Sacc Wilwood 6 piston with stock disc conversion

added protective fire sleeves around the parking brake cable on both sides to protect from chafing and from the heat from the exhaust headers.
Secured the parking brake cable to the A-arm with stainless steel zip ties (protected the arm first with electric tape then a rubber grommet, then the zip ties )

clearance to the half shaft is well over 1/2” and the cable is absolutely secure!

for securing the hydraulic line I drilled and taped a M5 hole in the webbing of the A-arm and used a clamp that allows movement….

Nice job Roland.  Thanks for sharing your experience with your vendor "Control Cables, Inc.".  Need to spread the word regarding great vendors.  Larry

Nicely done.  That reminds me that I need to go back and clean my cable management up after doing a similar brake upgrade.

finally, I got the heat shields for the front brake back from Powder coating!

original pretty rusted but now all good again!

Now I’m moving again

new seals

Here a look at the different size pistons front caliper

not sure if I mentioned before but I always chase the threads ( lubed and turn - turn and back off - and again..) and clean the threads afterwards with brake cleaner so the blue Loctite has a chance!

Front calibers are mounted (108 foot pounds of torque in the confined area is scary. Anything slips your faces is toast)

brake lines installed, master is filled

Roland,  Looking Good, At this rate you will have it on the road in no time.  Larry

And I got brake pressure and no leak!

the pedal is getting hard is about 1 3/4 maybe 2 inches rock solid..

i’m sure I got some air trapped somewhere… Being one man show so…

I’ll give it another go tomorrow.

but all in all , I’m very very happy not bad at all!

Oh… did I mention that the parking brake actually is holding the car! I can torque the wheels with the wheel in the air, and it does not move at all!

@Lardog posted:

Roland,  Looking Good, At this rate you will have it on the road in no time.  Larry

You are right… If I wouldn’t do aaaaaall the other things… 🤪

just doing every day a little bit - and don’t get complacent..

Well, it’s done… I hope they brake as good as they look… new system from foot to road…

new Pantera brake discs are not off the table but it takes time… working on it!

thanks to everyone!! 🙏

now I’m moving on to the external fuel filler…. https://pantera.infopop.cc/top...rnal-fuel-filler-mod

One last thing… does anyone have an intact screw on cap for the original clutch or brake master reservoir.. they seem to be the same…. With the rubber inside..

I need one… DM me… PayPal…

hope this thread was helpful… ✌️

I’m curious to hear how the six piston calipers feel on stock diameter rotors, in normal driving.  Please let us know!

I sure will give a total test report on the brakes after she is technically done… hoping  in April…

thinking about it… I will actually let an experienced Pantera owner/driver from this forum run my car and report.. I don’t have any seat-time in the car… what do I know!!

Lemans850, those screw-on plastic master cylinder caps always crack from tension at the first thread unless you leave them loose... and then they leak. The caps can sometimes be found in wrecking yards on old Volvos, FIATS, some Brit cars but they're always suspect after all this time.

If you want to fix the cracking forever, go to <pegasusautoracing.com> in WI)  and get their ALUMINUM cap (pn 3549). Fits perfectly and could be painted black if the as-cast look is a problem. I put mine on 30 yrs ago & so far zero problems.

@bosswrench posted:

Lemans850, those screw-on plastic master cylinder caps always crack from tension at the first thread unless you leave them loose... and then they leak. The caps can sometimes be found in wrecking yards on old Volvos, FIATS, some Brit cars but they're always suspect after all this time.

If you want to fix the cracking forever, go to <pegasusautoracing.com> in WI)  and get their ALUMINUM cap (pn 3549). Fits perfectly and could be painted black if the as-cast look is a problem. I put mine on 30 yrs ago & so far zero problems.

Thank you bosswrench! Super information!

you would not believe how much this flimsiness was bugging me!

I just ordered 2 of them!

👍👍🙏

That was an excellent lead! New lids for the reservoir!

I don’t know if it was posted anywhere already… the nut for the front wheel spindles are from Fiat 500 – Fiat 850  Still available! The nut with the groove in the corners of the hexagon is left-hand side the one without right hand side!

I am still working on getting new original size Detomaso Pantera brake discs for front and rear made!

does anyone know the original thickness of the brake discs? The minimum brake disc thickness is cast into the original ones, but I have no reference anywhere what the original thickness was! Front minimum 19 mm rear minimum 17.5 mm.

Most U.S literature refers to '0.875' (std) and 1.25" (Gr-5 & racing) thickness rotors even though the real dimensions are likely metric. I don't think its very critical- enough to finger-fit a brake pad in place.

@LeMans850i posted:

I am still working on getting new original size Detomaso Pantera break discs for front and rear made!

does anyone know the original thickness of the brake discs? The minimum break disc thickness is cast into the original ones, but I have no reference anywhere what the original thickness was! Front minimum 19 mm rear minimum 17.5 mm.

It's likely your Wilwood calipers were designed to be used on a specific rotor width, that's different than the OEM rotors. In fact, probably wider. Look at the part numbers on the boxes and look it up on the Wilwood web site. That info will give you a few more options when looking for rotors. SACC might even have two piece rotors in close-to-OEM dimensions. 

That would translate to 22 mm for the front disc… 19mm being minimum then I would go for 20 mm in the back..