Locating bits and pieces

EDIT ... SORRY, I didn't notice this was for the Mangusta

I can help with the brake light switch, but not on the wiper motor It is a pressure switch on the differential valve block

Actually, I found the brake light switch under the front end at a "T" fitting for the front brakes.

Still trying to find a good angle of attack for the wiper motor. Seems to me an interesting mechanism.

Thanks,

MH

quote:

what is the best way to get to the windshield wiper motor?

Located inside fender behind front right wheel, cover must be removed

after removing the metal cover the motor is fixed by a metal band by two screws.
Then to get the motor out you need to open the big screw (in picture) and then you can pull the "sift steal thread" out as the tubing is loose then. The wiper mechanism..(Wiper Wheel boxes in UK English, new once you can get from SVC UK) allows for pulling the thread out.

Matthias

My brake light switch is in the front of the car, left side at the T-block between the right and left brake lines. Follow the line from the front master cylinder. I think it is a VW Beetle part. I may have had to re-thread it.


DICK RUZZIN

SORRY,
That message is for the Mangusta!

Too early.
DICK RUZZIN

Looks something like this:
http://www.s-v-c.co.uk/product...stem--two-wheel-box/
or this:
https://www.carbuildersolution...windscreen-wiper-kit

anyone know the degree of the sweep or # of teeth?

God bless Al Gore for this Interweb thingy he invented, I'd be lost without it...

quote:

Originally posted by Mat_G:
after removing the metal cover the motor is fixed by a metal band by two screws.
Then to get the motor out you need to open the big screw (in picture) and then you can pull the "sift steal thread" out as the tubing is loose then. The wiper mechanism..(Wiper Wheel boxes in UK English, new once you can get from SVC UK) allows for pulling the thread out.

Matthias

M!ke I forgot the sweep and teeth (think 32)...BUT THEY KNOW!! just tell IT IS FOR PANTERA...the folks are experts..

Well I did order new WIPER Wheel Boxes as mine where bent only.
The Motor I did overhaul myself, is easy..you can do this..the only tricky thing is with the brushes when putting back the rotor. You use a thin thread to hold them back for install, then pull thread out!
..
if you provide me your e-mail will get you some pictures and comments on the HOW....
matthias_gruetzner@gmx.de
..this part is fun...
Matthias

I may give it a shot at rebuilding it, I'm usually good at that... thanks for the tip about using thread to keep the brushes back, sounds like good advice.

Is the Bundy tube lubricated with axle grease or white lithium or ???

My email is mhaney@3dtriad.com

The motor is a standard triumph TR6 motor as far as I know.


there is a huge price difference between the TR6 motor and the De Tomaso motor, even though its the same motor, this is what is known as "Marketing" I am told when I questioned one supplier!!!

Sure looks like it

https://www.bpnorthwest.com/wi...nEAQYAiABEgLFp_D_BwE

Looks like a standard 14W Lucas motor, these are available with different degree sweeps from about 85 through 135 degrees, so just check you are getting that correct or close.

Julian

isn't the sweep defined by the gear/crank? if so, reusing the old one might be an option if it's in good shape and the one you need isn't available...

Degrees of sweep from an old post by Julian.
http://pantera.infopop.cc/eve/...010090594#1010090594

Thanks Garth, to expand on that yes you can swap in the old crank, plus you can swap across the plastic gear and also swap the parking cam 180 degrees on the gear for parking wipers left or right side.

Actually if you are fooling with the brake light switch in the front on that T block I suggest you install an aftermarket brake proportioning valve. They have them now with included electric brake lighht switch. That eliminates the future problem of finding a switch that fits.

A proportioning valve is the single most important safety feature that you can add as a driving improvement. No more front brake lock-up and maximum stopping power.
DICK RUZZIN

Dick, is there a specific one (proportioning valve) that you can recommend? You're right, as long as I'm down there wrenching...

Does it proportion between left and right brakes? I thought proportioning valves were just to adjust bias between front and rear.

Thanks all for the help.

MH

Mike, only dirt-track sprint cars use side-to-side brake proportioning. Road cars always use front-to-back proportioning. Be sure to plumb any valve in such that it limits REAR brake pressures; Ford/DeTomaso plumbed our non-adjustable system in backwards for unknown reasons, and degrades Pantera brake performance. Wilwood sells a nice aluminum one, and the iron or brass Kelsey-Hayes valve was stock on '80s-up Corvettes. All need to be plumbed into your brake system, and it's desirable to NOT put the valve so its accessible to a driver. If you watch racing, you will certainly see several crashes per year from highly paid, professional drivers screwing around with their brake balance while underway. Recommended units are all knob-adjust valves; I do not recommend the lever-type-with-detents on street cars. Its too easy for someone to inadvertently bump it and radically change brake balance.

As for brake light switches, the common VW unit has the wrong thread to bolt into a DeTomaso. To simplify things, I recommend a full-electric switch that attaches to your brake pedal under the dash with no hydraulic plumbing at all. A cheap GM switch for an '80s Z-28 works well with the addition of a simple home-made bracket, and avoids the problem of most stock electro-hydraulic switches failing internally and leaking brake fluid. I had one fail that squirted fluid several feet out of the switch top. Not easy to diagnose the 'leak' on the other side of the engine compartment, and made quite a mess attacking paint...

That's what I thought... front and rear are plumbed separately and it appears that this "T" fitting only splits left & right on the front. so I wasn't sure how putting a proportioning valve there would balance front to rear...

I'm still learning my way around this beast.

I'm not sure all of the differences between the Mangusta's and the Pantera's. This "T" fitting and the hydraulic switch are in the front under the radiator. seems like if it blew it'd just shoot fluid on the ground.

I like the idea of the generic mechanical switch on the pedal, might go that route if a simpler solution doesn't fall into my lap...

Thanks,

MH