts and the others should have a Cardone parts book to order from.

They're advertised on eBay:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/A1-CARDONE-WINDOW-MOTOR-...QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
and
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/A1-CARDONE-WINDOW-MOTOR-...QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

quote:

Originally posted by fordgt:
Jeff, what is the mod to get the window to go all the way down, I'm real interested in that
thanks
Gary #06984

I redrilled the mounting holes that the window holes go into to lower the window relative to the lift mechanism.

quote:

Originally posted by jeff6559:

quote:

Originally posted by fordgt:
Jeff, what is the mod to get the window to go all the way down, I'm real interested in that
thanks
Gary #06984

I redrilled the mounting holes that the window holes go into to lower the window relative to the lift mechanism.

Jeff, I need clarification on this, please. You redrilled what holes? Are you talking about where the glass bolts in?

Also, I have the passenger side in and operating.
It comes down fast but is rattling going back up. Maybe it's binding.
I have to find out why of course before it gets put back together. I have all new rubbers on it?
I also noticed that to make the window go all the way down, the bolt hole that holds the bottom of the track needs to be moved inboard.
My window actually hits the door skin at about 2" off of the bottom.

I have done the Tarus motor conversion, in fact, doing it about 10 years ago, I could of been the first or at least the first to publicise it. I had talked about it on the Email Forum.

I experienced a similar problem with the window motor gear not going deep enough to fully catch/engauge the teeth on the door mechanism. What I did was to machine a small portion of the motor mounting surface to make the motor sit deeper. At the time there were many motors to choose from, but I chose the Tarus because they were FREE. I never got around to writing an article because my pictures came out blurry.

[QUOTE]Originally posted by CrazyDave:
#6825 since 1987
Twin Turbo 800HP
11.80@132

Love that E.T. with that high MPH
Shows how hard it is to get traction and shift the Pantera on the drag strip.

A typical 11.80 car might only run about 112 MPH

quote:

Originally posted by CrazyDave:
I have done the Tarus motor conversion, in fact, doing it about 10 years ago, I could of been the first or at least the first to publicise it. I had talked about it on the Email Forum.

I experienced a similar problem with the window motor gear not going deep enough to fully catch/engauge the teeth on the door mechanism. What I did was to machine a small portion of the motor mounting surface to make the motor sit deeper. At the time there were many motors to choose from, but I chose the Tarus because they were FREE. I never got around to writing an article because my pictures came out blurry.

I have something like 50% engaugement. It seems to be enough.
CD, have you had any problems with the motors since?

As far as traction is concerned, with 800 it must be like driving on ice?
I had 563hp and it would just spin tires from a standing start. I would also have hot spots all over the flywheel and pressure plate.
I built a new engine with only 10.5:1 compression and took some cam out. It's only 485hp.
It goes through a clutch after 10 runs instead of 5.