Some good...some bad! It passed the MoT test ... But it over heated on the way home.

Are you using a correct 351C thermostat with the hat? Sounds like you could have a 351W thermostat which is allowing the water to merely circulate through the engine without forcing it to the radiator. Marlin Jack on this board sells the correct thermostat with a precision machined hat.

I don't think I explained that very well...the is water in the lower tank but I can't see the upper tank but I think that's just for expansion anyway..the pipes going towards the front of the car are hot..but the ones returning to the radiator are cold...is there an electric pump or is it belt driven, is it possible I've got and air lock? Coolant is not leaking anywhere either so I'm stuck...but I do have an mot!...they must have missed the cracked windscreen that I'm still waiting on the replacement.

Great to hear you are legal...too bad on the roll back home

the original coolant system is a belt driven water pump off the engine's front pulley

Congratulations on you getting the MOT, not an easy accomplishment in the UK.
Did the water tank spit out water or did it read high on the temp gauge?
The water pump is driven off the engine pulley with a belt that also drives the alternator. If your battery was charging / amp meter reading or alternator lamp not on, your belt is most likely installed and running. Water pumps generally leak when they fail, they normally don't stop moving water.
The thermostat being stuck closed is the most common reason for over heating. The 351c thermostat is unique to this engine and if the incorrect one is used, it can also cause overheating. Have a look at George's post in this link which have pictures..
http://pantera.infopop.cc/eve/...50045562/m/346105744

A stuck thermostat will cause overheating pretty quickly. Remove the engine cover over the air filter, remove the air filter and you should be able to see / touch the engine water outlet pipe and see where it connects to the water tank. Start the car and let it idle, watch the water temp gauge (hopefully the water temp sensor is located in the engine block right next to where the water outlet pipe bolts to the engine, which holds the thermostat). After a couple of minutes if you are touching the water pipe you will feel it get a little warmer. When the water temp gauge starts to get near half way, the water pipe will or should suddenly get very warm as the thermostat opens. You can use an IR heat gun if you have one, your gauge may read lower when the thermostat opens. Don't let the car over heat.
In the link above is a diagram of the water flow, only the system tank has a pressure cap.
Or you can look at JFB's post who beat me to it..

You sir are a great help....even I can understand those instruction...as soon as I get back from work tomorrow I'll have a go and let you know...thanks again for the advice

I am so reluctant to ask this because it make me sound like a complete hairdresser...but. In the diagram there appears to be two radiators...I've only seen and checked the one in the extream rear of the car ...the one with an electric fan and a tank at the side that looks like an oil cooler....is this the only rad or is there another?

quote:

I've only seen and checked the one in the extream rear of the car

That's not a rad. It' part of the Air Conditioning system. The little tank beside it is the dryer. The much larger cooling radiator is up front. The heater core is enclosed in a box under the dash and you can't really see it.

Doug M

And don't worry about sounding like a hairdresser. The only way to learn about the car is to ask.

Doug M

So what's wrong with sounding like and being a hairdresser? You don't like my hair?

I seem to have lost some of the links...regarding the access and position of the thermostat...can anyone help please

If you not seeing images in the threads (including Doug's monkey), you are most likely not logged into the forum. I see the pictures and the threads work for me.
If you still having problems, attach a picture of what you are seeing.

quote:

Originally posted by bdud:
If you not seeing images in the threads (including Doug's monkey), you are most likely not logged into the forum. I see the pictures and the threads work for me.
If you still having problems, attach a picture of what you are seeing.

MONKEY? Don't you know an Orangutan when you see us?

The link missing is the one explaining where the thermostat is and how to gain access...other than using a garden spade and crowbar as is my usual preferred access method of access to cars that throw a tantrum after $65k and 1 mile....maybe I should buy a Toyota!

Still can't see the thermostat !

The thermostat is not easy to see or get to on a Pantera, not sure it will show it in any of those links. It is at the front of the engine under that metal pipe that goes to the system tank. 2 bolts hold that pipe down onto the engine block. Here is a picture of mine from the inside with the bulkhead cover removed.

No need to be rash and get a Toyota, life is not that bad. I would try to get to the thermostat from the back by crawling on top of the gearbox. Remove the engine cover, air filter - put a rag or tape over the carb to stop dropping parts in the engine, you may have to remove the distributor cap or disconnect some leads - may sure you note where they go.
Disconnect a pipe from underneath or just all the water / antifreeze come out when you remove the thermostat 2 bolts. It is normally treated as a hazardous waste, don't get it in your eyes, you will know why.
To fill up use the older "green" style anti freeze. The modern stuff is not compatible with the copper / lead / solder in the heater and engine radiator. It also needs to be replaced every couple of years to prevent corrosion.
Picture from the back. Still not easy to see..

it looks do-able..I'll get my spoons and spanners out tonight and have a go...the missing link advised going in through the rear bulkhead...is this not an option without using oxy-acetlene?

If you have the stock style swirl and overflow tanks, you might make a little less of a mess by using a thin piece of tubing and syphening the coolant our of both tanks as low as it will go.

The coolant has to come out somehow - better to catch as much of it as you can versus pouring it out through the radiator pipe connection into your interior.


Rocky

quote:

Originally posted by Pishadeperro:
it looks do-able..I'll get my spoons and spanners out tonight and have a go...the missing link advised going in through the rear bulkhead...is this not an option without using oxy-acetlene?

Put down the torch and crowbar and step away from the car.. Or I will set Doug's Orangeetange on you.
You can get to the front of the engine for changing belts, water pump etc by removing the cover behind the seats. Some cars are different on what panels are installed and some cars have been modified.
On my car I slide the 2 seats forward, tilt the seat backs forward, remove the top seatbelt retractor guides, a couple of thin long screws holding the upholstered cover at the bottom and then lift the complete cover up over thin metal hooks that are located at the top near where you removed the seatbelt bolts. Underneath is a metal dished cover that has many bolts around its edge. You can then see the front of the engine.