Time for me. Who likes the aluminum Fluidyne and who like the Hall brass phoenix?
What about the Miriaha fans from Hall?
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I installed a Fluidyne a couple of years ago. I had never been able to drive my car for more than a few minutes before it got dangerously close to overheating, and heaven forbid I should get stuck in traffic. I found myself spending so much time and attention looking at the temperature gauge, that it was dangerous to driving the car. Ever since I installed the Fluidyne, it's been a non-issue. Highly recommended.
Another item I would highly recommend is the Pantera Electronics radiator fan controller. It takes the load off the fuse panel and ignition and ramps both fans up to top speed depending on coolant temp.
I've got the Fluidyne with twin sucker fans from P.I. Motorsports.
I have the fans turn on at 195 via the EFI control, and they stay off most of the time if you are moving on the freeway. Saw max about 216 degrees running uphill in 90 degree weather. System works great.
Just make sure you have a high output alternator to serve the radiator fans, blower fans, a/c fan, and headlights all at once. I vote for the 140 amp Powermaster.
I have the fans turn on at 195 via the EFI control, and they stay off most of the time if you are moving on the freeway. Saw max about 216 degrees running uphill in 90 degree weather. System works great.
Just make sure you have a high output alternator to serve the radiator fans, blower fans, a/c fan, and headlights all at once. I vote for the 140 amp Powermaster.
I'm kinda afraid of the Fluidyne. It is aluminum and you just can't solder that thing up to fix a leak.
Anyone out there where their Fluidyne has lasted more then 5 years?
Anyone out there where their Fluidyne has lasted more then 5 years?
quote:Anyone out there where their Fluidyne has lasted more then 5 years?
Mine is going on seven years...
If I can remember I think I'm going on 7/8 years!
Agreed! I was very disappointed in mine which started leaking after only 3 years! My stock rad lasted 25 years. Anyhow, I got another Fluidyne. It's still the best priced rad. This time I used Norosion coolant and we'll see how long it lasts. So far so good.
I always based my decisions, rightly or wrongly, on what Gary Hall would tell me. Gary's gone a while now so what what he said might be dated. He told me he would not sell me a Fluidyne. It was a piece of junk.
Aluminum radiators don't dissipate more heat then brass does. The only benefit to aluminum was to reduce the weight of the car for racing. The Fluidyne had a time clock running on it and would fail and leak within a couple of years. There seems to be supporting evidence to that effect? Sounds like about a 50% failure rate withing 5 years to me?
Compare that to the original radiator, which in my case is still good but the problem for me is that I am listening to everyone else in saying to change it and some of the fine fins have detached themselves from the fluid tubes and are floating. I don't like that.
Gary thought that the Phoenix was the way to go. He admitted that it was a monster size wise but was tested in the summer in Phoenix and the car ran normally? His criteria was that there would be no possibility of under capacity, which I think he achieved?
Wilkinson on the other hand thinks that Halls radiator is a joke. Gross overkill? It is brass and is not light. It is repairable though.
Wilkinson and Hall are certainly good to use as yardsticks and often seem to find themselves at odds? Halls thinking seemed to be in the "ultra Pantera" category, while Wilkinson's in the, what's wrong with the original theory?
Bev Hall doesn't even know what the Phoenix is, they just have their own radiator now to sell? I believe it is the Phoenix since it is 50% greater capacity then original.
Both are in the same price category so that isn't really an issue here.
This is why I asked you guys here about all this. As usual there is a 100% disagreement on the results and it is up to me to determine, based upon all data, which is the best way to go.
It would seem that the vendors opinions are biased upon which product they handle. I suspect that simply is a function of what they can make the most money on? None of them are angles in that sense.
I will say to all that I have received private messages asking for anonymity that the Fluidyne was a mistake. Don't go that way.
To some I suppose, going $600 every couple of years is no big deal and is more then acceptable?
I suppose that there is no perfect unit, at least in the eyes of the beholder?
I thank everyone for their inputs. I am not judgmental on the opinions. I need to decide for myself.
Aluminum radiators don't dissipate more heat then brass does. The only benefit to aluminum was to reduce the weight of the car for racing. The Fluidyne had a time clock running on it and would fail and leak within a couple of years. There seems to be supporting evidence to that effect? Sounds like about a 50% failure rate withing 5 years to me?
Compare that to the original radiator, which in my case is still good but the problem for me is that I am listening to everyone else in saying to change it and some of the fine fins have detached themselves from the fluid tubes and are floating. I don't like that.
Gary thought that the Phoenix was the way to go. He admitted that it was a monster size wise but was tested in the summer in Phoenix and the car ran normally? His criteria was that there would be no possibility of under capacity, which I think he achieved?
Wilkinson on the other hand thinks that Halls radiator is a joke. Gross overkill? It is brass and is not light. It is repairable though.
Wilkinson and Hall are certainly good to use as yardsticks and often seem to find themselves at odds? Halls thinking seemed to be in the "ultra Pantera" category, while Wilkinson's in the, what's wrong with the original theory?
Bev Hall doesn't even know what the Phoenix is, they just have their own radiator now to sell? I believe it is the Phoenix since it is 50% greater capacity then original.
Both are in the same price category so that isn't really an issue here.
This is why I asked you guys here about all this. As usual there is a 100% disagreement on the results and it is up to me to determine, based upon all data, which is the best way to go.
It would seem that the vendors opinions are biased upon which product they handle. I suspect that simply is a function of what they can make the most money on? None of them are angles in that sense.
I will say to all that I have received private messages asking for anonymity that the Fluidyne was a mistake. Don't go that way.
To some I suppose, going $600 every couple of years is no big deal and is more then acceptable?
I suppose that there is no perfect unit, at least in the eyes of the beholder?
I thank everyone for their inputs. I am not judgmental on the opinions. I need to decide for myself.
I do believe that your Fluidyne data may be dated. I believe the issue was that they at one point epoxied the core to the side tanks and the epoxy would fail. Recogniziong the error, Fluidyne changed the technique to solder. Thus, I believe the older Fluidynes were a problem and the newer less so. This is why you may be recieving mixed feedback.
Panteradoug,
I totally follow your last post.
I"m looking to replace or rebuild my stock radiator. I actually appreciate the opinions here. Every vendor has their own wildly different opinion, and it is truely frustrating.
Facts about the Hall radiator are simple: it seems very suited for street cars and can be easily repaired by a radiator shop. It's heavy.
Facts about the Fluidyne (maybe even the Ron Davis one also): it's lightweight and works well. Some versions may be undersized for high-hp engines. They can't be repaired by your average radiator shop. Beware of any radiator that use zip ties to mount the fans to the core. I can't say that they last as long, as I don't really know that.
I hope this adds to the discussion. I'm not saying any vendor's advise isn't worth much, but how in the world do they get so wildly different?
I totally follow your last post.
I"m looking to replace or rebuild my stock radiator. I actually appreciate the opinions here. Every vendor has their own wildly different opinion, and it is truely frustrating.
Facts about the Hall radiator are simple: it seems very suited for street cars and can be easily repaired by a radiator shop. It's heavy.
Facts about the Fluidyne (maybe even the Ron Davis one also): it's lightweight and works well. Some versions may be undersized for high-hp engines. They can't be repaired by your average radiator shop. Beware of any radiator that use zip ties to mount the fans to the core. I can't say that they last as long, as I don't really know that.
I hope this adds to the discussion. I'm not saying any vendor's advise isn't worth much, but how in the world do they get so wildly different?
My point here is not to defend or deficate on vendors, manufacturers or individuals. I need to extricate as much of the truth as I can within a given amount of time,
I do understand that opinions will vary. It is disturbing to find major experts like Hall and Wilkinson disagreeing so vehemently.
Not necessarily thinking of Pantera owners review statements here but I do acknowledge reading tire reviews at the Tire rack. One in particular sticks in my mind.
It was a review of snow tires by an owner in
Florida. He commented that he had about 150 miles on them and that they wore very well and were great in the snow. It was August.
Think about that a little,
So what is the advantage of the Fluidyne if you don't hate Hall
I do understand that opinions will vary. It is disturbing to find major experts like Hall and Wilkinson disagreeing so vehemently.
Not necessarily thinking of Pantera owners review statements here but I do acknowledge reading tire reviews at the Tire rack. One in particular sticks in my mind.
It was a review of snow tires by an owner in
Florida. He commented that he had about 150 miles on them and that they wore very well and were great in the snow. It was August.
Think about that a little,
So what is the advantage of the Fluidyne if you don't hate Hall
To Bev's defense, she always tells it like it is and she knows what it is not. And it's not the Phoenix. They don't sell them anymore. I also heard that the newer Fluidynes are less prone to corrosion. I know many guys who have not had any problems for years with theirs. Given the deal on Fluidynes is about half the price of a brass 'not Phoenix' rad and that the in and out tubes are in a different configuration, I opted to give Fluidyne another chance. Wilkinson speaks highly of them and his decent price and the simplicity of the install not affecting my current layout, tube and hose locations and 3 fans, my choice was easier.
There is very little difference in cost. Hall is 625. Wilkinson $525(not stated which radiator). Procision (fluidyne) 561. Not enough top argue over, especially to get the right unit.
Halls whether or not it is the Phoenix, says 50% greater capacity.
I wish Marlin would stop holding back and say what he means to say?
Halls whether or not it is the Phoenix, says 50% greater capacity.
I wish Marlin would stop holding back and say what he means to say?
Fluidyne is also available on eBay for $550 with free shipping. The same guy has been selling them for a long time.
http://tinyurl.com/Fluidyne-Radiator
John
http://tinyurl.com/Fluidyne-Radiator
John
Summit sells the Fluidyne for $530. Again, Mine is going on 7 years without an issue. As I see it, the 2 reasons to go with Aluminum is weight and cost. If those aren't issues for you then Brass is the answer... To each their own...
There is also a Superior aluminum radiator online at ebay. Anyone here know anything about it? Sounds like it is only 2" thick?
The Fluidyne is 3.5" thick. That's a monster if you ask me? Who said the Phoenix was overkill?
The only issue I have with the alumimum is durability. Here in the Northeast, I get corrosion on the car in the garage because of the salt used on the roads in the winters.
These aluminum radiators are delivered in "polished" finish. That's not any protection at all.
Brass radiators just don't have problems like that.
The Fluidyne has just a 1 year guaranty? Wonder why? Wonder if it will make it 35 years like the brass did?
Decisions, decisions? What's a boy to do?
The Fluidyne is 3.5" thick. That's a monster if you ask me? Who said the Phoenix was overkill?
The only issue I have with the alumimum is durability. Here in the Northeast, I get corrosion on the car in the garage because of the salt used on the roads in the winters.
These aluminum radiators are delivered in "polished" finish. That's not any protection at all.
Brass radiators just don't have problems like that.
The Fluidyne has just a 1 year guaranty? Wonder why? Wonder if it will make it 35 years like the brass did?
Decisions, decisions? What's a boy to do?
quote:Brass radiators just don't have problems like that.
The Fluidyne has just a 1 year guaranty? Wonder why? Wonder if it will make it 35 years like the brass did?
Decisions, decisions? What's a boy to do?
If Weight or Price isn't an issue then you should get Brass. It sounds like Brass is the best fit for what you are looking for. IE: Longevity...
After reading many posts regarding the reliability (or lack there of) of aluminum radiators, I decided to have my radiator recored by the only shop locally that recores radiators these days. Works great in stop-and-go traffic with A/C on in 90+ degree temps and high humidity. I should be good for another 39 years. 
Ron
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Ron
#3336
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I looked into having my stock radiator re-cored, and it was $400+. Not cheap, but for longevity, it would probably work fine. I'm not sure how long an aluminum radiator will last, but since many oem radiators are aluminum, maybe it wouldn't be too bad. The radiator shops tell me that the oem aluminum radiators are different than the aftermarket radiators, but I have forgotten how. It seems like it was something to do with the alloy and the design. The radiator shops also recommend a rebuilt stock or brass-type, and don't recommend aftermarket aluminum radiators for street-driven cars. (I admit that they're biased to what they sell) If I'm not driving the car much, there's still corrosion potential, but it's much less than your grocery-getter. I could see how a car like our Panteras that don't see 10k miles per year could be fine with an aluminum radiator.