ZF won't shift when cold?

Are you SURE the shift rod that goes back and forth thru a guide under the left side header, is free and lubed? Most Panteras have NEVER had this device lubed since the car was at the Factory (if then), and it's a rubber-mounted steel tube guiding a steel shift rod. Once hot, metal expands.... Your red owners manual said to inject motor oil under the boot (which has probably rotted away) every so often.
BTW, some vendors sell teflon lined aluminum shift-support guides; when heated, the soft teflon crawls away from the single setscrew that holds it in place and slides out of position. This leaves the shift rod completely unsupported and causes sloppier shifting than you had to start with. Teflon cannot be glued, either.

80W90 Castrol Hypoy C Gear Oil -

The ZF should be smooth as silk cold or warm

Good advice, I will check it out. I just don't understand why the linkage is virtually frozen until the engine warms up, unless the heat causes the grease in the linkage to loosen up?

Jack,

Could it possibly be the syncros?

Michael

Certainly could. The stock clutch release distance was marginal when the car was new, so after normal wear 'n tear on the linkage & hydraulics, clutch drag when shifting causes synchro wear with each shift. Plus, nobody ever mats the clutch pedal when shifting, so that just increases the drag on clutch and synchros. This is why its SO important to install a long-throw slave cylinder in your Pantera or Mangusta, to get more disengagement distance in your clutch. Shifting slow and deliberate will prolong what amount of synchro life your car has left, but nothing can replace missing metal.
To help shifting now, center the gearshift lever according to the detailed instructions in your Red Owners Manual. This may help some cars shift easier. And removing the secondary shift-detent behind the shift stick also eases shifting. For those unaware, remove the shifter surround trim and chrome gate. You'll see a snap-ring behind the stick. Remove the snap-ring, the sheet plug, a spring and the cylindrical detent, by sticking a finger inside and pulling it out. Cork up the resulting hole with duct tape or something to keep dust out, and replace the trim. Thats it. Shifting will definitely be easier. Theory is, the ZF already has shift-detents inside the cases so this one is not needed. The fix is so simple, most vendors do this to customer cars free of charge.

quote:

Originally posted by Bosswrench:
Are you SURE the shift rod that goes back and forth thru a guide under the left side header, is free and lubed? Most Panteras have NEVER had this device lubed since the car was at the Factory (if then), and it's a rubber-mounted steel tube guiding a steel shift rod. Once hot, metal expands.... Your red owners manual said to inject motor oil under the boot (which has probably rotted away) every so often.
BTW, some vendors sell teflon lined aluminum shift-support guides; when heated, the soft teflon crawls away from the single setscrew that holds it in place and slides out of position. This leaves the shift rod completely unsupported and causes sloppier shifting than you had to start with. Teflon cannot be glued, either.

A cure for the wandering teflon guide is to drill and tap the aluminum with an additional two set screws spaced equal distances apart. Also longer set screws that have more of a "Bite" into the teflon.....Mark.

...I have the Long Throw Slave and I push the Pedal All the Way to the Mat on Every Shift! I give the Syncros all the time they need! My Transaxle will last Forever, Period! For anyone whos Transaxle has trouble shifting into Reverse Gear ONLY; that can be caused by the 'Back-Up light SWITCH being screwed ALL the way IN! Adjust so the switch is activated at the end of the reverse gear 'Stroke' and use the Locknut. Problem Solved!...

...I use Valvoline Hypoid Gear Lube 80W-90 and I recommend Getting Rid of the 'Fingered' Guide Plate! It is Inacurate and Screws Up Your shifts More than it helps!! Don't Believe Me!? Take it off and then try Your Shifts!...

...and I Second what Jack suggested!!! Get rid of the Detent in the 'Console' Shifter Box! That Helps a Lot; but rather than just cork it and tape over, I packed it with some grease and then placed a 'Quarter' over the grease for weight, this will provide a constant lubing of the shaft. Then cover the opening...

I've also run into one Pantera that would not shift into reverse when a Hall aluminum gate-replacement was mounted. I fiddled with the linkage for a while but the difficulty was finally resolved by bevelling the inside edge of the dog-leg gate between reverse and 1st at a 45 degree angle, so the stick could be laid over far enough to actuate reverse gear! A quick dab of flat black paint on the new bevel and the (brand-new) part looked new again.

Well I agree with you guys about removing the detents in the shifter. I mentioned that to Steve Wilkinson and did he rip me another...chew my head off.

"You can't do that. They are there for a reason. You're going to ruin the ZF...blah, blah, blah, yada, yada, yada."

My opinion. Do it. Take them out. The car almost feels like a Hurst shifter to me. The lever springs back to center neutral like it's a hot knife in butter.

ANother source of stiff shifting is the accordial gasket sealing the cabin that the shifter shaft passes through. Often this gasket and the rod have hardened grease mixed with road debris and sand. It creates significant friction and softens as the car warms up. Cleaning the shaft and gasket can make for an impressive transformation.

I may be so bold as to say dirt in this location may be one of the biggest variables, I have seen, that explain why two Panteras can shift so differerently.