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OK, here goes. Why I need to complicate my life more is beyond me. My shrink probably has a medication for this. It's probably at hand because she predicted this. I wonder if treatment will entail naked shock treatment?
Bearing in mind Professor Pence's suggestion of setting optimum initial distributor timing with carburetors, how do I do the same for IR FI?
I can set the Redlice ECU at any idle rpm but since I am running with the Motorcraft distributor and box, the distributor needs to be set.
Other then using a timing light(that's much to logical and simple for me, I need to do it the Space Odessy way of course) how do I derive it?
I must be a sick bastard into self torture. Why am I doing this? And DT, don't tell me I need to build my own modular, 12,000rpm engine, ok? Please?
For those of you contemplating this change of life, the IR FI is only simple if you use the manufacturers "basic program", plug it in and run it.
That is much too simple for a masacist like me. I need pain and heartache.
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I wasn't gonna tell you something high teck like that. In fact if you remember right, I was the one who said for guys like you and me, old school to the core, the Hilborn mechanical fuel injection was the way to go. That way you change injector nozzle size and that is about all you can do. Runs like crap?? so what?? It goes like a striped ass ape at full throttle.
Doug,

I assume the engine management electronics you are using has no way to control the idle speed, and that the idle speed is set with a butterfly stop screw, just like a carburetor. If I'm wrong, ignore the following.

Monitor what vacuum signal is available to you, plumbing a "canister" between manifold & vacuum gage will even out pulses, provide more of an average reading. Twist the distributor to provide highest vacuum signal. Readjust the idle on 2, 4 or 8 throttle bodies, depending upon the configuration (equalize vacuum, or equalize airflow).

Return to sleeping on your bed of nails.

your friend on the DTBB
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