quote:I said "almost". It's like being just a little pregnant.
Hahahahaha!
Hahahahaha!
Hahahahaha!
Yes, the same as the shift linkage. The U-Joints are interchangeable.
@ Hockey Dude. What power steering unit did you use on this? This entire thread has me hooked. "Damn the pusher man!"
This is the unit I used:
http://www.mgocspares.co.uk/ac..._Power_steering.html
Not an easy retrofit. I made a number of changes including changing the steering rack to fix bump steer; not just move it to a different range like the bump steer shim kit.
I upped the caster to about 7 degrees.
The nice thing is a switch to turn it on and off.
http://www.mgocspares.co.uk/ac..._Power_steering.html
Not an easy retrofit. I made a number of changes including changing the steering rack to fix bump steer; not just move it to a different range like the bump steer shim kit.
I upped the caster to about 7 degrees.
The nice thing is a switch to turn it on and off.
I used a EPS unit out of a Equinox. Cheap, strong enough for an SUV, which means it should be fine for turning the Pantera's wheels, plus its OEM and American, so reliability and availability isn't an issue.
Splines are not the same as the Pantera, they're a 16.5mm 36 spline on the output and GM's funky 23 spline on the input. I had to cut them down, sleeve them and then pinned on some new U-Joints that would work. By keeping the entire assembly in the front subframe, I was able to work the set up so I could move the steering intermediate shaft up, which means I have a lot more foot room than before
The EPS power controller is from EBAY, a guy in Portugal makes them and sells them. Its adjustable, the pot goes into the speed signal input of the OEM computer and tricks it, that's how you get the adjustable power assist. Plus it has an adjustable pot on the circuit board for the torque sensor sensitivity.
Been trying to figure out how to take one of those cheapo GPS speedo receivers and work it so that I have a speed adjustable power assist, plus overall assistance control.... but I hate electrons and not quite sure how to turn pulses per mile into resistance without a basic stamp set up or Arduino (which I haven't messed with).
I've got less than 400 bucks in my set up including all the U-joints and shafts, controller, etc. I rather build then buy. Every kit I buy I end up having to mod anyway to get it to my liking.
The whole set up is connected to a custom low bump steer steering rack and mount. Car should drive much better (hopefully).
Equinox's have dull steering, but I'm hopeful that's just because of the full power assist, with reduced assist hopefully its better. If not, I'll yank the unit and replace with a straight DD shaft and I'm just out a few hundred bucks and some time.
Dave
Splines are not the same as the Pantera, they're a 16.5mm 36 spline on the output and GM's funky 23 spline on the input. I had to cut them down, sleeve them and then pinned on some new U-Joints that would work. By keeping the entire assembly in the front subframe, I was able to work the set up so I could move the steering intermediate shaft up, which means I have a lot more foot room than before
The EPS power controller is from EBAY, a guy in Portugal makes them and sells them. Its adjustable, the pot goes into the speed signal input of the OEM computer and tricks it, that's how you get the adjustable power assist. Plus it has an adjustable pot on the circuit board for the torque sensor sensitivity.
Been trying to figure out how to take one of those cheapo GPS speedo receivers and work it so that I have a speed adjustable power assist, plus overall assistance control.... but I hate electrons and not quite sure how to turn pulses per mile into resistance without a basic stamp set up or Arduino (which I haven't messed with).
I've got less than 400 bucks in my set up including all the U-joints and shafts, controller, etc. I rather build then buy. Every kit I buy I end up having to mod anyway to get it to my liking.
The whole set up is connected to a custom low bump steer steering rack and mount. Car should drive much better (hopefully).
Equinox's have dull steering, but I'm hopeful that's just because of the full power assist, with reduced assist hopefully its better. If not, I'll yank the unit and replace with a straight DD shaft and I'm just out a few hundred bucks and some time.
Dave
If somebody needs help whit buying and shipping from one of those electric power steerings,I am glad if I can do something for you.
Simon Vels , The Netherlands
Simon Vels , The Netherlands
Dave. Is the DD shaft in the Pantera metric and can I source DD bar stock here?
I was thinking the same thing with sleeves and pinning to mate the 17mm and 14mm shafts together.
There is an adjustable "rehostat" all taped up into the harness on the Dutch "kit".
The shaft connection to the steering wheel is also concealed by the Pantera tube so I can see what they did but that undoubtedly is the GM sourced unit, then modified to fit the car.
You need the GM "brain" with it to provide the boost variation supplied to it by the VSS.
The sensitivity adjustment in the kit undoubtedly minimizes the boost provided in the Pantera. You aren't going to need much unless you are a Gp4 or 5 car.
Toyota also uses one of these units in the Celica but the housing puts the electric motor on the right side.
All in all, a very interesting idea and the GM sourced componenets are easy to find.
I need to find the 17mm-36 u joints. Worst comes to worst, I will wind up getting greasy at a pick and pull. Already found a motor that looks like it will work fine like the Dutch kit but there is going to be some case milling and bracket construction necessary to make it a simple bolt in.
That's ok though. That kind of stuff I'm good with. I'll just paint it black when it's done.
The VSS is already here. It's a Motorcraft service part.
As long as I don't need to weld aluminum I'm ok.
I was thinking the same thing with sleeves and pinning to mate the 17mm and 14mm shafts together.
There is an adjustable "rehostat" all taped up into the harness on the Dutch "kit".
The shaft connection to the steering wheel is also concealed by the Pantera tube so I can see what they did but that undoubtedly is the GM sourced unit, then modified to fit the car.
You need the GM "brain" with it to provide the boost variation supplied to it by the VSS.
The sensitivity adjustment in the kit undoubtedly minimizes the boost provided in the Pantera. You aren't going to need much unless you are a Gp4 or 5 car.
Toyota also uses one of these units in the Celica but the housing puts the electric motor on the right side.
All in all, a very interesting idea and the GM sourced componenets are easy to find.
I need to find the 17mm-36 u joints. Worst comes to worst, I will wind up getting greasy at a pick and pull. Already found a motor that looks like it will work fine like the Dutch kit but there is going to be some case milling and bracket construction necessary to make it a simple bolt in.
That's ok though. That kind of stuff I'm good with. I'll just paint it black when it's done.
The VSS is already here. It's a Motorcraft service part.
As long as I don't need to weld aluminum I'm ok.
The potentiometer that was taped up in the harness in the first few EZ Electric kits was non-functional. In the case of the EZ kits, you can either have the amount of assist varied by a potentiometer or you can have it varied by speed, via a VSS, but you can't have both. With the EZ kit, even at full assist (parking lot speeds), the steering cannot be described as light. It's about the same as a new BMW or Porsche. By about 40 mph it just feels like your old manual steering. If you're not happy with the level of assist, EZ can adjust it for you, by supplying new firmware for the unit's ECU.
quote:Originally posted by David_Nunn:
The potentiometer that was taped up in the harness in the first few EZ Electric kits was non-functional. In the case of the EZ kits, you can either have the amount of assist varied by a potentiometer or you can have it varied by speed, via a VSS, but you can't have both. With the EZ kit, even at full assist (parking lot speeds), the steering cannot be described as light. It's about the same as a new BMW or Porsche. By about 40 mph it just feels like your old manual steering. If you're not happy with the level of assist, EZ can adjust it for you, by supplying new firmware for the unit's ECU.
How do you install that firmware into the ECU? Is there an input port on it?
Well. I drove a new Cayman and the steering was just right, I didn't even think about it. As a matter of fact, I'd have to read the specs to see if it even had power assist? I was busy being amazed at the PK or is that a PDK transmission?
I'm thinking that the EZ system sourced a unit from another vehicle that I'm not even aware of yet? I'm presuming they modified the one of the US sourced units from a GM. The components such as the motor and brain I think are the same but theirs has got the small hinged mounting seen on the Toyota, not the GM and the casting puts the motor up to the left at about 45 degrees in relationship to that.
The GM can be modified but was wondering if the EZ is sourced out of a Euro vehicle?
EZ Uses a NSK motor system. Not sure what it is out of, but its a tiny system, even smaller than the Corsa B and C systems. Great for packaging but the down side small system = small power.
...see this is why I dont like "kits" you can have VSS adjustment or pot adjustment with EZ. I want both (insert colorful metaphor here), even better I rather program a curve via the Arduino....if that's possible... I need to read up on that little chip.
Doug, the pantera is standard 3/4DD shafts, which makes life easy since you can get them anywhere. You can see the GM computer in the photos (big gray box), I had to relocate it from its stock location, but its not huge and yes you need it.
Let me know if you're serious and I can help you out with the shaft sizes, joints, cut planes, U-joints, etc. I still have the templates for all the custom bits as well, since I was considering kitting this out with the new steering rack at one point, but seems like no one is interested in ~400 dollar power steering.
If you had directions and templates, I would think its about a 10-15 hour job to fab and install everything. This is assuming you do everything including motor mods, wiring, fab the chassis brackets etc, and of course that you can weld and cut some metal, this motor is far from a bolt in.
...see this is why I dont like "kits" you can have VSS adjustment or pot adjustment with EZ. I want both (insert colorful metaphor here), even better I rather program a curve via the Arduino....if that's possible... I need to read up on that little chip.
Doug, the pantera is standard 3/4DD shafts, which makes life easy since you can get them anywhere. You can see the GM computer in the photos (big gray box), I had to relocate it from its stock location, but its not huge and yes you need it.
Let me know if you're serious and I can help you out with the shaft sizes, joints, cut planes, U-joints, etc. I still have the templates for all the custom bits as well, since I was considering kitting this out with the new steering rack at one point, but seems like no one is interested in ~400 dollar power steering.
If you had directions and templates, I would think its about a 10-15 hour job to fab and install everything. This is assuming you do everything including motor mods, wiring, fab the chassis brackets etc, and of course that you can weld and cut some metal, this motor is far from a bolt in.
quote:Originally posted by HockeyDude:
EZ Uses a NSK motor system. Not sure what it is out of, but its a tiny system, even smaller than the Corsa B and C systems. Great for packaging but the down side small system = small power.
...see this is why I dont like "kits" you can have VSS adjustment or pot adjustment with EZ. I want both (insert colorful metaphor here), even better I rather program a curve via the Arduino....if that's possible... I need to read up on that little chip.
Doug, the pantera is standard 3/4DD shafts, which makes life easy since you can get them anywhere. You can see the GM computer in the photos (big gray box), I had to relocate it from its stock location, but its not huge and yes you need it.
Let me know if you're serious and I can help you out with the shaft sizes, joints, cut planes, U-joints, etc. I still have the templates for all the custom bits as well, since I was considering kitting this out with the new steering rack at one point, but seems like no one is interested in ~400 dollar power steering.
If you had directions and templates, I would think its about a 10-15 hour job to fab and install everything. This is assuming you do everything including motor mods, wiring, fab the chassis brackets etc, and of course that you can weld and cut some metal, this motor is far from a bolt in.
I have a GM Chevy Equinox unit here. I didn't get the joints and DD shaft with it. That's why I asked.
I want to put it in the steering column like EZ did. I think it is just a mater of fabricated bracketry, an adapter coupling that gets pinned and shortening the long input shaft of the ps unit?
If it doesn't work out. I'm out $60. I already have the VSS...but if it works out, walla!
It has to wait until I get the remote power decklid install done. I'm waiting on the parts and the control board. There have been unexpected delays.
The initial plans were to have it done for early March. Look at the date.
I've never looked for DD shafts. That's why I know little about the sizing of them. I don't think that will be a steep learning curve though?
You're going to have it cut it down, and even then I'm not sure if you'll get it to fit in the column/dash area. I tried that first and the housing just stuck down so far I wasn't happy with it. Looked like a knee basher to me. Be careful with that stamped steel column support too, you can watch it move ~1/16" of an inch just cycling the wheels with no load, if you cut it please beef it back up.
You will most likely need to cut the shafts, that thing is huge with the stock shafts, and the orientation of the column shaft is right into the clutch pedal.
Sleeve the cut shafts with .750 OD .049" wall SS tube, and install 3/4 smooth bore U-joints on them with whatever connections you need on the opposite ends. Pin with .250" dowels/shoulder bolts and weld in for comfort if necessary. Dont use .125" dowels, they snapped on me just cycling the system (I tried them first due to the small shaft size and the OE .125" pin in the system).
How are you hooking up the equinox VSS? Its a reluctor ring with a hall effect sensor right?
You will most likely need to cut the shafts, that thing is huge with the stock shafts, and the orientation of the column shaft is right into the clutch pedal.
Sleeve the cut shafts with .750 OD .049" wall SS tube, and install 3/4 smooth bore U-joints on them with whatever connections you need on the opposite ends. Pin with .250" dowels/shoulder bolts and weld in for comfort if necessary. Dont use .125" dowels, they snapped on me just cycling the system (I tried them first due to the small shaft size and the OE .125" pin in the system).
How are you hooking up the equinox VSS? Its a reluctor ring with a hall effect sensor right?
quote:Originally posted by HockeyDude:
You're going to have it cut it down, and even then I'm not sure if you'll get it to fit in the column/dash area. I tried that first and the housing just stuck down so far I wasn't happy with it. Looked like a knee basher to me. Be careful with that stamped steel column support too, you can watch it move ~1/16" of an inch just cycling the wheels with no load, if you cut it please beef it back up.
You will most likely need to cut the shafts, that thing is huge with the stock shafts, and the orientation of the column shaft is right into the clutch pedal.
Sleeve the cut shafts with .750 OD .049" wall SS tube, and install 3/4 smooth bore U-joints on them with whatever connections you need on the opposite ends. Pin with .250" dowels/shoulder bolts and weld in for comfort if necessary. Dont use .125" dowels, they snapped on me just cycling the system (I tried them first due to the small shaft size and the OE .125" pin in the system).
How are you hooking up the equinox VSS? Its a reluctor ring with a hall effect sensor right?
Yes, the column you can see move now.
EZ did it on the column and it looks like they just machined the housing down? They relocated the "brain" on a fabricated steel bracket up tight and parallel to the column.
The existing "pivot" on the ps unit looks like it probably will be useless. There are three machined stud holes in the face and that is probably where this bracket will connect it to the dash.
The VSS is a Motorcraft unit. Just splices in between the ZF and the speedo cable.
Shortening the shaft is simple enough.
It is going under the dash or it is not going. Simple enough. When I pull the column out and see how this unit fits or doesn't fit, that will be the go or no go.
I would think a nice grade 8 bolt would be sufficient to pin the coupler?
It all looks very doable but the Devil is in the details. "We" shall see.
If it doesn't work out, no big deal. Wifey always knows where I am. Either in the shop or the garage. She doesn't have to call around to the bars to find me.
Well dang, that VSS wont work for me, no speedo cable on a 996TT gearbox.
Good luck getting it to fit up in the dash, I tried that route and gave up, if you can get it to fit up there my hat off to you. Let me know what you come up with.
I bolted mine through the long hole through the housing (for a 5/16" bolt) that's the main mount point. I use the 3 blind bolt holes on the front face to keep it from rotating up and down due to torque.
My suggestion is dowels or a shoulder bolt. I live in the aerospace world where threads in bearing are a big no-no.
FYI the wiring is very very fiddly, especially if you have to relocate the control box. Gauge infinity wires.
Good luck getting it to fit up in the dash, I tried that route and gave up, if you can get it to fit up there my hat off to you. Let me know what you come up with.
I bolted mine through the long hole through the housing (for a 5/16" bolt) that's the main mount point. I use the 3 blind bolt holes on the front face to keep it from rotating up and down due to torque.
My suggestion is dowels or a shoulder bolt. I live in the aerospace world where threads in bearing are a big no-no.
FYI the wiring is very very fiddly, especially if you have to relocate the control box. Gauge infinity wires.
quote:Originally posted by HockeyDude:
Well dang, that VSS wont work for me, no speedo cable on a 996TT gearbox.
Good luck getting it to fit up in the dash, I tried that route and gave up, if you can get it to fit up there my hat off to you. Let me know what you come up with.
I bolted mine through the long hole through the housing (for a 5/16" bolt) that's the main mount point. I use the 3 blind bolt holes on the front face to keep it from rotating up and down due to torque.
My suggestion is dowels or a shoulder bolt. I live in the aerospace world where threads in bearing are a big no-no.
FYI the wiring is very very fiddly, especially if you have to relocate the control box. Gauge infinity wires.
It may be the minimum length necessary to get it into the column that could be the kabosh?
It doesn't look like the wiring needs to cut or spliced at all, but forewarned is forearmed.
Yes on the threads. I want to stretch the bolt and not bend it through the threads. I don't think a stress analysis is necessary on this coupling though?
Yup. Most people don't notice the wobble in the steering column mounting. That's either 20 or 22 gauge steel up there. I think the later?
I was thinking about the torque it applies. Looks like the size of a Japanese starter motor. Lots of torque in those suckers.
The aluminum housing can be machined down some. The length of the motor may also be an issue.
Cost me $60. It isn't a tragedy if it doesn't work out.
What is the NSK system? I can't find any cross references to that. I see the Opel B & C units. Those have smaller motors but would need to be hacked up more that the one I have.
Did you remove the GM fine spline on output shaft to shorten it also? There's not much of a stub to cut on mine on that side?
Motor is a kyosho unit, and it huge, with 50 amp fusing, so I except it to be pretty impressive with turning the wheels. It is the size of a large starter motor.
If you need to relocate the OEM control box, you will need to cut and lengthen 4 itsy bitsy wires. There's a very fragile connector on the control box for these wires, but after about 30 mins of gentle prying I admitted defeat and just cut them. Be careful, they're like 6 strand wires (I'm serious like 6 tiny brass strands under the sheathing), and only enough room to have 1 or 2 screw ups before your SOL.
Also, if you didnt get the connectors from the pick-a-part you're going to be soldering wire to some tiny little blades. I EBAY'd my motor, so no connectors. Best to just cut the plastic connector shroud (bodysaw) so you can cleanly solder. Pot the soldered connector in with electrical insulating silicone (DC 748 works well).
Not sure if you're going to be able to take enough off the housing to keep your knees comfy. That gear set is pretty large. I would have needed about an 1" off the radius to feel comfortable with it in the cabin.
Regarding the length, I cut all the splines off mine on both sides. Its still in the car so I can't give you an accurate measurement, but I shortened it about as much as I could.
I think the NSK is out of a little Fiat or Alfa or something. Guessing its not over here in the states.
Yup dirt cheap. I spent more on the three new steering U-joints then I did on everything else combined.
If you need to relocate the OEM control box, you will need to cut and lengthen 4 itsy bitsy wires. There's a very fragile connector on the control box for these wires, but after about 30 mins of gentle prying I admitted defeat and just cut them. Be careful, they're like 6 strand wires (I'm serious like 6 tiny brass strands under the sheathing), and only enough room to have 1 or 2 screw ups before your SOL.
Also, if you didnt get the connectors from the pick-a-part you're going to be soldering wire to some tiny little blades. I EBAY'd my motor, so no connectors. Best to just cut the plastic connector shroud (bodysaw) so you can cleanly solder. Pot the soldered connector in with electrical insulating silicone (DC 748 works well).
Not sure if you're going to be able to take enough off the housing to keep your knees comfy. That gear set is pretty large. I would have needed about an 1" off the radius to feel comfortable with it in the cabin.
Regarding the length, I cut all the splines off mine on both sides. Its still in the car so I can't give you an accurate measurement, but I shortened it about as much as I could.
I think the NSK is out of a little Fiat or Alfa or something. Guessing its not over here in the states.
Yup dirt cheap. I spent more on the three new steering U-joints then I did on everything else combined.
quote:Originally posted by HockeyDude:
Motor is a kyosho unit, and it huge, with 50 amp fusing, so I except it to be pretty impressive with turning the wheels. It is the size of a large starter motor.
If you need to relocate the OEM control box, you will need to cut and lengthen 4 itsy bitsy wires. There's a very fragile connector on the control box for these wires, but after about 30 mins of gentle prying I admitted defeat and just cut them. Be careful, they're like 6 strand wires (I'm serious like 6 tiny brass strands under the sheathing), and only enough room to have 1 or 2 screw ups before your SOL.
Also, if you didnt get the connectors from the pick-a-part you're going to be soldering wire to some tiny little blades. I EBAY'd my motor, so no connectors. Best to just cut the plastic connector shroud (bodysaw) so you can cleanly solder. Pot the soldered connector in with electrical insulating silicone (DC 748 works well).
Not sure if you're going to be able to take enough off the housing to keep your knees comfy. That gear set is pretty large. I would have needed about an 1" off the radius to feel comfortable with it in the cabin.
Regarding the length, I cut all the splines off mine on both sides. Its still in the car so I can't give you an accurate measurement, but I shortened it about as much as I could.
I think the NSK is out of a little Fiat or Alfa or something. Guessing its not over here in the states.
Yup dirt cheap. I spent more on the three new steering U-joints then I did on everything else combined.
I liked the bigger motor better than the Nissan version. Should make the steering effortless I would think?
I have the sockets for both. Those are GM Delco seriveable at $50 each if need be but got the little one with a pigtail.
Still trying to figure out how to get the cover off of the brain without snapping off the tabs?
Those little connectors to the board may have industrial crazy glue on them.
Hard to tell how much room this unit will take? I'm sure something like all of the available space, which ain't much.
Bracing the eps unit may turn out to be somewhat of an issue with the torque of that motor.
All experimental at this point. The eps unit is the "fuseable link" and is going to get cut up before the car does.
If this one doesn't fit, there are other alternatives but this is worthy of further investigation, not the least of which is does the motor have too much torque and is going to snap any pin that is going to go through the shafts?
I appreciate your input. Thanks.
Found a better candidate. Fiat Seicento. Look at this thing.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/FIAT-S...&hash=item487226427b
There's your NSK motor! Yup that's it. There's one with an adjustable column also. Oh boy! Now I can't concentrate! Who needs porn? This is better?
Grande Punto.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuin...&hash=item35c9ba3e1c
I don't like that caged bearing so far up the shaft though? Gonna have to do surgery on this one. Shush! The Doctor is concentrating now.
I hate looking at this stuff. Now I think I can speak Italian? Yea right...that will get my face slapped for sure?
Fiat would be in keeping with the "tradition" of this car though? Lots of Fiat stuff on it already from Detomaso.
This one might be good too.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Univer...em4182791101&vxp=mtr
If you look closely at it you will notice that it looks a lot like a modified Fiat Sceicento.
These guys didn't know what a VSS is though. I had to explain it to them.
This is the unit that appears to be used in the EZ kit.
FIAT SEICENTO EPS ELECTRIC POWER STEERING COLUMN + ECU 46536786 PW22BD0006
It is from a Fiat Seicento, which is the 600 series. It is from the right hand drive version.
I did some research on it and Fiat owners have been having a lot of issues with it. Lots of warranty replacements apparently.
That model is not sold in the US, at least as a right hand drive it isn't. It is presumptuous on my part to think that the left hand drive has the motor on the right of the steering column but that's what I think Fiat did with the car.
The most disturbing information that shows on it is it blows out the fuse a lot. a 60 amp fuse. Think about that?
The 600 is a little car with very little load on this eps unit. Caution should prevail in a Pantera particularly since you need to trim sheet metal out of an already light duty mounting in the car and you are in addition removing 2 or the four original Pantera mounting bolts of the steering column.
With the EZ kit mounted in the car, you can see the column wiggling as the unit applies torque to the column.
In theory this is all a great idea but I think I am probably going to pass on it.
Best of luck to all who choose to press on with this.
FIAT SEICENTO EPS ELECTRIC POWER STEERING COLUMN + ECU 46536786 PW22BD0006
It is from a Fiat Seicento, which is the 600 series. It is from the right hand drive version.
I did some research on it and Fiat owners have been having a lot of issues with it. Lots of warranty replacements apparently.
That model is not sold in the US, at least as a right hand drive it isn't. It is presumptuous on my part to think that the left hand drive has the motor on the right of the steering column but that's what I think Fiat did with the car.
The most disturbing information that shows on it is it blows out the fuse a lot. a 60 amp fuse. Think about that?
The 600 is a little car with very little load on this eps unit. Caution should prevail in a Pantera particularly since you need to trim sheet metal out of an already light duty mounting in the car and you are in addition removing 2 or the four original Pantera mounting bolts of the steering column.
With the EZ kit mounted in the car, you can see the column wiggling as the unit applies torque to the column.
In theory this is all a great idea but I think I am probably going to pass on it.
Best of luck to all who choose to press on with this.
The unit does the work for you, i.e. the force you otherwise would have to apply yourself on the steering column - whether the "input" force comes from an electrical motor, or human hands makes little to no difference imo...
That said, the steering column attachment points in a Pantera are kind of weak, but I never heard of a column coming loose so.
That said, the steering column attachment points in a Pantera are kind of weak, but I never heard of a column coming loose so.
Doug,
Thoughtless speculation on your part. If you can't or won't afford the EZ system, feel free to "scab" together a power steering system from junkyard parts but don't try to convince others that the EZ system isn't good, just to make yourself feel better about not having it. If you had purchased an EZ system, or had first hand knowledge of it, your comments would be valid.
As of a year ago, EZ had sold more than twenty Pantera kits without a complaint or problems. Without exception, the owners love it. Furthermore, any sheetmetal that's removed in the installation is replaced by brackets that are far stronger than what's been removed. EZ has also received TÜV certification for the kit, which is the gold standard in safety certifications.
As Kid wrote above, if your steering column doesn't "wiggle" when "you" apply torque to the column, why would it "wiggle" when the EPAS motor applies exactly the same amount of torque? The obvious answer is, it wouldn't.
Hemmingway wrote: "Pheasant hunting is worth whatever you have to pay to do it" and some of us feel the same way about modifications where safety is concerned.
The only EPAS system that is probably better than the EZ system is made by DC Electronics in the UK. It is compact and uses user programmable MAPS to determine levels of assist vs. speed. It still requires custom fabrication for installation and is at least double the price of the EZ system but I'm sure the end result would be brilliant.
Thoughtless speculation on your part. If you can't or won't afford the EZ system, feel free to "scab" together a power steering system from junkyard parts but don't try to convince others that the EZ system isn't good, just to make yourself feel better about not having it. If you had purchased an EZ system, or had first hand knowledge of it, your comments would be valid.
As of a year ago, EZ had sold more than twenty Pantera kits without a complaint or problems. Without exception, the owners love it. Furthermore, any sheetmetal that's removed in the installation is replaced by brackets that are far stronger than what's been removed. EZ has also received TÜV certification for the kit, which is the gold standard in safety certifications.
As Kid wrote above, if your steering column doesn't "wiggle" when "you" apply torque to the column, why would it "wiggle" when the EPAS motor applies exactly the same amount of torque? The obvious answer is, it wouldn't.
Hemmingway wrote: "Pheasant hunting is worth whatever you have to pay to do it" and some of us feel the same way about modifications where safety is concerned.
The only EPAS system that is probably better than the EZ system is made by DC Electronics in the UK. It is compact and uses user programmable MAPS to determine levels of assist vs. speed. It still requires custom fabrication for installation and is at least double the price of the EZ system but I'm sure the end result would be brilliant.