Power window modification

Doug,
I have the window motors on my "TO-DO" list, the motors are sitting in a box, waiting for me to muster up the courage to get after them. Keep me informed.

Mark

Will do. Sorry I can't make Vegas. I know Ellie is really disappointed now.
Have a good time. Don't do anything I wouldn't...nah, ya' better not.

Doug, I did the conversion about 2 years ago on one window and about 6 months later on the other. I followed the directions on Mike Daily's website to the "T" and have been extremely happy with the job. The windows go up about twice as fast as the originals. I have had no problems whatsoever with the conversion and would do it again. However I have my eye on the VADER system that is advertised in this months POCA for $750, that eliminates all of the guts and a bunch of weight from the stock configuration and permits the window to go all the way down and is supposed to not require any modifications. The downside is the cost is $750 but I figure my already converted regulators will bring in a couple hundred bucks on ebay.

This is one of the things I hope to investigate in Vegas next week.

Gary #06984

Granted it looks beter but is it that important for the glass to go all the way down?
Thanks for the encouragement. Didn't you notice that the teeth are tip to tip?

only if you want to look cool with your arm out the window, I don't recall a problem with the teeth

Doug, I remember making a template out of thick paper before drilling the holes. You have to locate the motor just right. It is difficult to drill three holes and get all the bolts to go through them withou making the holes too big, but that is what you have to do. Fit twice drill once.

quote:

Originally posted by lastpushbutton:
Doug, I remember making a template out of thick paper before drilling the holes. You have to locate the motor just right. It is difficult to drill three holes and get all the bolts to go through them withou making the holes too big, but that is what you have to do. Fit twice drill once.

I'm getting the impression that no one has had a problem with this but more importantly no one understands what I am saying.
I am saying the the height of the drive gear on the new Ford motor isn't high enough to fully engauge into the teeth on the Pantera window regulator.
The teeth are virtually tip to tip.
The gear should be at least .125" higher to engauge fully.
I suppose that I will have to be the expert on this one too. I hate when that happens.

Doug, Do you have the right motors? It is Ford Areostar not Windstar.

Have you gone to the Pantera Place? Explicit directions are there. Follow them exactly and you won't be disappointed. It's a mod that's been done by many people and everyone seems to think it is great.

Following their directions is what caused this. If you notice there are two articles. One using Taurus motors, the other Aerostar. I have the Taurus motors and the teeth don't fully engauge.
I've run into these situations before.
I had a HS shop student wanting to build a laser as a project.
The laser required a gem quality ruby of 6 carats or larger.
He started digging up the back yard to find one when he found out what the stone costs.
Apparently, only partial tooth engaugement is sufficient although I don't think that either one of the authors would know what that means.
Some much for pencil necks writing technical articles.

My conversion went fairly smoothly like Ford GT's. I also made an accurate template as LPB said to make sure the mounting holes were in the right place the first time. Hope you figure out a simple solution soon!

quote:

Originally posted by PanteraDoug:
Following their directions is what caused this. If you notice there are two articles. One using Taurus motors, the other Aerostar.

PanteraDoug,
Sorry, didn't realize someone had added a second article with Taurus motors. The Aerostar version is the first and it works like a charm. If the Taurus conversion isn't clean, someone should alert Mike Dailey. Mike, you there?

Jeff
6559

Yea, mine was with the Aerostar motors too. Didn't realize there was a second option.

I got the Taurus motors. There is an installation article about using them as well.
I have them to where there is about a 50% tooth engaugement now.
The original mock up by me had them at just tooth to tooth.
I haven't tried them. I was just frozen until I got more feedback.
I'll find out soon enough if it works.
Thanks for everyones feedback. I do appreciate it.

quote:

I have my eye on the VADER system that is advertised in this months POCA for $750, that eliminates all of the guts and a bunch of weight from the stock configuration and permits the window to go all the way down and is supposed to not require any modifications. The downside is the cost is $750

Ted advertised a sale on this system a few years ago for around $500. To this day I regret not purchasing it at that price.
I've heard nothing but good things about this offering except its price. Today, Ted won't budge on his price of $750.

Josh

I can't imagine how the Vader windows would work better than the Aerostar powered windows together with the mod to make the windows go all the way down. Even if you bought remanufactured Aerostar motors, they are less than $100 each. The price differential could certainly be put to better use. How about power locks!

Jeff
6559

Jeff, have you done the aerostar motor conversion?
My understanding is there's two types of aerostar motors and the correct one for this conversion is almost impossible to find.

Josh

I had no trouble getting the window motors except one was back ordered and took a couple weeks. They were available at a local parts house, I believe if you search this website I had posted the part numbers. Even so, you have to make sure the parts house orders the correct one, tell them to look at it before you ship it that it has the right number of mounting holes.

I looked at my earlier post and here is the info


Just picked up my window motor for the passenger side. The Cardone part number is 42-376. The Cardone part number for the driver side is 42-377. Cardone is a remanufacturer of all kinds of electric auto parts. Pep Boys and Advanced Auto Parts and the others should have a Cardone parts book to order from.

quote:

Originally posted by JK:
Jeff, have you done the aerostar motor conversion?

My understanding is there's two types of aerostar motors and the correct one for this conversion is almost impossible to find.

Josh

Josh

Yes, 6559 has the Aerostar window motor conversion and yes I have also been told that you need to get the right Aerostar motor. I bought remanufactured units for about $85 each rather than troll the junk yards in the hot summer weather here in Texas. I forget what the differences in the motors are. I would suggest searching the POCA email list archives.

http://realbig.com/detomaso/

I also did the mod to lower the window so it goes all the way down. I couldn't be more pleased with it.

Thanks Gary. Thanks Jeff. I have some free time coming up, so I'll have to give this an honest effort.

Josh

here is some more info from the earlier post:

The job was a piece of cake! When you print the instructions from the above website it looks kind of intimidating, but they describe everything in great detail including removal & replacement of the door panels, armrests, etc. It also gives you a fairly comprehensive list of tools required to do the job.
I can't tell you the part number off hand, but you need to be sure you specify the 4 bolt unit instead of the 3 bolt unit. Apparently the 3 bolt units are more readily available. I got mine from the local parts house but they are available from Pep Boys, Advanced Auto Parts & your local Ford dealer. Ask them to ask the warehouse to verify that it is a 4 bolt unit before they ship it. Prices ranged from $79 (remanufactured) to $150 for a new one, with a 25 -30 dollar core charge. I went to the local junkyard to see if there were any there and found two 3 bolt units. I bought them for 12 bucks each and used them for the cores and saved about 26 dollars. They both worked, so you might want to try a junkyard and see if you can find a couple of 4 bolt units that work and save yourself a bunch of money.

One thing that confused me initially about the instructions was the drawing of the hole locations. I initially believed that they were drawn to scale and the holes didn't line up. I then reread the instructions and saw that you have to draw your own templates using the measurements provided.

This job was one of the easier more satisfying jobs I did on the car but only because the instructions were extremely detailed and easy to follow.

Jeff, what is the mod to get the window to go all the way down, I'm real interested in that


thanks
Gary #06984

Bill's instructions for the Taurus motors states:

On the Pantera driver side lift mechanism, place the Taurus passenger side window lift motor (Taurus Ford PN E6DF-14A366-AB labeled "RF") as shown in Fig. 6. Check to be sure that the Taurus drive gear is fully engaged, but not binding, with the Pantera lift mechanism sector gear.

Sounds like to me that the motor should be more than 50% engaged. I have 2 Taurus motors waiting to be installed so anyone else had a problem or recommendations please add to this.

Steve

quote:

Originally posted by Pooky:
Bill's instructions for the Taurus motors states:

On the Pantera driver side lift mechanism, place the Taurus passenger side window lift motor (Taurus Ford PN E6DF-14A366-AB labeled "RF") as shown in Fig. 6. Check to be sure that the Taurus drive gear is fully engaged, but not binding, with the Pantera lift mechanism sector gear.

Sounds like to me that the motor should be more than 50% engaged. I have 2 Taurus motors waiting to be installed so anyone else had a problem or recommendations please add to this.

Steve

There are two planes of engaugement. He is refering to how close the axle center lines of the gears should be together. (the length of gear assembly)
I am refering to the other plane (which cannot be modified) the height of one gear in relationship to the other.
I'am around 50% with everything bolted together.
That is much more then I thought I had mocked up.
The wear pattern on the gear of the motor (yes the part numbers are correct) would tend to indicate that this amount is approximately correct.
I'm concerned because the gears on the Pantera part(just forgot it's term, sorry, brain fart), is stamped steel, not hardened.
Now since I probably only open my windows once or twice a year anyway it probably won't wear out in my lifetime.

Now I'm as of this moment still working on the first one, the passenger side so all this is tentative.
It could still blow up, not work, or otherwise crapout.
I will soon find out.

quote:

Originally posted by fordgt:
I looked at my earlier post and here is the info


Just picked up my window motor for the passenger side. The Cardone part number is 42-376. The Cardone part number for the driver side is 42-377. Cardone is a remanufacturer of all kinds of electric auto parts. Pep Boys and Advanced Auto Parts and the others should have a Cardone parts book to order from.

They're advertised on eBay:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/A1-CARDONE-WINDOW-MOTOR-...QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
and
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/A1-CARDONE-WINDOW-MOTOR-...QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

quote:

Originally posted by fordgt:
Jeff, what is the mod to get the window to go all the way down, I'm real interested in that
thanks
Gary #06984

I redrilled the mounting holes that the window holes go into to lower the window relative to the lift mechanism.

quote:

Originally posted by jeff6559:

quote:

Originally posted by fordgt:
Jeff, what is the mod to get the window to go all the way down, I'm real interested in that
thanks
Gary #06984

I redrilled the mounting holes that the window holes go into to lower the window relative to the lift mechanism.

Jeff, I need clarification on this, please. You redrilled what holes? Are you talking about where the glass bolts in?

Also, I have the passenger side in and operating.
It comes down fast but is rattling going back up. Maybe it's binding.
I have to find out why of course before it gets put back together. I have all new rubbers on it?
I also noticed that to make the window go all the way down, the bolt hole that holds the bottom of the track needs to be moved inboard.
My window actually hits the door skin at about 2" off of the bottom.

I have done the Tarus motor conversion, in fact, doing it about 10 years ago, I could of been the first or at least the first to publicise it. I had talked about it on the Email Forum.

I experienced a similar problem with the window motor gear not going deep enough to fully catch/engauge the teeth on the door mechanism. What I did was to machine a small portion of the motor mounting surface to make the motor sit deeper. At the time there were many motors to choose from, but I chose the Tarus because they were FREE. I never got around to writing an article because my pictures came out blurry.

[QUOTE]Originally posted by CrazyDave:
#6825 since 1987
Twin Turbo 800HP
11.80@132

Love that E.T. with that high MPH
Shows how hard it is to get traction and shift the Pantera on the drag strip.

A typical 11.80 car might only run about 112 MPH

quote:

Originally posted by CrazyDave:
I have done the Tarus motor conversion, in fact, doing it about 10 years ago, I could of been the first or at least the first to publicise it. I had talked about it on the Email Forum.

I experienced a similar problem with the window motor gear not going deep enough to fully catch/engauge the teeth on the door mechanism. What I did was to machine a small portion of the motor mounting surface to make the motor sit deeper. At the time there were many motors to choose from, but I chose the Tarus because they were FREE. I never got around to writing an article because my pictures came out blurry.

I have something like 50% engaugement. It seems to be enough.
CD, have you had any problems with the motors since?

As far as traction is concerned, with 800 it must be like driving on ice?
I had 563hp and it would just spin tires from a standing start. I would also have hot spots all over the flywheel and pressure plate.
I built a new engine with only 10.5:1 compression and took some cam out. It's only 485hp.
It goes through a clutch after 10 runs instead of 5.