What's the order here? Front brakes, clutch middle, then rear brakes closest to firewall?

Also, what's recommended for clutch fluid?




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Original Post

That's interesting. I wouldn't hazard a guess. Follow the lines to make sure what goes where. Use brake fluid for clutch.

Last edited by rrs1

Update: clutch was first. Leakey soft line. Planning to replace with more soft line. Wondering if hard line is more appropriate. 

Engine vibration will crack any known hard line- need some flex. Use a dash-4 Aeroquip stainless flex line for chassis-hardline to-clutch. A dash-4-to-1/8" or -1/4" pipe fitting screws into the stock slave cylinder and the dash-4 on other end of this fitting screws into the flex hose. A double female dash-4 screws into the stock brass Tee fitting under the car and into the other end of the flex hose (use an o-ring on this end for insurance).

Good for 3000 psi, most AN fittings are stainless so weather proof, indestructible and easy to install. You'll have to measure what length hose you need- something like 2 ft or so. Does not need to be exact- leave some slack. Bleed system & you're done forever with this line.

I was able to purchase the "green" tubing that connects the reservoirs to the hard line (and is brake fluid resistant) from a VW Bug restoration shop.

Thanks Bosswrench!

JMM3- I ended up brazing some hose barbs onto the original hard line. Now wishing I had waited and used the green line. Such is life. What good is originality if the car doesn't run.

… DOT-3 or Dot-4 fluid is used.  The order of the feeds is not important, whatever connects first is OK. Btw, interesting spring on the brake, I think I saw a comment (maybe in the parts manual?) that listed a spring after 8ma1100...

  The green brake line is 4.5mm ID, I think--matching the copper tubes from the reservoirs to replacement banjo bolts wasn't easy....Lee



Permatex is a non-hardening sealant, not a glue. As such, it will move and debond. I would go to a hardware store and find a brass double barb fitting and join your hoses that way, with hose clamps. Or simply stick a short piece of hard line in both hoses and clamp on that. Have you tried short pieces of both lines for compatibility with DOT-4?

...I wondered if I saw that correctly---that kind of splice is unnecessary, you should be able to run 4.5mm all the way to the banjo...unless you are like me, and had to change the Banjo...The original banjo unions for the brake feedlines use the same thin metal tube on at the master cylinder as on the reservoir.  The bolts for these are pretty special (ie. impossible to find), having something like a 14mm top and 12mm base...As I remember, I finally found a 12mm union with a very small (4mm) barb . Otherwise, reducers splices are available to adapt from one tube to another--but introduce another joint where something can leak. At least,  Permatex and glue can be avoided....Lee









Last edited by leea

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