I ordered the brakes a couple weeks before x-mas and I had them on my door first week in January… great service.. thank you Scott!! (But you know it takes a village to raise a Pantera.. more people to enter the stage LOL)

Backing up a little - I replaced the booster, brake and clutch master cylinders, proportioning valve, and the brake lines to the front and the first 20 inches to the rear stainless steel.

obviously I ripped the glue in carpet out and fixed the destruction caused by leaking brake fluid from the last 50 years !! After that i glued down 1/8 inch closed cell foam and topped it off with vinyl. Easy to clean and nothing gets underneath!

I found a proportioning valve from Wilwood that has a built Y for the front brakes, master cylinder to left and right caliber and adjustable pressure for the rear! It even has the brake light switch! I have to trace the wires because in the last 50 years someone installed a mechanical switch at the brake pedal… undo that!

Also I want to point out that the hose for be vacuum to the brake booster was very soft because it was soaked in brake fluid for a long time - replaced that too!

Going into the project with full steam (after reading the instructions obviously) jacked up the front of the car, wheels off, calipers and flex line off (kit comes with new steel-braided lines) without the mess because still empty after the brake master… The instructions, talk about that the backing plate has to be trimmed for the new calipers to fit so I test fitted the caliper and  made one nice straight cut! Nothing special or elaborate because I don’t want any small “ear” to vibrate. Break backing plate distance on the bottom, and on the top of about the same to the brake, caliper - easy cut without taking it off, deburred with a file, little paint on the edge. The backing plate acts supposedly as a heat shield to protect the rubber covers over the joints right next to the disc…
Caliper sits center to disc, adapter is perfect, comes with Allen head bolts. After that I put the 15” original wheel on and checked for clearance and it’s  more than 1/4”! All good! Till now…..

Now the bad things I found:

my brake discs are already turns down to 19mm - which is minimum thickness for the rotors! I am sure this was not done because of wear but because of rust! If you look at the rust scaring on the rest to the rotor and being original ( even small DeTomaso logo cast) and 50 years old and a bit over 30k miles . And at some point the disc seems to got clamped into a vice leaving clamp marks on the brake surface and 2 sharp “cuts” on the outside corner above! Also the axle nut were destroyed when they where beaten into the grove of the axle stub for safety. Things I have to address before I move on with the project. I am very surprised that no vendor has original brake discs made for the Pantera….
The new brake pads run at the very edge of the original rotors.. Doing some major cleanup and press the studs out…

Do anyone have source and part# for the wheel bearings NOT China made! SKF or so?

If you need to replace your rotors heres a great option and direct swap with the OEM rotor, but its got some upgrades. Mike Drew got with the people at Centric/Stop Tech and got them to make these for the Pantera Community. For many years owners were trying to find Mustang rotors that allowed the wheel bearing hub to fit on a replacement rotor, some found ones that had the bearing mount directly cast into the rotor while others got items that did not work, it was a nightmare.  These solved all the problems and were improvements over the stock OEM design.

StopTech 125.61053 Premium  High-Carbon Brake Rotor

They are also vented and should work great for what you are doing if your rotors need replacing.

Here's the Amazon listing for these rotors:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/prod...PDKIKX0DER&psc=1

tomsealbeach

Just confirming that those rotors work for front and back on our cars?  Looks like a good deal.  As anyone used them?

No they do not work on the rear, rears are larger, but definitely on the front. I have them and as I mentioned Mike Drew (do you know of Mike?) worked with Centric/Stop Tech to build these for our cars because so many owners could not find replacement rotors.  Mike has them his GF's car and also Chuck Engles has them. There are a fair number of other owners, I just can't name them. There is discussion back in 2017-2019 on the detomasolist about these rotors. Here's a snippet from that discussion:  "Centric offers a dizzying array of options, starting with a plain, standard OEM-style Mustang rotor, all the way to a cross-drilled, slotted, cryogenically treated rotor (slotting makes them handed, with different part number for left and right)".

I spent a bunch of time trying to find the slotted, and cross drilled versions and was unsuccessful. When I bought these rotors I paid about $50 a piece.  I spoke directly with the support people at Centric/StopTech and they could not direct me to the cross drilled or slotted versions, so I just got the standard surface, but they are vented and a fair improvement over the OEM solid rotors.  The part number I posted above is the only one I could find.

Here is a picture of the slotted vented rotor that Mike put on his girlfriends car.

Great…. I give it a shot!

I ordered  (that’s the beauty with Amazon, if it doesn’t fit, just return it)

StopTech 125.61053 Premium  High-Carbon Brake Rotors

I’m just asking myself why on their websites they do not list any products for the Pantera…. And on Amazon, there are no dimensions …

just spoke to customer support and they don’t know anything about it.

The part number / rotor is generic for Ford mustang, falcon, comet, and such

I keep my fingers crossed. Maybe I got lucky!

Found these dimensions. There are other places that offer these for sale that do show the dimensions.

Well, we find out soon… supposedly arriving on the 17th…

Till then I go for the rear brakes

(I wonder what surprise is waiting for me)

I do not believe that these are the exact rotors that Mike Drew ordered. I used these on the front of my car and found that the OD was too large. I had to machine them down to fit the stock calipers. Once I machined them down, I sent them out to be rebalanced since the balancing is done by removing material on the outer diameter of the rotor. That said they probably will work on the rear and may or may not clear the WilWood calipers on the front. One thing to note is that the holes for the wheel studs are not sized for our metric studs. The holes need to be bored out a little to fit, ~17mm as I remember.

…..and the plot is thickening….

Maybe I missed this at the beginning but the SAAC system was designed to be used with stock rotors?  Or are there modifications to make them work?

I bought some from Rockauto, it's Centric reference 125.61053 and designated for "1966 FORD MUSTANG 3.3L 200cid L6". They mount in place of OEM discs without any modification. I paid $34.60 per unit for them in 2019.

Yes the Sacc calipers in this tread is designed for stock rotors, but the six piston calipers can be adapted to larger rotors by repositioning the caliper with a slightly different adapter.  These calipers should have no problem working on the rotor I posted above, its just redesigned slightly with venting, and much better metal than our stock rotors.   

Rene Rock Auto still has them. $49

Thats a great deal.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/mo...61dJYwDRG5IhTA%3D%3D

Tsolo, below is the email I got from Mike Drew. Not sure what else to say.

Note that this is a direct bolt-on replacement for the stock solid front rotor, using the stock Pantera hub and studs. It is microscopically larger in diameter and has nominally the same rotor thickness but the offset is different by a few thousandths of an inch. However, the stock Pantera design features a goof which required them to correct the mistake with a shim between caliper and spindle to center the caliper over the stock disc. By happy coincidence the change in offset is exactly rectified by simply leaving the bandaid shim out.

I believe the part number to order the disc above would be 125-61053CSR and 125-61053CSL for right and left sides, respectively. They might have to be custom-ordered with the slotting as I had to do, but the plain non-cryo non-slotted rotor is readily available with the basic 125-61053 number.

As for pressing the studs in? You didn’t have to pay to have them pressed in. Just assemble the studs, rotor and hub assembly as much as you can, then get open metric nuts of the appropriate size, and some washers.  Install the washers and torque the nuts to 80 ft/lbs. This will draw the studs in until they fully seat.

You could also accomplish this simply by bolting on a wheel and torquing the lug nuts.

Mike

These are the rotors I purchased.

@marlinjack the $2400 got me four 6 piston calipers (different bore front/rear) and separate parking brake calipers! The brake master is 1”  or a bit more (1/16 or 1/8). The original front brakes supposedly are not bad but got dialed down because of the inadequate rear brakes…. So with the proportioning valve now in the rear circuit I think the brakes should work quite well. I’m not putting the car on the track, I’m just a “spirited” driver and would just hate to run out of brakes while knowing the issues beforehand. Also a better parking brake would be nice and if the front discs I just ordered are workable-GREAT! I wanted to keep the original rims because I love the look! The car reminds me so much of the Maserati Bora I drove for a while

I bought this car #4679 just a few months ago and drove it for one mile and put it in the garage and start getting over the car… 30k miles in 50 years is just bad (80 miles in the last 8 years) for everything!
electric switches, electric motors, engine, transmission, gas tank, cooling system…absolutely everything… And I go through everything! And more… like moving the gas filler to the outside…..

not trying to do a restoration. I try to get all done say by end of February and I’m one happy camper !

Here are some pictures to prove my point. Take it for what you will. LeMans850i can confirm when he receives his rotors.

Note the manufacturers dimensions above  

Here is the stock front rotor from my ‘74.Here is the 125-61053 after I turned the OD down.

Here is the stock rotor hub diameter.

Here is the hub diameter of the 125.61053. Note it is oversized compared to the original. The rotors will be stud centric.

Here I measure the stud hole on the 125-61053 after it has been machined to fit the stock wheel stud with a bore gage.

Here is the bore gage in the caliper.

Here is the factory stud shoulder measurement.

From these pictures you can see that I had to take 5mm off of the OD of the rotor. Without this the rotor dragged on the under side of the caliper. And, the factory stud will not register into the rotor unless the stud holes are opened up to 17mm.

Another issue is the thickness of the rotor flange. The stock flange is 9.2mm while the 125-61053 flange measures 7.75mm. The factory studs require a 1.5mm washer under them so that they do not protrude too far through the axle flange. If they do you could have an issue tightening your wheels because your lug nuts could run out of thread and bottom out.

I put a lot of time into this. If you don’t believe me, by all means feel free to try this yourself.

Steve