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My buddy has a fab shop and he would consider building us parts if there was a response or need.

He built me these coolant tanks with the vent mod and they came in around 580 bucks and the next set would be better as revisions and requests are applied.

He is a journeyman power plant welder and he built a beautiful fuel tank for my boat.  He is willing to build a few fuel tanks if there is a need.

I have a spare fuel tank here that I will take down to him.

Stay tuned...Cooling_Systemx800_zps36134270-1swirltank2

   

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Those are pretty sweet.

Im not in the market (mine are done), but I’m impressed.

As a suggestion...  he could add a bead around the two main ports on the swirl tank to ensure the hoses stay on.

A bead roller would be best, but I’m not sure it would work on that heavy gauge aluminum tube.

Not criticizing - it’s beautiful work!



Rocky

Yes we thought about the beading and actually he was going to do it on these tanks both for the hoses and a no slip bead for mounting the tanks.  I was supposed to mock it up and bring them back but I stopped by there, they were sitting there done, so I snatched them and now I have my car back!...lol...

He also noted that instead of tigging in the male AN we should tig in a threaded bung so the port is damage serviceable, and we may clock the vent ports differently. These are all REV 01 items...

I wish I had a picture of my boat tank man, all SS tigged and baffled inside.  Love it...

So, chime in, don't be shy... Lay it on me.  What revisions do you guys see?

Stay tuned you guys...

Last edited by plt-1

Reference water inlets and outlets:

When we built water tanks for our race cars we would start with heavy wall aluminum tubing that had the correct ID and then machine the OD to the appropriate OD leaving a bead in place. This allowed us to leave a small ramp at the outside so the hose could slip on easier. The inside of the bead had basically a 90 degree cut to help retain the hose. We never popped a hose off or had leaks. Keep in mind that most common grades of aluminum oxidize (corrode) easily.

Thanks Mike, he has some hours under the hood. 

This is a rough set for me real quick.  We are looking at it and may do a run of ten sets.  The NPT bungs will let guys put 45's or whatever they like.  On my rough set they are fixed -6 so I have sweeping bends in alum hard line.  It could be tightened up and routed to suit with a variety of line material with just the NPT.  Options for everyone's car....

When I modified my coolant tanks, I installed (4) bungs in the header tank.
The two additional fittings are used for bleed lines attached to the rear of each cylinder head.

Also, I put the return line to the water pump in the bottom of the tank, so the
tank could be 'clocked' in any orientation without affecting the location of this fitting.

Mike

IMG_7363

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PLT, on the subject of fuel tanks:

Since you've got a spare gas tank on hand, can you measure the diameter of the hole for the fuel gauge sending unit?
I'm investigating some aftermarket sending units, and would like to verify that they would fit into that hole.

I'd rather not remove my sending unit at the moment, since we still have a few more driving days here in New England...

@mp, I would also compare the bolt patterns.  When I got Hall's stainless tank, as I recall neither my former "stock" sending unit nor the universal sending unit I was converting to fit the Hall tank, I had a friend helping who is highly skilled in welding, fluid mechanics, etc. who got me squared away.  Also with the bottom drain which the Hall tank drain did not match what I had researched in advance to be the stock plug size for my year.  But my first P-car having been a very early pushbutton, mismatches never surprise me.  FWIW.

@mpaschetto posted:

I'm investigating some aftermarket sending units, and would like to verify that they would fit into that hole.

Wilkinson has had a run of reproduction fuel senders made, also a Fiat X/19 fuel sender works, but at this point probably rarer than the Pantera one! If you do a PI site search you'll likely find some references to aftermarket units, I know some folks have done it.

Larry Stock's PPC in Carson City has about 20 fuel tank senders in stock last time I was there. Note there are two varieties but only the later one is available and is a true bolt-in for all tears of Panteras. This is the one with the built-in fuel-out line- in stock size only, so for big-power engines, recommend replacing the 5/16"OD line with a 3/8"OD.

Good job on the water tanks- I did the same offset mounting on mine- it promotes swirling and thus separates air. But why not include a pressure cap on the fill/swirl tank?

The reason I asked is, the overflow tank (the long one) does not normally have a pressure cap. Being open to the atmosphere in order to work as designed, it only gets a similar looking non-sealing cover to prevent splashing overflow coolant. The short swirl tank has the only pressure cap. Unless the car has a non-stock cooling system routing, or possibly the short tank is mounted low and that AN fitting connects to a hose going to a remote rad-cap somewhere convenient.

Which is how my homebuilt system works. I fabricated a duplicate outside-fill cap under a hinged cover in the right gill, for access to a remotely mounted radiator cap connected to a low mount swirl tank. Our car is an L model w/stock outside left-side fueling, so no need to open the deck lid for either refueling OR filling the radiator. Been rigged this way since the '90s and is very convenient. FWIW, my stock water temp sensor is mounted in the block for more accuracy, like millions of front-engine Fords.

I didn't think of hinging the whole gill, Percy- that would have been simpler! The first one of those I saw was on Guy Trigaux GT-4 racer #2860 and it looked slick!  I didn't want to cut my stock die-cast right gill, so decades ago I took some molding silicone and made a mold of the stock right gill, then cast a duplicate from fiberglas mat & epoxy. (Nowadays, you could print a gill.) Then I cut a 3-1/2" hole in the plastic gill and copied the stock left side fuel gill's hinge design in half-hard aluminum. I made a large 1 gallon aluminum swirl tank & bolted it down on the end of the right rocker panel. I ran a welded pipe with a rad-cap from the new swirl tank up to the proper area. All this was for service convenience with a stock look, and its worked well for us over the years. Few even notice the hinged cap.

Later, I modified a scrap Aviaid 10-qt oil pan for a mid-pan dipstick that reaches up between #3 & 4 header tubes and terminates in that same area under the gill opening. So I can check oil AND water level without opening the decklid, and along with modern small dia. deck struts, it clears the whole engine corner for much better #3 & 4 spark plug access.  A 351-W dipstick & guide tube from a van is extremely long and can be cut down to fit almost anything. That allowed me to remove the stock top routing of the Pantera dipstick & clean up that area, too. Incidentally, all this is a copy of the positioning that Porsche uses on the mid-engined Boxter for their remote radiator cap and oil dipstick.

One of these days I'll install the modified pan and write an illustrated article for the POCA Newsletter....

PLT-1, that sounds like a fair price if he's using sheet stainless (321 or better) for the gas tanks. Note that there are TWO different Pantera  fuel tank designs that do NOT interchange in any way. The first is for pushbuttons and very early '71s. In those cars the upper subframe is totally different from all other Panteras and their tanks  which snuggle close  to that upper frame rail only fit early '71s (less than 300 cars). The second design is what's shown on your post and I believe fit all production Panteras including GT5 & GT-5s.

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