@garth66 wow thanks! I’d love to try that unit. That would eliminate the hassle for sure and add another cool feature!
It’s likely too late in your “build” but you could delete the heater hoses from the front of the motor altogether. There are heater hose delete kits available for the Coyote. You would then need to have bungs installed in the main coolant tubing under the car; one in the tubing before the radiator and one in the tubing after the radiator. You would then install an electronic heater control valve between the heater core and the tubing after the radiator. For obvious reasons you would mount the valve outside of the passenger compartment. You wouldn’t need the shut-off valves anymore because none of the hoses inside the car are under pressure when the heater valve is closed. I’ve run this exact setup and found the heater worked just fine.
@lf-tp2511 posted:Pretty sure the Cadillac, Ford and the generic versions are not electric. I see no electrical contacts on any of them. I highly suspect the round device on them is a vacuum canister and it is engine vacuum that operates these valves
Larry
Good catch Larry! 
@davidnunn posted:It’s likely too late in your “build” but you could delete the heater hoses from the front of the motor altogether. There are heater hose delete kits available for the Coyote. You would then need to have bungs installed in the main coolant tubing under the car; one in the tubing before the radiator and one in the tubing after the radiator. You would then install an electronic heater control valve between the heater core and the tubing after the radiator. For obvious reasons you would mount the valve outside of the passenger compartment. You wouldn’t need the shut-off valves anymore because none of the hoses inside the car are under pressure when the heater valve is closed. I’ve run this exact setup and found the heater worked just fine.
Wow I like that idea. Not too late bc it’s winter time and I’ll be bored bc this thing is nearly complete. Just put the carpets and interior back together. Seats going in tomorrow, but it’s raining here so will have to wait for first drive until next weekend👍🏼
Anyone have any input on where they would recommend placing a vacuum pump? It’s pretty quiet on the bench. I have some ideas, but would like some wisdom before I start installing it. TIA!
I personally, after 20 years of ownership, uncounted, fun rallies, Monterey, and other events, have never seen a pantera with a vacuum pump.
last I knew I didn’t think your car was roadworthy. So what is motivating you to install a vacuum pump at this time?
Larry
@lf-tp2511 posted:I personally, after 20 years of ownership, uncounted, fun rallies, Monterey, and other events, have never seen a pantera with a vacuum pump.
last I knew I didn’t think your car was roadworthy. So what is motivating you to install a vacuum pump at this time?Larry
Car is road worthy👍🏼. Respectfully, have you seen a Pantera with a Gen 2 Coyote and an EFI Borla 8 stack in the last 20 years up close and personal? If you have and you recall whose it was, they may have some in-site. I have a port in the stack for the vacuum, but it may affect my performance/not be enough vacuum.
Car has been remotely tuned, interior back together, everything is ready to road test, but I’m told the Coyote’s with 8 stacks are notorious for lacking enough vacuum for the breaks… I’d rather be proactive about it.
things left.
1. Vacuum situation(I like power breaks)
2. cut decklid for cylinders 4/8 stacks so I can place airhorns back on
3. Modern wheels and tires
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I ran an electric vacuum pump and it worked fine. I used one that was designed for electric cars, to generate vacuum for a brake booster. I mounted it on a fabricated bracket just behind the driver's side headlamp. With the shield in place it was completely hidden. There's lots of room for one up there and you'll never hear it.
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@davidnunn posted:I ran an electric vacuum pump and it worked fine. I used one that was designed for electric cars, to generate vacuum for a brake booster. I mounted it on a fabricated bracket just behind the driver's side headlamp. With the shield in place it was completely hidden. There's lots of room for one up there and you'll never hear it.
Hey thanks David. Do you remember the brand that you used? Seems like there are a lot of options for these things. I ordered one that had auto slow and maintain function, but it looks a little bit bigger than yours so I may have to return it and get one smaller like yours. I can almost read the brand in the pictures, but want to make sure I get the right one☺️
The reason for using an electric pump to supply vacuum for the brake booster in a fuel injected car is; the convenient source of engine generated vacuum also happens to be where the EFI's MAP sensor gets its signal from. Apparently, in some situations, the vacuum being supplied to the booster can interfere with the MAP sensor's readings. Many OEM's are using such electric vacuum pumps now, even with gasoline engines.
This is the pump I used: https://eveurope.eu/en/product...e2-vacuum-pump-used/ ;however, I couldn't find a current source of new ones. If I recall, it was just under $400. Companies like Hella and Bosch make similar units. Just buy one that's designed specifically for the application. Aftermarket EV parts suppliers all have them, as do Summit and Jeg's. Less expensive pumps simply run the entire time the engine is running whereas better ones have a vacuum switch that turns the pump on and off as needed.
David,
Do you have pictures of the connection at the booster?
The previous mention of the electric, four port heater valve linked to sources for the valve, but without any method to control that valve.
there is a valve sold by old air products that includes the necessary controls. I previously used one of these units and it performed fine for me.
Larry
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@lf-tp2511 posted:The previous mention of the electric, four port heater valve linked to sources for the valve, but without any method to control that valve.
there is a valve sold by old air products that includes the necessary controls. I previously used one of these units and it performed fine for me.
Larry
Awesome thanks Larry
Put 40 miles on Pamela last Friday. The sound is next level cool. Had a few water leaks and lost 2nd gear bc of shifter linkage. Shifting resolved with some adjustments to the linkage and trunnion. Water leaks solved by removing the Hpipe and going to a single manual 4 way valve. I like the idea of the electronic valve, but will likely never need heat. 
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Very cool. Nice that you can enjoy all of your hard work now.
JW
@lf-tp2511 posted:The previous mention of the electric, four port heater valve linked to sources for the valve, but without any method to control that valve.
there is a valve sold by old air products that includes the necessary controls. I previously used one of these units and it performed fine for me.
Larry
FWIW, Thermotion sells a controller for the valve, but it costs another $69, so the Old Air Parts link Larry provided is a much better value.
240 miles on new build. It is next level fun. Got a tune revision and seemed to help a lot too. Added a custom grill to the back: I wanted a little exposure so you can see the emblem on the 8 stack with decklid down. Super happy. Got the grill from https://www.customcargrills.com they have lots of options. I’d like to replace the others around the car now to match(the frames are the hardest part bc they spot welded the mesh in everywhere. 
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could you post some pics of the engine cover off. Did "custom grill" fab a bolt on or did you have to form the sheet mesh?
Love the look and the thought of the other grills matching is awsome.
I would like to do a similar.
Looks Awesome.
@jfb05177 posted:could you post some pics of the engine cover off. Did "custom grill" fab a bolt on or did you have to form the sheet mesh?
Love the look and the thought of the other grills matching is awsome.
I would like to do a similar.
The sheet metal comes already perforated and in multiple sizes that you have to cut. It is aluminum, so it is easy to bend, but it is easy to bend wrong. Very helpful to have a large brake and shear and some other tools. It only took about 2 1/2 hours, but I did make it in an aircraft mechanic shop
Looks great. I assume it runs as good as it looks! What was the outcome of the fiberglass decklid matter? Did PIM take it back?
@davidnunn posted:Looks great. I assume it runs as good as it looks! What was the outcome of the fibreglass decklid matter? Did PIM take it back?
It runs like a stripe-tailed ape! I’m hoping I can throw wider tires on to control the power to the ground. Decklid was not close at all. PIM wouldn’t return emails and then when I did talk to them, Justin claimed my car was probably wrecked and repaired…not… my decklid is flawless with factory spotwelds and landmarks, and you can clearly see the measurements/dimensions are incorrect on the fiberglass decklid with a micrometer. It was not easy to return and they wanted to charge a restocking fee. Buyer beware, these don’t fit like stock like they have stated. PIM has been great in the past. Not sure why they were so poor at communicating this time and adamant their product was perfect. Live and learn… but to leave on an positive(exhaust) note….Enjoy the sound!
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Looks like it runs like a scalded cat!!! Congrats!
Looks and sounds awesome!
@USCDOC13 posted:Decklid was not close at all. PIM wouldn’t return emails and then when I did talk to them, Justin claimed my car was probably wrecked and repaired…not… my decklid is flawless with factory spot welds and landmarks, and you can clearly see the measurements/dimensions are incorrect on the fiberglass decklid with a micrometer. It was not easy to return and they wanted to charge a restocking fee. Buyer beware, these don’t fit like stock like they have stated. PIM has been great in the past. Not sure why they were so poor at communicating this time and adamant their product was perfect. Live and learn…
I've heard this again and again. They sell a defective item then refuse to take it back. Why should you be paying a restocking fee? They misrepresented the product. You were given assurances that it would fit like your stock deck lid. You based your decision to buy it, on this assurance and the fact they'd stand behind it. As per usual, they claim it's the customer's fault. I don't get it. Why do people deal with them? With Hall Pantera, Steve Wilkinson, Dennis Quella or Larry Stock, they'll take anything back if the product is defective, doesn't fit or it isn't up to your expectation in some way.
Great video…. Nice burnouts!
@davidnunn posted:I've heard this again and again. They sell a defective item then refuse to take it back. Why should you be paying a restocking fee? They misrepresented the product. You were given assurances that it would fit like your stock deck lid. You based your decision to buy it, on this assurance and the fact they'd stand behind it. As per usual, they claim it's the customer's fault. I don't get it. Why do people deal with them? With Hall Pantera, Steve Wilkinson, Dennis Quella or Larry Stock, they'll take anything back if the product is defective, doesn't fit or it isn't up to your expectation in some way.
Well, my code of morals and ethics have to be very high in pediatrics. I don't have the luxury of misrepresenting anything... I just expect people to be true to their intention(and word). The major problem wasn't that Jeri said it would fit perfectly (which I won't assume was a lie based on his past experience...maybe it was just a bad batch), it was avoiding all my emails in hopes I'd just give up or fall outside of a window that I'd lose my recourse with my credit card company. I've had this happen before... deceptive business practices... then your faced with 1. a waist of time small claims court, or 2. toss the decklid in the garbage b/c it would cost more than a stock hood to modify it to fit or miss work b/c of court. Biggest loss wasn't the few hundred bucks in shipping and BS, it was my time and the fact that others will see this thread and question their next purchase with them.
I’ve shared this before but here goes again.
when a new owner asks me where they should buy their parts I tell them that if they talk to enough owners, they will hear horror stories about every vendor and if that’s reason to cross them off the list, you will have no one you can purchase anything from.
I then go on to tell them that whoever they deal with, they should confirm that the vendor actually has the part in their hands as they speak, and to ensure that delivery is not dependent on some other source first supplying it to the vendor from which you make the purchase
I tell them after a number of purchases from different vendors they too, will have their list of who they prefer to do business with and who they prefer to avoid doing business with.
but the one “vendor” that most of us never have any troubles with is a fellow owner. Many of us have a ridiculous stash of parts gathering dust. It just takes someone to ask for them to get packaged and sent to their new home
My 2¢
Larry
I had the same issue with the ill fitting deck lid from pim, I elected to fix the hood as I didn’t want to cut my no rib one which buy the way is for sale. Fortunately fiberglass is pretty easy to work with when in the right hands.
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Levi,
Your car looks amazing. I'm glad it turned out well. I hope you drive or trailer it to Monterey this year so that I can see it!
Corey
@coreyprice posted:Levi,
Your car looks amazing. I'm glad it turned out well. I hope you drive or trailer it to Monterey this year so that I can see it!
Corey
Thanks! You’ve been an amazing help to me on the project🙏🏼. Making arrangements to trailer it there😎. Looking forward to a cold beverage with ya! Rims come April 14th!! Forgestar was unfortunately very accurate on the 8 week build time for custom orders.
Nearly done😢. I have a few small things like removing AC line mounts and placing braided lines in the engine bay, maybe air dam and changing mesh of grills… but that’s it. Doesn’t feel real.
Anyone know where I could get steel braided lines for engine bay? TIA
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Looks GOOD! What size wheels, brand, offsets and tires are you running. Needing to buy new ones and your looks good. Any information would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Larry
@Lardog
18x8.5 +19 , 245/35/18
19x11 +14 , 325/30/19
Forgestar
that puts rears dead flush and the fronts tucked in just a smidge(like my 458). Love it! Can’t stop admiring the setup☺️
*****DO NOT DO THIS OFFSET UNLESS YOU HAVE ADJUSTABLE SUSPENSION👍🏼