Goose 8MA642 Refurb and Repaint

So, which would be better for bolting hub to rotor given I cannot find M8-1.25x28 partially threaded bolts in 10.9 or 12.9 grade

a) 4 bolts 'like the old bolts' that appear to be grade 8.8, M8-1.25x28, are partially threaded to 'match no threads  in hub' (about 8mm), threaded to match the threads in rotor (about 20mm), and will take about 18ft lb of torque

or

b) 4 bolts that are grade 10.9 (or 12.9) , M8-1.25x28, are fully threaded bolts that 'don't match no threads  in hub' (about 8mm), matches threads in rotor (about 20mm), and will take about 27 ft lb (or 31 ft lb) of torque.

Question is which makes for  strong hub rotor assembly, matching the partially threaded old bolts that align with the bolt hole threading, or going with the 10.9 (or 12.9) stronger bolts that won't have bolt hole threading thru the 8mm of the hub?

Disregard...found exactly what I needed at McMaster.

@muttsjet be sure to share what you found if it works.  Useful info!

MH

Dang!   I do not recall what I used for pads in the Goose!!!   I know I put the EBC "street" pads in the Pantera and they perform nicely, so if that is what you have here....you'll like them.   You do not want anything metallic that you need to heat up before you can stop! 

These would be same as a "street 427 Cobra" in the EBC catalog I believe.

Cheers!
Steve

@mangusta posted:

Dang!   I do not recall what I used for pads in the Goose!!!   I know I put the EBC "street" pads in the Pantera and they perform nicely, so if that is what you have here....you'll like them.   You do not want anything metallic that you need to heat up before you can stop! 

These would be same as a "street 427 Cobra" in the EBC catalog I believe.

Cheers!
Steve

And they Grind down your brake discs, almost the same amount as the brake pads… very costly proposition….

for mkeh above...the 4 M8-1.25x30 10.9 bolts attaching hub to rotor from mcmaster worked just about perfectly. Had to grind 2mm off back side to insure clearance with bolt heads sticking out of spindle. Checked across internet and torqued these bolts to 26.9 ft lb using permatex blue.

part number for 25 bolts is 91310A538 for 22.72 with shipping and tax. Bolts themselves were 10.78.

Checked parts manual, but unlike most cars, there was no washer between outside bearing on hub nut. Confirm this is correct? I assume next step is to take a chisel and pound the top edge of nut into the two indentations in the spindle. Correct?

Dialin indicator indicated about 2 thousands of movement after tightening nut and adjusting it a couple times.

Now have pass front end (brake, ball joints, tierod) pulled apart for refurb and new parts, and am comparing it to my completed drv side.

If I wanted to start from scratch on front wheel alignment, is their an initial factory number of turns (my drv side was 18 turns) for the heim connected to the rack? Additionally, my drvs side tie rod was 57mm from outside edge of tightening nut to center of tierod joint (the pass side is 69mm). What is an initial setup parameter for the tierods?

Once rebuild complete, I'll perform a manual home alignment and then take car to the shop for an accurate alignment.

Pass side suspension rebuilt. Just need grease pass bearings and reinstall brakes on both sides.

Take a look at these pics. Confirm original jack point still useable on side of car (appears to be). Confirm the black frame components abeam the red heads of each jack stand are good for supporting the car. You can see from one pic that pass rear wheel exploded when I put to much air in, and rear now supported on wood block under suspension (which is luckily as I had put these blocks there just in case tires failed (they are old!)).

Front end done: brakes rebuilt (new pistons/seals, cleaned out front brake lines) , wheels (repacked new inside/outside bearings, outer races, and lt/rt nuts), steering (new boots and grease, greased heims and new boots, new tie rods), and suspension (new ball joints). New EBC DP2223 greenstuff pads arriving this week.

Starting back end tomorrow. Unless I can tell bearings are an issue (ie, looks like press required for bearings  from reading forum), will probably just rebuild brakes, clean out lines, and try to grease as many heims  as I can.

Finally back at it. Moving to rear suspension/brakes/bearings. Heim joint suspension wise:

- Anything besides getting grease into all plethora of heim joints thruout the rear if car tracked well before rebuild?

- Brakes and ebrakes should be straight forward rebuild as were the fronts.

- Rear bearings...if I get brakes/ebrakes off, and dragging stops when I turn disc, will probably skip new rear bearings (read thru https://pantera.infopop.cc/top...-bearing-replacement and https://pantera.infopop.cc/top...539#1598208420767539 and looks pretty painful to get at bearings to replace unless absolutely necessary)...if I go for it, looks like  inside nut comes off and disc/spindle/hub assembly pulls out without needing to take anything apart (learned my lesson from the front). The question then will be the two articles above and getting bearings out and back in.

Different topic, I think the paint shop lost and then made rudimentary fabrications of my front hood latches (part # 11 page 10 of the parts manual). A picture of what this part is supposed to look like would be greatly appreciated.

-

My eBrake cable looked bad, so I cut a way the plastic sheathing and slipped some heatshrink tubing over the wound steel tube, shrunk it and sprayed it with clear epoxy.  Looks MUCH better...  Time will tell if it holds up...

MH

Great idea. Was just wondering about that as I looked at it today.

https://pantera.infopop.cc/top...-hood-latch-brackets

I assume you mean the chrome brackets, the latches are easy to find...I bought an inductive heater (me w/o a torch in my apartment in Taiwan...) to bend the 6mm rod (bend over a section of pipe). Nate's notes, as usual, save the day...

Data point for getting out caliper piston that won't come out with 140psi of compressed air... used a grease gun and came right our... proper zerk fittings after a couple tries 3/8"-24.

Good idea with the grease gun, I had a stuck caliper piston and ended up reattaching that caliper to the brake system hydraulics and after putting every ounce of strength I had onto the brake pedal, it shot out with a vengence.

MH

As I mentioned, painters lost brackets for front of hood. Their fabrication of replacements, in a word, sucked. So, attached are new fabricated front brackets. Very sturdy and don't expect hood to blow off!