Thanks doug
then, where's the oil cooler ?
My oil cooler is mounted on the inside of the right splash shield.
It isn't as fancy as the louvered splash I posted in the picture, but it works well there none the less.
The motion of the right rear tire creates a vacuum and draws air through the cooler.
This may in fact have been the location of the Gp4 oil coolers on the factory race cars.
It isn't as fancy as the louvered splash I posted in the picture, but it works well there none the less.
The motion of the right rear tire creates a vacuum and draws air through the cooler.
This may in fact have been the location of the Gp4 oil coolers on the factory race cars.
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George,
The Pantera Si had holes in the rear fenders
The cooler is in the air flow ...
Doug,
sorry for my bad english understanding, but you mean that you mounted it in behind or in front of the wheel ?
I don't really understand, in fact, what is the "right splash shield" ?
The Pantera Si had holes in the rear fenders
The cooler is in the air flow ...
Doug,
sorry for my bad english understanding, but you mean that you mounted it in behind or in front of the wheel ?
I don't really understand, in fact, what is the "right splash shield" ?
"72 GTS,
Look at the picture I posted above. This is a picture of an aftermarket stainless steel splash shield.
It installs in the right rear fender well, in front of the wheel and tire.
The oil cooler gets mounted on to it. It mounts on the engine side of the shield.
The louvres are punched into it to permit the air to be drawn through the oil cooler, and then out through the louvres.
The circular motion of the wheel/tire, clockwise, draws the air through the oil cooler, then through the louvres, while the car is in motion and the wheel/tire are rotating.
The tire when it is in motion, acts as a fan.
Your English is very good. I am probably not illustrative enough. I am trying to speak Pantera.
Look at the picture I posted above. This is a picture of an aftermarket stainless steel splash shield.
It installs in the right rear fender well, in front of the wheel and tire.
The oil cooler gets mounted on to it. It mounts on the engine side of the shield.
The louvres are punched into it to permit the air to be drawn through the oil cooler, and then out through the louvres.
The circular motion of the wheel/tire, clockwise, draws the air through the oil cooler, then through the louvres, while the car is in motion and the wheel/tire are rotating.
The tire when it is in motion, acts as a fan.
Your English is very good. I am probably not illustrative enough. I am trying to speak Pantera.
Thank you Doug,
I "see" what you mean, Well I hope !
But you know, we are in a numeric era, in case you find a camera
(That's with respect !)
Philippe
I "see" what you mean, Well I hope !
But you know, we are in a numeric era, in case you find a camera
(That's with respect !)
Philippe
quote:Originally posted by "72 GTS:
Thank you Doug,
I "see" what you mean, Well I hope !
But you know, we are in a numeric era, in case you find a camera
(That's with respect !)
Philippe
I don't have any reservations in taking pictures, BUT in order to do them, I need to take the wheel off, then disassemble the splash shield, AND document everything as I do it.
If I take them from underneath, where everything is normally servicable from, you won't understand how everything relates to each other because of the perspective view that must be taken to get the camera in there.
I never thought when I did these installations that there ever would be anyone interested in seeing them?
The digital 35mm camera on Macro now makes it so easy to do. I did a lot of documentation with my Minolta 35mm at one time on slides. In looking at them though they have been turning green and loosing resolution.
Apparently they were being processed with the Fugi processing, but were Kodachrome film? This was typical for the era but not everyone was told this by the processing company. I wasn't. So now in many cases the pictures are crap, hard to see detail, AND need to be transferred to digital formatting. This is all fine but I have boxes, and boxes of slides to transfer. Many haven't been looked at in 30 years.
As far as the photo developers using the wrong processes on my slides, I didn't know, and I can't do everything. It is easier in a digital world to be more self reliant. It inables me to eliminate the scum bitches that cause the issues to begin with. (sorry for the new term GP. My wife coined it the other day when she got cut off by a Princess driving a SUV.
)The problem also Philippe with digital on Macro setting, I have so much polished stainless steel on the car, I have to put on clothes when I shoot the pictures so you don't see me in the reflections. That is against my nature and have to schedule it to shoot the pictures that you want to see.
Don't worry,
I'll not redesign the wheel, but I have a more precise idea now, as I said, I'm looking for proven solutions
Philippe
I'll not redesign the wheel, but I have a more precise idea now, as I said, I'm looking for proven solutions
Philippe
quote:Originally posted by "72 GTS:
Don't worry,
I'll not redesign the wheel, but I have a more precise idea now, as I said, I'm looking for proven solutions
Philippe
Worry, nah, not me!
In all seriousness though, I think that you need to install the engine and the exhaust system.
Where the exhaust is, the oil lines can't be, etc, so that is a large factor in race access to these accessories.
GP has another thread going for the oil coolers.
Here's my last post on it.
http://pantera.infopop.cc/eve/...991011746#6991011746
Right,
I'm going to order an "Aviaid" soon, is there anything else I should consider ?
(already have a stock gasket)
Thanks
Philippe
I'm going to order an "Aviaid" soon, is there anything else I should consider ?
(already have a stock gasket)
Thanks
Philippe
For a race car I'd install an oil cooler too and I'd need to be talked out of oil drain back hoses into the oil pan.
The Cleveland racing head design is supposed to hold a quart or so of oil in the valve covers to cool the valve springs and reduce the likeliness of spring failure from fatigue.
My A3 heads always hold about 1-1/2" of oil in the covers.
I'm not sure if it's a good or bad idea to change that with drain back tubes. Those were an early solution on the iron heads used in the Boss 302's.
I use a Melling high volume oil pump and a chrome moly drive but with that drive be very, very sure that the gear retaining pins in the distributor are much more then just ok.
The Cleveland racing head design is supposed to hold a quart or so of oil in the valve covers to cool the valve springs and reduce the likeliness of spring failure from fatigue.
My A3 heads always hold about 1-1/2" of oil in the covers.
I'm not sure if it's a good or bad idea to change that with drain back tubes. Those were an early solution on the iron heads used in the Boss 302's.
I use a Melling high volume oil pump and a chrome moly drive but with that drive be very, very sure that the gear retaining pins in the distributor are much more then just ok.
I have been looking at some oil pans recently. Out side of the current offerings, I spoke with a rep at Canton and also one at Moroso. Both companies seemed willing to make a custom oil pan. They would build them to your specifications, just in case anyone is interested.
I'm curious, a wet sump racing oil pan is not rocket science. The current offerings from Aviaid, Kevko and Armando fit between the frame rails, they offer higher capacity (9qt verses 4qt), they have baffles and hinged doors to keep the oil at the pump inlet, they have windage trays and scrapers. What is to be gained by going elsewhere? Do Canton or Moroso offer a new twist?
quote:Originally posted by jimmym:
I have been looking at some oil pans recently. Out side of the current offerings, I spoke with a rep at Canton and also one at Moroso. Both companies seemed willing to make a custom oil pan. They would build them to your specifications, just in case anyone is interested.
Oil pans are old news. You just need to catch up on your reading. Everything you are asking for is now off of the shelf.
There is only one thing I can think of that as far as I know has never appeared in anything but a Chevy version of a pan? That's a 'swing' pick-up.
Canton is right in there with the others as far as the technology goes.
Moroso has circle track pans for Chebies but nothing for Fords besides big open drag race sumps.
The other thing is that Aviaid is no longer top of the heap as far as quality of workmansip.
I have a Canton and an Aviaid. The Canton makes the Aviaid look like a high school shop class project by comparison.
They won't even spring for a nice plating on it?
...and of course the Pantera pan is off all by itself because of the chassis rail configuration but don't worry, the pan builders already figured that out too?
I was looking for a 10 qt pan for a 427 stroker engine that I am having built. Aviaid offers a 7 qt. and Kevko offers an 8 qt. pan. Pantera Performance does offer a 10 qt. but has been selling them in aluminum. I was told that they used to sell one in steel, but haven't sold one in years. They are looking into it for me. I just figured I would let people know of a few more options. The gentleman that I spoke with at Moroso stated that the pan would be built with all extra's and not just a big sump.
Options aren't a bad thing.
Options aren't a bad thing.
quote:Originally posted by jimmym:
I was looking for a 10 qt pan for a 427 stroker engine that I am having built. Aviaid offers a 7 qt. and Kevko offers an 8 qt. pan. Pantera Performance does offer a 10 qt. but has been selling them in aluminum. I was told that they used to sell one in steel, but haven't sold one in years. They are looking into it for me. I just figured I would let people know of a few more options. The gentleman that I spoke with at Moroso stated that the pan would be built with all extra's and not just a big sump.
Options aren't a bad thing.
Correct. I always carry a change of clothes with me wherever I go?
quote:Originally posted by PanteraDoug:quote:Originally posted by jimmym:
I have been looking at some oil pans recently. Out side of the current offerings, I spoke with a rep at Canton and also one at Moroso. Both companies seemed willing to make a custom oil pan. They would build them to your specifications, just in case anyone is interested.
Oil pans are old news. You just need to catch up on your reading. Everything you are asking for is now off of the shelf.
There is only one thing I can think of that as far as I know has never appeared in anything but a Chevy version of a pan? That's a 'swing' pick-up.
Canton is right in there with the others as far as the technology goes.
Moroso has circle track pans for Chebies but nothing for Fords besides big open drag race pan.
I have a Canton and an Aviaid. The Canton makes the Aviaid look like a high school shop class project by comparison.
They won't even spring for a nice plating on it?
...and of course the Pantera pan is off all by itself because of the chassis rail configuration but don't worry, the pan builders already figured that out too?
The reason why I posted this was because of some of the reading I had done. Fitment issues with some of the current offerings and also the quality that was mentioned in the Aviaid pan versus the Canton pan. On an
other Cleveland site one of the engine builders stated that he found the Moroso pans to be very well made and uses them a lot for his engine builds. Again Kevko offers 8 qts, Aviaid offers 7 qts. I did not look into the Armondo pans. Pantera Performance offers a 10 qt. which I ended up purchasing.
Please post pictures of your new pan when you receive it.
Steve
Steve
quote:Originally posted by jimmym:quote:Originally posted by PanteraDoug:quote:Originally posted by jimmym:
I have been looking at some oil pans recently. Out side of the current offerings, I spoke with a rep at Canton and also one at Moroso. Both companies seemed willing to make a custom oil pan. They would build them to your specifications, just in case anyone is interested.
Oil pans are old news. You just need to catch up on your reading. Everything you are asking for is now off of the shelf.
There is only one thing I can think of that as far as I know has never appeared in anything but a Chevy version of a pan? That's a 'swing' pick-up.
Canton is right in there with the others as far as the technology goes.
Moroso has circle track pans for Chebies but nothing for Fords besides big open drag race pan.
I have a Canton and an Aviaid. The Canton makes the Aviaid look like a high school shop class project by comparison.
They won't even spring for a nice plating on it?
...and of course the Pantera pan is off all by itself because of the chassis rail configuration but don't worry, the pan builders already figured that out too?
The reason why I posted this was because of some of the reading I had done. Fitment issues with some of the current offerings and also the quality that was mentioned in the Aviaid pan versus the Canton pan. On an
other Cleveland site one of the engine builders stated that he found the Moroso pans to be very well made and uses them a lot for his engine builds. Again Kevko offers 8 qts, Aviaid offers 7 qts. I did not look into the Armondo pans. Pantera Performance offers a 10 qt. which I ended up purchasing.
I'm using an Aviaid pan, oil cooler, dual oil filers and an oil thermostat set to open at 210 F.
The entire system is 12 quarts.
Big pans on Panteras are problematic. On one hand you need the added capacity and the ability to keep it near the pickup because of the cars handling and cornering capabilities but it is VERY VERY IMPORTANT that the oil reaches normal operating temperature in the engine.
210 to 220 is a nice round number, otherwise you are doing more harm than good.
Thanks for the tip. I appreciate it.