Wilwood MC Question

Hi John -

I have the same SACC Master and Proportioning valve setup as you do, although my brake booster was modified to be able to directly mount the master cylinder, instead of using the aluminum block spacer that many cars use to reconfigure the MC mounting bolt pattern.

Anyway - I had to use the plastic spacers to get the right alignment on the hardlines from the MC to the proportioning valve.

I have about 2 threads protruding from the nuts.

I am don't have the same configuration as you do, but it seems to me the problem is that the bolts on your spacer are shorter than what are protruding from my booster.

Would it be possible to get new (longer) studs to mount in the spacer block?  Two threads doesn't seem like enough engagement....  You wouldn't want that MC to come loose in a hard stop.

Rocky (a.k.a. Chuck)

Hi Chuck,

Thanks for the pics and info.

Scott had mentioned longer studs might be the way to go too.  They have red Loctite holding them in place so will probably have heat the bolts to get them out.

I will give it a try today.

Thanks,

John

Maybe I'm having a senior moment, but from the photos they appear to be just standoffs for the nuts and serve no purpose whatsoever.

The spacer is used to align the prop valve with the brake lines in the kit.

The aluminum spacer between the MC and booster causes the engagement issue.

Looks like the best way is to use a longer stud as everyone suggested.  Hopefully there is enough room to double nut the stud and remove it.

Thanks,

John

Actually, a more simple way to do it may be to replace the plastic spacers with thinner jamb nuts that are the same thicknesses as the spacers…

You may have to grind some nuts down a little if you can’t get the right thickness…

Why not just remove the studs and use cap screws?

I ended up cutting a 3" bolt down to 2.125" and using it as a stud.  Should be much safer now.

Thanks for the recommendations.

John

#2551

My brake master is starting to fail & looking at this upgrade since I already have the 4 piston Wilwood kit installed. Which Wilwood Master and Proportioning valve setup kit did you go with, the 1" bore. Is this the right one?     

Wilwood Disc Brakes - Master Cylinders Description

Did you also just remove the factory shuttle & proportioning valves?

Any pics showing it all installed?

Thanks,

John

@trstno1 - I have a Brand New Wilwood Master Cylinder that I would sell to you if interested.  My is the Compact Master Cylinder.  I can get you the part number.

Do you run hardlines? If so… there’s really no need for the bracket for the proportioning valve! The two short stainless steel lines coming from the master, hold it up just fine…

just saw the dates… I’m way late for the party…

Thanks guys,

I ended up talking to Scott at SACC. Although he doesn't sell them anymore, he was super helpful & gave me all the Wilwood part #'s & tips on install. This is what I ended up ordering.

Wilwood Tandem Master Cylinder 1" bore

• 260-8555-BK

Wilwood proportional valve w/ right side bracket

• 260-15048

  Ipsco Master cylinder to brake booster adapter

  With this set-up I'll remove the original proportioning & shuttle valves & run all new SS lines.

  I will probably also replace or have booster rebuilt to look new as well. I'll also take the time to clean up the front trunk area. The old felt carpet is already removed, just need to decide on just painting it or installing new carpet as well.

I and others have used ABS Power Brake, Inc to rebuild and refinish the booster.  It took about two weeks to get mine rebuilt.  I did have to call them a couple of times to get an update, since I was in a bit of a hurry.

I would recommend them.

ABS Power Brake Inc.

233 N. Lemon St.

Orange, CA 92886

(714) 771-6549

Regards,
John

@trstno1 posted:

Thanks guys,

I ended up talking to Scott at SACC. Although he doesn't sell them anymore, he was super helpful & gave me all the Wilwood part #'s & tips on install. This is what I ended up ordering.

Wilwood Tandem Master Cylinder 1" bore

• 260-8555-BK

Wilwood proportional valve w/ right side bracket

• 260-15048

  Ipsco Master cylinder to brake booster adapter

  With this set-up I'll remove the original proportioning & shuttle valves & run all new SS lines.

  I will probably also replace or have booster rebuilt to look new as well. I'll also take the time to clean up the front trunk area. The old felt carpet is already removed, just need to decide on just painting it or installing new carpet as well.

After I fixed all the paint damage from 50 years of brake fluid, eating away on the paint, I glued 1/8 inch thick closed cell foam and then vinyl on top! This way, if you have a leak, you can wipe it off and neutralize with water!

and you can see if you have a leak because it doesn’t just soak into the carpet…