Carb and Intake Upgrade

George,

quote:

Could that be why once in a while if I stop quickly I'm getting a quick smell of gas? [quote]

Yes, it's possible that this is where the gas smell if coming from, but there are also other possibilities.

[QUOTE]If I remove it, what should I use for a vent for the fuel cell?

If you removed the carbon canister, you will need to run a vent line to an area that is away from any heat source and away from the cabin. A filter needs to be install at the far end of this line, as air is exchanged between the atmosphere and the fuel tank. When the car is parked, air moves out of the tank as the fuel warms and is drawn back into the tank as the fuel cools. When the car is driven, fuel is being removed from the tank (by the engine) and needs to be replaced with outside air. If the vent line becomes plugged (or is capped), a vacuum will occur when the engine is running and fuel will cease to flow to the carb. This could also collapse the fuel tank. This assumes that you are using a non vented fuel cap.

The carbon canister contains activated charcoal (probably dead after all these years) that is supposed to store the gas vapors until the engine is started. These stored vapors are then drawn into the air cleaner during engine run. I would hook this hose to the air cleaner (IMHO). There should be a fitting on the right side of your stock air cleaner to connect the hose from the carbon canister.

John

When I bought the car, it had the stock air cleaner on it and that hose was not connected.
I'm quickly finding out that my car is not as "Stock" as I thought. So I'm wondering if I should re-connect that line, or find another method of venting the fuel cell. Anyone have any thoughts?

quote:

another method of venting the fuel cell. Anyone have any thoughts?

I have no canister,

My vent line leaves the gas tank and runs down inside the tank shield to the very bottom, where it vents to the outside air. No filter on the end.

Works fine for me.

Larry

Looks like your oil deflector on the rockers are installed incorrectly, shouldn't the oil shield be on top deflecting oil from the pushrod?

quote:

Originally posted by geoshanna:
Valve Train looks almost new!

This might be helpful information http://www.panteraplace.com/page131.htm

Mike

quote:

Originally posted by DW:
George (CfH)

Would you please clarify your comment for me? Are you saying that the turkey pan serves no purpose if you are using a stock or stock type intake manifold and are using a block off plate to cover the opening shown below?

Thanks,
Dennis

Covering that hole does not block exhaust heat from the intake manifold. My advice would be to continue using the "turkey pan" in that situation.

[QUOTE]Originally posted by GT5KR:
Looks like your oil deflector on the rockers are installed incorrectly, shouldn't the oil shield be on top deflecting oil from the pushrod?

I'm not sure. This was the first time I've taken the covers off. I'll look at the paperwork I got with the car to see if the previous owner had any head work done.

Yes the oil deflectors are turned around.

-G

Found some info on the web...so you better turn them around.

The purpose of the rocker arm oil deflector is the following:

When oil is sent up the pushrods, it passes through the rocker arm and hits the oil deflector. The purporse of the deflector is to stop the stream of oil from jetting over the rocker arm and instead the oil is redirected to the rocker arm fulcrum, thereby lubricating it. Lack of lubrication causes premature wear of this powdered metal item.

I was afraid of this. Could that be why I get a lot of vapors past the breathers? Besides the obvious part about turning them around, is there anything else I need to do? Like adjustments or tourque specs?

Thanks

Can someone point me in the right direction on the easiest way/method to correct the problem with my oil directors on my rockers? I'm told they're facing the wrong direction.

Thanks
George

George,

The only way to turn the oil deflectors around is to unbolt the rockers.

John

John,
I appreciate the reply and I do understand that they have to be turned around. My question was more to how to properly do this? Do I need to rotate the crank until there is no pressure from the push rods and is there a specific tourque that they have to be tightened to?

George

Yes, you have to rotate the crank to have the cam in a certain position so there is no load on the lifter and spring. Back off all the bolts and rotate the deflectors around and torque the bolts down in sequence, I believe the torque is 20 ft lbs. I have scan the rebuild manual for the sequence. Hope this helps.

That is a great little cheat-sheet diagram.

Thanks for sharing.

Larry

Torque is 18 to 25 ft lbs. Like the footnote at the bottom of GT5KR's scan says, just follow the firing order if you get confused.

Guys, thank you very much! That is exactly what I was looking for!

George

George,
You really don't need to bother with taking the load off of the rocker arm before moving the shield around.......

I don't know why it would make a difference other than unloading the lifter faster....have never seen a Ford document recommend this.

Just loosen, flip the deflector, and tighten to proper torque spec.

Steve

Guys,
Thanks for the very helpful information on the Oil Deflectors. That has now been dealt with.

New Fuel rail for the Demon carb with a port to put a feul pressure gage. (Soon to come, just don't tell my wife)