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Rewiring the Entire Car - Painless Wiring Kit

panteradudepanteradudeMember
I thought this might be of some interest to those looking to update the wiring of their Pantera. I've decided to take on the task of rewiring the ENTIRE car with modern electronics. This includes the fuse block, all wiring, switches, and connections. The actual components for the ignition, fuel and cooling system have been updated in the past, and I'm leaving the stock window and headlight actuators in place. Everything else will be replaced and modernized.

I will be using a "ford muscle car" Painless Wiring kit to do this. The harness is designed for a generic muscle car layout, so it's taken a little "rearranging" to route the wires for a mid-engine arrangement.

So far I've done the following:
-Removed all existing wiring, connectors, switches and gauges
-Installed the new fuse block and routed the harness to the various locations for installation (engine bay, dash section, etc.)
-Wired the starter circuit, ignition system and charging system

I need to complete the following:
-All gauges (including sending units) and switches
-Interior and exterior lights
-Fuel pump circuit (with new relay)
-Cooling system (fans, temp sensors, relays, etc.)

All connections are/will be soldered and all wiring insulated. Part of this project includes rebuilding the dashboard with a custom layout, so I'll be using a switch panel for most functions rather than the original switches, including the ignition switch.

This is a large undertaking but it will pay off in the end with a brand new, reliable electrical system, and peace of mind that I won't have to worry about components and wiring failing.

I'm sure I'll have questions along the way, but I figured I'd post this thread if anyone was thinking about doing something like this to their car and had questions about the process as I go through it.

Aaron
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panteradudepanteradudeMember
I was actually just on your website looking at your build pictures - something to aspire to!

My interior currently looks about as bad as that first picture. Here's my interior on day one, after pulling the dash and before pulling the old wiring out:



I'll see if I can snap an updated picture this weekend.

Here's a pic of a custom dash that I began to put together. If I can swing it at some point I'd like to replace it with the carbon fiber dash that Wilkinson sells. I seem to remember the entire dash and center console being about $3000 but I think the dash alone was fairly inexpensive.

Last edited by panteradude
ea3528ea3528Member
Good timing, P Dude.

I am undertaking a similar project - albeit on a much lesser scale wiring-wise. As my dash, console, door panels and firewall/bulkhead are out for leather work, I am going to test all wiring connections and grounds. I will be adding the Pantera Electronics ATO Fuse Panel Mod for sure. Will you?

Here's a look at the mess I created once the dash and console were pulled. It's now in a much more organized state as I prepare to start work. Honestly, guys! Roll Eyes

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ea3528ea3528Member
I am still in the re-design planning stage for my new console. Here's a pic of what the new guage cluster will look like as I plan to move the switches to the new armrest I'm having fabricated. The "right side" of the console is still TBD as far as the re-design goes ... but I can tell you that I will be moving the dated vent levers under the console and out of sight (as they are rarely used).

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panteradudepanteradudeMember
I'll probably use the fuse block contained in the Painless kit, mainly because it's already pre-wired to the harness. One day if I'm feeling adventurous I'll take on the task of replacing it with the Pantera Electronics block because it does fit better.

Nice job on the console mock-up. What material did you use for that template?

I believe I will be removing the entire climate control system on mine, as this will primarily be a track car and I could use the weight savings. I'll have to figure out how to drain and remove that system without getting coolant all over the interior.
v8capriv8capriMember
Hi,
I too am in the process of doing wiring, switches and complete interior change and upgrade.
I don't have any pics, but when it is done I will get some pics for you.
I reckon i have pulled out about 10 kg of excess wiring !
oh the windows and headlights fly up and down now !
Good luck ! and stay focussed it will all be worth it.
panteradougpanteradougMember
This isn't intended to be a criticism of you or your project or me showboating and ego satisfaction, but the harness isn't really the problem at all.

If you use the Pantera Electronics components that's all you will really ever need to do.

Well pretty close anyway.

I went a little further. I built in Taurus power seat platforms, changed the window motors to Taurus/Windstar units and switched the stock points ignition to Motorcraft pointless distributor.

This combination allows one to keep the original flavor of the car without changing it into a restomod.

I also built in a Honda adjustable height steering column mechanism into the stock Pantera column...oh yea, that's not electrical? OK, maybe just a little showboating on my part? Sorry. It must be a Pantera thing or something? Big Grin
panteradougpanteradougMember
It is just the adjustable mechanism from a Honda Civic.
There is quite a bit of surgurey involved to get it to the point where you can weld it to the Pantera column.

It allows for basically the lowering of the column from stock height.

In my case the unit moves enough to actually lower the wheel into your lap.

The Honda mechanism is being a little difficult in that it is a friction device rather then a gear/ratchet design.

What I am saying is that it tends to slip down on you a little. I will be playing with it again over the winter and will see if I can come up with a solution to the issue or just scrap it all together and go back to stock.

What I like about this setup is that it looks like it is stock and the car came that way.

It also gives me the ability to adjust myself into the small cabin.

I also have lowered floor pans, 20 position adjustable power seats, and the pedals were moved forward over and inch.

That creates allot of room for me to squiggle around.

When I get back in the car I'll see if I can take some pictures for everyone. Sounds like more then just a few people are interested in this modification?
panteradudepanteradudeMember
quote:
Originally posted by PanteraDoug:
This isn't intended to be a criticism of you or your project or me showboating and ego satisfaction, but the harness isn't really the problem at all.

If you use the Pantera Electronics components that's all you will really ever need to do.


No offense taken Smiler

Using all Pantera Electronics components would have cost substantially more than the Painless kit (double, if not more) and would have only replaced components. The premise of my project is to replace all original wiring as well. The Painless harness makes it easier to do this than wiring my own harness.

The products sold by Pantera Electronics are nice, don't get me wrong, but it's not the only way to wire a ford electrical system.
panteradudepanteradudeMember
quote:
Originally posted by PanteraDoug:
A Ford wiring system...perhaps... but this isn't a Ford. It is a Detomaso.

Does Painless make a harness specifically for the Pantera? Adapting one from another car can't be fun?


There are no Pantera-specific wiring kits that I know of. This is a race car so I'm not attempting to have a model-accurate concours show car. It needs to run reliably, that is the goal. I'm also ASE Master certified with a decade of muscle car builds and antique restorations under my belt, so this is not the case of a backyard mechanic trying this for the first time.

From Pantera Electronics I can buy the $78 ignition bypass, the $305 fuse box, the $225 headlight controller, the $260 radiator fan controller, the $257 console switch controller, and then have to buy all new wiring and start rewiring the car....or I can use a Painless kit and achieve the exact same running car for under $500, albeit without fancy flashing lights in my fuse box that nobody will ever see.

They're nice products, and if I was only replacing individual components I might consider it - but I can rewire the entire car, including components, in half of what the cost for their parts are, and I can guarantee that the end result will be the same - a reliable car that runs.
C comp2Member
quote:
Originally posted by PanteraDude:
There are no Pantera-specific wiring kits that I know of.


Aaron, Plans for my car is to use a front and rear fuse block and relay panel. One in the trunk and one in the back. No fuses under the dash. The dash in fact will be removable with a plug or two making under dash wiring simple. I am going to get the avionics company to label some aircraft wiring. This is the block I intend to use for the front. I have a slightly smaller one in the rear:

http://haywireinc.com/catalog/images/fusepanel.jpg
ea3528ea3528Member
quote:
Originally posted by PanteraDude:
Not trying to be a jerk, and I do appreciate the input - just wanted to clear up why I'm going about the project the way I am.


Aaron, I'd love to see pix of the new harness you are going to use. In fact, a nice slideshow featuring plenty of "before," "during" and "after" shots would be awesome!
C comp2Member
quote:
Originally posted by EA #3528:


Comp, where will you locate your rear block? Not many weather-proof options back there ... how will the rear block withstand the elements?

Just curious ...


I have not decided yet. It will depend on other things. The plan is to build an aluminum cover for both front and rear fuse panel. The aluminum cover is not just for the elements but because the terminals are exposed. Keeping it out of the elements shouldn't be hard but I also doubt this car will see much rain.

I wanted a terminal box using eyelets since it is the most flexible for me. Some have set screw termination but I did not like that. This car has a lot of electrical from electric power steering, trans cooler fans, oil cooler fans, etc. I am starting virtually ground up so a Pantera system is irrelevant to me.
panteradougpanteradougMember
The pedals get moved forward by placing a spacer between the aluminum casting that holds the pedal assembly and the sheet steel bulkhead.

Even if you don't need the extra leg space it does change the relationship of the steering wheel vs. the pedals to something more like we are accustomed to in other cars.

I'm 6'2 with long legs and it helps me. It lets me straighten my legs and puts less strain on my right knee then before. I found that I had to twist from brake to accelerator and that was stressing out my knee.

I can drive in a stretched out position which for me is much more comfortable.
The power seat platform now lets me raise the height of the seating position, tilt it forward or backwards as well as adjust the seat EASILY front to back and has a power lumbar support.

I also discovered in this process that the accelerator pedal in the car is twisted in relationship to the new black anodized and grooved one from Hall Pantera.

Changing the pedal alone has helped.

If anything the cabin is becoming too big for me. Something that I never thought would happen.

I also took the bubble out of the bulkhead and made flat panels for it. It's a little strange looking but that change now allows for the passenger to push the seat all the way back to the bulkhead and not hit their left elbow.

Now I can pick up those really tall long leg dancers from the casino and give them a ride, letting them stretch out their legs. That's actually very distracting though.

Do guys always get hornier as the get older? Big Grin
M mikeallen (Guest)
Has anyone looked up the ISIS wiring harness??. It has a brain and two stand alones that are just what you guys are talking about. The kit is also tunable and is all new age marine setup. Perfect for in the engine compartment and trunk
Check them out http://www.isispower.com/.
Also check out the two guys garage episode, its where they wire up a gtr? I think its episode 803 at two guys garage season 8. The show was better in real than the preview on computer.
I am going this way with ISIS I think, some guys in town think this is the best for a complete new age wiring system. One of the guys is close to getting two cars done and has alot of people watching to see how they come out
panteradudepanteradudeMember
quote:
Originally posted by mikeallen:
Has anyone looked up the ISIS wiring harness??. It has a brain and two stand alones that are just what you guys are talking about. The kit is also tunable and is all new age marine setup. Perfect for in the engine compartment and trunk
Check them out http://www.isispower.com/.
Also check out the two guys garage episode, its where they wire up a gtr? I think its episode 803 at two guys garage season 8. The show was better in real than the preview on computer.
I am going this way with ISIS I think, some guys in town think this is the best for a complete new age wiring system. One of the guys is close to getting two cars done and has alot of people watching to see how they come out


That's pretty damn impressive, I just watched the video on their site. It reminded me of the old days in college when we used to strap modules together and build robots - the possibilities look endless.
C comp2Member
I took a good long look at the ISISPOWER at a car show. When my car is painted that will be one of the first things I am addressing. I have no plan to use the traditional electrical system. My plan is for a fuse box in the front trunk with relays, and a smaller fuse box in the rear firewall with relays. Broken between front items and rear items (in general). No fuse panel under the dash what so ever and a dash which comes out easily with plugs.

In looking at the ISISPOWER it was a neat outfit but I kept asking why? It added a lot of complexity and a whole new set of things to fail (even if it shows you the failure) for what? Because I can't trouble shoot a bad ground or bulb? Built in mosfets are nice but I can do that too.

Not that it isn't neat but very expensive and more complicated then it needs to be for me. If I am building an electrical system from scratch I should be able to figure out a bad ground or bad bulb.



panteradudepanteradudeMember
I never said those Pantera Electronics products weren't great, but they're not necessary for me. As I said before - for my purpose I can't justify spending the money on fancy components when I can end up with the same perfectly functional car, with new components AND wiring, for a fraction of the price. Pantera Electronics stuff are nice products, but they're not the only solution. The wiring system on the Pantera isn't overly complex to begin with - it's a basic 70's muscle car design, so rewiring it is not a massive undertaking.

One reason of many to go with the ISIS system is weight savings. 40 pounds of savings on a race car is huge. This system also eliminates a bulky fuse box and most relays, making the wiring system in general simpler and less prone to failure, theoretically. I haven't talked to anyone who is actually running one of these systems yet though, so I really don't know anything about them other than what I saw on the videos.
Last edited by panteradude
C comp2Member
I don't believe 40lbs. The entire wire harness I pulled from the Pantera is not near 40lbs. I have it here in a box. Single wire and mosfet here and there can help but you can do that without a computer system so to speak.

I am not sure what their control boxes actually weigh but the fuse panel alone no wires with 2 relays, turn signal flasher and flashers is 26oz.
C comp2Member
quote:

I am not sure what their control boxes actually weigh but the fuse panel alone no wires with 2 relays, turn signal flasher and flashers is 26oz.


I mean the fuse panel I am putting in mine.

Most after market panels are good whether you go with an OEM Pantera design or an after market harness. It's not rocket science and many many companies make good panels which work well for hot rods and custom cars. After a while it becomes the big block/small block argument.
panteradudepanteradudeMember
quote:
Originally posted by comp2:
I don't believe 40lbs. The entire wire harness I pulled from the Pantera is not near 40lbs. I have it here in a box. Single wire and mosfet here and there can help but you can do that without a computer system so to speak.

I am not sure what their control boxes actually weigh but the fuse panel alone no wires with 2 relays, turn signal flasher and flashers is 26oz.


Someone on the Factory Five board said 40 pounds, I was just guessing based on that. It's probably too expensive for me, but down the road it might be a cool conversion to do even if the weight savings is not substantial.
C comp2Member
I hate guessing at things so I just weighed mine. Everything in a box up to every component. All wires and harnesses including one honk'n battery cable and starter cable was 26lbs.

If you want to save some weight get rid of the air conditioner. I pulled the compressor, condenser, evaporator, and put them on a scale and they were about 100lbs. I don't use A/C. Mine is gone.



accobraaccobraMember
" The stock Pantera harness doesn't need help."

Now I'm not a metalurgist but from what I;m told is the pantera wire is pure copper and increases greatly the corrosion at the connections which causes problems. I;m told that standard autombile wire has a certain amount of alloys in it to prevent this. So technically the pantera system does have other issues.

Has anyone used the RON FRANCIS wiring harnesses ..I have before and tey also work very well.

Ron
demopuardemopuarMember
Hi Ron,

I am not an electrician, but I was told by one that pure copper is the best conductor in the electricity world -- the corrosion that results is not a problem as it still conducts with no problems. That is why you want copper instead of aluminum secondary wires running from your meter to the fuse box in a house. I do not know about car wiring, but the same electrician told me that the only difference in house wiring is the insulation -- that is what makes one wire better than another in the same gauge is the quality of the insulation on it.

I have also heard that the wiring harness is not the main culprit in the Pantera, but the fuse panel and everything that has a relay on it. Relays may have been state of the art in the 1950's, but the contact relays introduce heat into the electrical circuits, and heat in circuits will always cause failures. The stuff that Pantera Electronics offers is not cheap, but it is state of the art pieces that offer reliability in a modern package that hooks right up with no issues to a Pantera, as his pieces were made for the stock wiring harnesses. And if anyone that buys a car that does not like the Haas upgrade, they can always go back to the original setup as it is just a matter of taking terminals apart and installing the other components -- it is absolutely reversible.

Mark
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