#1905 Part Duex

Headers done, off to Jethot:

nice job gary ... whats the mufflers of choice ???

Ron

Thinking about making my own from scratch!

Very impressive Gary! show us a picture of your pipe bender would you.

Johnny

quote:

Originally posted by Johnny Woods:
Very impressive Gary! show us a picture of your pipe bender would you.

Johnny

For the exhaust or the roll bar? The exhaust is pre-bent then welded. You just cut section by section like a jig saw puzzle:


The roll bar was bent with Harbor Freight pipe bender. Did a darn good job too!:



Remember to put plates under the rollers to keep it from denting the tubing:

AH .... I bought that one too and it didnt work ... but I see you made sleeves to protect it. they also say you have to fill it with sand...but I like your idea. I;m going to try again.

Ron

Ron I was real pleased with my bends. Just scared every time I pulled on the lever. Lot of pressure on those Chinese welds!

There is a limit to the size exhaust I can get through the suspension. The tubes that were on their was a single 1-7/8 and they were bent from suspension contact. I can get 2 much larger tubes over the top. I really did not want to go with 180's through the back.

Gary

quote:

Originally posted by Mark:
Gary,

Not trying to be an a** but why are you changing the exhust from running under the car?

Soon to be engine test stand:

Looks great around...question about the engine. What are the bungs on the collectors for.. Fuel injection? Carb, Webbers?

I have a couple bungs further down for O2 sensors but the bungs closer to the heads are for EGT. I am going to run the engine on the test stand with both the Demon 750 and the Webers but if all works well, the Webers are going in the car.

Gary,

What's that funky ZF bellhousing a few pictures up?

Michael

Nice work Gary.
Here is a pic of the engine test stand I am building.
I have had one in the shop for years that I bought comercially but I have not been very happy with it. They made too many design consessions to be able to fit it in a box.
The new one is heavier materials and the engine is better supported. I have had to make it universal because of all the different brands of engines I run on it.
Of course I made sure the Pantera engine fit on it first

Michael, the 400 has the 460 bellhousing bolt pattern. That is a 460 bell housing. Don't ask me where it came from because it does not exist

Brooke, that looks cool! Any pointers?

Pretty basic stuff.
Make sure the mounting structures clear whatever kind of headers you will be running.

Give your self plenty of room at the front of the engine to get to the dist and check timing etc.
The commercial unit I bought was bad for this, the gauge panel sits right on top of the dist and waterpump pulley.

Make sure your engine hoist legs fit under it for positioning the engine. I had to weld riser blocks on the commercial unit.

I made the sections all removable so if I have to tear into a timing set,cam or whatever, the front of the stand can be removed for access to the front of the engine.

I am also welding tie downs on it so it can be transported with a engine on it.

I am setting the fuel system up to be able to use the mech pump on the engine or feed it with a electric pump. Give yourself enough room on the gauge panel for additional gauges if you need them such as egt, boost etc.

I use a Edelbrock AFR meter that I mount in a set of removeable collector adapters. I believe you use a LM-1 so you should be good. I have adapters to bolt on a set of mufflers so I can hear for noises in the engine.

Thats pretty much it. Good luck in your fabbing.

Thanks Brooke. I will try to keep those in mind. I did find the frame is in the way of the hoist but I don't really want to change the layout. I think I will just block it up.

Are you running a radiator?

Brook forgot to tell you my car came from Utah.

Here is a pic of a AMC 401 that a customer brought in mounted on the commercial stand.

I use tap water in a continuous flow to cool the engine. This is done without a thermostat in the engine. I have a shut off valve to meter the volume of water to stabilize the engine temp. I usually run them in at 180 degrees. After running the engine I pull the block plugs to drain the block and fill it with 50/50 antifreeze so no rust forms.

There are + and - to this system. The good is you dont have the bulk of a radiator in the way and have to worry about air locks and trying to maintain temp. The bad is it uses a lot of water in a 30min run in, the possibility of rust and re-removing the water neck to install a stat.

You can see the extensions I made at the rear of the stand to get the motor out of the dash area. You can also see the riser blocks to pick it up for the engine hoist clearance.

Im sure you will come up with something very cool as usual.

What part of Utah did your car come out of?

Salt Lake City.

Here is a before photo:

One more question. Does it move around much on the stand when you run it?

It does not move at all. I never lock the wheels. I think the stability is from using rubber mounts on the front and hanging the rear. This takes up a lot of the vibration.
It does rock when you throttle the engine though.

I bought my car just south of Salt Lake in Draper.

Just got the engine out of the car. The car has been off the dolly for the last couple months while I fab up a dozen different things. All the dust from cutting and grinding has been swept under the car. Now that the engine is out I can set it off the jack stands and back on the dolly; push it out and clean it up.

quote:

Originally posted by comp2:
Michael, the 400 has the 460 bellhousing bolt pattern. That is a 460 bell housing. Don't ask me where it came from because it does not exist

Right! Now I remember the post a couple of years back when you were talking about using a 400.

Michael

Did your car at one time have a all aluminum big block in it?
I remember seeing a fancy red wide body Pantera at a show in Park City that had a all Aluminum bigblock in it. I think it also had wood inlays in the door panels.
I know I have either pics or video of the car somewhere. It was the wildest thing ever.

Just a standard cleveland. I know it had webbers on it at one time but the guy kept the webbers on trade in. He made a funky air cleaner box which used the webber air cleaners.

Making the roll bar that extends into the engine bay removable:



Welded up:



Tubed through both, will weld on nuts latter:



1 down, 3 to go!

That last application showing the tube notched and fitted to the mount. I was just wondering aren't the bolts in a sheer application??? Just me here thinking...would'nt taking a larger piece of tubing and sliding over the notched sections then passing the bolts through that outer piece be the strongest way to make that joint???
Jeff

I have the tubing to do that. I don't know if I will. Once I get the webbers on their I am going to see if there is room for a cross brace.If so it will have plenty of attatch points.

So Gary what method have you fabricated to tie the Roof into the roll cage ... I did mone but have to take some pics.

Ron

3/16" plate and a short roll tube. It is part of the removable tube in the back. I am looking forward to seeing yours. I just sat down to write to see how yours was coming:

I have an interruption. I just got my dash back from just dashes for my Cutlass. I need to get it back together. Anyone want to help. It's not my favorite job!:

http://www.rc-tech.net/cars/cutlass/dash/ohmy.jpg

http://www.rc-tech.net/cars/cutlass/dash/jd.jpg

And there you have it my weak point .... electrical ... wow god bless you on putting the dash back ....

Ron

quote:

Originally posted by accobra:
And there you have it my weak point .... electrical ... wow god bless you on putting the dash back ....

Ron

I am just not in the mood for late model dashes!

I will keep an eye out for your photos. I want to see them.

Posting them now.

Ron

Got the dash about done on the Oldsmobile so it's time to get back on the engine stand. Got the headers back from jet hot:

Hows it going ??? Havent heard from ya ??

Ron

Hey Ron,

Going slow right now with some diversions. Building a cam from scratch for a 1902 olds. Wrote a program to profile 2 cams at 10 degree segments.

Also working on a computer program for the engine test stand. I want to read and log a host of parameters including 8 individual O2 locations and 2 O2 locations to help tune the Webbers.

And some other stuff.

If there is one thing I know, time FLIES as you get older!

"Going slow right now with some diversions. "

Wow making a cam ..sounds like high school mechanical drawing ..we did that.

I like the idea of the o2 sensors to tune webers.

ME ? well got a great deal on a Ingersol Rand 5hp compressor ... 1/2 price because I bought another one for a large project ....and finally completed my radiant garage heating piping and bought a instantaneous heater ..just got to install it ..it got too cold very fast here in NY to work and the garage seems colder then outside.

This is my new excuse ?? LOL

Ron

The O2 to tune in general, left bank and right bank but the program is displaying individual EGT's for each cylinder. This will be to balance the webbers.

I wish I had the patience when building my shop to have some one put in the radiant heat. I just did not want to wait to get it done.

Almost done with side trans mount conversion: