Rewiring the Entire Car - Painless Wiring Kit

LEt me know when I can drop my car off to you ! LOL

Will do! I'd post pictures but it just looks like an otherwise nice-looking Pantera with wiring dangling all over the place

Post 'em anyhow. We've all been there at some point. Curious to see it unfold.

Here's my before / after experience.

I was actually just on your website looking at your build pictures - something to aspire to!

My interior currently looks about as bad as that first picture. Here's my interior on day one, after pulling the dash and before pulling the old wiring out:



I'll see if I can snap an updated picture this weekend.

Here's a pic of a custom dash that I began to put together. If I can swing it at some point I'd like to replace it with the carbon fiber dash that Wilkinson sells. I seem to remember the entire dash and center console being about $3000 but I think the dash alone was fairly inexpensive.

Good timing, P Dude.

I am undertaking a similar project - albeit on a much lesser scale wiring-wise. As my dash, console, door panels and firewall/bulkhead are out for leather work, I am going to test all wiring connections and grounds. I will be adding the Pantera Electronics ATO Fuse Panel Mod for sure. Will you?

Here's a look at the mess I created once the dash and console were pulled. It's now in a much more organized state as I prepare to start work. Honestly, guys!

I am still in the re-design planning stage for my new console. Here's a pic of what the new guage cluster will look like as I plan to move the switches to the new armrest I'm having fabricated. The "right side" of the console is still TBD as far as the re-design goes ... but I can tell you that I will be moving the dated vent levers under the console and out of sight (as they are rarely used).

I'll probably use the fuse block contained in the Painless kit, mainly because it's already pre-wired to the harness. One day if I'm feeling adventurous I'll take on the task of replacing it with the Pantera Electronics block because it does fit better.

Nice job on the console mock-up. What material did you use for that template?

I believe I will be removing the entire climate control system on mine, as this will primarily be a track car and I could use the weight savings. I'll have to figure out how to drain and remove that system without getting coolant all over the interior.

Hi,
I too am in the process of doing wiring, switches and complete interior change and upgrade.
I don't have any pics, but when it is done I will get some pics for you.
I reckon i have pulled out about 10 kg of excess wiring !
oh the windows and headlights fly up and down now !
Good luck ! and stay focussed it will all be worth it.

I did my car w/the "American Auto Wire" kit. It went pretty good...

This isn't intended to be a criticism of you or your project or me showboating and ego satisfaction, but the harness isn't really the problem at all.

If you use the Pantera Electronics components that's all you will really ever need to do.

Well pretty close anyway.

I went a little further. I built in Taurus power seat platforms, changed the window motors to Taurus/Windstar units and switched the stock points ignition to Motorcraft pointless distributor.

This combination allows one to keep the original flavor of the car without changing it into a restomod.

I also built in a Honda adjustable height steering column mechanism into the stock Pantera column...oh yea, that's not electrical? OK, maybe just a little showboating on my part? Sorry. It must be a Pantera thing or something?

PanteraDoug, tell us more about your steering column modification.

It is just the adjustable mechanism from a Honda Civic.
There is quite a bit of surgurey involved to get it to the point where you can weld it to the Pantera column.

It allows for basically the lowering of the column from stock height.

In my case the unit moves enough to actually lower the wheel into your lap.

The Honda mechanism is being a little difficult in that it is a friction device rather then a gear/ratchet design.

What I am saying is that it tends to slip down on you a little. I will be playing with it again over the winter and will see if I can come up with a solution to the issue or just scrap it all together and go back to stock.

What I like about this setup is that it looks like it is stock and the car came that way.

It also gives me the ability to adjust myself into the small cabin.

I also have lowered floor pans, 20 position adjustable power seats, and the pedals were moved forward over and inch.

That creates allot of room for me to squiggle around.

When I get back in the car I'll see if I can take some pictures for everyone. Sounds like more then just a few people are interested in this modification?

quote:

Originally posted by PanteraDoug:
This isn't intended to be a criticism of you or your project or me showboating and ego satisfaction, but the harness isn't really the problem at all.

If you use the Pantera Electronics components that's all you will really ever need to do.

No offense taken

Using all Pantera Electronics components would have cost substantially more than the Painless kit (double, if not more) and would have only replaced components. The premise of my project is to replace all original wiring as well. The Painless harness makes it easier to do this than wiring my own harness.

The products sold by Pantera Electronics are nice, don't get me wrong, but it's not the only way to wire a ford electrical system.

A Ford wiring system...perhaps... but this isn't a Ford. It is a Detomaso.

Does Painless make a harness specifically for the Pantera? Adapting one from another car can't be fun?

quote:

Originally posted by PanteraDoug:
A Ford wiring system...perhaps... but this isn't a Ford. It is a Detomaso.

Does Painless make a harness specifically for the Pantera? Adapting one from another car can't be fun?

There are no Pantera-specific wiring kits that I know of. This is a race car so I'm not attempting to have a model-accurate concours show car. It needs to run reliably, that is the goal. I'm also ASE Master certified with a decade of muscle car builds and antique restorations under my belt, so this is not the case of a backyard mechanic trying this for the first time.

From Pantera Electronics I can buy the $78 ignition bypass, the $305 fuse box, the $225 headlight controller, the $260 radiator fan controller, the $257 console switch controller, and then have to buy all new wiring and start rewiring the car....or I can use a Painless kit and achieve the exact same running car for under $500, albeit without fancy flashing lights in my fuse box that nobody will ever see.

They're nice products, and if I was only replacing individual components I might consider it - but I can rewire the entire car, including components, in half of what the cost for their parts are, and I can guarantee that the end result will be the same - a reliable car that runs.

I see your point.

Not trying to be a jerk, and I do appreciate the input - just wanted to clear up why I'm going about the project the way I am.

quote:

Originally posted by PanteraDude:
There are no Pantera-specific wiring kits that I know of.

Aaron, Plans for my car is to use a front and rear fuse block and relay panel. One in the trunk and one in the back. No fuses under the dash. The dash in fact will be removable with a plug or two making under dash wiring simple. I am going to get the avionics company to label some aircraft wiring. This is the block I intend to use for the front. I have a slightly smaller one in the rear:

http://haywireinc.com/catalog/images/fusepanel.jpg

quote:

Originally posted by comp2:
Plans for my car is to use a front and rear fuse block and relay panel. One in the trunk and one in the back.

Comp, where will you locate your rear block? Not many weather-proof options back there ... how will the rear block withstand the elements?

Just curious ...

quote:

Originally posted by PanteraDude:
Not trying to be a jerk, and I do appreciate the input - just wanted to clear up why I'm going about the project the way I am.

Aaron, I'd love to see pix of the new harness you are going to use. In fact, a nice slideshow featuring plenty of "before," "during" and "after" shots would be awesome!

quote:

Originally posted by PanteraDude:
Nice job on the console mock-up. What material did you use for that template?

I used foam-core. Staples and other office supply stores carry it. I will post more pix when I begin to chronicle my project in more detail ...

quote:

I also have lowered floor pans, 20 position adjustable power seats, and the pedals were moved forward over and inch.

How did you move the pedals forward??
Will (short legs)

quote:

Originally posted by EA #3528:


Comp, where will you locate your rear block? Not many weather-proof options back there ... how will the rear block withstand the elements?

Just curious ...

I have not decided yet. It will depend on other things. The plan is to build an aluminum cover for both front and rear fuse panel. The aluminum cover is not just for the elements but because the terminals are exposed. Keeping it out of the elements shouldn't be hard but I also doubt this car will see much rain.

I wanted a terminal box using eyelets since it is the most flexible for me. Some have set screw termination but I did not like that. This car has a lot of electrical from electric power steering, trans cooler fans, oil cooler fans, etc. I am starting virtually ground up so a Pantera system is irrelevant to me.

The pedals get moved forward by placing a spacer between the aluminum casting that holds the pedal assembly and the sheet steel bulkhead.

Even if you don't need the extra leg space it does change the relationship of the steering wheel vs. the pedals to something more like we are accustomed to in other cars.

I'm 6'2 with long legs and it helps me. It lets me straighten my legs and puts less strain on my right knee then before. I found that I had to twist from brake to accelerator and that was stressing out my knee.

I can drive in a stretched out position which for me is much more comfortable.
The power seat platform now lets me raise the height of the seating position, tilt it forward or backwards as well as adjust the seat EASILY front to back and has a power lumbar support.

I also discovered in this process that the accelerator pedal in the car is twisted in relationship to the new black anodized and grooved one from Hall Pantera.

Changing the pedal alone has helped.

If anything the cabin is becoming too big for me. Something that I never thought would happen.

I also took the bubble out of the bulkhead and made flat panels for it. It's a little strange looking but that change now allows for the passenger to push the seat all the way back to the bulkhead and not hit their left elbow.

Now I can pick up those really tall long leg dancers from the casino and give them a ride, letting them stretch out their legs. That's actually very distracting though.

Do guys always get hornier as the get older?

Has anyone looked up the ISIS wiring harness??. It has a brain and two stand alones that are just what you guys are talking about. The kit is also tunable and is all new age marine setup. Perfect for in the engine compartment and trunk
Check them out http://www.isispower.com/.
Also check out the two guys garage episode, its where they wire up a gtr? I think its episode 803 at two guys garage season 8. The show was better in real than the preview on computer.
I am going this way with ISIS I think, some guys in town think this is the best for a complete new age wiring system. One of the guys is close to getting two cars done and has alot of people watching to see how they come out

quote:

Originally posted by mikeallen:
Has anyone looked up the ISIS wiring harness??. It has a brain and two stand alones that are just what you guys are talking about. The kit is also tunable and is all new age marine setup. Perfect for in the engine compartment and trunk
Check them out http://www.isispower.com/.
Also check out the two guys garage episode, its where they wire up a gtr? I think its episode 803 at two guys garage season 8. The show was better in real than the preview on computer.
I am going this way with ISIS I think, some guys in town think this is the best for a complete new age wiring system. One of the guys is close to getting two cars done and has alot of people watching to see how they come out

That's pretty damn impressive, I just watched the video on their site. It reminded me of the old days in college when we used to strap modules together and build robots - the possibilities look endless.

Here's the Youtube channel with the Two Guys Garage vids:

http://www.youtube.com/user/infinityboxllc

I am somewhat speechless. With technology like this available, my question is: aside from the dollars required, why wouldn't everyone implement this mod?

Regardless, I will definitely be paying attention to this thread as Mike and Aaron complete their work. Guys, please post as many pix as possible!

I took a good long look at the ISISPOWER at a car show. When my car is painted that will be one of the first things I am addressing. I have no plan to use the traditional electrical system. My plan is for a fuse box in the front trunk with relays, and a smaller fuse box in the rear firewall with relays. Broken between front items and rear items (in general). No fuse panel under the dash what so ever and a dash which comes out easily with plugs.

In looking at the ISISPOWER it was a neat outfit but I kept asking why? It added a lot of complexity and a whole new set of things to fail (even if it shows you the failure) for what? Because I can't trouble shoot a bad ground or bulb? Built in mosfets are nice but I can do that too.

Not that it isn't neat but very expensive and more complicated then it needs to be for me. If I am building an electrical system from scratch I should be able to figure out a bad ground or bad bulb.

The stock Pantera harness doesn't need help. The components do.
Try someone who knows Panteras and builds components specifically for them.

http://www.pantera-electronics.com/index.html

This guy is a Pantera owner, a member here and an aerospace engineer, literally.

Are these parts cheap? No, but in the end you do get exactly what you pay for.

I never said those Pantera Electronics products weren't great, but they're not necessary for me. As I said before - for my purpose I can't justify spending the money on fancy components when I can end up with the same perfectly functional car, with new components AND wiring, for a fraction of the price. Pantera Electronics stuff are nice products, but they're not the only solution. The wiring system on the Pantera isn't overly complex to begin with - it's a basic 70's muscle car design, so rewiring it is not a massive undertaking.

One reason of many to go with the ISIS system is weight savings. 40 pounds of savings on a race car is huge. This system also eliminates a bulky fuse box and most relays, making the wiring system in general simpler and less prone to failure, theoretically. I haven't talked to anyone who is actually running one of these systems yet though, so I really don't know anything about them other than what I saw on the videos.

I don't believe 40lbs. The entire wire harness I pulled from the Pantera is not near 40lbs. I have it here in a box. Single wire and mosfet here and there can help but you can do that without a computer system so to speak.

I am not sure what their control boxes actually weigh but the fuse panel alone no wires with 2 relays, turn signal flasher and flashers is 26oz.

quote:

I am not sure what their control boxes actually weigh but the fuse panel alone no wires with 2 relays, turn signal flasher and flashers is 26oz.

I mean the fuse panel I am putting in mine.

Most after market panels are good whether you go with an OEM Pantera design or an after market harness. It's not rocket science and many many companies make good panels which work well for hot rods and custom cars. After a while it becomes the big block/small block argument.

quote:

Originally posted by comp2:
I don't believe 40lbs. The entire wire harness I pulled from the Pantera is not near 40lbs. I have it here in a box. Single wire and mosfet here and there can help but you can do that without a computer system so to speak.

I am not sure what their control boxes actually weigh but the fuse panel alone no wires with 2 relays, turn signal flasher and flashers is 26oz.

Someone on the Factory Five board said 40 pounds, I was just guessing based on that. It's probably too expensive for me, but down the road it might be a cool conversion to do even if the weight savings is not substantial.

I hate guessing at things so I just weighed mine. Everything in a box up to every component. All wires and harnesses including one honk'n battery cable and starter cable was 26lbs.

If you want to save some weight get rid of the air conditioner. I pulled the compressor, condenser, evaporator, and put them on a scale and they were about 100lbs. I don't use A/C. Mine is gone.

That was my next step actually, I need to remove the blower motor and the a/c unit, and bypass the heater core.

Don't forget the A/C lines. They are more heavy then you might think. I got a small light weight heater core form Vintage Air. I don't need A/C but I can't do without heat.

" The stock Pantera harness doesn't need help."

Now I'm not a metalurgist but from what I;m told is the pantera wire is pure copper and increases greatly the corrosion at the connections which causes problems. I;m told that standard autombile wire has a certain amount of alloys in it to prevent this. So technically the pantera system does have other issues.

Has anyone used the RON FRANCIS wiring harnesses ..I have before and tey also work very well.

Ron

Hi Ron,

I am not an electrician, but I was told by one that pure copper is the best conductor in the electricity world -- the corrosion that results is not a problem as it still conducts with no problems. That is why you want copper instead of aluminum secondary wires running from your meter to the fuse box in a house. I do not know about car wiring, but the same electrician told me that the only difference in house wiring is the insulation -- that is what makes one wire better than another in the same gauge is the quality of the insulation on it.

I have also heard that the wiring harness is not the main culprit in the Pantera, but the fuse panel and everything that has a relay on it. Relays may have been state of the art in the 1950's, but the contact relays introduce heat into the electrical circuits, and heat in circuits will always cause failures. The stuff that Pantera Electronics offers is not cheap, but it is state of the art pieces that offer reliability in a modern package that hooks right up with no issues to a Pantera, as his pieces were made for the stock wiring harnesses. And if anyone that buys a car that does not like the Haas upgrade, they can always go back to the original setup as it is just a matter of taking terminals apart and installing the other components -- it is absolutely reversible.

Mark

I am not the expert on everything and I do not think that I am. I have worked myself up from dumbass to smartass. I am trying for wiseass.

I think Ron is refering to galvanic action on the copper wiring and aluminum connections.

I personally haven't seen it on the harness in this car but I think that maybe some of the corrosion issues, if that's the right term. on the switches and terminals like in the fusebox might be from that chemical interaction.

I think if you look at the harness you really won't find specific references to FoMoCo on it but I think by the 73 model year it is a Ford product or at least a Ford Engineering spec'd assembly.

From what I can see it is automotive grade electrical copper stranded wire. Is it heavy? Well someone just mention 40 pounds.

I'm not here to start trouble or tell people what they are doing wrong. They will discover that themselves eventually.

I just can't help but react to this overwhelming conclusion that every newbie SEEMS to come to that the original Detomaso product is no good and tear it out and throw it away. The Pantera just seems to be cursed forever with that?

I can understand where someone is coming from with lightening up the car for racing, etc. But for a street car that just wants to be brought into this century with electronics, Pantera Electronics is a really excellent place to go.

I just wish Jon would join in when it is appropriate on some of these electrical issues in the car.

True these are all everyones personal decisions to make on their car, and that's the way it should be. I personally am just trying to help. Trying to help in keeping the Pantera in a recognizable configuration as to what it was originally built to and curtailing this negative reputation on it as being the most modified car ever manufactured.

Ok. I'll stop now and keep out of this. It is not my place to tell anyone else what or how to do it. This is just my own very bent perspective on things. See ya's.

The biggest advance in modern wiring is actually the insulation which will withstand UV and degradation over time.

Doug, I appreciate your posts and your view on the situation. I'm not saying that the products from Pantera Electronics are not good or people shouldn't use them. I'm just saying that for my particular situation, rewiring the whole car was a better option. For others, replacing just the components is ideal. It comes down to personal preference, that's all.

I have no problem with what you guys are doing. There is truth to everything being stated here.

The age limit to the insulation on the original harness is a very real issue at some point.

In construction we are seeing very real wiring hazards with wiring that is 50 years old. When the stuff gets pulled out, the rubber insulation just crumbles off of the wire. These houses are time bombs ready to go off.

It is wise to replace a harness at some point. You are both all apart, so now is as good as ever.

It is hard to know what UV has done to these things over time as well.

My point I think I made? The harness in the Pantera is not the problem. Particularly the later cars.

The peculiar way the accessories are engineered into the car and the switch loadings is another thing altogether.

The ignition switch for one thing needs relief and the fuse box is another disaster.

I found of particular interest, and I'll bet that I am the only one that noticed it, the self diagnostics built into the Pantera Electronics fuse box. It warns you if the load is abnormal and has a warning buzzer.

Best of luck to both of you in your race car endeavors. What class do you intend to race these cars in? The vintage Trans-Am cars interest me a lot.

I think I'd rather go racing with a '67 Mustang coupe then a Pantera?

I have not consulted with my friend but I think he was refering to tin coated copper wire and tin coated connectors to prevent ...what I see on the Pantera and not my Mustang ... black wire ... I guess the connector can be replaced or soldered on ?

Ron

Interesting.

I don't see it on mine. I'm always working on the electric in it.

I would like to hear what he has to say on it? I'm always willing to learn. It is the first I have heard of it and the harness itself isn't showing increases in resistance.

I have had issues in my 68 Shelby with certain wires in the harness itself but not the Pantera yet.

quote:

Originally posted by PanteraDoug:

Best of luck to both of you in your race car endeavors. What class do you intend to race these cars in? The vintage Trans-Am cars interest me a lot.

I think I'd rather go racing with a '67 Mustang coupe then a Pantera?

My particular car competed in the Silver State for a handful of years, so I'd at least like to continue that tradition in the future, as well as compete in various wheel-to-wheel vintage group racing. It is yet to be seen where the car actually goes, but I'm going to continue with some HPDE events to get my last levels of licensing done and then seek out some competition racing. I was big into autoX years ago so that's another avenue for fun when we're not doing road course work.

quote:

There's no insulation falling off the harness

Panteras don't have rubber covered wires. They have thermoplastic covered wires. Ford stopped using the rubber cover wires in the mid 1950's. I think 1955 was the last year.

Probably the best wire that you can use is aircraft wire. It is silver plated copper wire with a teflon based high temperature insulation called Tefzel.

From DuPont: "DuPont™ Tefzel® is a modified ETFE (ethylene-tetrafluoroethylene) fluoropolymer available as pellets or as powder for rotational molding. Tefzel® combines superior mechanical toughness with an outstanding chemical inertness that approaches that of Teflon® fluoropolymer resins. Tefzel® features easy processibility, a specific gravity of 1.7, and high-energy radiation resistance. Most grades are rated for continuous exposure at 150°C (302°F), based on the 20,000-hr criterion."

John

hey aaron, where can we see more pics of your car?

quote:

Originally posted by tajon:
hey aaron, where can we see more pics of your car?

There's a few pictures from last year here:
http://www.fquick.com/garages/.../Pantera/1973/16882/

I don't have any good recent photos, but nothing has changed except the interior (which is currently gutted for the wiring).

OK PanteraDoug, your wish ...
Wire:
GPT, TWP, HDT, SXL, TXL, GXL wire types are for automotive and marine applications. (SAE J-1128) I prefer the marine since there are more strands per AWG and it's tin plated. These have PVC insulation and have a long life and still good in a Pantera that hasn't been abused.
Most of the wires size is correct for the load with the exception of the fans. Example, if the fans have been up-grade to Spal the current can be as high as 13 to 14 amps, then larger AWG wire is necessary. The Pantera wire size seems to be metric, I measured it but that's difficult to do because of the strands.
Terminals:
The terminals are standard 0.25 quick disconnect tab style, base metal is tempered brass with a 20 microinch plating of tin. Originally they have a shinny or dull silver appearance, but shortly after plating tin oxide forms on the surface. Tin oxide provides a barrier and prevents further corrosion. The tin oxide is displaced by the spring force of the brass when connected to the mating tab. The quick disconnect has preformed reliably for about 50 years.
Pantera Electronics:
I thank all of the Pantera owners that have supported me on this forum, they understand the lengthy technical information that explains the operation and benefits of the products. Not everyone reads that stuff because it's not fun tire smoking Pantera porn, but it is the reason that it works better than anything else and is reliable. The Headlight Motor Controller is easy to install and reduces the operation current operation by half.
The Radiator Fan Controller is solves cooling issues ... those Frankenstein Relays can't even come close to. My customers tell me that something is wrong with their temp gauge needle because it doesn't move after it reaches operation temp.
Many novice relay promoters do not realize that a relays require a suppression device when controlling motors. The capacitor that was used on the ignition points to stop arcing is same reason that relays need suppression for the contacts. The diodes that are used to stop engine run-on reduce fan motor speed by at least 10%, since air flow is an exponential function of the motor speed, air flow is even less.
I don't post here anymore, I don't want sound critical of a particular effort by a Pantera owner to make it his own car. If I see advice that breaks the laws of physics I may help an owner by a private message. Most of my customers aren't on this forum routinely or not at all. Typically they are maintaining or converting back to a stock Pantera and want the non-invasive nature of the products and want the reliability and improvement.

"A Hudson" understands:
http://pantera.infopop.cc/eve/...274/m/2690048635/p/2

I'm not sure what that proved, but as nice as the PE products are, I'll be honest - when I'm 6 inches from the door of another car at 165mph I could care less that my fuse box is designed to bolt into the stock fuse box location. This is a race car, it will be driven to its limits 95% of the time.

AGAIN - I'm sure that the PE products are quality items, that they work and fit well, and that alot of engineering went into them. For someone who wants a stock appearing car with updated electronics, those products are great. FOR MY SITUATION, they didn't serve any real purpose so I just didn't need them. Also, they were considerably more expensive than the route I took. For a few hundred bucks I have a perfectly working Pantera, with 100% new wiring, fuses, modules and relays. It's not stock, but not much on my car is stock at this point so I'm not worried about that.

We can go back and forth about this all day long, but the bottom line is that if PE was not making these products, our cars would not all be sitting on the side of the road, rusting away. They'd still be working, and we'd all be just as happy using products from other vendors. PE products are great stock replacement components made specifically for the Pantera, but it's ridiculous to suggest that those products are the only solution to re-wire an old car.

I think 6 pages of this is enough, I'm sure my position has been well defended. As I said, I'm spending the winter prepping the car for next season. I'll come back to post pictures from the track when the weather gets warmer.

Until then, enjoy whatever products YOU choose for YOUR car. I'll be enjoying mine, rebellious wiring and all. So far I haven't received a message from Jon3613 so I must not be in danger of killing myself yet. Go figure.

I left my harness alone but added an extra fuse block powered from the hot alternator wire. I use this to power the components I have added. dual sucker fans, twin a/c blowers, I pod amp, and my headlamp raising motor. I will add this. I had a 64 Vette that would not start hot. I finally replace the wire going to the starter solinoid. The old wire had gotten stiff. Word has it that as wires age and current is drawn through that they build resistance and loose efficency, where you put power in and get less out.

covered

quote:

Originally posted by PanteraDude:
I'm not sure what that proved, but as nice as the PE products are, I'll be honest - when I'm 6 inches from the door of another car at 165mph I could care less that my fuse box is designed to bolt into the stock fuse box location. This is a race car, it will be driven to its limits 95% of the time.

AGAIN - I'm sure that the PE products are quality items, that they work and fit well, and that alot of engineering went into them. For someone who wants a stock appearing car with updated electronics, those products are great. FOR MY SITUATION, they didn't serve any real purpose so I just didn't need them. Also, they were considerably more expensive than the route I took. For a few hundred bucks I have a perfectly working Pantera, with 100% new wiring, fuses, modules and relays. It's not stock, but not much on my car is stock at this point so I'm not worried about that.

We can go back and forth about this all day long, but the bottom line is that if PE was not making these products, our cars would not all be sitting on the side of the road, rusting away. They'd still be working, and we'd all be just as happy using products from other vendors. PE products are great stock replacement components made specifically for the Pantera, but it's ridiculous to suggest that those products are the only solution to re-wire an old car.

I think 6 pages of this is enough, I'm sure my position has been well defended. As I said, I'm spending the winter prepping the car for next season. I'll come back to post pictures from the track when the weather gets warmer.

Until then, enjoy whatever products YOU choose for YOUR car. I'll be enjoying mine, rebellious wiring and all. So far I haven't received a message from Jon3613 so I must not be in danger of killing myself yet. Go figure.

You're right. It's enough. I should have know better then to get involved at all.

Sorry everyone.

So tell me why doesn't anyone just sell an exact replacement for the Entire Pantera harness with the upgrades ... for an electrically challenged person like myself ... for me it would be easier to install an HVAC System in an 80 room apartment building then try to rewire a Pantera. LOL

I have a guy that is building exact replica harnesses for Shelbys but they are expensive. $2000. He wants to see a Pantera harness to see if he is interested in making one. Anyone want to volunteer to send him one?

Up here it is ....

Oh, yuk! I don't want to pay $2,000 for that? OK. Go with the Painless for $300. Great deal.

It's funny. It looks so innocent laying there?

OK. I'm over this now.

Did you ever notice in the harness that there are wires that are the same color with stripes but there are two different stripes? They are used to designate the polarity of the wires, i. e., which one is on the power in of the fuse box and the other on the power out side of the box?

What kind of vino do you think they were drinking?

Sorry to bring back such an old thread!
However, this is the use of the search function now that I am in the planning phases of my electrical.

Dave B. - Can I ask what the monitor or screen is for shown in your completed interior shot back on the first page?

Is it to control the radio by touch screen, back up camera, IR night camera, etc.

Pantera2077,

Check out David’s website at www.panterapassion.com for a ton of information on his mods and also a bunch of pics from events he has attended.

For a specific link to the David B’s interior mods Click Here. This page it gives you the specifics on the display and also a link at the bottom right corner to see the total modification.

Hope this helps.

Thank you for the direct link to the interior.
I am not sure how I missed that section.

I got what I was looking for.

Whilst on the subject of wiring, I'm trying to sort out some of the wiring mess on my car whilst the new radiator is on the way.

My car appears to have had the radiator fan relays removed at some time, and thanks to the 74 wiring diagram I was able to trace most of the wires in the passenger side front of the car which have been butchered over the years.

BUT........there are two small loom extensions that I can't find in the wiring diagrams.

The main loom comes out of the firewall under the pass side front quarter and then follows the upper chassis line above the shocker to pass through a large grommet into the cavity behind the pass side headlight.

The loom splits off here with the largest section heading over to the drivers side containing wires for the lighting, headlight lifting motor and the radiator fans. A smaller loom heads into the pass side for lighting and another slightly larger loom with 6 wires exits into the radiator area to where the original fan relays would have been located.

There are two other small branches in behind the Pass side headlight area that I can't seem to trace. One has two wires, a brown and a black and the other has three wires, a grey and two blacks.

Can anybody tell me what these two branches (five wires) would be for as they are not connected to anything on my car which is a Dec 73 built L model.

quote:

One has two wires, a brown and a black and the other has three wires, a grey and two blacks.

Robert,

Those two probably went to the radiator temp switches for the original fan relays.

The wiring diagram shows a brown and a black going to the low temp switch, and a gray and two blacks going to the high temp switch.

John

Thanks John,

I sat studying that diagram for hours yesterday and missed those two entirely.

Must be the heat getting to me!!

Thanks very much, now I can clean it all up properly and put the radiator back in.

quote:

Must be the heat getting to me!!

It's just the frustration of not being able to drive the car!!

John

Are any of the Pantera owners down under in the flood areas? I'm under 2 feet of snow but my car is safe in storage! (Thanks Larry W.!) Hope everyone down there is ok.

There are a bunch of guys in Queensland, but at present I haven't had any bad news from them. Brisbane city itself is in imminent danger and that will afect hundreds of thousands. Electrical supply companies have had to terminate services to 150000 homes yesterday as flood waters encroached on sub stations.

Crazy country we live in. 12 years of devastating drought ended in cataclismic flooding. And in the Southern states, swarms of locusts are eating all of our wheat, bran and barley crops. Our food crops are either being eaten or washed away, so looks like we will be reliant upon the generosity of supportive nations to feed us for the next year.