Rear Wheels Leaning In?

quote:

Originally posted by accobra:
So how does this impact the alignment of the rear deck lid ??? Seems that the rear is very flexible if this is the case.

If you go to the Hemipantera website Goran talks about just how weak and flabby the Pantera butt end really is.

quote:

Originally posted by Cyboman:
Charlie,

It was the upper A-arm that pulled out? I thought it was the lower A-arm.

Michael

Oops, sorry you are correct... lower a-arm

I agree with George Pence. Have it measured. Camber angles can be deceiving. I have been working at a brake and alignment shop for the past fifteen years. I trust my eyes, but I trust my levels more. On another note, don't be afraid to run tire pressures close to the max. pressure setting stamped on the tire sidewall. In todays world of low profile tires, its a good practice to keep that sidewall firm and the tread planted on the ground. 1/4 negetive camber, 0 to 1/8 toe in at the rear would be a ideal setting. Thats were I will set mine this weekend.

I drove my Pantera around quite a bit this weekend. Everytime I got out I looked at the rear tires, they had even dirt across them (so did the fronts). Maybe it's just my driveway. I'm still going to check everything over, but I've added it to my 'winter' list as it's not a pressing issue. I'll post what I find.

Michael

Actually DeTom, the right way to adjust the cross member bar is to jack the car up from the center rear so the rear wheels are completely off the ground and hanging. Then expand and tighten the center nuts on the cross member bar until it is snug against both holding brackets on each side. Both sides should be very close to the inside upper wheel wells just beyond the holding brackets.

However, you have to make sure that the cross member bar is actually equal on each side of the mounting area's. I oblonged the holes on each mount that holds the cross member bar so that it would expand where it should be on each side equally givng the rear the equal support it should have on both sides.

Hope that makes sense.....

I learned this lesson from Les Grey and now my rear tires are wearing even across.....

quote:

Originally posted by DeTom:
You guys are on the right track. Few realize that the removable cross member bar in the engine bay helps locate the upper a-arms. To get your rear suspension geomotry right you have to install it with no load on the rear wheels. Do not pre-load the member, but have all the weight off the wheels and then install it. And really crank down hard on the bolts because it will be under load once you lower the car back down. When I did this I gained almost a quarter inch of extra space inside the sidewalls of the engine bay. It is a miracle I tell you!! Imagine just doing something so small making such a huge differance in how the car feels. All you have to do is read this board and the email letter and you pick up on all sorts of cool stuff.

But Coz, mine doesn't have the expansion nut dealy bob. I know the best ones do, but mine didn't come with one.

quote:

Originally posted by Coz:
Actually DeTom, the right way to adjust the cross member bar is to jack the car up from the center rear so the rear wheels are completely off the ground and hanging. Then expand and tighten the center nuts on the cross member bar until it is snug against both holding brackets on each side. Both sides should be very close to the inside upper wheel wells just beyond the holding brackets.

Coz -
If you do as you suggest, aren't you erring too far the *other* way? You shouldn't install the cross member with the chassis loaded, I agree, but I thought I heard you shouldn't install it with it completely UNloaded either. Going by memory, but I thought you should put a jack under the car and lift, but not enough enough to remove all the weight from the wheels. You want them 50% or loaded or so, so that you don't lock everything in an un-natural position - either completely loaded or completely unloaded.

Of course all this is "locker room type" hearsay, and have no idea how much is true...

(on the other hand, perhaps that is why my tires still wear more on the inside and the alignment shop says they can't adjust them any further???)

Charlie,

If your tires are still wearing on the insides, why don't you try totally unloading the rear suspension and reinstalling the camber bar? It may help somewhat.

Michael

quote:

Originally posted by Cyboman:
Charlie,

If your tires are still wearing on the insides, why don't you try totally unloading the rear suspension and reinstalling the camber bar? It may help somewhat.

Michael

Thanks Michael, I may do that next time I change tires. Right now I *need* them to wear on the inside because I rotated my tires and put the more worn part on the outside. I need them to wear so that they are more or less even, then I may try reinstalling the camber bar.

Thanks for the suggestion - I need to do *something* - those tires are getting hard to find!

Charlie,
Not really. When you raise the car totally off the ground, you take most of the loading off the cross member. Adjusting it at that point so it's snug and putting equal pressure on both sides, as long as both sides are even with the placement of the cross member in relation to the inter fender wells. When you lower it back onto the tires is when you are actually fully loading the cross member.

For it to perform as it should, it has to be fully loaded when on the ground.

You would never be able to completely pre-load it with the wheels still on the ground unless you were King Kong. Let alone get the member out or in for that matter.

That's how I was taught to do it....and my tires are wearing evenly.

If your tires are wearing on the inside, my first guess is that your not loading enough and they are collapsing inward.