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I am looking for advice from anyone who has removed the power brake unit from a Mangusta.

Mine has to be rebuilt as it no longer functions.  At 63,000 miles my pads are also only half gone. I will have soft ones made to improve stopping distance also.

Any information will be greatly appreciated.

Thank you very much.

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Hi Dick,

But it is not a power break unit? I am under the impression the only power comes from the drivers foot. Yes I have removed it. A painful processes, done while lying on the floor of the drivers side. To remove the unit, it comes towards the dashboard so there was a lot of wranging to get it out. The green brake hose is still popular and easy to find in the VolksWagen world. ALthough I don't trust that stuff and went with modern soft lines. If you don't want to deal with rebuilding the unit, they can be had new. I think my new one was $375 or so. I can't recall if it's a Girling part or not. One more thing- I had a guy try to weld on some NTP connections to replace the factory slip-on style connections. Do not do that, the heat cooked the seals and I had to scrap that one.

Dick, I don't think there are any special tricks on getting the booster out or decoupling from the master cylinder. Several places rebuild the Bonaldi, which I think was shared with Ferrari 246 and maybe Alfa Giulia. I'd had the Bonaldi on my Ferrari 400i rebuilt in Oregon and was pleased, I think it may have been "Booster Dewey" (and very affordable, and I was happy with the plating). Mr. Fiat and Apple Hydraulics also service this.

  I also replaced the hard vacuum lines to the booster, the original short line near the engine was in poor shape and I replaced the long line with a stainless.

Master cylinder is from Fiat 130/Ferrari 246, and available at OKP--Lee



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  • Goose Bonaldi booster

Hi Dick, I've only dealt with it in 'optimal' circumstances...windshield out, dash top & dash front removed.  With the glass IN, I'm sure having the dash front removed would make things way easier (if it's even possible leaving it in?)  I took 2 photos this am, of course the problem is how deep the booster sits under the dash, and most fasteners that can't be reached from the bottom.  The toughest connection appears to be the m/c feed line closest to the booster (....maybe it could be left intact when removing the m/c?).  IIRC the booster fitting connection was tighter than Hades and just the hose really didn't want to come off either.

Second shot was taken directly over the m/c to give some sense of perspective! Regards, Nate


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  • Goose 1010 Booser a
  • Goose 1010 Booser b
Last edited by nate

Nate, so tidy there under your dash... To remove the booster, is it just the 3 nuts (plus the bolt at the yoke) accessed the pedal bracket cover? I've forgotten if there is enough to work around without having to undo the lines for the M/C...I got a little too much practice under the dash on the clutch M/C (and for both cars that I've worked on, broke the yoke there on both cars trying to separate it from the clutch shaft...). I don't suppose there is enough room to separate the master and then push out the booster behind it? Lee


Images (1)
  • goose booster

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