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I hear so many versions of how the slave should be adjusted, and not sure if it is entirely correct the way I have it now. I have been told to screw the bolt upwards on the eye screw toward the slave rubber, and keep screwing up until the arm just slightly moves. Then start adjusting the play of the arm by turning the small screw so that you achineve the required play. Using this method, I have screwed the bolt on the eye screw way up on the slave eye bolt so that there is now about 10 threads visible on the eye bolt.

I could have achieved the same final play by leaving the eye bolt way down toward the eye, and adjusting all the play entirely with the small screw on the arm.

Does either method really matter? The same gap is achieved either way?

Also, why does it matter to have such a fine gap adjustment anyway? Shouldn't you just have the car running, go to the rear, then pull back on the arm with your hand until you feel the arm start to rub on the throw out, and then set just to this point?
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200, I adjusted mine the same way. I screwed the "bolt" all the way into the rubber until I could not even grasp it any more!(I will have to take the trunk out to measure the lenght of threads and get back to you). But there was still 1/8" play when pulling back against the return spring to the point that it contacted the throw-out bearing, as you said. Before this, (about 1/4 inch less thread showing) The shifting was a little "catchy" going into gear. NOW it shifts very smooth, slides right in! Regards, Marlin.
As you say, there are many ways to get to the same endpoint. I suggest that after you've adjusted, you have a friend push the clutch pedal flat to the floor while you stick a feeler gauge through the hole in the bellhousing, down between flywheel & clutch disc. If you cannot get a 0.020" feeler in between the flywheel & disc, IMHO the clutch is not well adjusted. That means you have less than 0.010" between the two sides of the clutch disc, and there will be significant drag on the trans synchros each time you shift. Synchros wear, also wearing the mating gear. A single synchro & gear replacement is around $1000.....
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