I am seeking a source for the Pantera's parking brake cable housings

Hi Jerry,  mine is just the opposite. My inner cable is no good but the housing is ok.

pm me with your address and I will give the parts to you, you just pay the shipping charge.    I will send it FedEx but they need an actual address to ship to, to calculate the charge.   Let me know and I will box them up and get a price for you from FedEx.

Steve

Thanks Steve. I will take you up on your kind offer, I will try and pay it forward   PM sent .

JerrySr

Do you have means of removing and replacing the stops crimped (?) onto the ends of the cable itself?

I have used heat shrink insulation on lesser cable sheath problems. Mostly on motorcycle controls. Works well.

Hi, no sorry, I don't. I am sure that there are cable places around that will do it or maybe even a hydraulic place. You should only need to do one end as the other end will fit through the bracket. I have a shipping cost if you want to proceed. To ship to you will be approx. $26. US should you wish to proceed. Both cables and ends. Let me know. Thanks, Steve

Yes Steve  PM  me where/how to pay. 

Larry my cables are stripped to components already,  parts blasted and preped.  Pretty simple process really .  If anyone thinks it would be handy info .I will post it .  I thought of doubled up on shrink wrap but 6ft X 4 of realy thick shrink wrap may have cost more than aftermarket casings  lol 

Decided to Update my post and give the detail on the stop removal.  Actually the stops are not crimped, they are brazed on the cable. The pointed tip is a build up of braze on the tip of exposed cable.

No special tools needed. 10 min for one end. (All that is needed to thread the cable out. )   I'm sure compatible aftermarket brake cable components are available somewhere. 

I used a torch the melt off much of the braze at the tip only (a step that wasn't needed, I could have just ground down the braze and tip of cable flush with the stop or done it after cutting the stop off,  less chance of damaging the stainless cable with heat

Tape the cable close to the stop so it doesn't unravel,   

Cut the stop off the cable with a cutoff wheel - very close to the stop, ground the cable flat and close to the stop. You only lose 1inch of cable 

Dropped the stop in a small 1/4 drive socket as a holder so it is stable for the next step

Small center punch , punched out the center strands of the stainless cable ( remaining braze is very soft) , then used an appropriate drift punch the punch out the remaining strands. Then reamed out the hole by hand with a drill bit held in a vise. 

Reassembly; I will possibly slide it on and tap it with a hammer beforehand to crimp it just before a  spot of braze.  

Hope this helps someone to salvage cables or assist with detail refinishing the hardware. 

Jerry Sr

 Or, instead of cobbling together just a ‘better’ functioning assembly comprised of 45-year-old parts, you could purchase the entire assembly in new condition and get it to your door for about $200.  🤔

Larry 

Where's the fun in that?

Rocky

Isn't that our "modus operendi" - make everything as complicated and labor intensive as possible?

 

(And to the OP)…  I applaud you for describing your process.  It will help someone some day, although I went the heat-shrink route for a couple short runs (~1 1/2') with cracking that I had..... 

 

 

Cobbling is a little harsh . I like to think of it as renovating lol.  If you can't tell it was done and it performs the original purpose it seems like a win to me. I'm not sure but who wouldn't disassembe a relay to file the points? Clean contacts on a fuse box? (There only a couple $$). Take and hour and $30 to save $200 worth of cables

Differnt strokes I guess. 

$200 cables would still leave under powered rear brakes, unless I install upraded calipers which leaves me with no parking brake  Unless l reuse the original 2 pistons calipers for parking brakes or install secondary parking brake calipers, while I'm at it I may as well relocate the parking brake to a removable crossmember (getting done) install drilled and slotted outboard mounted  rotors., Machine or change the uprights for upgraded rear bearings  , Crap I forgot about the front rotors caliper, upgraded master cylinder, removal of proportioning valve (getting done ). Upgrade to complete stainless hard lines (getting done) and braided hoses (getting done ) . Upgrade to Rs4 pads. (getting done)  much of that would be over kill the car will never be raced , maybe 

So you can see my cobble job isn't very well thought out considering the vehicle is on a rotisserie with about 60 boxes of parts , major and minor components that are all getting re-inspected and tweaked a second time.

I can always revisit the brake cable, an externally mounted part that would require maybe 20 min to replace,  if there was complicated teardown or if it effected safety or reliability I would certainly replace new. 

Just trying to make the point that (my) restoration is a process of weighing out choices and not just throwing money at it and great therapy at the same time. 

I work on/around vehicles every day and have for 43 years (so long that I forgot what I forgot) , repairing/rebuilding is not usually an option, almost everything now is designed disposable (for economic or time factors)  Calipers, rotors, struts, window motors and regulators, almost no electrical part is repairable (I could go on and on) designed to be or are the parts readily available to do so. 

I enjoy the fact that so many of the components and parts on Pantera's can be reconditioned to function as original or better without just throwing parts away, it can be challenging but I didn't buy a ready made late model thinking installing a cold air intake is a big upgrade, It is after all a Pantera. The learning curve is straightening out a little, thanks to many who post on his site and others

I have had delivery's  of Pantera parts daily for months I can't wait till that stops lol.   A $200 set of cables wouldn't kill my wallet just my pride.  

Respectfully .Jerry Sr.