Hall Pantera 8 stack Weber intake.

A close up of the intake manifold.

Appears to be Weber 48 IDA carbs. Price is a variable dependent upon condition of intake/ Webers/linkage/alterations/etc/etc...Mark

The carbs are 48ida. The version -1, -3, -4, will be stamped into the mounting flange.

The carbs are all worth a minimum of about $350 each used. "Made in Italy" are more desirable than "Made in Spain".

New the carbs are only "Spain" and are about $550 each.

The only way the used carbs are worth more than that is if they are the early '60s version and you would identify them by their absence of the triangluar auxiliary mounting tab bosses on the side of the carbs.

Yours are not. They are at least early '70s manufacture because they do have those bosses.



The manifold is available new from Hall for $900. There are two versions. The big 4v iron head ports and the smaller square SVO ports.

I can't see what you have. The lighting in the picture is not showing me the details that I need and I cannot see what the intake ports look like since you did not post pictures of them.



The vacuum plumbing and manifold is worth something, about $150, on top of all that as is the linkage and the fuel plumbing. About $150 for each of those.



So presuming everything is in good shape about a minimum of $2750 and about a maximum of $3500. Splitting the difference, from what I see $3100 to $3200 for what you have would be a fair price to pay for that setup.

If I was buying, which I am not, that's what I would offer you, take it or leave it.



Weber carbs are very rarely trashed out. The exception would be if the castings are radically modified such as the fuel bowls like what the Mazda rotary people do to them or if there has been a carb fire and the main castings are damaged or melted.

These carbs are very modular, kick down into components easily and those components are all replaceable relatively simply including the throttle shafts, and are available from Weber.

I used this same set up on my car. Since I have a Ford 400 in my car, the deck height is an inch taller which means the manifolds are further apart. The Hall intake has a great dividing line which makes it easy to cut and use as left bank and right bank.

Nice work. How tall are those stacks?
I figure 6"would be perfect to hide under the roof. Problem is there are only three sizes for those spun aluminum ones. Stock, 5" and 6-1/2".

Not sure, I'll look it up when I get a chance:

I think I located which receipt but I will have to dig it out tonight. I think I got them here:

http://www.carburetion.com/Weber/stacks.asp

Inglese has the wide mouth spun aluminum in stock @ 5". 6-1/2" on special order.

The tall ones only give you about an inch of clearance to the inside of the roof. They fit but they are a tight fit.

For me 6" would be just about right for running just with screens. Filters still won't fit wit them though.

Thanks for the info.

Your set up looks nice. Especially considering all the fabrication you had to do.

My Doug Nash magnesium intake was just like you did. A separate manifold for each side and an aluminum plate in the middle.

I have Yates C3L heads, apparently an inch taller than normal, which also required the split manifold like yours, except I'm running EFI.

I have to admit it is VERY tempting to run my car without the air cleaners. NOTHING looks cooler than open velocity stacks IMO

quote:

Originally posted by comp2:
I used this same set up on my car. Since I have a Ford 400 in my car, the deck height is an inch taller which means the manifolds are further apart. The Hall intake has a great dividing line which makes it easy to cut and use as left bank and right bank.

I ordered 2 horns; I think these are the one's I got. They are listed as 3.5" but I measure 2 5/8" from the base.

The tennis balls are actually oversize balls from the Pet store.

http://www.carburetion.com/Pro...ils.aspx?part=CU6057

quote:

Originally posted by comp2:
I used this same set up on my car. Since I have a Ford 400 in my car, the deck height is an inch taller which means the manifolds are further apart. The Hall intake has a great dividing line which makes it easy to cut and use as left bank and right bank.

Hello Comp2; Due to you utilizing the stock height DeTomaso valve covers, I presume you are not using a rocker arm stud girdle?.

Is your valley plate aluminum?...Mark

Mike I have posted before but if you look on mine I am using a lawn mower recoil spring.

quote:

Originally posted by 1Rocketship:

quote:

Originally posted by comp2:
I used this same set up on my car. Since I have a Ford 400 in my car, the deck height is an inch taller which means the manifolds are further apart. The Hall intake has a great dividing line which makes it easy to cut and use as left bank and right bank.

Hello Comp2; Due to you utilizing the stock height DeTomaso valve covers, I presume you are not using a rocker arm girdle?.

Is your valley plate aluminum?...Mark

No girdle. I specifically wanted a larger cubic inch engine with a lots of tq and limited rpm; no more then 5500. Trying to head off high rpm valve issues.

http://www.tmeyerinc.com/category-s/1888.htm

Yes aluminum vally plate.

It never occurred to me before that I remember but the separate center plate could have been cut narrower to permit it to be used as an access cover into the lifter gallery?

MTS's situation would be a good illustration of why it could be useful.


Stacks are normally measured from the ring to the top. Those are the stock replacement heights. I had a set of those polished.

That was a mistake. They were always full of some kind of slime with oily fingerprints and hand marks on them. I'm going to get the mill finished ones this time?



Pet Shop balls? Those are yellow, big and hairy. I had forgotten about that? Strange?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_W-fIn2QZgg

I AM tempted to take the top off and inspect my lifters while my engine is down, while waiting on new rockers.

If I do, you can bet I'll be getting busy with my grinder and cut a big hole in that plate, and make a bolt on cover so I can look inside by simply removing the cover off the center plate.

quote:

Originally posted by PanteraDoug:
It never occurred to me before that I remember but the separate center plate could have been cut narrower to permit it to be used as an access cover into the lifter gallery?

MTS's situation would be a good illustration of why it could be useful.

Pet Shop balls? Those are big and hairy. Strange?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_W-fIn2QZgg

Can you elaborate? I'm not sure what you mean about using a lawnmower spring.

quote:

Originally posted by comp2:
Mike I have posted before but if you look on mine I am using a lawn mower recoil spring.

quote:

Originally posted by mike the snake:
I AM tempted to take the top off and inspect my lifters while my engine is down, while waiting on new rockers.

If I do, you can bet I'll be getting busy with my grinder and cut a big hole in that plate, and make a bolt on cover so I can look inside by simply removing the cover off the center plate.

quote:

Originally posted by PanteraDoug:
It never occurred to me before that I remember but the separate center plate could have been cut narrower to permit it to be used as an access cover into the lifter gallery?

MTS's situation would be a good illustration of why it could be useful.

Pet Shop balls? Those are big and hairy. Strange?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_W-fIn2QZgg

If that is the case, might I suggest, mark on the plate where the manifold meets it.

Take the plate off and cut it leaving the lines you marked on the plate.

Fit it back in a way that you can seal it to the edges (l left and 1 right) of the intake manifolds with silicone.

You might want to also consider adding two Allen socket head bolts to each end that go through the plate and thread into the edges of the block.

You aren't going to see much through one hole through the plate and there isn't much point in making it into swiss cheese?

This way you can periodically remove the plate to examine and or change the lifters?

It's a lot faster than pulling off the entire intake manifold and disturbing all of the throttle bodies and linkages.

You actually can cut that plate on a table saw with a triple carbide tipped tooth blade very easily...but don't tell anyone I said that ok?

I was thinking I'd just scribe the top plate where the manifold edges are, then measure over enough for socket and bolt holes, and go in a little more from there. Then I could just take an oversize flat plate and have it overlap the areas I left protruding past the manifold sides, drill and tap a few screws to hold the cover in place, and voila!

Then I'd have a rectangle cutout in the top plate, but it would still be all one piece.