Heater Tube Liners ?

Pex tube thru the heater tubes ... I guess the question obviously is the temperature ... HW Heat System and a Car are similar in temperatures ... the fittings need to be brass when used for heat applications ...I can speak for the WIRSBRO brand ... it works excellent ... there is no need to sleeve the tubing ... i would use it and cover it with armor flex ... its a good idea.

Thanks, AC. What is armor flex, and where can I find this ?
My original thought was that I could push the PEX through the existing tubes under the console, and hopefully find the right fittings for a secure connection to the heater hoses.

Is there room to thread the Pex without removing the existing tubes ?

Thanks,

Hap

Why not simply replace your rusty heater tubes with stainless steel tubing?

Dave,

Trying to avoid the reported difficulties of removing the existing heater tubes. Dennis Quella advised that the best way to get them out is to remove the engine first ! I'm looking for an easier fix if I can find one that will work. Been intrigued by the possibilities of pushing PEX tubing through the existing rusty heater tubes.

Hap

Some cars can have the stock steel tubes removed easier than others. One owner found that when he removed his main console, the heater tubes leaked.... because one of the clamp retaining screws was drilled right into the line.

You don't really need to pull the engine for removal unless you want to pull the tubes all in one piece for some reason. Chop the things into manageable sections- just like we do to the OEM 'long' radiator water transfer tube when going with stainless.

My heater tubes were too corrode to be serviceable, so pulled them rearwards and chopped them off in six inch sections, the job went well then one pipe proved very tight, I eventually talked it out, It was tight because its rearmost part is a sort of "S" section, wondering what held them in place I removed the gear lever unit and found the 2 brackets that are spot welded in place to stop them Rattling around, these were also removed without too much difficulty, then I replaced the old tubing with 2 full runs of rubber heater hosing, here in england we don't have the heat you enjoy/suffer in California, so I hope I don't have problems with extra heat in the cabin. Learning all the time!

I agree with BOSS ..cut them out and replace them with 1/2 pex ... armorflex is rubber pipe insulation ... if you snake pex thru the existing tubes your going to be lucky to get 1/4 tube thru ? your heat will be luke warm and you water pump probably don't have enough head pressure to push it thru.

Thanks, guys. I'll give it a try.

Hap

Any reason not us use rigid (if your engine is out) or flexible cooper (engine in) tubing with soldered fittings? Then for those of us in hotter climates, and inside the console use the foam insulation from Home Depot that is used on hot water tubing to hopefully contain the heat so the cabin is cooler? Just a thought. I like the idea of the PEX because it's flexible...but is it compatible with fitting diameters for the heater core? You could also use the foam insulation on PEX as well if you have removed the old tubing.