Shoulder Harness Bracket Size and advise on 4 point set up

Team!
The seat belt set up needs to be fixed. My aim is 4 point, may be 3  point set up.

so far I have fiddled a standard 3 point into the Rocker-side-space as original (although only 2 points original =  non- adequate for me), by adding some sheet SS metal to get the right distance and angel inside the rocker space. Belt system works but the set up is not nice. I would need to flip the two cover Steel plates left to right and right to left and then have some stich the belts fixture back in place, as I need to un-sew it to fit in the original slit. Will not do that.

Also the mounting for 3 point on the firewall I do not like as it makes it, as I guess, harder to open the firewall up for engine access..Correct???)

So think I would go for 4 points bels set up via Shoulder harness. Hence my questions for USERS of this set up within the Team:

1) can you please comment on the setup, is it workable or too cumbersome to get the belt set and straightened?    I do not drive the car to Win Dixi or Albertsson , her ALDI etc..for a beer (case)      

2) can someone please measure the WIDTH and THICKNESS of the Shoulder Harness Bracket (can build it myself as US import is terribly expensive at the end.., better get several cases of beer instead..via my cargo BMW 540V8 Sedan)

3) Europeans ..Which 4 point belt system with EU approval do you use PLEASE !!!

please comment, any suggestions appreciated.

Matthias ..... nice cat it is..
Original Post

Matthias

I have a harness 4 points in my Westfield, it's really not practical to go to ALDI to buy beers, you can not move, you can not advance the bust to better see the cars that arrive on the side in the crossings, you can not turn around to do maneuvers in the car parks. It's great on the tracks but not on the streets.

PS: When do you come to show me your red cat?

 

ok I see..

============ have not tested the copy feature so far... ====

René...

merci , understand that was my guess as a problem..so will CONTINIUE on 3 POINT..
P.S.: I will come to see you and progress on your deep detailed chassis  work!!!, today/2018 just toooo anxious the red cat might fail on the 300 km trip. , did only 500 km in total on the engine and ALL stuff I did, as you know EVERY screw was toughted.. Need to do some Quality assurance stuff (QA) over the winter, as found some adjustmens need to be fixed. You  might come and see me, will invite my French Lady friend  to be here....big smile !!!! 

============================

Rocky

tell me more..I am not happy to have extra Bolds on the firewall..
any other GOOD 3 Point belt options???  I have no idea on Land Cruiser (happy to buy one of the vintage class cars..still serching). Back to Seat belts .any thought please though experience..? Ref RenĂ© 4 point is a mess for "daily" driving..what I thought..but not hoped..

===============

 

Tx Team

Matthias ....cat is the garage, loked with heavy cat 8 wires and savety lock..you never know ..all ready for the winter to come....

  Matthias

 

I have a 5 point harness, I would not install a 4 point without the sub belt even in a Pantera as you can slide out under a 4 point in a heavy impact. The harness does restrict your movement and accessibility, I am 6ft and the seat is far enough back I cannot turn the ignition key with shoulder belts on. I am thinking of going back to a more traditional 3 point harness for accessibility and I'm past the 'racer' look.

As I am the only driver once the harness was set for me I have no problem, it does take a little for various passengers to get everything straight. Although not installed yet I have a flat firewall kit that would make access to the engine bay a non-issue even with the should bar in place. You can modify your own bulkhead for easy access relatively easily and I am sure there are discussions on how to do this if you search the forum. In the later cars with the belt reel on the lower bulkhead it is just one more screw to remove the belt cover before removing the bulkhead, a non issue IMO.

Mat- you can fix most of the 'difficult removal of the firewall upholstery' by first removing the whole panel.  From the back,  there are 2 rows of tiny nuts along the vertical sides of the bubble around the water pump. What this means is, the vinyl upholstering around the bubble was done separately from the main panel. Once all the little nuts are removed and the strip of steel the studs are welded to pushed free, the bubble's upholstery can be carefully pulled off from the front, leaving the sides of the main panel still upholstered and exposing the fiberglas of the bubble.

The fiberglas bubble can be sawed free of the main fiberglas panel with a fine wood saw, then the bubble's upholstery replaced on it with upholsterer's glue. The edges of the main panel upholstery can be tucked in around the cut edges and also glued; touch up with a black Magic Marker as req'd. The cut should follow closely to the edges of the factory holes already drilled for the bubble upholstery nuts, and across the top. Now the main panel will bolt into the car and the bubble can be returned to its place using a few pieces of velcro on the steel door. It will look stock but can be pulled off separately from the main panel without tools, to quickly access the steel firewall door underneath. Some add an unobtrusive drawer handle or knobs. The upholstered bubble will fit underneath the usual shoulder bar and can still be removed. There are tech articles on this procedure going back over 30 years.

The shoulder bar as sold by Hall Panteras in CA is a piece of 5/8" thick x 1-1/2" wide mild steel bar stock nearly 4 feet long, contoured at each end to follow the curvature of the window upholstery roll. Hall powder-coats the bar gloss black for appearance. On some cars, one or both bar ends must be rebent (cold) a little so the predrilled holes in the bar will match up to the stock bolts that hold the main upholstery panel in place. Works well with Hall's shoulder straps but is VERY heavy!

ok TX I see. Well we miss all the old docs as you know, we are youngsters on the Cat topics...

if I take the Bubble part from the firewall cover off,  I am happy to go with the 3 point set up with the seat belt roll mechanism on the steal wall behind the seat, and the other anchor point then goes in the rocker as original. Tx Bosswrench and Joules.

Only I have to see how I can bold on the roll mechanism as reenforcement as my 4907 has nothing there (early model so to say). Hope I can reach the spot from behind, so may be only a steal plate as reenforcement there will do the job.

TX again, can now complete the interior as carpets are let out etc due to the seat belt discussion.

Matthias

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