Thought I would get my build thread going while I wait for the car to turn up.
I bought the car from BHCC and they say the car has been in storage for a long time. I'm planning a full rebuild and RHD conversion, will respray the car the original white colour.
If anyone has seen this car or knows more about it I would love to hear about it.
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I just found out the weird front spoiler is a Gran Turismo item. I wondered of its origin, thanks ProvaMo. I plan to remove it though is there anyone interested in it?
Now to test a few things then stip down. Hopefully that ZF is ok
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Also motor is seized, looks like condensation has got into the engine via the intake. But engine number matches body so happy in that regard.
A bit of surface rust under seal but nothing to scary.
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Simon
quote:Originally posted by AlbanyGT40:
Cheers, will post up the whole process. Trying to decide about going back to standard flares or Group 5 Flares? Im liking standard but a lot of the body has been cut away....
Also motor is seized, looks like condensation has got into the engine via the intake. But engine number matches body so happy in that regard.
Another Pantera owner quite near to me has changed his car from left to right hand drive.
He had the dash made by an EX TVR man from the Blackpool factory and the quality is A1, he does of course have the mould, if you would like contact details let me know.
Peter with 3840 in Manchester England.
Original cars are the type I prefer, but its your motor car.
I don't know how to send you a PM. I went to the members section, could not find first or last name.
Thkx
There is a Guy local to me who makes a RHD dash but thanks for information.
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quote:Originally posted by AlbanyGT40:
Started on the flares today as you know the flares on my car never looked right. Today I chipped away the fibreglass and found that a previous Owner has sliced the guards bent them out to make a flare and fibreglassed over them. The fibreglass came off pretty easy. Plenty of metal to mess around with...
From the way the flares looked, I had my suspicions this is what they had done.
To much Bondo!
Kjeld
quote:Originally posted by Joules:quote:Originally posted by AlbanyGT40:
Started on the flares today as you know the flares on my car never looked right. Today I chipped away the fibreglass and found that a previous Owner has sliced the guards bent them out to make a flare and fibreglassed over them. The fibreglass came off pretty easy. Plenty of metal to mess around with...
From the way the flares looked, I had my suspicions this is what they had done.
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There is a "cavity" that runs forward if the bulkhead, above the lower sills. This area can collect fine sand and dust, which can be a rust-prone area. I vacuumed mine out very well, and put a bunch of bedliner-type stuff in there.
It probably doesn't help if corrosion is there already, but you will never have better access than now.....
Rocky
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quote:Originally posted by Sharkey:
Peter Hi it's Sharkey. Please PM your email address & fee so I can paypal you $ to inspect the GT5-S.
I don't know how to send you a PM. I went to the members section, could not find first or last name.
Thkx
No need Sharkey, thats what DeTomaso friends are for.
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Looking good!
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Simon
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keep us posted.
Simon
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What's the box to the right in the front compartment? Looks unfamiliar to me.
quote:Originally posted by AlbanyGT40:
Its the RHD conversion pedal box, similar to the LHD side box. I have converted the car to RHD but left all the LHD brackets in place so the car canrevert if needed.
Thanks. Sorry, I scrolled back now and found you had explained that in detail. Nice!
Is this typical of RHD cars?
The battery is going in the LHD pedal box recess. I will make a cover for it. I will use a new small Lithium battery. will be safely tucked away and look clean. I want to be able to put a bag in the front section tray so no dropped battery.
All the best Richard.
quote:Originally posted by AlbanyGT40:
The battery is going in the LHD pedal box recess. I will make a cover for it. I will use a new small Lithium battery. will be safely tucked away and look clean. I want to be able to put a bag in the front section tray so no dropped battery.
That was my thought when I saw the photos, ideal spot for a small high capacity battery.
For nor'easter; it is common to space the pedals forward a bit for us tall guys, I have a 1" pedal spacer on my car. 1.5" is about the max you can get before the booster interferes with the hood.
Simon
Not much to report, flares sitting on car. Winter here so no breaking the epoxy primer or bare metal.
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You have no idea how inspirational your progress posts are. My car has been off the road since 1991 and I dream of the car running and driving on the SO Cal roads again.
Just need to find a reputable, dependable shop in So Cal that knows Panteras.
quote:Originally posted by 72Pre-L and Aussie Falcon Guy:
1972 #3468.
Just need to find a reputable, dependable shop in So Cal that knows Panteras.
So Cal is the the epicenter of Pantera ownership. Have you reached out to the various clubs/owners to get recommendations? I'm sure there are several to chose from.
quote:Originally posted by 72Pre-L and Aussie Falcon Guy:
1972 #3468.
You have no idea how inspirational your progress posts are. My car has been off the road since 1991 and I dream of the car running and driving on the SO Cal roads again.
Just need to find a reputable, dependable shop in So Cal that knows Panteras.
Contact Tommy Hodges (Extreme Pantera) 1-562-301-0583 Tommy is in SoCal, Very Knowledgeable!
Thanks, I need some inspiration as well. Car is off the rotisserie and rolling again for transport to painter.
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Latest news on 3643, its at the panel beaters. Will be there for a few months.
Major panel work done on now, Painters turn to finish off. Was very nice seeing the car all nice and straight. Turns 3643 is a very solid car with very little rust.
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Besides the dropped battery, RHD cars would seem to need a flat firewall so the right seat can go back far enough to be comfortable driving. You can easily do this by reversing the motor mounts side to side and bending a shallow 'S' in the ZF tabs. This moves the whole engine back about 0.8". Stock wiring, plumbing and the gearshift rod all have this much adjustment without complication. Then you can change the way a stock alternator in a stock bracket mounts and drive it from the unused inner sheave on the A/C pulley, which removes another 1" of engine length and makes only the water pump & pulley the source of any remaining protrusion. Cut that part of the steel firewall door away that's no longer needed, redo the bubble upholstery and most people in the right seat will NOT be able to reach the front firewall with their toes.