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I recently purchased a 73 pantera. The car was missing the carb. Here is a list the previous owner gave me of what has been done to the car:
351c 4 bolt main rebuilt bored .060 over 10.5-1 trw pistons. hydraulic lifters, edelbrock roller rockers. isky 270 degree supercam 431270. peak power range 3500-5000rpm.
I was considering the demon 750 carb. Any suggestions or advise would be greatly appreciated.
thank
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You didn't mention what intake manifold, if any, is currently available for your Pantera's engine. This makes a difference because the factory manifold was designed for a spread bore Autolite/Motorcraft carburetor known as the 4300D, whereas the aftermarket manifolds will be designed for Holley 4150 style carburetors. It appears the engine is equipped with an aftermarket manifold, because you are considering a Demon carburetor, but I don't want to "assume" anything.

The Autolite/Motorcraft 4300D carburetors were factory calibrated lean for emissions. Recalibrating the carbs for something close to 14.7:1 air-fuel ratio will improve the motors drivability, and increase horsepower by 10 to 25 bhp. But finding someone who can tune the 4300D carburetors in this day and age is difficult to do. A carburetor rated at about 600 cfm is fine for daily transportation purposes, but it will choke the 351C, especially the 4V version, at higher rpm. Ford used a carburetor of that size on the M code version of the 351C 4V specifically for the purpose of limiting the horsepower.

It is easy to warp the 4300D air horn (top casting) and once it is warped the fuel bowl will leak fuel dangerously. The 4300D is also known to cause the engine to stumble during high G-force cornering. For day in and day out driving and even moderate street-type performance it is just fine, but it is not suitable for the high G-forces encountered when cornering on race tires or on banked turns. Properly chosen aftermarket carburetors offer better fuel bowl designs and castings that don’t warp, they have features making them easier to tune, and they offer features such as annular booster venturis that enhance performance. These are some of the reasons people choose to replace the Autolite/Motorcraft 4300D carburetors rather than refurbish and re-use them.

The usual carburetor choices for a 351C 4V range in size from 750cfm to 850cfm. Some guys opt for a smaller 650 cfm carburetor because they believe it will improve low rpm drivability, or because they are influenced by the popular press & internet buzz which caters to the SBC and SBF style engines. My advice is to ignore everything you've read about SBC and SBF engines because a lot of it does not apply to a 351C with 4V cylinder heads.

Here are some carburetor recommendations from Sticky #3 of this forum (the engine forum):

(Note: If the budget is tight the Summit Racing carburetors are the lowest priced carburetors in the list)

Mechanical secondary/annular booster carburetors featuring street calibration and electric chokes

•Demon Carburetors #1282020 - 650 cfm - Speed Demon, mech. secondary, elec. choke kit #421440
•Demon Carburetors #1402020 - 750 cfm - Speed Demon, mech. secondary, elec. choke kit #421440
•Demon Carburetors #1563020 - 850 cfm - Speed Demon, mech. secondary, elec. choke kit #421440
•Holley #0-9379 - 750 cfm - Competition Series, mech. secondary, choke horn equipped
•Holley #0-9380 – 850 cfm - Competition Series, mech. secondary, choke horn equipped
•Quick Fuel Technologies (QFT) #SS-650-AN – 650 cfm – SS Series, mech. secondary, electric choke
•Quick Fuel Technologies (QFT) #SS-750-AN – 750 cfm – SS Series, mech. secondary, electric choke

Vacuum secondary/ annular booster carburetors featuring street calibration and electric chokes

•Demon Carburetors #1282020VE - 650 cfm - Speed Demon, vac. secondary, electric choke
•Demon Carburetors #1402020VE - 750 cfm - Speed Demon, vac. secondary, electric choke
•Demon Carburetors #1563020VE - 850 cfm - Speed Demon, vac. secondary, electric choke
•Summit Racing #M08600VS - 600 cfm – vac. secondary, electric choke
•Summit Racing #M08750VS - 750 cfm – vac. secondary, electric choke

Vacuum secondary/down-leg booster carburetors featuring street calibration and electric chokes

•Quick Fuel Technologies (QFT) #SS-680-VS - 680 cfm – SS Series, vac. secondary, electric choke
•Quick Fuel Technologies (QFT) #SS-735-VS - 735 cfm – SS Series, vac. secondary, electric choke
•Quick Fuel Technologies (QFT) #SS-780-VS - 780 cfm – SS Series, vac. secondary, electric choke

Annular booster venturis atomize fuel better and provide a stronger fuel metering signal at low air velocity. In other words, annular booster venturis benefit the low rpm and mid-rpm performance of a motor in the same manner as the smaller primary throttle bores of a spread bore carburetor. These attributes make annular booster venturis popular for improving the low rpm operation of performance engines, where they have earned a reputation for improving torque, horsepower and throttle response at low engine speeds. However the improvement in fuel atomization distributes fuel more consistently throughout an intake manifold, resulting in more consistent fuel/air ratio from cylinder to cylinder, therefore annular booster venturis actually improve torque and horsepower across a motor's entire power band; and they improve fuel economy too! The only drawbacks of annular booster venturis include their larger physical size (which reduces the airflow capability of a carburetor by a relatively small amount) and their greater cost of manufacture.

-G
Can't say enough about how pleased I am with Demon Carburetors new Street Demon. I have run many Carbs and know how to tune Holley's, which I run on my classic Fords, but this carb is a new design and they got it right. It will fit both spread bore and standard holley intakes. In my opinion the street dive-ability and linear power delivery is unmatched by the holley and Edelbrock designs. In some ways they took the best of both and added features like triple stacked annular boosters

I have the 750cfm with the plastic bowl on a 393C stroker. I had to tune it for altitude, but that was it. No heat soak or leak issues at all. The "goggle valve" is basically a controlled mechanical secondary and it when it opens the motor pulls like freight train.
Hi all
I recommend the Summit carb. It's the Holley improved all over. I have it on my Longchamp and on previous Pantera. Worked perfect right out of the box, only set the idle. Best throttle response carb I've experienced, due to the redesign.

Never had a Demon, but I know there were quality issues once, hope they're history.

BTW, if you need help tuning it, let me know(or buy my bookSmiler)
quote:
Originally posted by "72 GTS:
Hello
Same question for me please, I would need a 4150 style Holley carburetor, to run the 351C engine
Here's the camshaft

http://www.compperformancegrou...egory_Code=F351MFTCM

This is going to be a Fia approved engine 351ci, Holley dominator intake, gts headers, 4 barrels (Holley) carburetor, points distributor,
First step before the webers, who knows ?...
Kind regards
Philippe


Years ago Ford Muscle Parts (John Vermersch was the engineer then and still is head of Ford Racing Parts Division) recommended a Holley 850 cfm "double-pumper". The old number was R-4781.

There testing showed it made 15hp more than any other carb.

I personally ran a Holley r-4779. That is a 750cfm double pumper. It ran best on an Edelbrock Torker.

It was calabrated out of the box, to have a much heavier idle then say, and 1850 would.

Holly's explanation was that was needed because it was anticipated to be used on a car with race size headers and collectors.

They said that the heavier idle was to eliminate leaning out caused by the scavenging effect of the headers.

I can tell you that the idle is heavy and is annoying. It will smart your eyes because of that BUT the car ran like a frightened cat.



The 48 ida Webers in fact have a reputation for being heavy at idle. The 4779 Holley is worse.

The Webers with this cam,

http://www.compcams.com/Compan...s.aspx?csid=861&sb=2

and the Hall 180 headers idle surprisingly clean.

This I am convinced is because of the header scavenging effect. What that simply means is the headers are doing what they are supposed to and the size and length of the tubes and collectors are matched well.



I know you don't need the 850 (4781) but the engine likes very much the mechanical secondaries with the secondary accelerator pump.

To run the Holley double pumpers which work very very well on a track car, you really need to be able to adjust both the idle air bleeds and the main air bleeds to get the air fuel mixture where you want it for a street car.

For a track car though, out of the box, they are fine.

For strictly performance, i.e., get up and go, you will be much happier with a Holley double pumper on a hot Cleveland then any of the vacuum secondary carbs. 750 is about the size that you need.



An 1850, vacuum secondary 600cfm is all any 351 needs ON THE STREET. It is clean and crisp but really will not give you the top end that you want on the track. No where near it.

I aslo tried on both my 427 and 351c, a 69 428 cj carb (735cfm), a 69 Boss 302 carb (780cfm), and a generic 3310 (780 z28 Camaro carb).

The three vacuum carbs were all very flat and clean at idle which is to be expected because they were not calibrated for headers.



You are going to get a lot of different recommendations and with the difficulty of accessing them on a Pantera you want to be close to start with.

With that camshaft Mikael is correct with the 600cfm recommendation. The problem is, and this is from personal experience, it is way to small for a track car.

Neither is a 6700 rpm redline reality on the track. Try 8,000 rpm, and the engine better have been built for that consideration.

At 6700rpm you are going to feel like the track workers look in their electric golf carts.



I would go with the hotter cam (and have) and stay away from the special "Weber cams" for your purpose, when you get to them that is.

In my opinion, those are to make the reversion more acceptable for street use so the guys in their Gucci loafers and heavy gold dog collar necklaces don't get their noses all out of joint needlessly. You do not want them for track cams. For that purpose, they just plain suck.

I saw a before and after with a Boss 351 with 48 ida's. On the track it was easily down 100 hp with the special "Weber cam". You could clearly feel the difference in the car and see the difference on the track from a distance.

The car had no top end get up and go and was just plain flat.

Wave you dyno numbers at me that show the cams work. I don't believe it. I saw the difference for my self. You LOOSE power. A lot of it.



I would say a 4779 Holley, out of the box and just adjust the idle. The 427 likes the 750 also, but is difficult to compare directly since there are too many differences in parameters caused by the cubic inches. There are similarities in some respects but too many differences in others.

With that cam your car will idle around 850 hot, but there isn't enough overlap for a track car. That's a hot street cam that you have.



My personal opinion is that the best overall set up would be a 2x4 Holley carb set up with two 1850 carbs on a 180 degree manifold like Ford ran with the 67-68-69 Trans Am race Mustangs.

That set up just plain works and no need to look further. The Wizard may have stumbled upon that set up purely by accident but it is one of the best kept secrets ever with a street/strip set up.

It certainly ran exceptionally well under race conditions which is fact, not conjecture on a pitifully bad head design.

It would run as if you had a single 600cfm on the street but give you the top end that you need.

I have this on my 347. That is running vintage 302 Windsor heads.

They are race ported but they aren't even a close comparison to my A3 circle track heads.

Unfortunately no one ever made this combination manifold for the Cleveland.



And before anyone chimes in that a single Holley makes more power and is better, all I can say is that is just not true and you have to drive one to understand.

There is a very funny thing that happens with engine dynomometers and air flow benches, they really are lousy on the track. They don't handle for crap either! Big Grin

Of course this is all my opinion based upon my experiences and is not a rehash of what a car magazine has written for the sake of sensationalizing their magazine sales. Wink


I simply am not going to argue with a dyno. All I will say is put the engine in the car and see if it is faster.
Last edited by panteradoug
quote:
Originally posted by "72 GTS:
Doug,
Thanks for your help
any other cam advice ( I 'd preferably stay in a 7000 Max Rpm range)
Any power prediction then ?
Philippe


You build the engine for 8,000 then set a rev limiter at 7000. Big Grin

You are looking at around 490 to 500 with a Holley and around 550 with Webers with iron heads. Another 40 to 50 hp with a good set of high port aluminum heads.

Torque with either heads is right around 500 at 4500 rpm. Comes in a little lower with the Webers. Maybe 4,000 to 4200.

That's good for the ZF. Seems to have a maximum load capacity of around 550ft-lbs under duress.

180 degree headers will give you more hp and torque too. Maybe another 50hp and 25-30 ft-lbs of torque. You tune those with the size of the tube and the lengths of the primaries.

You need 2" tubes to tune it right. 1-3/4 are too small.

So you could get 650 OR MORE...EASY with a few parts changes. Big Grin

That will get you right into the hp range of the current vintage racers. Those cars are fast.

The old rule of thumb for the cleveland is that the lift equates to the hp,i.e., a .600" lift cam will give you 600hp, etc.

Make sure your setup holds you in the seat tightly. This thing is fast. Easy 12 second 1/4 mile car.

Mike Cook took Gary Halls GTS with this set up, changed the ring and pinion to 5.38:1 and put it into the 9 second 1/4 mile times. With a single Holley 750dp.

The thing would pull the front tires off of the pavement.

Very close in nature to a good 427 Cobra.

The Cobras you would see them twisting the chassis when they would pull the wheels.

The Pantera is stiffer believe it or not?

Takes a lot of practice to use this much power.
Dear Doug

Let's clarify :
the engine is a 351c that was in the car when I bought it, It's almost stock.

I'm building a FIA car, then I can't brake the rules.

It must be (stay) 351ci capacity.
I can play with the cam, and carb.

I have the strip dominator intake, GTS headers, free mufflers.

I must use a 4 barrels carb that's close to the Holley 4777.

I chose first a 2500/6500 rpm cam, but I can think about a 3000/7000+ cam
I have to check the valve train ...
There's no need to run 8000 rpm ! the thing have to last ...

Believe me : none of the Pantera FIA race cars produce more than 500/520 HP in Europe, only the liars with 7liters engines ...
Let's talk about a cam with this setup

Thanks !
500 hp with 4v iron heads with a .030 over is not uncommon.

Here is one with 456hp.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WqxFcsurlqg

Here's another with 490hp.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6usEGrNCqMY

I would go with the Compcam I recommended to you.

You need to bush the lifters. Restrict the oil to the lifter gallery, use the small orifice oil passage Johnson solid lifters for the Cleveland,
use the Boss rods and bolts or the equivalent, Avaiad oil pan or equivalent, Holley 650dp carb 4777, Holley Track intake is good, GTS "Euro" headers. Unfortunately those are the best stock headers but you are loosing power through them because the primary pipes are too short and the collectors are wrong.


You need the Boss heads or equivalent with screw in studs, roller rocker arms if permitted, and the heads need to ported just under the valves like shown in the Ford "Off Highway Engine" booklet.


If you need a copy of that I'll email those pages too you.



Use nice stainless aftermarket valves. Under NO CONDITIONS USE THE FORD VALVES. "Morto bene",i.e., you'll be good as dead.

If you need valves, go here.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/FORD-3...&hash=item5af7c1a5ae

These are race quality stainless valves. I use them on all my engines now. Beautiful quality. Ferria buys them and repackages them with their packaging.

His name is Ted Standhope. He sells to a lot of people including Edelbrock, and some of the other head manufacturers. His manganese/bronze valve guides are works of art.



I didn't say you need to run 8,000 rpm, I said you need to build the engine to be able to withstand it.

That means the above oiling restrictions, triple valve springs, fully grooved main bearings.

You should be able with very little effort to bring this engine in at right around 490 to 500hp on the dyno and 495 to 500 ft-lbs of torque at somewhere in the 4500 to 5000 rpm rance.

You also need the Boss balancer or the equivalent. The stock 4v-cj balancer is inadequate for this.

You also want to use the lightest piston and rod combination you can find and re-balance the assembly. 10 to 10.5:1 static compression ratio.

The entire idea of the 351 Cleveland with the 4v heads (iron) was that it was an easy 500hp engine. It was when it was new, and still is now.



You do not need to go crazy with it at all. The biggest single factor is the camshaft. This is almost just a stock rebuild of what you have.

The NASCAR guys were running .750 to .800 lift cams back in the day.

On racing gas with 11.5:1 compression those engines were around 700 hp.

The cam I suggested is .605 lift. 74 degrees overlap. 248 duration at .050. That's a very, very nice track cam. Big mid range and screaming top end. You will love it.

On the street, it is almost like the cam you were proposing to use.



I don't see what the issue is with this formula?

You don't want to use a stroker kit in the engine. The stock bottom end is fine for what you want. Even a steel crank is unnecessary. Those are mostly used to reduce the amount of rebuilds you need to do on the crankshaft.

The harder crank surface reduces the inbedment of the bearings into the surface and therefore reduces the amount of times it needs to be cut. The steel crank also created issues with block failure due to passing along vibration into the block that it should have absorbed. Iron is better.



All this fits into the rules and gives you 500hp, 7,000+ rpm with some safety factor and you can easily run the entire season with the one engine.

I would look into the rules though and see why you cannot run a "vintage Gp4 engine configuration? That engine configuration was allowed to Detomaso in 1971-72 and as such should be allowed to you as well?

That would allow you the 180 headers, Weber carbs and the aluminum bar stock modification to the exhaust ports.

You can get the aluminum "pro-stock" exhaust plates CNC cut from Price Motorsport in Indiana. That will make the exhausts flow like the aluminum high port ones do.



THIS is the Boss/HO balancer. Actually a D2ZX, which is the '72HO. You need this for what you intend to run. See how thick the ring is? I am running one. It smooths out the engine incredibly.

Don't waste your time with the stock 4v-cj balancer. it's junk for this and you will destroy the engine without a heavier balancer.

Occasionally you can find one for around $150. I got mine for $125. They aren't very common. If you can't find one use a new race balancer. I prefer the original Ford version. It was made for this kind of application and the heavier, the better for bottom end longevity.

The D1ZZ is the Boss balancer and will bring a lot more money than the 72 HO. Although functionally the same. Problem is there were not many 72 HO's built, so most of these were over the counter service parts.

This is George's pic. My pics are...somewhere...everything needs to be...somewhere? Big Grin

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Last edited by panteradoug
You can get the cam directly from Compcams or someone like Summit Racing.

Click on the link for the cam I gave you. Look at the top of the page. There is a hyper link to "add to basket".

That's where you can get it directly from.


You can also get it from Summit Racing. Here's the link for it.

http://www.summitracing.com/pa...a-32-239-4/overview/

Do not get the CompCams lifters with it. They are wrong.

You need to get the Johnson solid lifters because they have a restricted oil feed hole in the lifter.

Can't remember the application and part number but you can get them from Summit Racing too.

George...HELP...we need the lifter part number or cross reference. Can you help me out with the part number please? I can't find it.

Thank you (he says sheepishly).

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