how about this? https://race-shop.si/capri/762...ord-capri-to-72.html
At the risk of being Seen as a know-it-all. Have a Look at the Steering column of a Classic porsche 911, the zenit of German over engineering. Splines with no taper, and a c-clip as end Stop for the hub. 140 USD for a hub Adapter ist ridiculous.
I am too lazy to calculate transmittable torque for a 30x16x36T but it is a lot for mild steel. I am more concerend about the strength of the die-cast material of the hub.
@panterapatt posted:how about this? https://race-shop.si/capri/762...ord-capri-to-72.html
Yes, Luisi part number 2703 is correct. It is in fact the one that I offered in a PM to the OP of this thread.
I purchased one of them sometime ago to confirm fitment. Available to anyone for $100, USA shipping included. Just trying to recoup my initial purchase price
The only concern I have with 2703 is the notch to capture the cancel cam. It looks like it will work, but it does differ slightly from the OEM notch and might require a little modification
it has the correct taper and FULLY indexes with the pantera shaft taper
I guess the OP would rather wait on a vendor that will eventually get around to obtaining one. 🤷♂️
Larry
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@panterapatt posted:
That also looks to be correct.
The only way to be sure is to order one and confirm fitment, which is what I did previously with the Luisi 2703
Larry
I will not be charged until the item is shipped of course. I don't know who his supplier or machinist is or even if it is an in-house made item. That's why Jerry is in the business and I'm not. It's all good.
This one:
https://www.tjamauto.com.au/sa...70---1972-87793.html
looks close to the OEM Momo hub.
Here are some photos of the actual Momo unit. BTW, this hub was OEM on all Panteras after DeTomaso stopped using the steering wheel that came on most '71 through '74 cars.
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I have the Wilkinson version on my car. It looks like the picture above but is a fully cast piece and not collapsible like the above hub is. One thing I did not like about it was the clearance between the bottom of the hub and the shroud around the steering column. This seems to be common if you look at pictures of different cars. I fixed that by machining the bottom of the hub down, extending the taper the amount that was removed from the hub, and then milling the slot back in to cancel the turn signals.
Steve
This is a picture of mine installed. ^
I think this one is a sold piece > https://www.amazon.com/Crowder...Sparco/dp/B010C51O8O
Wilkinson's isn't solid? I got mine from him and it is. That's it^
https://panterapartsusa.myshop...=f13b2e21f&_ss=r
That is my adapter. It is solid aluminum and tapered. I don't know the purpose of the taper since it emphasizes the mismatch at the plastic ignition switch enclosure.
I dealt with that by using a leather upholstery edging material. That you can see in the picture. Without the taper, you wouldn't need it.
I am not sure what you two guys are debating about the seating depth of the adapter significance is. The Momo adapter is not made to fit like the original Capri steering wheel did.
I'm not sure what the significance of that stop and washer is on the Pantera shaft and if you ask me, it has nothing to do with the original Pantera application and is something left over from a previous application and not used at all in this instance.
The Momo adapter is installed one way, regardless of the taper built into the shaft. You tighten down the nut and that's it. The nut will only go so far and it is what holds the adapter in place on the splines against whatever amount of taper it will take. It will not seat fully against the entire taper.
The quick release hub from Wilkinson was mentioned above. I have one and I can tell you it is not the same unit currently being sold by Wilkinson. Mine was $500. It is machined out of solid stainless steel billet and will fit any Momo hub.
It is one of the best things I have done to the car. It makes working under the dash much easier and I have never regretted it.
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Here is a question for someone in the know. First off, I just see the adapter being listed for a 70 to 77 Capri.
The term Mk 1, 2, or 3 is not refered too here. Elsewhere, like in the UK, they do.
So I agree that the Pantera steering column seems to derive from the Mk 1, basically because of the dates of manufacture, but with all of this discussion, what is a Mk 2 and Mk 3?
Larry mentioned that he thought the od of the splines on the steering wheel input changes in 1973 on the Capri. After maket listings for the adapter are not indicating that they agree?
So let's make this a simple question, what is a Mk 3? What is the od of the splines and spline pattern and what Capri does that apply to? Phew. Lots of writing for a somewhat simple question that apparently few have the answer to?
Doug,
MK1 is '70 to '72. That is what matches the Pantera's column. A '73 Capri (Mk2) is different. The correct shaft is 9/16" (14mm) - 36 (splines).
Larry, of course you're correct. Excuse my earlier posting that said 14mm. I was thinking of the u-joints in the column.
David,
you flatter me when you say of course I am correct.
it is a difficult challenge to live up to, especially with senior moments becoming more and more common as I become more and more senior. 😉
Larry
@davidnunn posted:Doug,
MK1 is '70 to '72. That is what matches the Pantera's column. A '73 Capri (Mk2) is different. The correct shaft is 9/16" (14mm) - 36 (splines).
David. Not to be argumentative (just confused) There is a Mk1 in the UK in '68. I'm told by a "Brit" that there is an early, '68-70 Mk1 and a later Mk1, and the shafts are different.
He is saying that a Mk3 WILL fit a Mk1, but not a 68-70 Mk1, and that agrees with nothing being said here.
A US marketed Mk1 is 70-72 but the Pantera isn't built here, it is sourced and built in Europe and developed before a 71 model year.
So I'm still confused. I no doubt was born that way and have always been but that still doesn't solve anything.
What I am thinking is, if my UK source is correct, then what we have is the earliest version, which frankly since the thing is cut up and altered to work in a Pantera anyway, the only important data is that the input and outputs match?
I need to be careful with a logical answer though? It apparently isn't always the correct answer? ...now I just confused myself with that comment. Yikes. I have a headache...need to take a nap.
Larry. Stop it with this talk of Senior Moments please, because...ah, now I forgot what I wanted to say? See...
I got a call from Kirk Evans decades ago concerning loose steering wheel adapters. Two Pantera owners had contacted KIrk, having found that 5/8" splines (US measurement= 0.06250") are almost but not quite equivalent to 16mm (Euro measurement= 0. 6299") with the same 36-spline count. Things go together but the joint feels loose until you tighten the nut. I wrote up our discussion in the POCA Newsletter at the time. So it's in the Archives and may also be here in PI's comm-archives- with which I'm not familiar.
The size difference is about 1/2 the depth of 36-spline engagement depth! So if a U.S made adapter or u-joint is on the low side of tolerance, or the Pantera steering shaft splines are a bit worn (or both), in an emergency at 150 mph or so, a driver can find the steering wheel is no longer tightly connected to the front tires. There should be ZERO slop in the fit of these steering parts! BTW, thats why I don't use the once-popular quick-disconnects- they always felt loose and worrisome to me.
I believe thats also the reason for the taper fit section on the hubs: with it you're not relying just on the splines for a tight, firm connection. When I made my own steering wheel adapter for a larger OD MOMO wheel (to give my little Judy more wheel leverage), I cut apart an old stock steering wheel and used the steel splined center for my adapter to the shaft. No scary things have happened yet in over 30 years of fast mountain touring, open-track or autocrossing. YMMV.
Got mine on eBay. It was Perfect!
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USCDOC13
IMHO, your adapter is not “perfect”.
yes the adapter you are using has the correct diameter and spline count. It does not have the correct taper.
In fact your adapter does not engage ANY of the steering shaft taper.
These hubs were initially sold as correct for different Mazda models. Some of the China-based vendors have discovered the diameter and spline count were found on other vehicle‘s and they are now marketing this splined hub for incorrect applications
The lack of any engagement with the shaft taper is a shortcoming only the China-made adapters consider unimportant.
EVERY reputable splined hub from Momo, Luisi, and other well-known brands WILL correctly engage the Pantera steering shaft taper, because that is how the OEM Ford/capri/Pantera steering wheel hubs are designed.
If you think engaging with the taper is unimportant for your $100,000 car, and the other drivers on the road near you, I would urge you to reconsider your choice.
Larry
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This ist the steerinng column of a Porsche 911 3.2 Carrera. No taper, and the endstop ist a c-clip. German textbook engineering. Torque is transmitted via the splines. I would say that the function of the taper of the Capri column ist to give someb
sort of defined endstop.
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@bluepant posted:This ist the steerinng column of a Porsche 911 3.2 Carrera.
This is a forum for Panteras.
How a steering wheel is attached on a Porsche, a Ford model T, a 1947 Studebaker, or 2023 Maserati is irrelevant to the conversation we are having.
If a splined hub does not fully duplicate the manner of attachment originally designed for the Capri/Pantera steering shaft, it is not correct.
Not. Correct.
End of discussion
Larry