Just some updated photos:
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It's looking good Gary. Are you doing way with your rear quarter window? That's my favourite part of the car.
Looks like your planning on some big hood vents.. Keep the pictures coming.
Johnny
Looks like your planning on some big hood vents.. Keep the pictures coming.
Johnny
quote:Originally posted by Johnny Woods:
It's looking good Gary. Are you doing way with your rear quarter window? That's my favourite part of the car.
Looks like your planning on some big hood vents.. Keep the pictures coming.
Johnny
At this point I am planning on making my own intake ducts for the side window. Not sure if they will e aluminum or fiberglass. Probably fiberglass. The oil cooler and oil accumulator will be on the left so I will duct air in for that. I am going to build the gas tank on the right.
There will be a large hood vent in the front. Probably like the EX3 Pantera. The plan is to build the hood from scratch out of aluminum. Then when I give up on it to go buy a carbon fibre hood.
I am slow. Hopefully I can get a free weekend soon to get more done. Here is the mount for the roll bar. Much to do to it still:
wow,lots of work, a question please, is the roll bar custom built or from a vendor? if a vendor, which one please.
thanks
nazgul
thanks
nazgul
The vendor is GARY IN INDIANA !!! LOL
Yes that's Gary who is in Southern Indiana not to be confused with "Gary Indiana" which is in northern Indiana.
Nazgul, I am making it myself. If you look at the first post here, the car is upside down with a cardboard template. I used that to determine how I wanted to make the shape.
The plates were built from 3/16" steel plate. They will have steel tubes welded through the frame with plates on the bottom as well.
The tubes were Tig welded.
I have a lot more more tubes to add.
Gary
Nazgul, I am making it myself. If you look at the first post here, the car is upside down with a cardboard template. I used that to determine how I wanted to make the shape.
The plates were built from 3/16" steel plate. They will have steel tubes welded through the frame with plates on the bottom as well.
The tubes were Tig welded.
I have a lot more more tubes to add.
Gary
More:
More:
It's pretty much the same as this roll bar:
http://www.pim.net/20807GT523.jpg
I am going to put in a cross bar as here but I need to get some smaller pipe.
Yes the roll bar will have to come out to get the fire wall cover off but I will make the bump smaller and removable.
I like how the guy did the dome light here in the afore mentioned photo.
http://www.pim.net/20807GT523.jpg
I am going to put in a cross bar as here but I need to get some smaller pipe.
Yes the roll bar will have to come out to get the fire wall cover off but I will make the bump smaller and removable.
I like how the guy did the dome light here in the afore mentioned photo.
It appears to me the cage is bolt in and could be slid foward to get the fire wall cover on ....BUT the center access cover would have to be able to be removeable without taking the larger cover off.
Accutally thats a good idea ,,because I dont know why its that way from the factory ..it makes have\ing to set timing and stuff like that an all day project.
Gary couple minor things ... only the rear hoop and if you added a front hoop have to be 1.75 mild steel.. the rest of the bars or braces could be of any suitable diamter and wall thickness ... I remembered this from the RULE BOOK. Just in case you do run into space or a small conflict.
Anyway nice work ..keep it up.
Ron
Ron
Accutally thats a good idea ,,because I dont know why its that way from the factory ..it makes have\ing to set timing and stuff like that an all day project.
Gary couple minor things ... only the rear hoop and if you added a front hoop have to be 1.75 mild steel.. the rest of the bars or braces could be of any suitable diamter and wall thickness ... I remembered this from the RULE BOOK. Just in case you do run into space or a small conflict.
Anyway nice work ..keep it up.
Ron
Ron
Thanks Ron,
Which sanctioning body is that for? My main hoop is 1-3/4 dom 1/8" which would be good for the NHRA. I don't plan on doing anything other then test n tune type drags so I doubt anyone will inspect it that closely. If I enter a NHRA event then I think they would look at it a bit more closely.
Seems every sanctioning body wants something a little different. At least with grinder, saws, welder I can change it!
The only thing which is going to throw a monkey wrench in getting it out of the car is I plan on sending top tubes through the back window which will attach at the decklid hinge then go down to the wheel well. I will make them separate at the window but it's one more piece to maneuver.
Which sanctioning body is that for? My main hoop is 1-3/4 dom 1/8" which would be good for the NHRA. I don't plan on doing anything other then test n tune type drags so I doubt anyone will inspect it that closely. If I enter a NHRA event then I think they would look at it a bit more closely.
Seems every sanctioning body wants something a little different. At least with grinder, saws, welder I can change it!
The only thing which is going to throw a monkey wrench in getting it out of the car is I plan on sending top tubes through the back window which will attach at the decklid hinge then go down to the wheel well. I will make them separate at the window but it's one more piece to maneuver.
Gary actually it was SCCA rules and I had remebered NHRA rules ... Both you and I shouldnt really have to worry since I dont think we will be competeing competitively. But the RULES give you some guidelines and I see your on the right track. Bigger is always better when your upsidedown >>LOL
I;m still contanplating a square hoop to outline the outer edge of the roof line and door post which I can attach tube to and keep the rear window.
Ron
I;m still contanplating a square hoop to outline the outer edge of the roof line and door post which I can attach tube to and keep the rear window.
Ron
quote:Originally posted by accobra:
Gary actually it was SCCA rules and I had remebered NHRA rules ... Both you and I shouldnt really have to worry since I dont think we will be competeing competitively. But the RULES give you some guidelines and I see your on the right track. Bigger is always better when your upsidedown >>LOL
I;m still contanplating a square hoop to outline the outer edge of the roof line and door post which I can attach tube to and keep the rear window.
Ron
I'd like to see it.
My brother does some running on a track. While they do have tech they are more picky about roll bars in cars without tops. Mainly they are interested in if you are leaking fluid. Like you said, I would like to do some things but not competitively.
Gary,
Here is the link to the SCCA rules ..look at pages 102 - 119 ..I have to say there is a lot of good info .. it got me thinking ??
Ron
http://www.scca.com/_FileLibrary/File/GCR2007.pdf
Here is the link to the SCCA rules ..look at pages 102 - 119 ..I have to say there is a lot of good info .. it got me thinking ??
Ron
http://www.scca.com/_FileLibrary/File/GCR2007.pdf
Ron, I am going to have to print a copy and sit on the john to read that. It's going to take a little for all that to sink in.
Are you really wanting to go with square tubing? I doubt it would meet anyone's specs but your own. Are you not liking the idea of bending the pipe? I had the main hoop bent but I have been bending the rest with a Harbor freight tubing bender. I have been able to get good bends up to 30 degrees. I have not gone past 30 degrees. There are a trick though. For 1-3/4 DOM use the 1-1/4" die!!!! I don't think the Chinese use the same measuring stick we do!
Are you really wanting to go with square tubing? I doubt it would meet anyone's specs but your own. Are you not liking the idea of bending the pipe? I had the main hoop bent but I have been bending the rest with a Harbor freight tubing bender. I have been able to get good bends up to 30 degrees. I have not gone past 30 degrees. There are a trick though. For 1-3/4 DOM use the 1-1/4" die!!!! I don't think the Chinese use the same measuring stick we do!
More photos from today:
LOVE THOSE WHEELS!!!!!
Looking really good Gary!
Glad to see you found the wheels you wanted.
Glad to see you found the wheels you wanted.
Thanks Brooke, got those from Ron!
Moving again, almost done with headers:
Long pipes just temporary.
Long pipes just temporary.
Headers look nice Gary!
I had a couple of questions.
Did your engine guy give you a guideline of what size primary pipe to run and how long they needed to be?
Is that information what you used to configure the set up you are working on?
I thought I read in another post that you were going to use oval tubing for clearance around the frame. Did that not work?
What are you using for mufflers and how are they going to exit the car?
Sorry for all the questions but I think this kind of fab is cool. You ,Johnny and Ron are my Heroes.
I had a couple of questions.
Did your engine guy give you a guideline of what size primary pipe to run and how long they needed to be?
Is that information what you used to configure the set up you are working on?
I thought I read in another post that you were going to use oval tubing for clearance around the frame. Did that not work?
What are you using for mufflers and how are they going to exit the car?
Sorry for all the questions but I think this kind of fab is cool. You ,Johnny and Ron are my Heroes.
quote:Originally posted by Pittcrew:
Did your engine guy give you a guideline of what size primary pipe to run and how long they needed to be?
I had used some on line calculators some time ago to as well as some calculations Hot Rod published. They both pointed to 1-3/4" primaries. Any larger I might increase power slightly but loose more midrange power and possibly idle issues.
quote:
Is that information what you used to configure the set up you are working on?
Honestly this design is based more on physical function then engine function. I see people make huge changes in exhaust and get a small improvement in say mid range power yet small change in over all power. Some of this may be noticeable on a dyno but I doubt a big deal in the grand scheme of things. I simply wanted to make sure the primaries and secondaries were big enough for flow.
I plan on running the engine again on a dyno with my old headers and these headers, with the Barry Grant carburetor and the 4 down draft webbers. I want to see the difference in the carbs and with the headers. There is more at work here then what I can totally grasp and I would like to see through testing the difference.
quote:
I thought I read in another post that you were going to use oval tubing for clearance around the frame. Did that not work?
Some one else had suggested that but I never had any intention of doing that.
quote:
What are you using for mufflers and how are they going to exit the car?
Thinking of making my own mufflers! Still looking at designs. I have some ideas which will look similar from behind but may enter through the top of the rear instead of the rear. We'll see where we go from here.
quote:
Sorry for all the questions but I think this kind of fab is cool. You ,Johnny and Ron are my Heroes.
If there is anything I have learned is that EVERYONE is more capable then they know!! Everyone!
Gary,
Cheers from Indy - great work!
-William
Cheers from Indy - great work!
-William
Thanks William
Working on mocking up gas tank for right side. Coming to a stopping point on that till I get the engine back out:
Lay down radiator:
All air going through hood, built mounts for the radiator to lay it down even further:
All air going through hood, built mounts for the radiator to lay it down even further:
Beginning to fab hood:
When fabbing hood from aluminum fails I will buy carbon fiber hood and modify.
When fabbing hood from aluminum fails I will buy carbon fiber hood and modify.
quote:Originally posted by accobra:
Looking good Gary ... I had a slow down progress. LOL
Beautiful Ron!!!! Far more beautiful then any car!!!
Definitely a beautiful child, Ron!
Michael
Michael
Gary didnt mean to hi jack your post.
Gary / Micheal ...thanks.
Ron
Gary / Micheal ...thanks.
Ron
quote:Originally posted by accobra:
Gary didnt mean to hi jack your post.
Gary / Micheal ...thanks.
Ron
Are you kidding, we're all here to gab anyway. Where ever the conversation leads us!
Here is one set of headers done, off to Jet Hot:
Looking good great Idea to go up high ..up and over I like that.
Ron
Ron
Gary,
Headers are looking great! Did you make them yourself? and can you explain why you are going over the top of the suspension on one side, but not the other? I have forgotten your reason for moving the petrol tank to the right? More info please.. and keep the pictures coming.
Johnny
Headers are looking great! Did you make them yourself? and can you explain why you are going over the top of the suspension on one side, but not the other? I have forgotten your reason for moving the petrol tank to the right? More info please.. and keep the pictures coming.
Johnny
I am going over the suspension on both sides. It clears the exhaust by quite a bit actually. The exhaust is inside the wheel well frame work and even if the tire contacts the frame it will not encroach in that area.
Gas tank to the right because oil coolers and stuff going on side with filter. I don't want to route lines over to the right.
More latter, off on a trip.
Gary
Gas tank to the right because oil coolers and stuff going on side with filter. I don't want to route lines over to the right.
More latter, off on a trip.
Gary
Johny, Yes I am building them myself. This is starting out on the left side. Actually I am almost done with the left too. Probably get it done tomorrow:
http://www.rc-tech.net/cars/panttransam/1905/ex/exmock2.jpg
http://www.rc-tech.net/cars/panttransam/1905/ex/exmock2.jpg
COMP2, which heads by CHI are you running, and whats the CID of your motor? I've got the 208cc heads on order right now for my 408C, as well as the intake like you've got. Cant wait to fresh'n my motor up, as it's now puffing a little blue smoke, which I find VERY embassasing!! Its low miles, but I suspect a cracked ring.........
quote:Originally posted by Speedzone:
COMP2, which heads by CHI are you running, and whats the CID of your motor? I've got the 208cc heads on order right now for my 408C, as well as the intake like you've got. Cant wait to fresh'n my motor up, as it's now puffing a little blue smoke, which I find VERY embassasing!! Its low miles, but I suspect a cracked ring.........
It would be worth looking at the heads when you get them. When they originally made the 3V they did not flow as good as the 2V in low rpm. The reason was the intake seat area on the 3V was not radiused like the 2V. My builder modified mine but it may be worth looking into. Not a big deal as they are good heads. They are may be doing it better now.