Hub Seal Seating

One thing I need to add.  I installed the seals backwards like a noob. Maybe that solves it. Maybe not. I will know by Wednesday when the new seals come.

While I might just leave out the shields going forward it would be nice to know if the lip should face in towards the bearing which makes sense logically. 

To get a send of the pad gaps. On the drivers side I removed the hub seal to see if it would improve the issue but if it does it is marginal. I included two pics below, drivers and passenger. The drivers side is the one with the larger gap. It slightly drags on the outboard pad. I don’t have the lines hooked up so there is no pressure from the fluid.

I have to call Scott tomorrow at SACC to get his thoughts.

 Thanks 

Those washers (spacers) are there to compensate for the difference in thickness between your Wilwood brake hats and the OEM rotors. Without them, the splined portion of the wheel stud protrudes too far outboard and won't "grip" the hub properly.  

On any brake caliper swap, shimming of the caliper will be required (except by sheer coincidence) and the amount may be different side to side and front to back. This is utterly normal; even the factory used caliper shims! Most brake kits include various thickness sheet metal shims.

I had one front hub where I installed the seal incorrectly, and dislodged the little spring that compresses the seal.  It was binding between the base of the hub, and the base of the inner bearing.  I couldn’t get the outside bearing and all the washers/nuts/cotter pins on. 

Finally after pulling the rotor/hub off again I found my buffoonery.

Looks a little similar to your offset caliper. It doesn’t take much offset to mess up the caliper alignment.

 Rocky. 

Thanks.  I thought it might need shims but I need to talk to Scott about a thinner spacer on the bracket otherwise I don’t see how the caliper can be pushed further outboard. 

All of the advice given above is correct. Let me add a few points to the above advise.

1. Please do not eliminate the hub seals. They are not dust seals. They seal out water and dirt, and seal in the grease.
2. The Calipers are by design, offset more towards the center of the car (away from the wheel). The reason for this is because this kit uses the absolute largest rotors possible that will still fit under stock Campy’s. The Calipers are offset as much as possible to the center for added wheel clearance. This is not an issue at all since the pistons will easily compensate for the slightly offset rotor position.
3. I noticed in one of your pictures some light shining between the outer pad and the rotor. That indicates it has some clearance. If the rotor is slightly rubbing as you spin the hub, it may be because the Rotor isn’t yet turning true (i.e. a slight wobble). If you put the wheel on and tighten the lug nuts, any wobble that was there should disappear. Since it is hard to see everything with the wheel on, you could take the wheel off and just put the lug nuts on each stud and tighten. That way you can inspect everything much easier and you can see that the rotor is running true. Note: You may have to add some washers or spacers between the lug nuts and the hub if the lug nuts don’t tighten up before running out of threads.
4. After spinning the Rotors (with the lug nuts tightened) if there is only a slight rub occasionally, the install is fine. Once you “bed in” the pads everything will be perfect.
5. Having said all the previous, if the outer pad is tight and you can feel a lot of resistance to turning the rotor, then we will need to take the existing spacer/shim and machine off .010-.020 thousandths. But like I said before, I can see clearance in one of your pictures.

So, to summarize: The offset position of the Caliper is by design to make clearance for stock Campy’s. Tighten the lug nuts and recheck the outer pads clearance. If it only slightly rubs in a random place during a single revolution, it will be fine once the pads are bedded in.

Please let me know if you have any other questions or give me a call.

Thanks, Scott

Thanks, Scott for the quick response. I sent a separate email to your sacc email which you can discard. 

I just want to clarify that I was going to eliminate the grease seals, but the inner bearing shield, which my car didn’t have when I disassembled it. It sounds like a lot of cars don’t have them. I’ll keep them anyway at this point  

I will get everything tightened up and recheck the clearance. 

Thanks, again. 

Shashi

Which SACC kit are you installing and what size are the rotors? I'm looking to do the same in the future. Are you doing all 4 wheels? Thanks.

This is the kit. All four wheels and parking brake. I’m not racing it so didn’t feel I needed more pistons or larger rotors.

Thanks for the info.