It looks like DB doesn't carry a starter for our application any more. Any suggestions?
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Husker are you saying you need a starter? If so, we've been using the PMGR starter, I buy ten at a time, 35 bucks each with discount. They sell retail for 65-155.00 under various guises.The advantage to late-model PMGR starters is the planetary gear-reduction system that multiplies torque while being entirely in line with the armature shaft. Easy fit, never a problem. PMGR has two part numbers, SFD0001 & 3205. I can ship you one if you need. Sharkey
Sharkey, That sounds great. PM me with details.
Powermaster also has a gear reduction starter #9504. Pricier than others, but a good solid unit.
https://www.summitracing.com/oh/parts/pwm-9504
https://www.summitracing.com/oh/parts/pwm-9504
After having several DB starter housings fail for no apparent reason, I switched to using the Powermaster 9504 (as Dave mentioned)and have been more than happy. MUCH higher quality starter and well worth the extra money.
Ron
Ron
Dear Ron,
I am ignorant about the difference between "starter failure" and "starter housing failure". For an amateur enthusiast, "starter failure" is anytime the starter does not start the engine, obviously. "Starter housing failure" means that the starter didn't start because the physical housing cracked or failed ? Could you explain.
Warmest regards, Chuck Engles (who happens to own one or two DB starters.....)
I am ignorant about the difference between "starter failure" and "starter housing failure". For an amateur enthusiast, "starter failure" is anytime the starter does not start the engine, obviously. "Starter housing failure" means that the starter didn't start because the physical housing cracked or failed ? Could you explain.
Warmest regards, Chuck Engles (who happens to own one or two DB starters.....)
I'm quite sure that it is a mistake in the listings not to show the 351c starter as the same as the other Ford small block starters?
The only difference would be an automatic transmission vs. a manual transmission.
The mini starters are essentially all Nissan truck starters with various noses and gears to match the applications.
Yes you can save a few pounds by using them but who cares on a street car?
I'm using an Accell "Mega Tork". It is the same size and weight of the original Ford starters.
Other than the weight differences I don't see a large benefit to either style. You certainly do not need them for header clearance.
What some of you may be seeing is an inability of a rebuilt starter to handle the voltage through the original cut down armatures?
That's pretty common. Even a new Ford starter is a high torque starter.
You shouldn't even notice a torque drop from a starter unless you are running a lot of static compression, i.e., a 12:1 cr engine.
That's also a situation where you could overload the original equipment Pantera starter switch. You could even melt the contacts in the thing.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pwm-9103/overview/
The only difference would be an automatic transmission vs. a manual transmission.
The mini starters are essentially all Nissan truck starters with various noses and gears to match the applications.
Yes you can save a few pounds by using them but who cares on a street car?
I'm using an Accell "Mega Tork". It is the same size and weight of the original Ford starters.
Other than the weight differences I don't see a large benefit to either style. You certainly do not need them for header clearance.
What some of you may be seeing is an inability of a rebuilt starter to handle the voltage through the original cut down armatures?
That's pretty common. Even a new Ford starter is a high torque starter.
You shouldn't even notice a torque drop from a starter unless you are running a lot of static compression, i.e., a 12:1 cr engine.
That's also a situation where you could overload the original equipment Pantera starter switch. You could even melt the contacts in the thing.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pwm-9103/overview/
Another minor bit of advice...
When installing a PMGR starter, don't try and just run a 3" short jumper from the main power feed (on the PMGR Solenoid) to the PMGR solenoid "start" lead (on the PMGR).
It is tempting, but if you do this, your new starter will "run on". You need to run the separate wire (provided) all the way back to the bulkhead solenoid control terminal (as shown in the DB Electric Starter ad).
Rocky
When installing a PMGR starter, don't try and just run a 3" short jumper from the main power feed (on the PMGR Solenoid) to the PMGR solenoid "start" lead (on the PMGR).
It is tempting, but if you do this, your new starter will "run on". You need to run the separate wire (provided) all the way back to the bulkhead solenoid control terminal (as shown in the DB Electric Starter ad).
Rocky
quote:Originally posted by C. Engles:
.I am ignorant about the difference between "starter failure" and "starter housing failure". For an amateur enthusiast, "starter failure" is anytime the starter does not start the engine, obviously. "Starter housing failure" means that the starter didn't start because the physical housing cracked or failed ? Could you explain.... .
The aluminum casting broke on my DB starter, that is the reason I went to the Powermaster. You get what you pay for.
quote:Originally posted by C. Engles:
Dear Ron,
I am ignorant about the difference between "starter failure" and "starter housing failure". For an amateur enthusiast, "starter failure" is anytime the starter does not start the engine, obviously. "Starter housing failure" means that the starter didn't start because the physical housing cracked or failed ? Could you explain.
Warmest regards, Chuck Engles (who happens to own one or two DB starters.....)
That's exactly right Chuck. The aluminum alloy that DB uses to cast their starter noses is not the same as what is used in the production of the OEM Ford starter nose. They are very brittle.
The Powermaster starter uses a billet aluminum nose.
Ron
Chuck, I've broken cast aluminum starter noses with only a slight backfire (Weber carbs & too much initial advance). Watch your initial ignition timing with them! Most mini-starters using the Nissen 300ZX body are billet since they adapt the starter. My Mcleod mini-starter is now 20+ yrs old and has given good service and zero trouble. Also had a Mcleod on Judy's Z-28 commuter until it was sold, also with no trouble.
Ron, Did you need any shims?
quote:Originally posted by Husker:
Ron, Did you need any shims?
Are you referring to the shim between the nose and the starter motor that comes with the Powermaster starter? I always measure the particular car and adjust accordingly . The shim is not usually needed.
Ron
Ron, Yes, that was what I was referring to. I'll measure it just to make sure.