Thanks Dave, I am looking for tubing. I checked the ero suppliers but found either too big or too small. I am thinking of making a "grill" for the radiator opening in the hood. I want to play with the idea any way.
Brooke, my wife and I are both pretty worn out and ready to kick back a little.
Mark they fit fine. I have ran the suspension with tire through full travel and I am clear. I still need to make the back half into the mufflers which at this point won't be too much trouble.
They are the type of thing which probably need to be custom built to the car. I have the Ford 400 in mine so the heads are higher and further out which meats these won't fit the 351 (and align). I think the headers are going to be a great alternative to the 180's. As usual several experts told me it wouldn't work but seems to be just fine. Some experts told me heat would blow the tire but under normal driving attitude it was actually further from the tire then when the exhaust is routed through the suspension.
The only thing I wonder is if it will effect the paint on the well. If it does I will add heat shield.
I really wanted to be able to use the tub and I wanted an open exhaust and this seemes to be the answer:
They are the type of thing which probably need to be custom built to the car. I have the Ford 400 in mine so the heads are higher and further out which meats these won't fit the 351 (and align). I think the headers are going to be a great alternative to the 180's. As usual several experts told me it wouldn't work but seems to be just fine. Some experts told me heat would blow the tire but under normal driving attitude it was actually further from the tire then when the exhaust is routed through the suspension.
The only thing I wonder is if it will effect the paint on the well. If it does I will add heat shield.
I really wanted to be able to use the tub and I wanted an open exhaust and this seemes to be the answer:
gary, motor looks great. I really like the headers
Thank You Dave!
Gary
Gary
Gary,
on pg11 of this post you talk about having flywheel problems where one was too small and you were waiting for the right one.What did you end up doing? What is the tooth count you are using? What brand?
thanks
on pg11 of this post you talk about having flywheel problems where one was too small and you were waiting for the right one.What did you end up doing? What is the tooth count you are using? What brand?
thanks
Brooke the flywheel is a CenterForce Pn:700290. It needs to be neutrally balanced and this was not. A quick trip to the balancing shop and it is now neutral.
Cleveland starter did not work but I went to O'Reilly's and got a Ford 460 starter for $71.68 including core charge and tax. The 460 starter is a good starter.
Cleveland starter did not work but I went to O'Reilly's and got a Ford 460 starter for $71.68 including core charge and tax. The 460 starter is a good starter.
Brook are you putting in a 400? The engine builder has another 400 stroked 434 with CHI heads, 4 bolt main and such for sale. He had a client run into money trouble and they are selling it for quite a bit less then what they have in it.
I am putting in a 400.
My 351C short block is trash.
My original goal was to refresh the engine in my car to a nice 300-350HP level and then build a fancy stroker later after I was driving and enjoying the car.
That changed slightly when my short block turned out to be junk. The machine shop I use are big fans of the 400 and had been pressing me to use one. I remember buiding one for a truck in the early 90's with 2v clev heads and bushed rods and pop up pistons that ran really well.
I found a great deal on a 78 400 cast at the Cleveland foundry.My machine shop gave me a dead 400 block to use for mock up so I decided to park a 400 short block under my 4V heads and intake and build a mild engine as originally planned....Only bigger.
I had been following your build with your one off cast bellhousing and was looking to fab my own adapter when Quick Time released their bellhousing. It looks like you have one also.Did you decide not to use your original one?
www.quicktimeinc.com
I have pn RM-8012. Cost was $415 and I bought it direct. Here is a pic of the kit.
The reason I asked about the flywheel is the Quick Time web site lists a 184 tooth flywheel as the application for the 8012 bellhousing. IIRC the standard 400 flywheel is 180 and I could only find 184 for FE applications.
I will try your recommendation of the 182 and a 460 starter.
I had planned on fabbing my own headers anyway and now I just add motor mounts to that. I am a ways from mock up but am buying parts ahead of where I am so I will be ready when I get to that point.
My 351C short block is trash.
My original goal was to refresh the engine in my car to a nice 300-350HP level and then build a fancy stroker later after I was driving and enjoying the car.
That changed slightly when my short block turned out to be junk. The machine shop I use are big fans of the 400 and had been pressing me to use one. I remember buiding one for a truck in the early 90's with 2v clev heads and bushed rods and pop up pistons that ran really well.
I found a great deal on a 78 400 cast at the Cleveland foundry.My machine shop gave me a dead 400 block to use for mock up so I decided to park a 400 short block under my 4V heads and intake and build a mild engine as originally planned....Only bigger.
I had been following your build with your one off cast bellhousing and was looking to fab my own adapter when Quick Time released their bellhousing. It looks like you have one also.Did you decide not to use your original one?
www.quicktimeinc.com
I have pn RM-8012. Cost was $415 and I bought it direct. Here is a pic of the kit.
The reason I asked about the flywheel is the Quick Time web site lists a 184 tooth flywheel as the application for the 8012 bellhousing. IIRC the standard 400 flywheel is 180 and I could only find 184 for FE applications.
I will try your recommendation of the 182 and a 460 starter.
I had planned on fabbing my own headers anyway and now I just add motor mounts to that. I am a ways from mock up but am buying parts ahead of where I am so I will be ready when I get to that point.
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I will tell you it started right up. I did have to hog out the back plate which came with the bell housing to get the starter to fit. The opening just needed to be open more. Did not change the alignment bolts and it starts fine.
You want to start another thread for your engine? Would love to follow the progress. Did you see the engine mounts I made and how I did? You can drill and tap one side of the 400 for the Cleveland mount. The embosement was there on one side.
You know Tim has stroker kits for it.
http://www.tmeyerinc.com/
Let me know how I can help.
You want to start another thread for your engine? Would love to follow the progress. Did you see the engine mounts I made and how I did? You can drill and tap one side of the 400 for the Cleveland mount. The embosement was there on one side.
You know Tim has stroker kits for it.
http://www.tmeyerinc.com/
Let me know how I can help.
I did see your mounts, they looked nice. I am trying to decide if I want to do it that way or fab the lower mount and use the truck mounts on the block. I will check price and availability of the trunk mounts first and maybe that will help me decide.
I could start a thread. I think you have covered most of it really good here.
Maybe I will start a thread when I get farther along and have more defined solutions to my installation.I don't want it to be redundant to what you have posted.
Our application differences will be me using my 351C heads and intake, my retaining my AC and factory belt drive system. I will for the time being, be using factory GTS Ansa mufflers so my new headers will tie into them.
My goal is to do this swap changing the fewest parts possible and see how far I can simplify it."Dummy it down" I think is the term people use.
I have had some people ask why I just don't go 460 and as you have previously stated its about packaging. The 400 I think will be less fab/relocating. I have also had people ask why I dont get another C block and stroke it. Well, with the 400 I already have, I just did it with a short block change instead of a kit. When I do buy a stroker kit it will be even bigger.
Building a hot rod 400 is not a new concept, the 4X4 crowd around here have been doing it for years. I think its the application in a Pantera that is not so common but I'm sure others have done it.
I can see I have to fab a mount for my existing clutch slave.
What are you doing for your throwout?
A hydraulic bearing?
I saw Tim's stroker kits on his web site. That will be a good choice for a later engine.
Just keep posting on your thread and that will be a big help. Things like how you overcame your starter problem and issues like that help a lot especially if someone else is also thinking of doing the same swap.
I could start a thread. I think you have covered most of it really good here.
Maybe I will start a thread when I get farther along and have more defined solutions to my installation.I don't want it to be redundant to what you have posted.
Our application differences will be me using my 351C heads and intake, my retaining my AC and factory belt drive system. I will for the time being, be using factory GTS Ansa mufflers so my new headers will tie into them.
My goal is to do this swap changing the fewest parts possible and see how far I can simplify it."Dummy it down" I think is the term people use.
I have had some people ask why I just don't go 460 and as you have previously stated its about packaging. The 400 I think will be less fab/relocating. I have also had people ask why I dont get another C block and stroke it. Well, with the 400 I already have, I just did it with a short block change instead of a kit. When I do buy a stroker kit it will be even bigger.
Building a hot rod 400 is not a new concept, the 4X4 crowd around here have been doing it for years. I think its the application in a Pantera that is not so common but I'm sure others have done it.
I can see I have to fab a mount for my existing clutch slave.
What are you doing for your throwout?
A hydraulic bearing?
I saw Tim's stroker kits on his web site. That will be a good choice for a later engine.
Just keep posting on your thread and that will be a big help. Things like how you overcame your starter problem and issues like that help a lot especially if someone else is also thinking of doing the same swap.
Oh I would love for you to start a duplicate thread. I don't think it would be redundant at all. I have been a little slow but I have had a tremendously productive spring and hope to pick up steam again shortly. I did get one fender vent welded in. I am off to simulator training for 2 weeks so I hope to really start to focus on it when I get back:
BROOKE,
I got the low down on the flywheel. I got screwed up in our exchanges, I wasn't sure what we tried but I checked it out and I am 100% sure what I got now.
I DO have Centerforce #700290 and it IS a 176 tooth flywheel. I confirmed by both counting the teeth and verifying the numbers on the flywheel. I hope I have not confused you but some how I snapped back into some other discussions with Tim.
It DOES need to be BALANCED NEUTRAL which can be done at a balance shop. If you have a hard time finding one let me know I have a good one here I can steer you too.
I got the low down on the flywheel. I got screwed up in our exchanges, I wasn't sure what we tried but I checked it out and I am 100% sure what I got now.
I DO have Centerforce #700290 and it IS a 176 tooth flywheel. I confirmed by both counting the teeth and verifying the numbers on the flywheel. I hope I have not confused you but some how I snapped back into some other discussions with Tim.
It DOES need to be BALANCED NEUTRAL which can be done at a balance shop. If you have a hard time finding one let me know I have a good one here I can steer you too.
I removed the reference to anything other then 176 tooth so no one would review the threads and get the wrong flywheel.
This is the list I keep in the garage. It is ever updated on Excel.
Top Left is a work in progress on the Pantera. I expand each phase as I get to it. Right now I have everything listed I need to do before I put the car back on the rotisserie, what needs to be done before it comes off, and the order of things before paint. I don't have much past it as this is my main concern now.
As I update things, add things, cross things off I change it in Excel and print out the latest copy.
The bottom sheets keep track of everything from oil changes, types, filter numbers, tires, mileage, etc on the other cars.
The top right sheets are to do's and squawks for the other cars.
These list really help me walk away for a couple weeks at a time and dive right back in it when I get time.
Top Left is a work in progress on the Pantera. I expand each phase as I get to it. Right now I have everything listed I need to do before I put the car back on the rotisserie, what needs to be done before it comes off, and the order of things before paint. I don't have much past it as this is my main concern now.
As I update things, add things, cross things off I change it in Excel and print out the latest copy.
The bottom sheets keep track of everything from oil changes, types, filter numbers, tires, mileage, etc on the other cars.
The top right sheets are to do's and squawks for the other cars.
These list really help me walk away for a couple weeks at a time and dive right back in it when I get time.
Gary,
I ran into a snag today with the bellhousing.
My Dad came over to the shop and wanted to see my fancy bellhousing mounted to the ZF.
As it turnes out the bellhousing is made for the GT40 application so the bolt pattern is 180 off from how it mounts in the Pantera.
He held it up to my ZF and said that there was no way it was going on there. He was half right it bolted up fine when it was upside down!
My solution will be to call them Monday and see if they can make me one with the ring rotated 180 or I will transfer punch this one, mount it to a milling machine and redrill it myself.
I think the Mangusta is 180 from the pantera also. Hmmmm a 460 in a Mangusta...
Here are the pics from today
I ran into a snag today with the bellhousing.
My Dad came over to the shop and wanted to see my fancy bellhousing mounted to the ZF.
As it turnes out the bellhousing is made for the GT40 application so the bolt pattern is 180 off from how it mounts in the Pantera.
He held it up to my ZF and said that there was no way it was going on there. He was half right it bolted up fine when it was upside down!
My solution will be to call them Monday and see if they can make me one with the ring rotated 180 or I will transfer punch this one, mount it to a milling machine and redrill it myself.
I think the Mangusta is 180 from the pantera also. Hmmmm a 460 in a Mangusta...
Here are the pics from today
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Here it is rotated so the holes line up.
Another clue was that the top two holes on the Quick time bellhousing are not threaded. The bottom two on my original bellhousing arent either because it takes bolts there instead of the studs.
I didn't see where you had mentioned this in any of your posts. The Id of the new bell fits the lip of the ZF perfectly so atleast that works.
Another clue was that the top two holes on the Quick time bellhousing are not threaded. The bottom two on my original bellhousing arent either because it takes bolts there instead of the studs.
I didn't see where you had mentioned this in any of your posts. The Id of the new bell fits the lip of the ZF perfectly so atleast that works.
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Excellent Brook. I haven't had the ZF up to mine yet. I will go look here in a minute. Does it look like new holes can be drilled and tapped?
Assuming mine is the same (and I would assume it is) I will call my engine builder to see if he can get quick time to do it right.
You are getting to another puzzle I have been thinking about. After market parts are notoriously bad. I know we have had tremendous trouble with ALL the cam manufacturers not getting the cams lift to match the profile (that's another story).
The most critical part of these bell housings is input shaft alignment. On a more traditional application one would dial it in on the calibrated hole. Any ideas of how to calibrate this with these bell housings?
Gary
Assuming mine is the same (and I would assume it is) I will call my engine builder to see if he can get quick time to do it right.
You are getting to another puzzle I have been thinking about. After market parts are notoriously bad. I know we have had tremendous trouble with ALL the cam manufacturers not getting the cams lift to match the profile (that's another story).
The most critical part of these bell housings is input shaft alignment. On a more traditional application one would dial it in on the calibrated hole. Any ideas of how to calibrate this with these bell housings?
Gary
Brook I just dug up a photo. Mine is wrong too:
As long as the ring is not removed, the input shaft alignment should remain correct. If Quicktime can not help me, then I was going to orient the bellhousing "right side up" and level it to the zf. Then I was going to transfer punch where the holes need to be correctly located and drill and tap them on a mill. Since the bellhousing locates on the lip of the zf and not simply flush to it, I believe rotating it will not affect input shaft alignment. I will contact Quicktime Monday and let you know what they say.
I knew there would be days like this.....
I knew there would be days like this.....
Additionaly, either redrilling the holes or rotating the mouting ring, would mean the cutouts in the bellhousing would not align with the new hole location. I don't consider this to be a problem unless you're trying to access nuts at these mounting locations. I am going to stud my bellhousing like my original, so I won't need that access. Just another point to think about.
Wow, cam problems too huh? What did you get us into?
Wow, cam problems too huh? What did you get us into?
LOL, cams, not on this engine. Next time you get a cam from comp or crane mic it!!! You might be suprised how off they are and with problems such as dips after the base circle before the lift which is good for a bounce. All within what they call "Acceptable tolerances".
Just general problem of after market parts in general.
We'll get them to make it right; if not for us then the next ones. I don't mine drilling and tapping knew holes; especially since before locating either of the 2 bell housings I was planning on making one from scratch!
Just general problem of after market parts in general.
We'll get them to make it right; if not for us then the next ones. I don't mine drilling and tapping knew holes; especially since before locating either of the 2 bell housings I was planning on making one from scratch!
quote:Originally posted by Pittcrew:
I knew there would be days like this.....
Ah, this is small stuff!
Gary,
I just got off the phone with Ross McCombs from Quicktime. We had been playing phone tag for a few days.Really nice guy.
I explained the problem I was having using the 8012 in a Pantera.
He had no Idea that there was another car that would use a different orientation.That is why the web site doesn't list a application as he thought there was only one application. I mentioned that Tim Meyer had bought one for a Pantera application also and he might hear from him. He seemed to recognize Tims name.
I guess there is a racing company that deals with GT40's(real and otherwise) and they are the ones that had designed the bellhousing for Quicktime. Ross said that company buys 100-200 bells a year for that application.
He said they did not have anything for my application(obvious since he didn't know the P car used one) but that he would look into having the exisiting inventory and future production drilled with both patterns. That way they can accomodate both applications. I asked him to make a note on their web site so people would know.
I told him I thought P car owners were using their small block bells because they are the only ones I know of that are SFI certified.Doesn't the racing sanctioning bodies require that? I know they do for Drag racing. Apparently no other P car owners have used the bell because this is the first he heard about a problem.
Ross said they would do the dual pattern on all their future ZF applications.
He said it was a simple change in the computor.
I told him that I was going to have mine drilled and he mentioned that I needed to be cautious about drill breakage. As he explained it to me the bolt pattern is drilled after welding and the notches by the holes are for a relief so the drill doesn't follow the bell and break as it goes through the hole. He said the bits they use are $100 ea and he didn't want to break them. He said the bell is formed at 180,000 psi and is much stronger than the mounting ring. He suggested starting the hole with at drill and finishing it with a end mill so it wouldn't have the wondering problem.
I talked to him about the flywheel and he said they list the 184 tooth because on a FE and a 460 that is the smallest you can go before the starter hits the block.
He said, (Just like you found out) that I could run a 176 tooth because there was room to move the starter if needed.He said the block is the deciding factor on the flywheel and maybe I could even go smaller that 176 if there is room but he didn't know for sure. He said their small block bells are designed for a 157 tooth flywheel.
Now you know what I know about it. Sorry this post is so wordy but I wanted you to have all the info he gave me.
I just got off the phone with Ross McCombs from Quicktime. We had been playing phone tag for a few days.Really nice guy.
I explained the problem I was having using the 8012 in a Pantera.
He had no Idea that there was another car that would use a different orientation.That is why the web site doesn't list a application as he thought there was only one application. I mentioned that Tim Meyer had bought one for a Pantera application also and he might hear from him. He seemed to recognize Tims name.
I guess there is a racing company that deals with GT40's(real and otherwise) and they are the ones that had designed the bellhousing for Quicktime. Ross said that company buys 100-200 bells a year for that application.
He said they did not have anything for my application(obvious since he didn't know the P car used one) but that he would look into having the exisiting inventory and future production drilled with both patterns. That way they can accomodate both applications. I asked him to make a note on their web site so people would know.
I told him I thought P car owners were using their small block bells because they are the only ones I know of that are SFI certified.Doesn't the racing sanctioning bodies require that? I know they do for Drag racing. Apparently no other P car owners have used the bell because this is the first he heard about a problem.
Ross said they would do the dual pattern on all their future ZF applications.
He said it was a simple change in the computor.
I told him that I was going to have mine drilled and he mentioned that I needed to be cautious about drill breakage. As he explained it to me the bolt pattern is drilled after welding and the notches by the holes are for a relief so the drill doesn't follow the bell and break as it goes through the hole. He said the bits they use are $100 ea and he didn't want to break them. He said the bell is formed at 180,000 psi and is much stronger than the mounting ring. He suggested starting the hole with at drill and finishing it with a end mill so it wouldn't have the wondering problem.
I talked to him about the flywheel and he said they list the 184 tooth because on a FE and a 460 that is the smallest you can go before the starter hits the block.
He said, (Just like you found out) that I could run a 176 tooth because there was room to move the starter if needed.He said the block is the deciding factor on the flywheel and maybe I could even go smaller that 176 if there is room but he didn't know for sure. He said their small block bells are designed for a 157 tooth flywheel.
Now you know what I know about it. Sorry this post is so wordy but I wanted you to have all the info he gave me.
Brook...BRAVO on the leg work!!!! I talked about it with Tim a little before I left for flight training. I have not been able to follow up as I will be consumed for the next week and a half.
The information you gave is excelent! Thank you for the info on drilling!
We get breaks durring the day so I do get a chance to check the emails ocasionally. Off to do laundry!
Gary
The information you gave is excelent! Thank you for the info on drilling!
We get breaks durring the day so I do get a chance to check the emails ocasionally. Off to do laundry!
Gary
quote:Originally posted by Pittcrew:
Ross said they would do the dual pattern on all their future ZF applications.
He said it was a simple change in the computor.
Since your bellhousing is unused, could you suggest swapping yours for a new one already drilled with the dual pattern? It would save you some time and aggrevation and insure it was done correctly.
Michael
Heck, just mount the ZF upside down like it is in the GT40. It will give you a lower center of gravity so your car will handle better. Just slow down for pot holes in the road though.
Michael,
While Ross said the change in the computor was a simple fix he didn't know when he would be able to incorporate it into the existing inventory and production.
He also said that he would have to figure out something for the relief notches in the bell.
Dual bolt patterns would double the amount of notches required for relief when drilling.
He wasnt sure how to address that.He also stated that the existing inventory does not have the notches and that might be a problem.
I guess the CNC machines drill and tap holes super fast which is why the breakage consideration.
I am taking my bellhousing to a good machine shop that will drill it. The operation will be done on a milling machine by hand so I feel I won't have a drill breakage problem. Locating the holes will be no problem.
Doing it this way I will have my bellhousing done by Monday and can move on to other aspects of the swap. No additional shipping time/cost and no waiting for Quick Time to get set up on their end.
As Gary had stated, getting the changes made is for people that want to do the swap or update to a SFI scattershield type bellhousing in the future.
I also made sure to point out that the Pantera runs the Transaxle right side up, its the GT40 guys that are upside down.
Sorry to highjack your forum Gary, you can have it back now.
While Ross said the change in the computor was a simple fix he didn't know when he would be able to incorporate it into the existing inventory and production.
He also said that he would have to figure out something for the relief notches in the bell.
Dual bolt patterns would double the amount of notches required for relief when drilling.
He wasnt sure how to address that.He also stated that the existing inventory does not have the notches and that might be a problem.
I guess the CNC machines drill and tap holes super fast which is why the breakage consideration.
I am taking my bellhousing to a good machine shop that will drill it. The operation will be done on a milling machine by hand so I feel I won't have a drill breakage problem. Locating the holes will be no problem.
Doing it this way I will have my bellhousing done by Monday and can move on to other aspects of the swap. No additional shipping time/cost and no waiting for Quick Time to get set up on their end.
As Gary had stated, getting the changes made is for people that want to do the swap or update to a SFI scattershield type bellhousing in the future.
I also made sure to point out that the Pantera runs the Transaxle right side up, its the GT40 guys that are upside down.
Sorry to highjack your forum Gary, you can have it back now.
quote:Originally posted by Pittcrew:
Sorry to highjack your forum Gary, you can have it back now.
LOL, Fine with me! Your doing good!
Bellhousing done with both patterns.
Drilled fine no problems at all.With all of the set up it took about 2 1/2 hours.
The holes catch the edge of the weld so we just went slow when breaking through. Tapped no problem. I tapped it to 3/8NC like the existing holes. My original bellhousing is 10mm-1.50.
Mounts to my ZF perfectly.
Drilled fine no problems at all.With all of the set up it took about 2 1/2 hours.
The holes catch the edge of the weld so we just went slow when breaking through. Tapped no problem. I tapped it to 3/8NC like the existing holes. My original bellhousing is 10mm-1.50.
Mounts to my ZF perfectly.
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Getting some work done to the Aluminum hood. Weld 2", let it cool, weld 2", etc. Grind it smooth, about 1/2 welded up so far. Coming out better then I expected:
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Looking good Gary !
Beautiful Car, Very nice work...
Are you going to incorporate the ducting to the Rad into the hood or mount it to the car?
The duct work will ne mounted to the car. It will block off all airflow under the car and leaves enough room for the brake MC and booster.
Have you chosen a clutch?
Have you chosen a clutch?
I haven't chosen a clutch yet.
I hung out at the Turbomustangs forum for a while when I was doing research on a turbo project. This was a few years ago.
A lot of the guys were complaining about driving through their Centerforce clutches when the boost came on early.
As a design characteristic, diaphram clutches need RPM to apply peak pressure. This is bad in a engine that develops a ton of low end torque like a small turbo application. By small I mean quick spooling.
The good side to the design is low pedal effort
.
The good side to a Long or Borg and Beck style is immediate high application pressure,which makes them good for drag racing, but the down side of high effort required to apply them.
Most of the high power guys on the turbomustangs forum went with this brand and were very happy.These appear to be diaphram clutches also but they work. I was going to talk to them when I got to that point.
http://www.specclutch.com/
IIRC didn't the Pantera require a pressure plate modification to clear the ZF bellhousing?
I don't think that will be a problem with the QT bell.
If you contact Spec let me know what they say.
I hung out at the Turbomustangs forum for a while when I was doing research on a turbo project. This was a few years ago.
A lot of the guys were complaining about driving through their Centerforce clutches when the boost came on early.
As a design characteristic, diaphram clutches need RPM to apply peak pressure. This is bad in a engine that develops a ton of low end torque like a small turbo application. By small I mean quick spooling.
The good side to the design is low pedal effort
.
The good side to a Long or Borg and Beck style is immediate high application pressure,which makes them good for drag racing, but the down side of high effort required to apply them.
Most of the high power guys on the turbomustangs forum went with this brand and were very happy.These appear to be diaphram clutches also but they work. I was going to talk to them when I got to that point.
http://www.specclutch.com/
IIRC didn't the Pantera require a pressure plate modification to clear the ZF bellhousing?
I don't think that will be a problem with the QT bell.
If you contact Spec let me know what they say.
The entire outside edge and the inside hole ahs all been welded up and smoothed. It is amazing how time consuming this is. The hood is hinged and now I am working on inner structure which is going well. I wasn't sure I would get this far with it. This is my first large aluminum from scratch project and so far it is close enough I could simply polish it and it would be ok:
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It looks excellent ... keep up the good work ... me i;m working on the floors.
Ron
Ron
Floor board replacement?