Chest is feeling great!
I've wondered about the center hump mod.
The last time I installed the interior, I forgot to install the metal cover. I had to undo everything and reinstall the metal hump, and I only found one of the 2 bolts to fit, said "screw it", and fit the firewall upholstery back on. It all was on and tight anyways.
Next time I have it apart though, I'm doing the mod to the upholstery, and I'm goping to bolt the cover on properly. It looks like it's been on and off so many times, there's 3 or 4 different holes on each side, and for the life of me I couldn't find the right size screw to hold one side on for the cover.
It's all on and done and fits nice now, so if I can avoid removing the seats and upholstery again, I will. If I DO have to remove it all, no big deal, it's really easy, just a little time consuming.
I can see how this mod can make life SOOOO much easier though. It would be great to just pop the cover off and be able to get to the front of the engine.
For NOW though, I have to remove the injection stacks, throttle linkage, injector plugs, fuel lines, and center cover off so I can get a gander at the lifters, make sure they're all OK.
If they check out, then the whole shebang goes back together and I SHOULD have a solid, reliable engine, since at this point I've gone through just about everything except the bottom end, and with 70lbs of oil pressure and no knocking, I think I'm OK there (knocks on wood lol).
You've been living without that change? Yikes. 
OK, change of plans again. Triple valve springs won't compress enough on the car to get the springs off, so changing the springs is out. I figure if I keep it under 8000 rpm's I should be OK.
Screw checking the lifters, the motor's getting rebuilt in 6 to 9 months anyways.
SO, now all I have to do is install these new rockers, adjust the lash, and enjoy (hopefully-I'm willing to take that chance at this point).
I've got a remote starter hooked up so I can crank the motor over, I just would like another set of eyes/experience while installing my new rockers and adjusting the lash.
I'll do it myself here when I get the gumption, but if there's anyone out there with a spare hour or 2 to help me install these rockers and adjust my lash, I'd gladly pay for their time and take them out to dinner/beer, whatever they wanted.
I'm in the Santa Rosa area of the North SF bay area, and will probably tackle this myself, as it's basic stuff, I'd just rather have experienced eyes and hands helping then doing it myself.
I know I've got to learn sometime, this is probably it, but if there's anyone near me with a spare hour or 2 I'd gladly reward them, just so I know I get it done properly.
This is all not beyond my abilities, but my insecurities are causing me to write this post. I'll probably have it done myself by the time anyone replies, just taking a shot in the dark.
Screw checking the lifters, the motor's getting rebuilt in 6 to 9 months anyways.
SO, now all I have to do is install these new rockers, adjust the lash, and enjoy (hopefully-I'm willing to take that chance at this point).
I've got a remote starter hooked up so I can crank the motor over, I just would like another set of eyes/experience while installing my new rockers and adjusting the lash.
I'll do it myself here when I get the gumption, but if there's anyone out there with a spare hour or 2 to help me install these rockers and adjust my lash, I'd gladly pay for their time and take them out to dinner/beer, whatever they wanted.
I'm in the Santa Rosa area of the North SF bay area, and will probably tackle this myself, as it's basic stuff, I'd just rather have experienced eyes and hands helping then doing it myself.
I know I've got to learn sometime, this is probably it, but if there's anyone near me with a spare hour or 2 I'd gladly reward them, just so I know I get it done properly.
This is all not beyond my abilities, but my insecurities are causing me to write this post. I'll probably have it done myself by the time anyone replies, just taking a shot in the dark.
I'm in Westchester. Kind of a long drive.
OK. On the compressor. Whatever your seat spring pressure is what your compressor needs to be plus some more with that set up.
You were at 150# closed. My compressor is 155 full. It will do it NO PROBLEM with a pneumatic spring compressor with the heads on the bench BUT that machine is either 1.5:1 or 2:1 ratio.
Do yourself a favor. Pull off the heads, put them on the bench, do the springs.
New springs at this point should be the MINIMUM that you do. Just sayin'.
OK. On the compressor. Whatever your seat spring pressure is what your compressor needs to be plus some more with that set up.
You were at 150# closed. My compressor is 155 full. It will do it NO PROBLEM with a pneumatic spring compressor with the heads on the bench BUT that machine is either 1.5:1 or 2:1 ratio.
Do yourself a favor. Pull off the heads, put them on the bench, do the springs.
New springs at this point should be the MINIMUM that you do. Just sayin'.
This rabbit hole is getting deeper and deeper.
Don't talk to anyone named Alice. Seek out the March Hare.
Soon Mike will have to change the location on his username information to "The Earth's Core"...Markquote:Originally posted by mike the snake:
This rabbit hole is getting deeper and deeper.
quote:Originally posted by PanteraDoug:
Do yourself a favor. Pull off the heads, put them on the bench, do the springs.
Yes. Save up for the steel rocker arms.
.
Installed the new rockers. Got 2 miles down the road and dropped a hole, limped it home.
Apparently, the cradle studs need to be checked/locktited in.
I didn't think to check the studs, I'd liftetd the old rockers off of them, dropped the new ones on, but the one that fell off, both studs were finger tight. Luckily I found the nut, no damage done.
Now I need to go undo every rocker, and red locktite and tighten each cradle stud.
I'm thinking this shouldn't affect my lash though, I'll check of course, but it should be pretty straightforward.
Sucks though, all stoked, new rockers, car's back running, then it takes another huge dump in the middle of the road.
I skated by with no damage though so I'm happy. Tired, because I spent the last day installing the new rockers and setting lashes, but, I'm learning as I go.
Apparently, the cradle studs need to be checked/locktited in.
I didn't think to check the studs, I'd liftetd the old rockers off of them, dropped the new ones on, but the one that fell off, both studs were finger tight. Luckily I found the nut, no damage done.
Now I need to go undo every rocker, and red locktite and tighten each cradle stud.
I'm thinking this shouldn't affect my lash though, I'll check of course, but it should be pretty straightforward.
Sucks though, all stoked, new rockers, car's back running, then it takes another huge dump in the middle of the road.
I skated by with no damage though so I'm happy. Tired, because I spent the last day installing the new rockers and setting lashes, but, I'm learning as I go.
I would call T&D & inquire if there is a specific stud torque number...Markquote:Originally posted by mike the snake:
Installed the new rockers. Got 2 miles down the road and dropped a hole, limped it home.
Apparently, the cradle studs need to be checked/locktited in.
I didn't think to check the studs, I'd liftetd the old rockers off of them, dropped the new ones on, but the one that fell off, both studs were finger tight. Luckily I found the nut, no damage done.
Now I need to go undo every rocker, and red locktite and tighten each cradle stud.
I'm thinking this shouldn't affect my lash though, I'll check of course, but it should be pretty straightforward.
Sucks though, all stoked, new rockers, car's back running, then it takes another huge dump in the middle of the road.
I skated by with no damage though so I'm happy. Tired, because I spent the last day installing the new rockers and setting lashes, but, I'm learning as I go.
I would call T&D & inquire if there is a specific stud torque number.quote:Originally posted by 1Rocketship:
[QUOTE]Originally posted by mike the snake:
Installed the new rockers. Got 2 miles down the road and dropped a hole, limped it home.
Apparently, the cradle studs need to be checked/locktited in.
I didn't think to check the studs, I'd liftetd the old rockers off of them, dropped the new ones on, but the one that fell off, both studs were finger tight. Luckily I found the nut, no damage done.
Now I need to go undo every rocker, and red locktite and tighten each cradle stud.
I'm thinking this shouldn't affect my lash though, I'll check of course, but it should be pretty straightforward.
Sucks though, all stoked, new rockers, car's back running, then it takes another huge dump in the middle of the road.
I skated by with no damage though so I'm happy. Tired, because I spent the last day installing the new rockers and setting lashes, but, I'm learning as I go.
Yes your lash setting will change as a "loose stud" is tightened...Mark
Red Loctite??
If you ever want to Remove them in the Future, you'll have to 'Apply Heat of 450F Degrees for 5 Minutes', to get them to loosen. And 'Disassemble While Hot!'
I would use 'Blue' Loctite. 'Disassembles with tools'. If they are Straight Studs, NO Hex, then 'Jam-Nut' them and Torque them in, to Specs. Yes! Surfaces must be absolutely Clean of Oil! I use 'lacquer Thinner'.
If you ever want to Remove them in the Future, you'll have to 'Apply Heat of 450F Degrees for 5 Minutes', to get them to loosen. And 'Disassemble While Hot!'
I would use 'Blue' Loctite. 'Disassembles with tools'. If they are Straight Studs, NO Hex, then 'Jam-Nut' them and Torque them in, to Specs. Yes! Surfaces must be absolutely Clean of Oil! I use 'lacquer Thinner'.
Loctite requires oil-free conditions
everything gotta be clean
everything gotta be clean
T&D said no loctite was necessary. Just tighten the studs in place (I'm assuming with the double jam-nut trick) and the using red locktite might make things difficult to undo if I have problems in the future and need to remove them for some reason.
The thing is, many of the studs are finger tight, and I'm not taking any chances.
The engine gets really hot, so I'm not sure how effective blue loctite will be.
I'm thinking sparing amounts of red locktite should hold things in place. If I have a stud issue, it's going to be either one coming out (like has just happened), or one will break off. In that case, the whole bracket will need to come off, and I can drill out the stud remains as I have many before, even with red locktite.
I just spent basically 2 days carefully installing these new rockers, and they lasted 3 minutes. I know how to keep that from happening again for sure, red locktite=no studs coming loose.
The thing is, many of the studs are finger tight, and I'm not taking any chances.
The engine gets really hot, so I'm not sure how effective blue loctite will be.
I'm thinking sparing amounts of red locktite should hold things in place. If I have a stud issue, it's going to be either one coming out (like has just happened), or one will break off. In that case, the whole bracket will need to come off, and I can drill out the stud remains as I have many before, even with red locktite.
I just spent basically 2 days carefully installing these new rockers, and they lasted 3 minutes. I know how to keep that from happening again for sure, red locktite=no studs coming loose.
Mike!.Mike!!...Mike!!!...NEVER ASSUME!!!...You had T&D on the phone...ASK THEM their procedure for tightening the studs!quote:Originally posted by mike the snake:
T&D said no loctite was necessary. Just tighten the studs in place (I'm assuming with the double jam-nut trick) and the using red locktite might make things difficult to undo if I have problems in the future and need to remove them for some reason.
The thing is, many of the studs are finger tight, and I'm not taking any chances.
The engine gets really hot, so I'm not sure how effective blue loctite will be.
I'm thinking sparing amounts of red locktite should hold things in place. If I have a stud issue, it's going to be either one coming out (like has just happened), or one will break off. In that case, the whole bracket will need to come off, and I can drill out the stud remains as I have many before, even with red locktite.
I just spent basically 2 days carefully installing these new rockers, and they lasted 3 minutes. I know how to keep that from happening again for sure, red locktite=no studs coming loose.
Without attempting to be harsh...at times your naivety is frightening!
If as you stated..."I just spent basically 2 days carefully installing these new rockers"...The installation would have lasted MORE THAN 3 MINUTES!!!
A brief 5 minute phone call to T&D PRIOR to your installation debacle to obtain the CORRECT installation procedure, would have in reality SAVED YOU "2 days".
You need to STOP the "1 step forward, 2 steps back" approach...Mark
Use red Loctite. Why should you ever need to take the studs out again?
There should be a torque spec on them. Probably 25 to 30 ft-lbs.
Double nutting them would be the only way to tighten them without marring the threads that I know of?
There should be a torque spec on them. Probably 25 to 30 ft-lbs.
Double nutting them would be the only way to tighten them without marring the threads that I know of?
I DID CALL T&D! C'mon man, please give me more credit.
I installed these rockers to the correct torques.
These are shaft style rockers. I removed the old rockers, and did not check the shaft studs that held the shafts to the steel mounting bracket. I assumed they were tight. No torque is given for those shaft studs.
When I called and told them about the lifter lasting 3 minutes before spitting the pushrod, due to the shaft stud only being finger tight, I said I was going to undo everything and install All the shaft mounting studs with licktite.
He said that tightening them (I'd use the 2 nuts jammed together trick, but vice grips around the unthreaded portion would also probably work too).
Since the old shafts lasted forever, I'm kind of assuming breakage isn't an issue, and since I just had a shaft loosen and spit a pushrod after 3 minutes, I'm going to remove each rocker and tighten each rocker shaft stud on with a small amount of locktite.
Maybe it's overkill, but again, I don't like bad things repeating themselves, so I'm going to use a little loctite when tightening the shaft studs, especially now since theyve shown to come loose.
I DID call T&D Machine (1st thing I did), before install, AND after the rocker spit the pushrod.
I called and got the torque specs, and was not given any torque specs for the shaft studs. I think, like me, they assumed they were tight.
The onlt think he mentioned was if i used red locktite that i might have problems removing a stud if I had any issues.
To date, none of the issues have been from studs, they've been from ancient rockers and bearings dying.
I should be able to pop each rocker off (unloaded), tighten and locktite the shaft studs, and pop the rocker back on, and I suspect the lash won't even be affected, but of course, I will go back and recheck the lash of every last one of them.
These rockers WERE installed properly, and to the proper torque specs, AFTER a call to T&D (before I even started the install).
My mistake was not checking the rocker shaft studs, but it was also something that neither I, nor T&D thought needed to be checked. I simply undid the nuts, lifted off the old rockers, dropped the new ones on, and torqued to spec, as per T&D's instructions.
I installed these rockers to the correct torques.
These are shaft style rockers. I removed the old rockers, and did not check the shaft studs that held the shafts to the steel mounting bracket. I assumed they were tight. No torque is given for those shaft studs.
When I called and told them about the lifter lasting 3 minutes before spitting the pushrod, due to the shaft stud only being finger tight, I said I was going to undo everything and install All the shaft mounting studs with licktite.
He said that tightening them (I'd use the 2 nuts jammed together trick, but vice grips around the unthreaded portion would also probably work too).
Since the old shafts lasted forever, I'm kind of assuming breakage isn't an issue, and since I just had a shaft loosen and spit a pushrod after 3 minutes, I'm going to remove each rocker and tighten each rocker shaft stud on with a small amount of locktite.
Maybe it's overkill, but again, I don't like bad things repeating themselves, so I'm going to use a little loctite when tightening the shaft studs, especially now since theyve shown to come loose.
I DID call T&D Machine (1st thing I did), before install, AND after the rocker spit the pushrod.
I called and got the torque specs, and was not given any torque specs for the shaft studs. I think, like me, they assumed they were tight.
The onlt think he mentioned was if i used red locktite that i might have problems removing a stud if I had any issues.
To date, none of the issues have been from studs, they've been from ancient rockers and bearings dying.
I should be able to pop each rocker off (unloaded), tighten and locktite the shaft studs, and pop the rocker back on, and I suspect the lash won't even be affected, but of course, I will go back and recheck the lash of every last one of them.
These rockers WERE installed properly, and to the proper torque specs, AFTER a call to T&D (before I even started the install).
My mistake was not checking the rocker shaft studs, but it was also something that neither I, nor T&D thought needed to be checked. I simply undid the nuts, lifted off the old rockers, dropped the new ones on, and torqued to spec, as per T&D's instructions.
quote:Originally posted by 1Rocketship:Mike!.Mike!!...Mike!!!...NEVER ASSUME!!!...You had T&D on the phone...ASK THEM their procedure for tightening the studs!quote:Originally posted by mike the snake:
T&D said no loctite was necessary. Just tighten the studs in place (I'm assuming with the double jam-nut trick) and the using red locktite might make things difficult to undo if I have problems in the future and need to remove them for some reason.
The thing is, many of the studs are finger tight, and I'm not taking any chances.
The engine gets really hot, so I'm not sure how effective blue loctite will be.
I'm thinking sparing amounts of red locktite should hold things in place. If I have a stud issue, it's going to be either one coming out (like has just happened), or one will break off. In that case, the whole bracket will need to come off, and I can drill out the stud remains as I have many before, even with red locktite.
I just spent basically 2 days carefully installing these new rockers, and they lasted 3 minutes. I know how to keep that from happening again for sure, red locktite=no studs coming loose.
Without attempting to be harsh...at times your naivety is frightening!
If as you stated..."I just spent basically 2 days carefully installing these new rockers"...The installation would have lasted MORE THAN 3 MINUTES!!!
A brief 5 minute phone call to T&D PRIOR to your installation debacle to obtain the CORRECT installation procedure, would have in reality SAVED YOU "2 days".
You need to STOP the "1 step forward, 2 steps back" approach...Mark
Don't use vise grips on the studs. It is possible that you will be introducing "fault lines" in the steel shaft.
Double-nutting is by far a safer method.
This valve train is already exhibiting characteristics consistent with being over stressed or fatigued beyond it's safe duty cycle.
As a matter of fact, I would ask T&D if it was advisable to replace those studs and possibly even the steel mounting bracket.
They would have specific numbers from testing the durability and could tell you if that becomes necessary at some point.
There is no point in guessing at that now, and frankly should have come up in the discussion about the rocker arms needing to be rebuilt and why, IMO.
Double-nutting is by far a safer method.
This valve train is already exhibiting characteristics consistent with being over stressed or fatigued beyond it's safe duty cycle.
As a matter of fact, I would ask T&D if it was advisable to replace those studs and possibly even the steel mounting bracket.
They would have specific numbers from testing the durability and could tell you if that becomes necessary at some point.
There is no point in guessing at that now, and frankly should have come up in the discussion about the rocker arms needing to be rebuilt and why, IMO.
One thing that is interesting to me is that none of the studs came out or seemed loose when you removed the nuts holding the shafts in place.
Is there some kind of interference fit on the rocker shaft mounting bracket, or the shaft itself, that held onto the stud while you were removing the bolts?
Just curious. If the studs were loose, it would seem some of them might have backed out once the clamping force was removed from the assembly.
Rocky
Is there some kind of interference fit on the rocker shaft mounting bracket, or the shaft itself, that held onto the stud while you were removing the bolts?
Just curious. If the studs were loose, it would seem some of them might have backed out once the clamping force was removed from the assembly.
Rocky
help me visualize since I haven't look inside an engine.
do these studs "shoulder out" when torqued, on a flange / boss.
OR
do these studs "bottom out"?
do these studs "shoulder out" when torqued, on a flange / boss.
OR
do these studs "bottom out"?
Honestlty, I'm surprised this valvetrain has stayed together for so long.
The studs have two thread sizes, course that threads into the cradle mounting bracket, a 1/4" smooth section, then fine threads that hold the rocker shafts down.
EVERY ONE of the studs was finger tight, or just a tad tighter. I had the use the double jam nut trick on one or 2, but they were still ridiculously loose.
I took each rocker off (unloaded of course), removed each stud, added red licktite to every stud, and then tightened them all till they bottomed out, plus a little more. I used my "magic internal torque wrench" for that setting.
In any case, half is finished (this whole job is a total B!TCH working alone!) and I'm now just going to start on the other side.
The rockers simply got lifted off their cradles, and then set back in place, so the lash shouldn't have changed, but I'm going to go around and recheck the valve adjustment anyways. The rockers DO have 3 minutes on them now! lol
Anyways, no damage done, I thought it was over when I heard the ticking get louder and louder, and then have the hole die completely.
I'm still in the game! GO TEAM!
The studs have two thread sizes, course that threads into the cradle mounting bracket, a 1/4" smooth section, then fine threads that hold the rocker shafts down.
EVERY ONE of the studs was finger tight, or just a tad tighter. I had the use the double jam nut trick on one or 2, but they were still ridiculously loose.
I took each rocker off (unloaded of course), removed each stud, added red licktite to every stud, and then tightened them all till they bottomed out, plus a little more. I used my "magic internal torque wrench" for that setting.
In any case, half is finished (this whole job is a total B!TCH working alone!) and I'm now just going to start on the other side.
The rockers simply got lifted off their cradles, and then set back in place, so the lash shouldn't have changed, but I'm going to go around and recheck the valve adjustment anyways. The rockers DO have 3 minutes on them now! lol
Anyways, no damage done, I thought it was over when I heard the ticking get louder and louder, and then have the hole die completely.
I'm still in the game! GO TEAM!
Just went for a spectacular ride!
The old valvetrain was wonky for sure. The car runs the same, just better, and quieter.
Happy to report though that the car ran perfectly, with no issues, VERY quiet valvetrain (compared to before), got lots of waves and thumbs-ups at intersections, got sideways once (I just HAD to), and everything seems good.
Tune still needs work I believe, the idle is a little high, but that's all small stuff.
MY CAR IS RUNNING AGAIN! YAY!
Let's see for how long this time lol. My goal is to enjoy the car (running) until next year when I plan to go through the engine, and possibly the gearbox.
I'm wiped out. Took me a full 8-10 hour day to install the rockers (I went slow, and DID call T&D for torque specs. no instructions came with the rockers), all for a big 3 minute drive which included a big scare.
Today I started around 7am, undid everything I did yesterday and red locktited all the studs, and buttoned the car back up for the umpteened time, fired her up around 4 for the drive, my knees took the brunt of all of this. I'm hurtin. But happy.
The old valvetrain was wonky for sure. The car runs the same, just better, and quieter.
Happy to report though that the car ran perfectly, with no issues, VERY quiet valvetrain (compared to before), got lots of waves and thumbs-ups at intersections, got sideways once (I just HAD to), and everything seems good.
Tune still needs work I believe, the idle is a little high, but that's all small stuff.
MY CAR IS RUNNING AGAIN! YAY!
Let's see for how long this time lol. My goal is to enjoy the car (running) until next year when I plan to go through the engine, and possibly the gearbox.
I'm wiped out. Took me a full 8-10 hour day to install the rockers (I went slow, and DID call T&D for torque specs. no instructions came with the rockers), all for a big 3 minute drive which included a big scare.
Today I started around 7am, undid everything I did yesterday and red locktited all the studs, and buttoned the car back up for the umpteened time, fired her up around 4 for the drive, my knees took the brunt of all of this. I'm hurtin. But happy.
Congrats, Mike!
Have fun! Are you going back out tomorrow?
Rocky
Have fun! Are you going back out tomorrow?
Rocky
Hells Yeah!
I'm going to run it for a few miles, change in some cheap oil with zinc and zddp addative,, run it for a little more, and then change back in some good synthetic oil.
I've decided to try out synthetic oil. I've been a dino oil guy forever, but I'm going to do a flush or 2 and then change in some high zinc and zddp synthetic oil and hope that helps things hold together.
I'm going to run it for a few miles, change in some cheap oil with zinc and zddp addative,, run it for a little more, and then change back in some good synthetic oil.
I've decided to try out synthetic oil. I've been a dino oil guy forever, but I'm going to do a flush or 2 and then change in some high zinc and zddp synthetic oil and hope that helps things hold together.
I know it's difficult but you might try to keep the "sideways" tricks at a minimum for a while ... unless you enjoy doing a lot of garge work. Your total seat time is still limited. Just sayin'
Thanks for the good advice.
I'm older and not nearly as crazy as I was when I was younger.
My "sideways" is a big throttle blip 3/4 the way around a corner at an intersection in 1st usually, nothing crazy.
I am looking forward to wringing this car out someday when I know it's solid and wringable-outable.
I know from experience that going crazy with huge sticky rubber (Snow White has 335 slicks) causes things to break too.
I'm older and not nearly as crazy as I was when I was younger.
My "sideways" is a big throttle blip 3/4 the way around a corner at an intersection in 1st usually, nothing crazy.
I am looking forward to wringing this car out someday when I know it's solid and wringable-outable.
I know from experience that going crazy with huge sticky rubber (Snow White has 335 slicks) causes things to break too.
quote:Originally posted by mike the snake:
Hells Yeah!
I'm going to run it for a few miles, change in some cheap oil with zinc and zddp addative,, run it for a little more, and then change back in some good synthetic oil.
I've decided to try out synthetic oil. I've been a dino oil guy forever, but I'm going to do a flush or 2 and then change in some high zinc and zddp synthetic oil and hope that helps things hold together.
On the subject of "cheap oil", keep in mind that one could interpret some of the valve train issues to lubrication failure.
What was done in selecting components for this engine, much like in the construction of a drag race engine, not only stresses the components close to their yield points, but it does that to the oil also.
In my view, the LAST thing you want to run in this engine is cheap oil at ANYTIME for any reason. You want the best oil you can ALL OF THE TIME.
Now that I think of it, I'm even wondering if you should change the oil after EVERY RUN?
LOL!
ME TOO!
When I first drained the oil, all kinds of stuff came out, it was a really bad scene.
The car never started after that. I emptied the car one more time when we dropped the pan, and the oil looked horrible, (poured into a clear container) there were strata of different layers coarsenesses of material, even without running the engine.
It looks like the filter did it's job though, because I still have oil pressure and it still runs, but I want to do at least 2 more oil flushes to get all the residual crap out of the oil.
Maybe, and only maybe, then an oil test might actually tell me something, although I really don't care. It runs, it's getting rebuilt next year. I figure if I do these oil/filter flushes I'll be OK.
OK FINE! I'll only run good oil in the motor.
Now I have to research which synthetic oil I'm going to switch to.
ME TOO!
When I first drained the oil, all kinds of stuff came out, it was a really bad scene.
The car never started after that. I emptied the car one more time when we dropped the pan, and the oil looked horrible, (poured into a clear container) there were strata of different layers coarsenesses of material, even without running the engine.
It looks like the filter did it's job though, because I still have oil pressure and it still runs, but I want to do at least 2 more oil flushes to get all the residual crap out of the oil.
Maybe, and only maybe, then an oil test might actually tell me something, although I really don't care. It runs, it's getting rebuilt next year. I figure if I do these oil/filter flushes I'll be OK.
OK FINE! I'll only run good oil in the motor.
Now I have to research which synthetic oil I'm going to switch to.
OK, back to oil questions.
Previous owner ran 20-50 (I'm running non-synthetic Joe Gibbs hot rod 15-50) oil pressure never goes below 60 unless hot at idle.
I'm wondering if dropping a weight in oil might be a good thing to do.
Previous owner ran 20-50 (I'm running non-synthetic Joe Gibbs hot rod 15-50) oil pressure never goes below 60 unless hot at idle.
I'm wondering if dropping a weight in oil might be a good thing to do.
I'd look for an engineer, a licensed P.E. who's is specialized in automotive engines.
I suspect that under your current conditions and components, one of the components (maybe the rocker arms) are exceeding the design loading on the bearings, not to mention over stressing the tensile strength of the aluminum in the forging.
IF I remember that part of my engineering correctly, straight 30 weight engine oil is what the design consideration was for.
Using that weight and knowing the film strength would give you values to plug into a formula which would determine the size of the bearing area. Like I said, IF I am remembering this correctly?
That's a lot of Bass Ale ago. Actually Amstel Light is pretty good too?
Personally the synthetics strength is resistance to breaking down like natural oils do. Also resistance to dilution would be another plus.
I don't know. Go hire an engineer. Pay him for the consultation.
Places like Kar Kraft were all PE's in automotive engineering. They do exist. I just don't know where they are at now?
I suspect that under your current conditions and components, one of the components (maybe the rocker arms) are exceeding the design loading on the bearings, not to mention over stressing the tensile strength of the aluminum in the forging.
IF I remember that part of my engineering correctly, straight 30 weight engine oil is what the design consideration was for.
Using that weight and knowing the film strength would give you values to plug into a formula which would determine the size of the bearing area. Like I said, IF I am remembering this correctly?
That's a lot of Bass Ale ago. Actually Amstel Light is pretty good too?
Personally the synthetics strength is resistance to breaking down like natural oils do. Also resistance to dilution would be another plus.
I don't know. Go hire an engineer. Pay him for the consultation.
Places like Kar Kraft were all PE's in automotive engineering. They do exist. I just don't know where they are at now?
In reading, this engine was designed to run on 40 weight.
There ya' go.
Automotively speaking that's heavy oil. That should be telling you a lot right there about the loads the components are placing on the engine?
This engine is over stressed.
Can a race engine be run on the street? Sure, but at what cost.
Here I see this with mostly "Pro-street" cars.
Typically they have MAYBE 1,000 miles put on them for the season. Then in the off season, get torn down and re-built.
Admittedly I personally am haunted by the ghost of "Christmas Past". I just keep hearing a voice say, "NEVER RUN A SOLID ROLLER CAM ON THE STREET".
It can't be Dickens, his ghost wouldn't know what a solid roller cam is?
Maybe someone that I forgot I knew from the past, his wife couldn't take it anymore and shot him dead? Maybe not? Start mentioning some names, maybe I'll remember?
Automotively speaking that's heavy oil. That should be telling you a lot right there about the loads the components are placing on the engine?
This engine is over stressed.
Can a race engine be run on the street? Sure, but at what cost.
Here I see this with mostly "Pro-street" cars.
Typically they have MAYBE 1,000 miles put on them for the season. Then in the off season, get torn down and re-built.
Admittedly I personally am haunted by the ghost of "Christmas Past". I just keep hearing a voice say, "NEVER RUN A SOLID ROLLER CAM ON THE STREET".
It can't be Dickens, his ghost wouldn't know what a solid roller cam is?
Maybe someone that I forgot I knew from the past, his wife couldn't take it anymore and shot him dead? Maybe not? Start mentioning some names, maybe I'll remember?
Isn't it Mobil who says "it isn't just oil, it's liquid engineering"? 
I think what I have in this current situation, is a hot race/street engine, built around the year 2000 (my guess) that has been abused and run super hard on track, revved to over 8k probably every time it was run, and the rockers, after 15 years, have finally started to give up the ghost.
The aluminum bodies, while old, were not what was failing (on me, but I suspect maybe one or 2 had broken/split on the previous owner. That would explain how the needle bearings got out of their cages)but in either case, the bodies lasted a good, long, time (like a Charleston Chew).
I'm hoping with the new bodies, and rebuilt rocker set, and the other preventative mods I've made will keep this motor running for a while at least.
Next is tuning. I KNOW it's running super rich.
The aluminum bodies, while old, were not what was failing (on me, but I suspect maybe one or 2 had broken/split on the previous owner. That would explain how the needle bearings got out of their cages)but in either case, the bodies lasted a good, long, time (like a Charleston Chew).
I'm hoping with the new bodies, and rebuilt rocker set, and the other preventative mods I've made will keep this motor running for a while at least.
Next is tuning. I KNOW it's running super rich.
quote:Originally posted by mike the snake:
I think what I have in this current situation, is a hot race/street engine, built around the year 2000 (my guess) that has been abused and run super hard on track, revved to over 8k probably every time it was run, and the rockers, after 15 years, have finally started to give up the ghost.
The aluminum bodies, while old, were not what was failing (on me, but I suspect maybe one or 2 had broken/split on the previous owner. That would explain how the needle bearings got out of their cages)but in either case, the bodies lasted a good, long, time (like a Charleston Chew).
I'm hoping with the new bodies, and rebuilt rocker set, and the other preventative mods I've made will keep this motor running for a while at least.
Next is tuning. I KNOW it's running super rich.
Super rich? OK, but heed Bosswrench on this one ("messing with the 'setup' "). Your enemy here is going to be running suddenly lean.
I would predict an explosion of quite a bit less than one megaton but the rear deck lid will have a possibility of achieving orbiting velocity? Bada-boom. Big bada-boom.
Presently the car is running well, albeit super rich. I know because I can smell it, and it leaves carbon all over the back of the car after driving. Mileage sucks too.
Not worried about washing rings down, because it's been run exactly like this forever.
It would be nice to actually get a "tune" on the car though, but it's nothing I'm worrying myself about now. Heck, I JUST got the thing running reliably (to be seen) today!
If this thing does blow up, I hope it goes up in a huge, spectacular way, then it might be worth it ! lol. I have 3 fire extinguishers!
The way it's running though, I THINK (knocking on wood) that it MAY stay running until next year when I get to rebuilding, at which time it will be getting modern electronics.
Time will tell.
Not worried about washing rings down, because it's been run exactly like this forever.
It would be nice to actually get a "tune" on the car though, but it's nothing I'm worrying myself about now. Heck, I JUST got the thing running reliably (to be seen) today!
If this thing does blow up, I hope it goes up in a huge, spectacular way, then it might be worth it ! lol. I have 3 fire extinguishers!
The way it's running though, I THINK (knocking on wood) that it MAY stay running until next year when I get to rebuilding, at which time it will be getting modern electronics.
Time will tell.
Can anyone help me identify these fuel injectors?
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looks like a high impedance bosch 42lb'er. good for about 600hp fly on a naturally aspirated motor with 80% duty cycle. good match for your motor. you basically want the smallest injector you can use with your supported horsepower level. once you get to the learn how to tune the haltech you can start trimming the fuel if its running rich all over. i've run an accel gen6 which has a DOS gui but there were shortcut keys to trim fuel across the whole table or you could change trim depending on where its at while driving. You really should get an wideband o2 sensor/gauge in the car though once you start tinkering. Using the whole table kind of trim is something you do in the beginning when you are trying to get things running, but fine tuning should happen using a AFR gauge. Also depending on how your wideband is calculated its good to read up on where you want AFR to be, but I found that while tuning the the engine would respond to sweet spots that made shooting for certain ratios a lost cause. You can feel when the motor is making the best power even while a friend is driving and varying the driving loads. I used to get so caught up on light load and high load AFR targets that I would pull it out of where it wanted to be.
Does it smell rich at idle or is this more under load it smells like its dumping in a ton of fuel?
Does it smell rich at idle or is this more under load it smells like its dumping in a ton of fuel?
I believe it's just at idle and light load conditions that it's running Super rich.
Plugs tell me it's not running terribly rich, but at idle, at intersections, in my garage, it just stinks of fuel.
It also leaves carbon all over the back of the car after a drive.
I suspect though the rich part is just at idle and just above idle.
Anything past feathering the throttle and it sounds and runs beautifully. It runs good at idle, just rich.
A friend driving behind me noted he could smell my car running rich, but that's with the throttle at maybe 2% open.
I checked my holes with my Unisync tool today, they all checked out pretty close to each other so I didn't mess with anything. That linkage and all the adjustment screws are intimidating.
Plugs tell me it's not running terribly rich, but at idle, at intersections, in my garage, it just stinks of fuel.
It also leaves carbon all over the back of the car after a drive.
I suspect though the rich part is just at idle and just above idle.
Anything past feathering the throttle and it sounds and runs beautifully. It runs good at idle, just rich.
A friend driving behind me noted he could smell my car running rich, but that's with the throttle at maybe 2% open.
I checked my holes with my Unisync tool today, they all checked out pretty close to each other so I didn't mess with anything. That linkage and all the adjustment screws are intimidating.