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Mark,
The back of the ATO fuse panel has terminals in similar positions as the original fuse panel. Unplug each wire one at a time, transfer it to the ATO fuse panel. I also added 2 fuses for the power windows, my 72 had a separate little box with 2 fuses in it. I moved those fuses the end of the ATO fuse panel. This fuse panel has a total of 14 ATO fuses.

Bolts into the original mounting holes and uses the same screws and insulator plastic shim. The door closes without interference. None of the wires have to be lengthened. All of the materials used in this fuse panel are of high quality. All parts meet or exceed 30 amp ratings. This is an open frame design to allow for cooling. A typical 30 amp ATO fuse dissipates 2.5 Watts at maximum current!

Click on the youtube link above and see the demo.

I address headlight issues with other electronic controls. See my website under Headlight Motor controller. This controller switches the lights and motor.

Thanks for the support, I worked hard on this and tried to address the critical areas of the fuse panel.
PanteraDoug, The LED's tail lights for the standard lenses are not compatable with GT4. Soon I will start designing GT4 LED tail lights for a guy in NY. He supplied the lenses but not the buckets. I need the buckets yet. Can you help?
You can use any incandescent dash bulbs or LED's with the engine controller, the guage LED's was something I just wanted to try. The controller is not available until Jan or Feb.
Thanks for the positive comments.
Last edited by jon3613
I do have the GT4 taillamps installed on my Pantera.
Very coincidentally I was just talking to Mustang Magic in TX about installing his led replacement bulbs.

I like your solutin better because of the lousy reflectance in the housing itself.

Perhaps Larry could be persuaded to lend you a GT4 housing?
This is the only set I have and feel uncomfortable at letting them out of my sight.
TGIF. Maybe tonight if I overindulge I'll feel different in the morning? Wink
Jon,
On the fan relay replacement systen, do I have to replace my sensors with yours?
In order to install that adapter I have to drain the system, and I don't want to do that if possible.
Also there are two temperature sensors in the radiator, high temp and low temp. Do they both need to be replaced?

On the headlight door relay replacement, I presume that the led's are for diagnostics and are mounted on the unit itself, and that unit gets mounted in the drivers side "relay compartment"?
Doug,
Yes, only (1)sensor is needed and mounts with 3/8" NPT.
It has to be mounted in the flow of coolant leaving the radiator. (must)

Pre-L = passenger side near relay box.
L Model = drivers side relay box. Yes, the LED's are for diagnostics and don't have to be visible other than to confirm all switches are working properly.
I now have downloads for Radiator Fan Controller and Headlight/Motor Controller installation instructions at Pantera Electronics. The manuals will greatly help in understanding the systems. Feel free to donwload and review. I also moved all videos to YouTube with links from Pantera Electronics, now the videos can be longer and I can add more products to Pantera Electronics.
Last edited by jon3613
In the future developements area, I have used the MSD variable ignition timing module.
I like it except the MSD iginition module is now gone due to my lack of faith in the durabilaty of thier products.

I would suggest that rather then a screwdriver to adjust the timing, a nice big knob like the MSD has for us electronically challenged?
I am 2 to 2-1/2 hours out of Phillie.
I don't know what you want as far as testing. It is likely that my Pantera is down for the winter.
It looks like I need a 2nd gear syncro and that is going to take awhile. Maybe May before it is ready to go out again in the streets.

Do half the test mules get a placebo and the other need to be ready for strange side effects?

What system exactly is being tested? What does it replace?
With my luck I'd be in the placebo group anyway.

In reality, with winter weather conditions just around the next bend, even if the sycro is ok, the car at most will literaly go around the block a couple of times.

Sorry. I'm such a disappointment. Frowner

I think I'd rather buy one with all the bugs worked out though. That lets me off the hook, right?

Thanks for asking.

I think I'm going to busy on the headlights, fans and fuse panel. That's going to keep me busy. Those are prioraties. I already am running a pointless Motorcraft ignition.
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