I used this Emblem. It fits perfectly on the generic 'momo' horn buttons, the cheap ones. One can remove the plastic doomed Sticker in the Center and replaced IT with the emblem.
Horn button Like this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/16370...tkp%3ABk9SR6KFyo-5YQ
Attention: IT does Not Work with the original Momo buttons. They habe a different center Part.
Bluepant
when you get a chance can you post a photo of what this looks like installed on your car?
just to clarify that I got this right. You used the flat sticker sold by P.I.M. and swapped it into a generic eBay Momo horn button.
The generic buttons usually come with a logo of some type, so you removed that logo and installed the P.I.M. emblem, right?
and the finished product still has a clear, domed, Crystal plastic shape, correct?
thanks,
Larry
Yes, I will do. Car is in storage due to Winter. Will Take some time.
I got the Metal Emblem together with my car. I bought a cheap Chinese Momo Horn button. I removed the Logo sticker. IT came Off easily. These Logos are plastic domed Stickers, and replaced it with the Metal DT Emblem. Th finished Product has no domed crystal.
I made a domed Center button for my Porsche. For that, I used an UV curing doming Resin. I do Not recommend IT to use this with prints as the Resin heats Up a lot while curing, and IT might blur the Print colors.
I found a picture of my DIY horn button in my picture archive. The emblem has still the protective plastic sheet on it. I think it looks great and very OEM.
This is my DIY Porsche Horn Button. I took an OEM Momo horn button and replaced it with a self made, domed crystal. I used UV curing resin and a vintage Porsche crest. To do this you need to fabricate a flat round metal sheet with a rivet (for having an electrical connection to activate the horn when you push it) in order to replace the momo metal cone inside the horn button. 
@lf-tp2511 posted:OK, we already knew the cheap China/Mazda splined hub firmly attaches to the Capri/Pantera splined steering shaft..
we now know that cheap China/Mazda splined hub successfully auto-cancels the turn signal.
it is still not a proper OEM-style match to the capri/Pantera splined steering shaft, unlike the offerings from Momo, Luisi and other main-stream vendors.
It is still not correct.
Not. Correct.
Larry
I currently have my steering column disassembled for repair/updates.
How does the cancelling cam interlock with the notches on the steering wheel hub adapter? There is no direct connection. There should be an addition cog on the cam to engage the hub and rotate it but it doesn't have one. So what rotates the cam?
Also exactly what is the spring supposed to do?
I just don't understand the engineering concept here?
What I did when I originally installed my Momo wheel and adapter was to install a 1/32" roll pin in the base of the adapter and drilled a hole in the cam to directly drive the cam.
I don't even get why anyone bothered to notch anything in the steering wheel or hub. It just doesn't matter because it doesn't do anything.
The oem wheel is a thin walled (albeit heavy ga) unit. The collumn and steering wheel are welded together. Perhaps the bellows is intended to collapse in a crash? I guess you could destroy the stock steering wheel to harvest the tapered and splined "hole" and turn it into something else. 
On the original wheel as you have pictured, one can clearly see how the directional cancel cam is driven by the notch in the steering wheel base.
The drive provided on the Momo adapter does not and makes no sense. There is no direct drive provision made for the cam canceler.
@panteradoug posted:On the original wheel as you have pictured, one can clearly see how the directional cancel cam is driven by the notch in the steering wheel base.
The drive provided on the Momo adapter does not and makes no sense. There is no direct drive provision made for the cam canceler.
The photo below is the close-up that was posted of the Momo splined hub -
it definitely incorporates not just one notch like the OEM hub, but two notches. Perhaps the second is for a different application?
I don’t understand why you say the Momo lacks the notch? 🤷♂️
And just for clarity, here is a photo of the cancel cam, showing all of it, something that hasn’t yet been posted to this thread.
Larry
@lf-tp2511 posted:The photo below is the close-up that was posted of the Momo splined hub -
it definitely incorporates not just one notch like the OEM hub, but two notches. Perhaps the second is for a different application?
I don’t understand why you say the Momo lacks the notch? 🤷♂️
And just for clarity, here is a photo of the cancel cam, showing all of it, something that hasn’t yet been posted to this thread.
Larry
I never said that the Momo adapter did not have the notches in it. I said that they don't do anything (at least in my case) because they do not mate properly with the cancelling cam.
They don't mate AT ALL with that cam.
Here is the picture of my cam. According to the assembly diagram, the tab mounts up.
There is no tang on it to lock into the adapters notches. Is there more then one cancelling cam design? NO ONE, including Wilkinson seem to be able to answer that simple question.
Your picture shows a tang on the BOTTOM of the cam. My picture of the cam in the column shows that the illustration is correct, i.e., what is up and down on that cam. That is reinforced to me on how the directional switch needs that side tang to cancel, BUT WHERE IS THE INTERLOCK TO THE STEERING HUB?
Also in looking at the entire assembly, what is the additional tang on the bottom of the cancelling tab for? In my column, that would mate to nothing and mine doesn't have it? 
What I did, and likely will continue to use, is a 1/32" roll pin I installed into the bottom of the Momo adapter that drives the cam canceller.
The other alien device that you are looking at is the commutator for the column mounted push button start switch.
@lf-tp2511 posted:The photo below is the close-up that was posted of the Momo splined hub -
it definitely incorporates not just one notch like the OEM hub, but two notches. Perhaps the second is for a different application?
I don’t understand why you say the Momo lacks the notch? 🤷♂️
And just for clarity, here is a photo of the cancel cam, showing all of it, something that hasn’t yet been posted to this thread.
No spring. No room for it in the assembly. Just a factory solid spacer under the cam.
When installed, the smaller tang/tab in my photo is on the top, closest to the steering wheel.
it indexes with the notch in the stock hub, and will index with the notch on the Momo hub,
The larger tab is what touches/cancels the turn signal.
if your cancel cam only has the larger tab, that is the source of your issue.
the stock splined hub does not have a rod (like you added to your Momo), and yet it operates just fine, correct?
Larry
The hub does not function as intended. So it does not function properly.
There is not enough clearance to reverse the cam. It will be crushed.
The dark spot that you circled is from the crazy glue that I used to repair a crack in it. There is no evidence that the hub ever had a tab there.
Of course, I've only owned the car for 37 years so I can't speak necessarily as to how it was built originally.
Thanks for your input.
So your cam cracked at the exact location where other cams have the small tab??
as if the tab was snapped off and created the crack in the process??
And again, how would the stock splined steering wheel hub manage to cancel without an added rod as you have done??
Larry
@lf-tp2511 posted:So your cam cracked at the exact location where other cams have the small tab??
as if the tab was snapped off and created the crack in the process??
And again, how would the stock splined steering wheel hub manage to cancel without an added rod as you have done??
Larry
It wouldn't but in reversing the cam to the "stock orientation", the directional switch release button does not line up (I just tried that) with the release tab on the directional switch.
To realign that switch (somewhere in the 3/4 to 1" range) to make that work with the reversed cam would mean that the ignition switch would also need to move the equal amount to align with the enclosure case openings.
That in essence would move the steering wheel out from the dash the same amount. For me that is undesirable.
The way I am aligned now, the "missing" cog would need to be located on the same end of the cam as the release tang is. That obviously doesn't exist.
It can stay with the drive pin for that reason.
As far as the crack location, there is more then one crack in the cam. Not just in the "intended" location to the missing cog.
What is the dimension of the original steering wheel depth, i.e., the corrugated steel tube? Is it the same length as the Momo adapter?
My car had a LeCarra wheel on when I bought it. That may explain the variation from the stock assembly? I don't remember how the LeCarra hub adapter mated up to the cam.
It could be that the LeCarra installer was looking to gain more arm space by moving the steering wheel about an inch closer to the dash? That would explain this situation.
Something definitely seems to be non-standard on your column.
This sketch displays the distance of the OEM splined hub and wheel combination, and how far the driver’s side of the wheel is from the tip of the steering shaft.
this may allow you to determine if your wheel position has been installed closer or further than the stock wheel
With the Momo adapter the dimension is 2-1/2".
A more useful dimension would be the distance from the dashboard to the steering wheel?
It is pretty obvious that the original wheel is closer to the driver. In such a tight cabin, a couple of inch difference is a big deal.
Can you share a photograph of the back of your steering wheel, showing your adapter with a bottom and side view?
Thanks
Larry
OK.
