I drive my car every day and have been driving it about 18 years. My car has done this 3 times during that time period, once it was my ignition switch ( Thank you SOB/Sweet Ol Bill!) and twice it was my MSD module. Good luck w it!
Yup on both but USUALLY with both it is a starting issue.
Fans ran for the 30 miles?
Yes, PIM set it up so fans come on when I turn the key to acc... or at least one fan I think.
So there is a fan running constantly! Why ??????
He said that’s how he’s always set up all the cars they do.
Why did PIM connect your fans so one comes on when the key is turned to ACC? Are you OK with that? Do the fans (or the fan) turn off when you're cranking the starter? My feeling is, no fans should turn on until the engine is running. You shouldn't have a rad fan on when you're cranking the starter. The fan just draws a bunch of current away from where it's needed. You might be able to get away with it, with stock fans but not with high amp draw aftermarket fans.
Also, both of your rad fans should be thermostatically controlled. What possible reason could there be to leave one fan on all the time? Will your car overheat if you don't? Ridiculous.
You now have an intermittent electrical issue that started immediately after PIM worked on your electrical system. Coincidence? Possibly but not likely.
My 2 cents!
When you say lost all power does that mean everything, lights, radio, heater etc or just power for the run circuit i.e. gauges?
Everything. No accessories, windows, etc.
look at your connections to the ammeter and also the connections to the ignition switch for signs of heat. The switch itself could also be the problem.
As Marlin Jack and others have said, GROUND, GROUNG GROUND. Check all the ground connections from the battery to chassis and chassis to everything else. I had a headlight issue with a limit switch. I would pass the contenuity test but failed to work. Once I replaced it the issue went away.
Ken
I will also add that grounds are the root of all evil. I also never run my fans while in motion, my car runs about 184/186 and I only need my fans if stuck in traffic (Florida). Your oil must be 159 at minimum so you def need some heat.
I personally don't think anyone should be on an amp gauge anymore.
P.S... The only reason I mention my experience is to add a data point and to illustrate that this car is a good car. I stretch the throttle cable every time I drive it, it has all the updates and it's a very good and reliable car. Granted, I just drive into town and back most days, but still, it's treated me very well.
Let’s not lose sight of the fact, this problem arose immediately after a vendor (PIM) did some electrical work on the car, including connecting one of the cooling fans to the ACC position of the ignition switch (???). It’s highly unlikely this problem has nothing to do with the work that was done. They were paid to do the work and they did something wrong. They should stand behind their work and fix it.
Once this matter has been resolved, I highly recommend the Pantera Electronics cooling fan controller. Your fans will turn on when needed but only when they’re needed! Also, their controller uses PWM to control fan speed, so they only spin as quickly as they need to.
Pantera Electronics fan controller and/or any of Jon's products.
I'm going to contact PIM today about this, but I'm not holding my breath that they will fix this for free.
I do have the PE updated fuse board and really like it. I have a friend who's going to help me get the fans wired so they don't start up on ignition too, even though that's not the culprit it might help.
If ALL power goes out, investigate for a circuit breaker that resets itself, like an "all car" fuse would.
@Riley posted:Everything. No accessories, windows, etc.
What about lights? Accessories and windows are fed through the ignition switch. If no lights also then look into main power connections, if lights still work (note that headlights will not open without accessory power so check tail lights) then most likely the ignition switch or connections at the terminal strip at the switch.
If you still have the original ammeter, check the connections.
If the ammeter has been removed, check the wire splice (the two wires that originally connected to the ammeter will be spliced together).
Check the battery terminal connections and the battery ground wire where it connects to the body in the front trunk.
John
...I agree with Panteradoug and JB1490...could be a Isolating Circuit Breaker, for ALL Systems. And, Who Installed the Custom 'Fuse Block', that is suspect, could be one or two wires Not connected correctly. I, also, had the problem with the AMP Gauge, 'Very' Loose connections!! Long since, removed, Cables spliced Together with a Bolt!, Shrink-tubed with INDUSTRIAL/Thicker Shrink Tubing, Two Layers...and a VOLT Gauge added. You need to Learn HOW to Use the VOM. Check ALL Grounds, Including the 6-8 wires, To a Stud, just above Your left Knee, under the dash. And check the Ground to the chassis, AT the Battery, as others have suggested!!. The Ignition SWITCH, could be 'Shorting-out', usually Burned-Out, Internally!!!
I still think the 'One' Fan was wired to the Ignition Circuit!! Check that 'White' Junction Block just above the Steering Column! That would also mean...the ignition, Also, was wired to the ACC position of the Ign. Switch.
...Get out the Volt Meter and start Investigating!
Good Luck!
MJ
P.S. Just a Thought, what about the 'Major' Ground strap going from the Chassis to the TAIL of the ZF Gearbox?? That 'Woven' Thing is always seen corroded and Rotting! That strap is the ONLY Link Grounding the Engine to the Battery, through the Chassis. And Last, the Headlights DO NOT work when the Ignition Switch is TURNED-OFF!!
I beg to differ, headlights work with ignition off but they will not raise or lower.