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IF you already have IDA's I personally see no point in going to IDFs.
The IDAs can in effect have in intermediate circuit created by adding another transfer slot hole to the carb.
In addition, if you are starting from scratch, electronic fuel injection would be the way to go.
The set up would cost about the same except for the addition of the CPU needed for the FI.
I suppose it all depends on how one conceives of the car as either an up to date ultra modern or a retro, period unit from the early 70s?
No matter which CARB system you choose, you still need to deal with the reversion in the carbs from the cam overlap. Not so on the FI.

Can someone explain what the mass is on the bottom of this manifold casting? To me it looks like an exhaust cross over plenum but there is none on this manifold.

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Doug said "The IDA transition "issue" can be minimized by adding a third transition hole in the carb."
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Doug please explain, I've never heard of that.

Also can anyone give their personal experiences on the IDF's on a Cleveland?

Is the Cain manifold a magnesium or aluminum? Looks like pickled mag...sort of like the McKay magnesium manifold I ran on the SBC. I personally wouldn't want a magnesium manifold on a street driven car. I had to drain the cooling system every time the car sat for more than a day because the magnesium corroded so quickly. A deal killer for a street car driven on a regular basis.

Also, will the IDF's WITH an air cleaner fit under the deck lid?
quote:
Originally posted by Tom@Seal Beach:
Doug said "The IDA transition "issue" can be minimized by adding a third transition hole in the carb."
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Doug please explain, I've never heard of that.

Also can anyone give their personal experiences on the IDF's on a Cleveland?

Is the Cain manifold a magnesium or aluminum? Looks like pickled mag...sort of like the McKay magnesium manifold I ran on the SBC. I personally wouldn't want a magnesium manifold on a street driven car. I had to drain the cooling system every time the car sat for more than a day because the magnesium corroded so quickly. A deal killer for a street car driven on a regular basis.

Also, will the IDF's WITH an air cleaner fit under the deck lid?


The IDF is being touted as a street carb vs the IDA, a racing carb.

If you catch the comments about the IDF, "it has a mid-range circuit".

One of the idiosyncrasies of the IDA is that on an IR manifold on a V8, there is an rpm range, observed on most cars to be about a 400rpm spot, between 2,500 rpms and 3,200 rpms where the engine becomes unresponsive to throttle input, i.e., a flat spot.

I do not know if the transition flat spot exists if the carb is used on a common plenum manifold. It may be a IR manifold issue. Don't know.

This is caused by the design of the carb itself.
It has a hole in the throttle bore, below the throttle butterfly through which the idle adjustment screw projects. It has another just above the throttle plate at idle position.

This is usually called the idle transfer slot in other carbs like the Holley. On the IDA, it isn't a slot, it's these two holes.

Now, cut me some slack on this because I am doing this from memory, ok?

I believe there are two holes in there. The access to them is through the slotted brass screw under the idle adjustment screw.

I believe there are two holes, one like I said for the idle screw needle, another above it maybe at 3/16" higher, above the throttle plate and at the notch in the plate.

That distance between the two is the significant part to this transition between idle/part throttle and main fuel system.

That distance also coincides with the "transition flat spot" of the mentioned rpm spread above.

In attempting to eliminate or reduce the flat spot, some "tuners" have added a third hole, in between those two existing.

This lets the idle circuit continue to a higher rpm range overlapping the main circuit kick in.

Now I personally think that because these are hole and not slots (like in a Holley) you can not entirely eliminate the flat spot with it, but you certainly can reduce it.

I do not have this modification on my carbs. Some days my flat spot is there, some days it isn't. That does have to do with a lot of things including the size of the chokes, and most importantly, the WEATHER. Clean, dry low humidity air accentuates the flat spot. More humidity tranquilizes it some.

IDA's change with the weather, like it or not.

The bigger the chokes, the more consistent the flat spot seems to be there...seemingly.

This is probably one of the modifications Inglese will do on a carb that he knows will be used on the street. An IDA that is. The IDF doesn't need it.

As far as the IDF's being shorter, along with the manifold, I will say this, the IR systems are sensitive to ram tuning length. The longer the better.

Have you ever seen the long ram tubes on the IDA's? What do you think they are there for?
The longer they are, the more torque they add, and it is noticeable.

Like I said, I haven't worked with the IDF's, but the entire ram length to the valve is noticeably shorter then the IDA.

I'd bet you a nickle that adds to loss of drive ability of the IDF's? Again, IR carb systems are VERY, VERY SENSITIVE to induction length.

You may be attempting to reinvent the wheel with the IDF's?

Nothing naturally aspirated (carbs)seem to run with IDA's flat out. Maybe the IDF's come close, I don't know?

That's my explanation Tom. Best I can do. Hope it makes sense to you and helps?
Last edited by panteradoug
i tryed IDA48's on a track-Porsche 928 for the fun... all custom build , all for nothing... jetting became a nightmare Eeker quit the idea , perhaps ever again when i have tooo much time Big Grin

no, besides the looks , i wouldn't try it again , sure not on a sub-"daily" Pantera ! i even wonder , IF you can get it right, what difference you CAN feel in a street driven car....???? perhaps at WOT ... 2% a year ? giving up some torque , using the other 98 % of the year ?
but yeah, i DO love the looks ... Cool
quote:
Originally posted by Kid:
There is a short movie of that 928 on Youtube, correct?

I bought a 40 year old car, partly because of the looks, and don't mind the old thing has some "issues", so why not IDA's Big Grin


I actually feel the same way. I feel the modifications should be period correct and I actually use the Gp4's as a target/role model. Wink

Actually on the tuning, Webers being "off tune" is actually a misnomer or an axie moron. If the are off, the car won't move out of the driveway.

What the issue is, is maximizing them for that day, just like you were racing. What ever the setting turns out to be, is the best the car will run on that day, and you leave it alone.

My setting is 140f/160a, F5 mains. .67f idle on the stock 110 idle air holder. The chokes are 40.5mm, which were custom milled down out of 3/16" thick wall aluminum tubing.

I will tell you that it will also run better on 170f/190a, and F7's seem to run as well as the f5's. The car will pull very, very, very hard on that setting and I actually like the color of the plugs better with it then the 140f combination.

Idle set screws are about 5/8ths of a turn out from the seat.

When the transition flat spot is there it is at 2800 to just under 3000 rpm.

I haven't got the courage to try the third hole yet. The problem is if it screws up the carbs, you have to solder the hole back up.

The IDA's have gotten a little pricey to screw around with them.

Here it is. You can see the third hole clearly in this picture. There are those that swear by it.

Here's a discussion about it from Club
Cobra.
http://www.clubcobra.com/forum...ransition-ports.html

This is the article the picture below is from.

http://www.aircooled.net/rebui...-ida-vw-carburetors/

The new third hole is the top one. The article states that the "newer" IDAs come with the three holes.

Anyone here have maybe the made in Spain 48IDAs of which they can check on?

Some have questioned if the third hole makes the idle heavier.

Apparently no, and because the venturi effect only draws fuel out of one hole at a time as it aligns with the throttle plate. The throttle plate moves in relationship to each hole as you operate the throttle.

It makes a lot of sense to add the third higher hole since it is "higher" in the rpm cycle that the idle circuit stops functioning and the dead spot occurs.

To make it operate at a higher rpm, it needs a higher transition hole. Seems ridiculously simple, but carbs are not rocket science.

This "tune ability" or flexibility is why many say the IDA is the carb to run even on the street.

It isn't just the V8s that see this transition issue. Virtually every engine the IDAs are used on exhibits the transition issue.

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Last edited by panteradoug
I bought a set of Webers long time ago for mine. They were purple which wasn't going to do. I have been tearing them down and rebuilding them which is good. I don't believe they have ever been used but they needed cleaned up. hings like bearings not moving well, dry gaskets, etc.

I drilled the 3rd hole and tapped it for a plug. I have been sandblasting and powder coating the carbs.

The Hall intake for the 400 needed spacers which I was not going to do. I started building my own intake but time got the better of me. I cut the Hall intake in half instead.

I did find the Hall intake put the carbs a little too close together. Linkage had to be slightly bent not to bind and the fuel rail barely went on with a little pushing.

I'll be laser cutting a plate to go in between for linkage.

What fuel pump do you guys prefer? Do you have a minimum size fuel line?

I am going to put in an O2 but the best spot or me is right against the head. I need to see if the O2 can be that close; I am not sure it can.













I like it. Nice solution. My Doug Nash intake was just like that with a plate underneath.

I don't find issue with the linkage on the Pantera. I did run that set up on my 68 Shelby when I had the Boss351 in it and I did have linkage issues there.

The simplest solution on it was to the linkage was to use Inglese's adapter kit to have the carbs parallel rather then opposed. The throttle input also had to be put on the drivers side of the manifold and the pedestal was useless.

theoretically the Hall manifold is correct with carb orientation because of line of sight to the valve. Does it really matter? Probably not much.

For the Pantera, the pedestal works perfectly for me.

I had binding initially with it on the Pantera but moved the left to right bank connection to the rear. That made a very simple linkage connection at all points.

So what's wrong with purple? Big Grin

I use a Holley electric fuel pump and find -6 hose are fine. 3 psi max. You do not need high pressure with these things. That is Holley think.

I don't use those fuel rails. Those are the ones made by ISP in Colorado. I use 3/8 ss tubing with tubing nuts and the Earls Weber T fittings. I like the sorta retro/techo look and they make great handles for hauling the manifold around.

How much off center are the fuel holes on the rails? 30 thousands? Gotta leave the carbs loose, align the rails, then tighten the carbs I would think...not like you wouldn't already know that?

Check out Jay Cee web page for the Weber parts you need.

http://www.jayceevw.com

The bearings are sealed. There should be no way the throttles should bind. White lithium grease here and there is all that you need.

The real question to me at the moment with Webers is the camshaft.

You need to remember that these things were run with race duration cams and overlap that blew the fuel out like a geiser.

I can tell you that my heads need lift to work. The "Weber" cam with 586 lift and hydraulic lifters isn't going to cut it for my heads. Try 6 something.

That is the part that is unresolved for me.

I still feel that using the Weber cams gives away 100hp needlessly. This is the part of the race vs. street that I may never be able to resolve?
I am afraid I did not consider the webers when I built the engine. I figure at this point it is what it is. The engine was built as a low rpm torquer engine. My goal was very good tq limiting rpm to 5500rm. By doing so I figured I can get by with much less valve spring problems. We dynoed it with a Deamon on a CHI intake right at 500hp with 534lbs tq. The engine had 434lbs of tq at 2000rpm and the dyno could not start any lower with he tq. I can also tell you the exhaust primaries on the dyno were pretty small.



Cam is crane 529721
276/284 seat to seat
214/222 .050
.562/.586 lift
111 center

If I ever get caught up I have another 400 I want to go hog wild on. We have a draq strip a couple miles from my house. I have an old nascar I want to use as a rolling dyno and would like to play use that to set up another motor. We'll see if it happens. Life is pretty damn busy right now.
How close do you think I can mount the O2 to the head? I have completely different type of headers with all 4 primaries going to the back. The primaries land in a common muffler far down the line.

I am afraid if I put it in the muffler section it will be too far away and not heat up adequately. Since they need to be mounted at least partially upward, this limits my location to the top of the runners here. My concern is that the O2 sensor does not get too hot:








In the headers I made for the MG I run them about a foot off the head. You can see the port on the right side of the right header here:


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