anybody have a source for an afordable tool to remove the carrier bearings? 

Ive been serching ebay for the factory tool but have come across nothing. 

I have 8 or 9 snap on/OTC pullers but non work in the small  area they give you to remove them. 

Thanks joe. 

Original Post

Most shops use a hydraulic press against the splined shaft end. An 8" thick home made spacer should be used on the other end to barely clear the axle flange. Pressing directly on the stock brake rotor surface will usually crack them. My spacer catches the sloping edge of the brake rotor center, NOT the braking surface of the rotor. You can make the pressing-out easier by individually pressing each wheel stud  towards the carrier; even though the studs cannot be removed yet, it reduces the force necessary to move the axle. And if it seems to take more than a small 10-ton press delivers, you likely have something wrong with your fixture.

Force needed to push the axle out depends on the assembly- I've seen some rear uprights in which the axles FELL OUT of the bearings while others were super-tight. The bearing mfgrs specify 0.0005-0.0008" interference fit between bearings and axle shaft. This takes a 4-place 0-2" micrometer to check and few ever do. Once the thing is disassembled, re-flatten the steel bearing retainer on the outside of the carrier; high press force will bend it into a cone shape so on reassembly, the new parts will be loose even at the required 450-ft-lbs of torque on the axle nut. Don't worry about stripping the threads- that size thread fails at 1200 ft-lbs according to the SAE.  And if you can't get the axle nut loose because someone Lock-tited it on, simply cut it off and use a new nut (available from all the vendors). Ideally, OEM split-nuts shouldn't be re-used anyway.

Ron, its an -2,

MJ, the carrier canot be removed with the bearings in place, at least that is what i have been told, and i have tried, it will not clear the case. 

There is a factory tool designed to pull the bearing while still in the trans, i am well aware of how to do the job, being an ase master tech for 26 years, Ive done lots of ring and pinon set ups.

i appreciate the info you gave, but heating with a torch in the case is not an option, and with only a .0015-.002”  interference fit, the bearing will be easy enough to remove, i know there are kits available, i just dont want to spend 1k on a kit if there is another option out there.

as a last resort i will be cutting off the bearing cage  (i will then Have the clerance to remove the carrier) then use a bearing seperator to pull the inner races.  

I will use a bearing heater to install the new ones with the carrier inside its housing. 

Thanks joe. 

 Forrest is right, you cannot remove the diff by simply by just removing the side covers.

But you can remove the eight Allen screws that hold the differential assembly together. Once these are removed you can work the hardware out.

Be sure that you keep everything in it’s EXACT orientation and reassemble the system EXACTLY as it came apart, and I mean EXACTLY.

See my thread on 5357, about the fourth page, to see my journey. It can be done....

Ace, 

 

That is why I had asked if the trans in question was a -1 or -2. The -1 diff separates where the ring gear bolts on. The -2 separates at the small end. Take the (8) M8 bolts out, separate the cover from the main diff, lift the diff out ,then the cover. Cut the outside cages off, grab the inside race with a bearing separator and press off the inside race. 

-1 gets a but more complicated. 

 

Ron

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