I picked up a '71 4V "virgin"engine this weekend. Complete from oil pan to air cleaner. Its got a D0AE block and D1AE heads. Everything looks in order for an engine that has only recently had the intake and 1 head taken off. The bores and pistons look good, at least no gouges or cracks. You can even see the cross hatch marks on the big ends of the rods. I dont see any marks on the crankshaft itself. All bearings have ford part numbers with no oversize stampings. All good so far. When I started disassembly it smelled more and more like "burnt" oil. Upon closer inspection of the bearings, cam spocket and cam I think know the reason for the smell. 2 or 3 of the main bearings have 1 or 2 gouges on the bottom halves and the rod bearings are showing a lot of copper especially #4 but none look good. The cam sprocket was tying to loose 7 or 8 teeth and the chain was almost falling off it was so loose. The cam lobes are very worn and most of the lifters are concave to the eye.
Is there a smoking gun or should I carry on with getting the block and heads checked for cracks and sonic check the cylinders?
I'll see if i can upload some pics but you get the gist.
Never an oil change or just par for the course?
Original Post
sounds normal to me, the burnt small coming out of it as you tear it down is probably from the musty oil threads turning after almost 50 years and generating a tiny bit of heat creating the odor. almost like hypoid gear lube?


sounds like it was stored at just the right time before the timing sprocket let loose & trashed the whole deal otherwise all you're describing is normal wear.

definitely carry on, the sonic check should be interesting being a D0 block,

D0AE- what's the dash letter?

other codes to look for the cylinder head casting date code in the corner under the valve cover area and the engine assy build date code hand stamped into the front face of the block near the timing pointer
Yes, now that you mention it, it does smell like a rear end (pun intended). I just thought from the condition of the bearings and other internals that it was creating a hot condition where the oil was breaking down and loosing its ability to lubricate.
Block D0AE-L OH28 Aug 28, 1970
Heads D1AE 0J19/0J24
Hand stamp on block rail beside oil pump 91170
yup looks like it was a good time to take it apart and fresh it up

the number 91170 on the pan rail i'm not familiar with, seen them before in pics but IDK exactly what the number in that location represents? odd that if taken literally as a date September 11, 1970 that predates the cylinder head casting dates by about 10 days - 2 weeks. i wonder if it could be a cylinder block machining date?

nothing hand stamped in the front face of the block near the timing pointer?

what's the refresh plan?
1st step will be to find a shop to check out the block then machine using blueprinting fixture. No matter what anyone says to the contrary, after seeing the condition of the bearings I will intall lifter bore bushings. After that follow the plan laid out in sticky #3
can't argue with that plan

my 1st thought was to suggest a shop in Tacoma but they don't have the BHJ fixture, next stop that i know can do the work is in Fairmont MN and Tim can arrange shipping

on another note, are you going to keep/save the stock crank timing gear?
No plans to keep/save the stock crank timing sprocket as the chain has worn into the teeth on that as well. Its just a conversation piece now.
T Meyer did send out a note inquiring if people were interested in a CNC block service. I emailed him a while back and asked about it but they were not in a position with all the Track Boss machine work at the time.
I'm sure I'll be able to locate someone in the Pacific NW
the key slot location on the stock gear is unique, stock replacement sets may not have the same orientation as the pre-smog retarded cam timing crank sprocket. that little bit of wear is nothing compared to the difference retarded timing will make. you can't get that gear anywhere anymore noway nohow

Scott at Parkland Performance Auto Machine ( http://reincarnation-automotive.com/ ) suggested an outfit in St Louis MO but MN would be a little closer to you. the fixture is called the BHJ Lifter Tru, not a lot of shops have the tooling. check out this vid where Tim shows the factory machining error with a light kiss of the cutter in the lifter bores https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BqoHPKGghO0

there's also the Wydendorf lifter bore reamer kit shown in this vid, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fxekDALMHME which has been criticized for reamer speed etc but i can tell you it's not for the faint of heart (literally) to do yourself. it's hard work!

good luck but i'm not sure you're going to find another shop with the BHJ fixture and the correct plates for 351C because Windsor lifters are on a different angle
I wasn't planning on using a stock style replacement set. George has made recommendations in the sticky.
Ive collected a lot of parts but getting to the point where the block needs work before anything else big gets purchased.
Here's what Ive got so far
the above mentioned complete engine
D1ZX balancer rebuilt by Damper Dudes
Another set of D1AE heads that have already been magnafluxed
Bronze manganese valve guides
SS valves
PAC 1900 springs
retainers, locks +.05, spring seats, valve stem seals
Scorpion 3224 rocker arms
Blue Thunder intake
Demon 750 vac secondary w/annular boosters
Bullet "Cobra Jet" hydraulic cam w/lifters
Duraspark distributor w/ Duraspark I module coil and wiring harness.
So you can see other than misc.hardware my next step should be getting the block and crank ready.
Then I can decide on which way to go with rods, pistons, bearings, head work, pushrods then balancing.
I noticed another hand stamping on the block pan rail near the 91170 stamp. It is +49 inside an oval. I wonder what that means?

Add Reply

Likes (0)