Skip to main content

I recently purchased Dave Ferrot's #5972 project Pantera.

A prior owner to Dave completed paint/body work and part of the purchase price included a Ton of Pantera parts (take-offs and lots of new parts)so now it's time to reassemble.

Earlier I posted a message about needing a wiring harness but while going thru the parts I found the original harness.

Upon inspection the harness looks to be in good shape and I've read several posts indicating the stock harness is OK to use but should be improved for better functionality and reliability.

I plan to go thru the entire harness, clean connections, repair/replace worn/damaged items and upgrade components as needed.

Does someone have a list of the suggested harness improvements?
Some upgrades owners mentioned in previous posts:
$78 ignition bypass
$305 fuse box
$225 headlight motor controller
$260 radiator controller
$257 console switch controller
Changing wire gauge on a particular circuit to handle the load better

I'm concerned about the harness upgrade cost. One reason I wanted to go with the stock harness was to save money but some owners think it's less expensive overall to go with a new Painless harness.

My head is swimming and I'm getting dizzy thinking about 'what should I do' ...

Your comments/suggestions will allow me to create a harness refurbish/upgrade/install plan.

Thanks for your comments guys and it's Great to finally be a Pantera Owner and not just lurking on this Forum dreaming about 'what if'' … Thumbs Up!
Bill
Original Post

Replies sorted oldest to newest

Now seems like a good time to route heavy guage "primary" fused circuits to the up front radiator fan, and to the ignition area, and wire in relays at these spots.

Now is probably a good time to figure out the replacement plan to install a voltmeter, instead of an ammeter in your console.

Are you going to run the stock alternator with the remote voltage regulator?

What ignition do you plan to use?

Figure those out early, probably easier to plan the wiring with the harness out.

Do you need any other circuits? Stereo?

The fusebox modified for blade fuses (Jon Haas or PPC) that uses the stock connections is certainly the easiest install.

Remember, the enemy of "good enough" is better....

Do you KNOW you need all that stuff?

If money, time and work are no object, then go for it!

Rocky
Bill,

Welcome to Pantera ownership, when I got my first Pantera I was uninformed and started reading all the forums etc. and became overloaded with a list of projects I thought I needed to do to make the car reliable. The problem is it's cumulative, you are only on the wiring right now, if you take this approach to the whole car you'll be years out and likely get frustrated.

The wiring harness is not a concern and you say it is good condition, I know of no one who has replaced it for the sake of it! Fact is there are a lot of Pantera's out there that are reliable and haven't been modified at all! The only wiring I have upgraded on my '74 is replacing a couple relays with modern equivalents.

My recommendation; stop reading it's just a distraction from getting work done! Focus on putting the car back together with all the parts you have, there really isn't much you 'have to do' while it's apart. Get it running, drive it and live with it for a while and you will gain a much better idea of what you want your Pantera to be like. This is by far the best path forward to end up with the car of your dreams and for you wallet.

Julian
Bill,

I have to agree with Julian. Just put the car together and get it running. Driving it will expose any areas you'd like to modify. Even if you insist on a few of the P.E. mods, have them ready, so you can swap them in once the car's together and running. None of them are more than a Saturday afternoon job. You'll save time and have a better understanding of the mods. You'll appreciate them more too.
Most immediate I would install a volt meter in place of the ammeter, every once in a while the ammeter gets things in the interior a little too hot (causes fires). Hall Pantera has a replacement voltmeter. Also disassemble the ignition switch and clean the contacts. That will save a lot head scratching right there.

Less immediate, electrical gremlins resulting from poor fuse connections have been an issue since the cars were new. Larry Stock, proprietor of Pantera Parts Connection, modifies the OEM fuse box to accept modern fuses. Its really not a wiring modification, just a drop-in replacement. But it saves having to wiggle fuses to get thing to work.

Eventually there are 3 loads to remove from the ignition switch: (1) The radiator fans, (2) the ignition, and (3) the headlights. The fan circuit is a wonky design to begin with, that's why I listed it first. None of these have to be done right away.

When voltage regulation becomes an issue replace the OEM mechanical voltage regulator with a solid state replacement.
Hi Bill,

I'm based out of Monroe, originally from the big easy. Working on my second Pantera, learned the hard way on a lot of issues since there is little support in this neck of the woods.
Just took the first road trip of any distance from Monroe to Little Rock last week. No problems other than being worn out when I got there.
Let me know how I can help. This forum is great and has most of the info you need, despite opinions by many that differ.....but that's part of it.
While working on the wiring harness I was thinking about installing Dynamat in the Interior compartment to dampen sound and heat. Have you guys used this product. Would you recommend it? Is there something better for sound/heat? Does installing this product make it harder to install the interior components?
Sorry, I have a Million questions ...
Thanks
BillT; Regarding your electrical concerns, may I suggest that since your wiring is out of the car, go to the website that JFB05177 suggested (www.panteraplace.com/page107.htm), and scroll down to the section where you can download the complete wiring diagram, and have it blown up in size for ease in following the wiring. (Had mine blown up 36"x24")
Personally, I did the color coded diagram which helped immensely when labeling and following wires, and conducting continuity checks. I also removed the hardened, brittle, sheathing encasing the wires to more easily check the wiring. When installing, I reassembled the wiring in a protective casement.
BillT; Most of the auto parts chains carry electrical sheathing in various diameters to protect the wiring from chafing. The largest bundle of wires will be under the dash running from the fuse box to the instrument cluster and is secured by the metal prongs that bend over the wires to secure the harness. I used shrink wrap over the metal prongs & electrical tape around the wiring to protect the wiring. The other large wire loom will be from the fuse box, through the right rocker panel feeding the rear wiring harness.

Add Reply

Post
×
×
×
×
Link copied to your clipboard.
×