Headlight will not go down now....

Once they go down half way, can you open them up again? Will they go the rest of the way down using the manual knob? Does the motor continue to run trying to shut them the rest of the way? Need to make sure nothing is binding on the way down.

I went through the same thing but mine won't go all the way up. They stop about 1" or so from the top so mine point down.
This must be some type of y2k+ thing?

quote:

Originally posted by PanteraDoug:
I went through the same thing but mine won't go all the way up. They stop about 1" or so from the top so mine point down.
This must be some type of y2k+ thing?

It could be your top switch is out of adjustment and turning off too soon. It has a threaded adjustment dealy-bobber. You know, like what is on door stops.

DT, mine doesn't even make it to the switch. Something else is happening. Probably one of those Roman curses.

Thanks for the replies

Previously - would not go up -
Now they go up fine ...... just stop at half way down.... sounds like motor is shut off - does not appear to be binding.... and when it stops it is in the middle of cycle , so nothing is touching the micro switches.

as soon as I can get a few minutes (and one of my kids to turn the switch on & off) I will test the current with my meeter - to see if the power is cutting it off ....

I was going to replace the headlight relay to see it that would solve the problem - but the darn thing cost $300. so I want to first be sure it is the problem,,, I thought it would cost about $100.

In the mean time I am still trying to think of a simple way to just make a total manual crank and lock system.... it sure would be more reliable a

Oh well - thanks

quote:

In the mean time I am still trying to think of a simple way to just make a total manual crank and lock system....

But Woody, you already got a manual crank system. It is right there on the driver side behind the headlight bucket. It just takes a lot of turns is all.

I hear mine clicking away.
It's a little pricey to be guessing on the parts.
However, the relay is the only component that I haven't replace, gulp!

quote:

However, the relay is the only component that I haven't replace, gulp!

You mean you already have the bronze gear?? That is $70 bucks right there.

Bronze? Comon DT. I got the polished platinum one.

(the gear is not the problem)

quote:

I was going to replace the headlight relay to see it that would solve the problem - but the darn thing cost $300. so I want to first be sure it is the problem,,, I thought it would cost about $100.

A $300 relay PPC Reno lists it for $131 & Wilkinson for $168 unless prices have changed dramatically.

If you are close to one of the CA vendors then maybe they would let you try a new relay to see if that is the problem, prior to purchase.

A $300 relay PPC Reno lists it for $131 & Wilkinson for $168 unless prices have changed dramatically.

If you are close to one of the CA vendors then maybe they would let you try a new relay to see if that is the problem, prior to purchase.[/QUOTE]


I called Larry in Reno PPC -
Larry want's $320....... Halls would like $285.... just plain ugly....

Time to look for an aftermarket substitute. Why is the stock Pantera relay special?
I know that it has clear plastic so you can see the internals.
Is that necessary?

Isn't there another relay that was used in another vehicle with popups that can be substituted?

I don't care if I have to use a Corvette relay. That car has to be good for something?

Electronics isn't my strong point. Don't we have some electrical engineers that can help out here?