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I pulled into my driveway and my car quit, and would not start after that. I did some testing by myself and will do more when I get an extra person. The car has no spark... If I unplug the coil from the dist and the put a spark plug in the dist position and ground it, an odd thing happens. There is no spark/voltage while the engine is turning over, until I turn the key all the way back then an arc buzzes accross the plug. I was able to get the system to momentarly stop my heart and recalibrate my breathing cadence when I strayed to close to a ground. Trust me, there is plenty of voltage. I will be happy to post photo's if required. This car has run good??.. Just quit??... Thanks for any help...
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PS... I am also not getting voltage to my coil??... There is a hot wire coming off my tach adapter that is keyed hot, should I jump it over to my + side of coil and try it? I just ran new MSD wires to my coil... Will it hurt the 6A box??... some thing happend here and I think I missed it. I think I replaced a perfectly good MSD box. If you do the MSD test under my circumstance the MSD box will fail even though it's good. Should I jump the keyed hot from the tach adapter over to the coil and see if it sparks??...
Well, now that my assistant is here... we checked and jumped everything, I talked to MSD and I am convinced my ONE YEAR old MSD 8350 billet distributor is the problem.... MSD had no bench test for it so... I guess I will send back as suggested by MSD tech. Thanks for jumping in Garth and thanks to all for any help or advice
OK, a few problem here... This car was rewired so we will have to go by position not color, I suffer from limited mental facility, and I am schematically challenged....
From the Right..
First red wire is always hot,
Second red wire is hot during second click of key switch (run).
Third and fifth brownish wires are acc. hot first click of key switch.
Fourth purple wire is hot during engine cranking...
Is this correct??...


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  • MVC-012S
Last edited by plt-1
Acquire a nice long piece of 12 gauge multi-strand wire and attach alligator clips on both ends.

Hook one end of the wire to the power feed to your module & coil. Hook the other end to the battery positive terminal. Try starting the car.

Remember: if the motor starts, you'll have to disconnct the wire from the battery to shut the motor off.

The contacts inside the switch get so dirty & carboned up that the voltage drop through the switch doesn't leave enough voltage to operate the ignition module. It is possible to disassemble the switch and clean the contacts.

I prefer to bypass the switch altogether and supply the ignition through a separate relay.

That switch was designed for low current devices such as the wimpy oem radiator fans, the oem incandescent headlamps and the oem breaker point ignition. All the modern upgrades we make to our Panteras such as high air flow radiator fans, halogen headlamps and high current breakerless ignitions draw too much current for the switch, that's why we have to resort to building separate circuits for these things and supply them via high current rated relays.

FIRST THING... Thank you all for "holding my hand" during this process Smiler...

I was able to get a spark with the direct 12v jump as suggested. Further, There was an audible arc sound from the ingition switch as I turned the switch back to off...

I now suspect the switch as suggested.

Do you guys recomend a quick cleaning of the contacts?
Should I put a modern switch in it?
Since I never, never take the key out of it, I guess a toggle and push button would work, and look cool.
Please lend MORE advice as I search the forum....
Thanks, Paul...

When you bypassed the ignition switch by providing direct power to the red wire of the msd circuit, did you try starting the motor? if it is the ignition switch power that's causing your problem, you should now be able to crank and start the motor. If you still cannot start it, then it could still be your distributor or box. To verify the distributor is good, you can bypass the msd box, since the 8350 is a ready to run. If it runs, then it's the box. If it doesn't then it's the distributor.
OK, just a quick update... I failed to approach this issue in a orderly and thorough way even though I was taught to do so some 35 years ago. As suggested by CFH my issue was indeed the ignition switch. However, the faulty ignition switch did produce/mimic the "dead MSD" indication as described by MSD. I did replace my analog MSD w/a digital unit and moved it's location out of the engine compartment.
Bill Taylor was able to save my original ignition switch and I am grateful for that.
In the mean time I have replaced my original ignition switch with a common drag racing switch panel (rough mock up photo) which was only sixty bucks and it works very well. As I have never taken the key out of this car since I have owned it, I will probably just keep the drag panel as I enjoy hitting all the switches for start up. The key and column locking mechanism still works as a theft deterrent should I decide to turn the key back and pull it out.
I want to thank you guys for helping me w/this issue, the weather is great and I am back on the road again! party


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  • MVC-010S
Last edited by plt-1
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