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...I have a 1.005" REAR Anti-Sway Bar Gloss Black Powder-Coated? NEW, Never Installed, Solid and Heavy. Probably best, belongs on a Race Track. Except 'They' use Hollow Bars for weight savings.

Includes NEW, (4) 1" Red Urethane Bushings and (4) Gold Anodized Steel Brackets. I had to Hunt These Down. They were near Impossible to Find, and are NO Longer Available! Sitting here Now, Ready for the Next Proud Owner!

Ready to Mount NOW!

A Beautiful piece of Hardware to add to Your Pantera. To be Seen Only by all The Drivers You Leave Behind. Sure to Start a Conversation and Controversy!

For a 'Show Car'...Perfect!

Listed on Ebay for $199. Plus Shipping

Last edited by marlinjack

...Yes! The bushings WILL Fit into the Milled Bracket, as the Inside Diameter of the Bracket, Itself,  Is the Same! You still Need These 1" Bushings.

Don't know who made it...purchased it from 'Hall Pantera' a few years back.

Thanks for Asking. Yes I'am in Manteca.

Pick-up No Problem.

Working on photos.

DSC00054DSC00055DSC00056DSC00057...The Steel Brackets are 0.160" Thick. Notice that this Rear Bar has (2) 'Stops' welded on each side of Center, to keep the Bar Centered and from 'walking' Laterally.  Your can see the Shine on what looks to be Powder-Coating. These Brackets are the same size and shape as the Originals, Seem to be a little Thicker,  So I Know the Bar will fit Your Mounting Blocks. The Elongated Holes will Match Most All Bolt Spacing.


Images (4)
  • DSC00054
  • DSC00055
  • DSC00056
  • DSC00057
Last edited by marlinjack

Marlin, thank you for dragging the bar out for pictures. After doing some reading I think I'm going to go with GTS size bars and spherical ends. If you're still lightening flywheels and oilite pilot bearings, I'll be hitting you up when I pull the engine to reseal's been sitting for a decade with lots of STA-BIL in the tank.

There are a couple of 'gotchas' with 1" swaybars. First, solid bars are stiff enough that the steel frame crossmember on the rear of some cars will flex along with the bars! We tried a 1" bar on Judy's street car and a GR-4 clone w/10" & 13" wide wheels & tires, on a skid pad many years ago. The 0.865" OD GTS rear bar actually worked better on both. So you don't get the full effect such a big solid bar should give, and if you drive hard, the big bar over time may actually crack spot-welds or the 10mm holding studs.

As Marlin said, hollow bars are less than half the wt of solid bars. A hollow 1" bar made of 4130 x 0.120" wall tubing is also 32% less stiff than a solid 1" bar, and apparently does not quite flex the stock spot-welded Pantera rear frame. Seam-welding the whole rear subframe is a good idea and cures the flex problem. Hollow bars also have problems; welding limiter washers on WILL eventually crack high-carbon bars at the welds- even tack-welds. Use clamp-on limiters with all hollow bars. McMasters catalogue carries such things, or they are easy to make from scratch. I made a set of hollow 4130 bars for our car in 2007 with clamp-on limiters & everything is still working fine. Note with custom bars front or rear, if they don't fit perfectly on your car, try swapping the bar end-for-end. Many Pantera subframes are now asymmetric after 45+ years of hard driving, and a custom bar (which itself may not be perfect) might fit better one way than the other.

Using polyurethane bushings  on the ends of big bars may crack the welded clamp piece on stock lower a-arms, as poly does not have enough 'give'. Instead, use stock rubber or (better) sphere-balls on the outer ends of ALL Pantera swaybars. Poly works fine in the centers as pivot bushings but are just too stiff for the ends of either front or rear bars. With sphere-balls you can actually feel them working! All this stuff- including simple calculations for front & rear swaybar stiffnesses are in a POCA Tech article, dated  Jan 2008 and available on the POCA Website archives.

Just a comment on installing sway bars.  I do note many comments  on the site that some find it easy - some find it difficult to reinstall this rear bar . I have ,in the past ,struggled manfully to align all of the rear sway bar mounting points, and experienced this process taking a frustratingly long time with a risk to damaging capitive bolts and nut threads.

I think I have found a solution that makes it very easy.

Mount the sway bar and mounts on both the a arms loosely with the sway bar roughly aligned horizontally with the rear mount location. Center the retainers and the bar and tighten the nuts on the A arms to about mid way.

Take a couple of large clamps and pull in the rear sway bar and mounts to the rear of the chassis between the mounting bolts as per the photo . Centralise the bar vertically and put on the rear mounting shells . Pull up the rear shell nuts , tighten the A arm bolts to fully tight .

Release the clamps. Done.


Images (2)
  • sway bar clamping 1: Clamps rear view
  • sway bar clamping 2: Inside clamp position

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